# Penetrating oils



## JustCliff

A friend of mine posted this on another site. Thought it was useful.

Machinist's Workshop magazine recently published some information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen*
No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.

The study did not specify any specific type of ATF.


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## Cast-Iron

Interesting find! The ATF-Acetone mix appears to work much better than any of those higher priced alternatives. I would like to give this a try the next time the need arises. Like a wise old man once told me, "If you watch the pennies the dollars take care of themselves". Thanks for sharing JC!


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## cowboyhermit

Interesting test, wonder why they didn't try diesel or a diesel mix, that gets used a lot when you want something cheap and in volume.

The other thing to consider is what is in that stuff, especially if you are going to get it all over your skin or apply a torch to it. I still use a lot of WD-40, it is cheap by the gallon and works for many different things, but I rarely bother with the more specific products these days. Maybe I will mix up some of that home-brew and give it a shot.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure and these days I am at the point where almost everything outdoors gets rust protection before assembly. Fluid film is about as non-toxic as it gets, it works really well in most circumstances (not a penetrant). Kopr Kote and the like is amazing.


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## hiwall

I have used Kano Kroil and it works amazingly well. I do not like the smell and try hard not to get any on my hands as I believe it is absorbed through your skin(I might be totally wrong about this but safety first!). I have heard about the ATF mix many times but never remember when I need it so I have never tried it.


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## Jimthewagontraveler

As a former employee in a transmission rebuilding plant I can so vouch for the penetrating ability of atf.
That crap gets every where.


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## Caribou

Here is another home formula.
CONTENTS: "Ed's Red Bore Cleaner"
1 part - Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part - Kerosene - deodorized, K1.
1 part - Aliphatic Mineral Spirits CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent.
1 part - Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
(Optional 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, or OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store.)

http://www.precisionweapons.com/CartGenie/EDs_Red.pdf

This is a great bore cleaner and protectant. It is worthwhile to read the entire article as it contains mixing instructions and precautions.


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## OldCootHillbilly

In maintenance (lotsa boiler work an plumbin) we used lotsa liquid wrench, IMHO it were good stuff. We ran out durin a major rebuild an used sumtin similar ta the ATF an acetone. Worked just as well an was cheaper. Only thin was no spray can what were handy in some tight places. We solved that when we bought a couple refillable spray cans what was charged with air.

Good post.


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## Tirediron

WD-40 is a water displacer, how it got classified as a penetrating oil or handy lube is a mystery to me, it is how ever an excellent honing fluid 

CRC power lube is my choice for commercial spray lube 

Brake fluid is also a decent penetrant, but it is hard on paint and not really cheap either.


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## mojo4

Great post!! I have some old school oil cans that you push in on the bottom to squirt out the oil and had no use for them as now 3 way oil comes with its own squirting tube so now I can use em and have it ready to go!! So if I remember acetone is paint thinner right??


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## hiwall

mojo4, no acetone is not the same as paint thinner.


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## OldCootHillbilly

Yall can buy it in the paint dept. though.


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## hiwall

acetone is nail polish remover.
acetone can be produced by the human body.


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## HamiltonFelix

In the words of Artie Johnson, "Verrrry Interresting..." (If you're not old enough to remember Laugh-In, find it on YouTube.) 

I'll have to try that ATF & acetone mix. I have both items on the place. I've used PB Blaster with pretty good success. Some wrecking yards like it. 

I use WD-40 for lots of things, because it's handy. It was invented as a water displacer (40th formula tried), but it's sort of a compromise "do it all" product. In reality, the best penetrant will not be a good lubricant or preservative. After all, phosphoric acid (the ingredient in Naval Jelly) is the stuff to cut rust, but you wouldn't want to coat things with it. 

OldCootHillbilly reminded me I still have one refillable spray can, and I wish I'd bought more back when Harbor Fright was selling 'em. There is a YouTube video on "Make a Refillable Aerosol Spray Paint Can." The guy installs a Schrader valve for tubeless tire into an aerosol can. But he has to fill it through the valve. 

I'll keep the first post here in mind. Interesting that the products I thought were top of the heap, are not. 

BTW, sometimes it's not just rust or over-tightening. Sometimes there's thread locker involved. Judicious use of heat can be very helpful.


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## JustCliff

I made some of this up and tried it this weekend. It seems to want to separate a little but a shake of the can took care of that for the most part. It did work well for me I think. Sprayed some wingnuts and a 10 hp engine shaft with a centrifugal clutch on it. I went back to the wingnuts the next day and one of them came loose with my fingers and the others took very little effort with pliers. It di some pretty work on the clutch. Put the 3 jaw puller on and it came right off. I'll see what else I can find to use it on.


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## Grape Ape

No need for an aerosol can for the atf/acetone mix. Go get a squirt bottle like what they use for windex and use those. Just make sure when you buy it you get one that can handle petroleum products. 

I put used oil in an empty milk jug to be taken to the parts store for recycle. Came down the next day to a melted milk jug and a gallon of oil on the floor of my garage. A gallon of oil will cover a very large part of a garage floor.


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## JustCliff

I used an old fashion "thumb pump"type oiling can.


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