# Do you buy new cars or used cars?



## Canadian

My current car recently had it's seventh birthday. It has needed repairs lately and I'm aware of the fact that it may be just as expensive to keep fixing it as it would to buy a new one.

I don't have the space or tools to do my own car repairs unless they are very minor. Every time I pay for a repair I look at what it costs me and I think I could have driven a brand new car for a month for the same price.

I've always bought new cars but I'm wondering if I shouldn't take a look at a used car. If the used car is only a year or two old it means that it still has a warranty and it costs less than a new one. I'm just wary of buying someone else's problems. 

How do you buy your cars and trucks?


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## NYsurvivalist6

I'm on my first car still. I've had it since Oct 07 and plan on getting a newer used car this summer. But, I wouldnt buy a brand new car.


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## saintsfanbrian

Well, how frequently are you doing repairs? If you are making repairs every month that would total a car payment then it would be advisable to get a new car. Depending on the maintenance that you perform 7 years really isn't that old for a vehicle. My wife's is going on 10 and we don't plan on getting rid of it even though we have spent about $2000 on it in the last year. That is still less than a new car.

If you are set on getting a new car I would look at program cars first. They usually have the warranty but you will get better deals because they have a few miles on them.

Used cars are a gamble in my opinion. Unless you know the person selling it you don't know what kind of shape it is in.


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## dukman

I only buy OLD cars. I don't need the creature comforts of newer vehicles, and if the repairs are too much, I dump it and get another one.

I had bought a fairly new car back in 2000. A 1998 model with only 27k miles on the clock. I never realized what a newer car cost! 35k checkup cost a couple hundred. 60k checkup cost $700! In 6 years I put $16k into it in payments, $15k in insurance, and $4k in minor maintenance and repairs.

After it died, at only 115k.... I went back to OLD car. Actually van. I bought it for $1,100. I drove it for 2 years, and only put maybe $500 into it mechanically, and insurance was much cheaper, I figure less than $3k over that time. It didn't die.. I just sold it off, for more than I paid, and got a smaller car.

I guess it really comes down to mindset. I think of a car as just transportation for the most part. I know I am not rich, so I would rather put my money into something else that won't depreciate as much


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## doc66

I buy vehicles that are about two years old and keep them forever. I currently own a 2000 Toyota Tundra, which is turning out to be my best truck ever. My last one was a Ford Ranger that I had for 12 years before I finally got rid of it. It was beat up, but mechanically sound. If you shop, you can find sound vehicles that will last, as long as you do your part, regular oil changes that type of stuff. The biggest thing--don't buy American. Sorry, US auto guys, but the 1980-2000 crop of US vehicles suck. (The Ranger is a Mazda) I'd buy a Honda, Toyota or Nissan. 

With my Tundra, I've never looked back at US trucks.


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## northernontario

It's always hard to give advice on this sort of stuff. Having an older car isn't necessarily the best idea if you have no place to work on it, or the skills to do the work. But buying a new car every two years is essentially tossing money out the window. 

My daily driver... is 21 years old. It has it's quirks, and occasionally requires expensive parts... but I am able to do all the work myself. The body has seen better days, but overall is quite strong. 

My wife's car is 14 years old. Again, has it's quirks, and the odd expensive item, but it's much cheaper in the long run. I bought it for her two years ago when we were dating... $850 car + couple hours of body work, patching rust holes with welded panels, paint... total cost of under $1200... to replace her newer truck that used more than twice the fuel. Sold her truck and paid off the loan on it. 

A huge factor in the costs of repairs is labour; if you can do it yourself, you can save a lot of money. Most recently:

My Car:
-clutch was going (turned out to be the hydraulic clutch master cylinder... swapped in a used spare I had)... replaced the original clutch... 230k km's on it... still date-stamped from 1987, almost worn to the rivets. A weekend to pull the transmission, then pull the engine when I realized it was easier to do it that way. Tools required... sockets, wrenches, hoist (could be done on axle stands for most cars), engine hoist (can be rented... or done with a floor jack). Cost for parts - $400. Labour saved - $900+ from an independant shop.
-heater core - $80 part... 7+ hours to remove/install the dash to do it. Specialized tools... small metric sockets, philips head screwdriver, patience. Labour saved - $800+ from the dealership (dealer quotes 9+ hours and two tech's.)

My wife's car is going to need some minor work soon... I've got a whole spare shift linkage sitting in my trunk ready to have new bushings fabricated for it. Couple new brass bushings, reassemble the shifter, then it's just a couple hours labour to put the car up, drop the exhaust and heat shields, and replace the shift linkages. 

My father still has his '98 Outback. One of the few vehicles he's ever bought new. Always treated with Krown rust proofing. Only major work it's needed was a fuel tank... and it will need exhaust work soon. It's been across the country and back without issue. He's had the dealer do the majority of the work on it, and has always been happy with it. 

I generally look for cars I have experience with... European cars (older Audi's and VW's), and Ford stuff. My first couple cars were older VW's, then an older Audi quattro. Picked the Ford Escort wagon for my wife because my father owned one (till my sister rear-ended someone with it), and would buy another. Great fuel economy.


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## Ramkitten

My husband has a 1971 Datsun 510 Wagon. It was the first car he owned in high school (about 1991). Bought it from his friend's dad for $200, but got $100 back because he had to immediately make a repair. He drove that car all over the southwest for about five years--rough, dirt roads and all--then, after he met me and we decided to keep just my newer car and move east, he sold his Datsun for $600. When we moved back to Arizona seven years later (5 years ago), he saw his old, beloved Datsun around town, and, about a year ago, he bought it back ... for $100! He mostly uses it for driving around town, but old reliable goes much further when he wants it to. The plan is to eventually convert it to electric (so we'll be "drivin' around town suckin' up nothin'"--get it, Datsun. D=drivin', A=around, etc. Har-har), but the conversion will cost waaaaaaay more than the car. And as it is it gets good gas mileage at 40mpg, give or take.

What's my point? Um, I don't know. Just tellin' a story.


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## Canadian

Thanks for the feedback. So far this year I've spent about $1,400 on repairs and parts. Some of the small repairs I did myself. Others I didn't have the capability. 

If I got a new car that $1,400 would have been about 4.5 monthly payments on a brand new car with a warranty and better fuel economy. Still if you average the repairs over a year (12 months) it only works out to $116 a month so far this year to keep the old car. 

I'm kind of waiting for something big to break on the car. Then it'll be time for sure. 

I also find that small cars have gotten even smaller since I bought my last car. Every car I look at has a smaller back seat, trunk, front seat etc.


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## doc66

Ramkitten said:


> The plan is to eventually convert it to electric (so we'll be "drivin' around town suckin' up nothin'"--get it, Datsun. D=drivin', A=around, etc. Har-har), but the conversion will cost waaaaaaay more than the car. And as it is it gets good gas mileage at 40mpg, give or take.


You do realize that the vehicle is actually MORE efficient cost wise as is than if you converted it to electric, don't you? The long term cost of the batteries and the replacement cost should they "go bad" is far more than you will spend keeping it in gas an oil on a daily basis, especially if it is an "around town" ride as you say. The real cost of current electric vehicles are hidden from the populace and the technology is just not good enough in today's terms to justify them yet. Besides, the real environmental savings are a farce--the technology that is used to make the batteries and everything else is still using the petrol-based technology of yesteryear.

I have a friend who had to have a Hybrid Toyota and now that he has it, says that it is not really worth the extra long-term cost. Do some more research on the subject. It's not as wonderful as everyone wants to think.

You are better off leaving that Datsun as is--you'll get more bang for your buck with it as a 40 mpg daily driver.


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## northernontario

Canadian said:


> I also find that small cars have gotten even smaller since I bought my last car. Every car I look at has a smaller back seat, trunk, front seat etc.


That's why the fuel economy is going up. Of course, a smaller car is more expensive to insure, because of the risk of injury from a collision with a larger car.

As for spending $1400 on repairs... it's all a question of reliability. Was that $1400 spent on something that will last for years to come? Why did those parts fail in the first place?

What's the value of your car now if you tried to sell, versus a new car that depreciates the moment you buy it.

Often, when buying cars that are 1-2 years old, you're not buying someone's problems... you're buying a car that's been out on a lease. And in today's consumeristic market, everyone wants a new car every two years. However, there is a chance that the car hasn't been properly maintained during the lease.

How do I find/buy my cars? Kijiji is useful; thats where I found my wife's Escort. Various car forums are how I've found my older Audi's. I'm constantly watching Kijiji for deals on an older used Subaru... possibly a parts car for my father, possibly a new car for me or my wife.


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## NaeKid

I have a 38 year old motorbike, 21 year old Jeep, a 20 year old Jeep, a 17 year old GM .. and a 3 year old Jeep. I have no garage, so, when it comes time to fix, I am laying in the dirt fixing whatever needs to be fixed. I just finished installing a new transmission, clutch and transfer case in the 20 year old Jeep. It was "expensive" to do, but, way cheaper than replacing the whole Jeep with something comparable and newer.

You need to figure out where you financial priorities are. I would rather do $1,000 worth of repairs on my old Jeep every 2 or 3 years instead of paying the $5500 / year that I am on my 3 year old "new" Jeep (purchased brand-new). I am planning on keeping my new Jeep for 20+ years if at all possible, so I do the maintenance as often as it needs it, check filters, fluids and moving parts regularly.

If you can do the maintenance, the repairs are limited.


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## Canadian

I've rented a Pontiac G8 for the week. It's nice to drive a new car around. Really fast too and the sound system is pretty good. Still after a day or two it seems a car is really just a car. It's funny how quickly the novelty wears off. 

I think trucks and jeeps tend to be better suited to long term ownership. Cars just don't seems to last as long. They're probably not designed to be as tough as a truck.


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## Ramkitten

doc66 said:


> You do realize that the vehicle is actually MORE efficient cost wise as is than if you converted it to electric, don't you? The long term cost of the batteries and the replacement cost should they "go bad" is far more than you will spend keeping it in gas an oil on a daily basis, especially if it is an "around town" ride as you say. .... You are better off leaving that Datsun as is--you'll get more bang for your buck with it as a 40 mpg daily driver.


Agreed. And I do think my husband is starting to think that way. He still talks about doing the conversion, but I told him that he'll just have to sell more artwork and do some side-projects (metalwork, etc.) to pay for it. Originally, his grandfather was going to fund it, because he'd always wanted to do a project like that, but at 93, he just wants to watch his grandson do the work. But Grampa George kind of bit off more than he could chew financially, so there goes that.

Anyway, I know the orginal question was about buying old versus new cars. I say no way on the new cars. I can't really think of any good reason to buy a hunk of metal for--what do "cheap" new cars go for these days? $20k?--that depreciates the moment you drive it off the lot. We've had great luck with Toyotas. Once had a Camry wagon we bought for $4,000 with 106,000 miles on it. We added 200,000 miles and then traded it in for another used Toyota--a Tacoma pickup--that's going strong after 10 years and 150,000 miles. Never any major repairs.


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## doc66

Cool.... And you gotta love Toyota's!


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## Canadian

Toyota is the most popular car in Canada. People love the quality. I've always bought American cars. I used to sell Chevrolets, Saturns, Saabs, Isuzus, and Oldsmobiles. Lately I'm tempted to try a forign make.


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## Expeditioner

I tend to buy used......I like Honda, Toyota, Nissan, and Ford (trucks). When I do buy new it is for my business.

I still have a 1990 Honda Accord and a 1996 Toyota 4 Runner that I bought new. The Toyota was the last personal vehicle that I purchased new.


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## UncleJoe

I've never driven a new car off the lot and probably never will. The newest vehicle I have ever bought is a 94 Dodge 2500 in 98. Still driving it with 230,000 mi. I also have an 81 GMC 3500 4x4 1 ton dump with 1600,000 on it. Bought that in 98 also. I did replace the tranny in 01. I prefer the older truck because I can fix anything that goes wrong with it from a Chevy truck bone-yard about 10 miles away. The DW drives an 89 Ford Probe that she won't give up till it is totally unrepairable. I had an 89 Mazda 626 that finally gave up at 298,000. I was sooo looking forward to seeing that odometer turn over to 300,000 but it started smoking one day, and just kept getting worse. When I couldn't see the car behind me  I decided it was time to take it off the road.  I gave it to a fellow on craigslist who wanted to rebuild it. Don't know if he ever did.


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## sailaway

Buying new cars or used cars depends on the economy and your economic circumstances. Right now there aren't many used cars available so they are of considerable cost. We just bought my daughter a brand new Honda Civic, it was only $2,000.00 more than a late model used one. The warranty was well worth it. 
Personally I drive 100,000 miles a year with my job, so I prefer a 2-3 year old used one. I would rather some one else took the first hit in value. 
My last car though was a brand new Jeep Patriot (2008), it was less than $15,000.00, to good a deal to pass up and it was time for a vehicle. This vehicle has 4 wheel drive and leather seats, with alot of cargo space in back when the seats are down. It gets around 28 miles to the gallon, but cant pull a trailer. 
I do recomend changing the oil every 3k miles do to how hard a 4 cyl engine has to work. Also my new Jeep came with a life time warranty on the motor and drive line, and President Obama guarenteed it. 
I got an ad from a Jeep dealer in Pittsburgh and beat up my local dealer with it. They wanted to sell a car. My wife got a price for a Honda on line and shopped the local dealers with it. 
Good Hunting, Sailaway


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## nj_m715

I only buy older stuff. I have gotten into old mercedes. I have picked up a few for 1,000-1,500$ in pretty good shape. I burn wvo ( cooking oil ) and the cars pay for themselves in a few months. My daily driver is an '85 300SD. I got 4 yrs ago for 1,100. I have put about that much back into it. I only fill my tank every 6-8 weeks. I used to will up every 7-10 days. I don't keep full coverage on it. In one year it would cost as much as the car is worth. 

If you buy something that "has a following" and some after market parts like MB, Jeep, Ford, Honda etc. you can find all kinds of info for them online. They all have forums where can search for your problem and read the posts for how to fix it. Most will have step by step instructions and pics. 

I also like to pick a common car, so I can find parts at the junk yard. It's easier to find a cheap used part for a Geo Tracker compaired to a CJ-5. I'm not saying you cann't get jeep parts, but people act like the part is made of gold. Most cj's in the junk yard are picked bare. You could probably find a Tracker in the junk yard that you could start and drive home.


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## Canadian

Burning the veggie oil sounds good. I've personally never been a fan of diesel engines but if you're going for a used veggie oil burner that's the way. Those old Mercedes diesels have a good rep for reliability. I've been busy rebuilding the walk in closet. Now that I'm done I'll have time to take the wife out looking at cars.


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## guyfour

I would only buy a used car cause they depreciate thousands of dollars immediately after purchase if you get a new one. My car has 150k on it and the transmission doesn't even leak or have issues... but I traded it for my old van that got 4mpg


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## nj_m715

Canadian said:


> Burning the veggie oil sounds good. I've personally never been a fan of diesel engines but if you're going for a used veggie oil burner that's the way. Those old Mercedes diesels have a good rep for reliability. I've been busy rebuilding the walk in closet. Now that I'm done I'll have time to take the wife out looking at cars.


I can point you to a couple good sites if you are interested.


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## Canadian

Oddly there isn't a lot of used veggie oil in Toronto. An oil recycling company called Rothsay has a monopoly on used oil collection.


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## nj_m715

Some areas have the same problem here. There are little mom and pop places that will work with you. Knowing an employee can help and offering let them keep their current service while just taking some of the oil can get you in the door. Be polite, be on time, don't leave a mess, sit down for lunch once in awhile and you should have all the oil in no time. Hell, there are still places that throw it in the dumpster or down the drain. If they are getting paid, match the price. It's usually only pennies. I love a hobby that makes me money. It can run your back up gen set and heat your house too!


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## katherine

*Advantages and Disadvantages on buying used car*

* The buyers have no idea how the car was treated. Used cars usually have worn consumables such as hoses, tires, shocks, filters, fans and clutch.

* Although used car dealers provide a warranty, it is only limited to a couple of months unlike purchasing a new car with full warranty. Certain maintenance on your purchased used car could be more expensive.

* Purchasing a second-hand vehicle would offer you a lower trade-in value.

* The main disadvantage of purchasing used cars is that it has an unknown quantity. Whether the dealer has worked the vehicle to make it attractive for the test drive, the buyers are still unaware of the repair bills, economical issues, and its reliable transportation.

* It is difficult to negotiate fair financing terms on an older vehicle.

Advantages - On the other side, buying a used car could benefit the buyer in several ways:

* The original owner of the car received the depreciation hit. The market value of the new car decreases from year to year. An average 30% of its value within three years from the time it was bought, so buying their car would save you a lot of money.

* Unlike purchasing a new vehicle with high insurance fees, you will receive a lower cost of insurance if you choose to buy second hand cars.

* Although buying new cars and used cars both provide loans, lease, or money-saving the majority of dealers who sell second hand cars often have shorter loan terms.

* If your investment is decided based on appearance and gas mileage, choosing a second hand car would guarantee the value and reliability it has provided over the years.

* A used car would provide your dollar more flexibility. Compared from buying a new car that would eat all your finances, buying a second hand car would allow you to purchase other accessories such as air conditioning that would cost approximately US$200 to $900 extra.

Buying your used car could waste your money if you fail to do your research, compare dealerships, and be aware of the car's market value. Be a wise used-car buyer.

________________
St Louis Used Cars


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## Nadine

I always buy used cars. You can find a really good car that has been previously owned if you put some work into it. Some people take real car of their cars and they last for years. I've had luck buying from older people as they seem to not be so rough on the cars, probably because they don't go out much anymore. Most of their cars spend their time in the garage covered up. You can't just go and find one on Ebay....because you may end up with a P.O.S.

Ask lots of questions to the previous owner, find out the history on the car, drive it around a little and get a feel for the car making sure it drives right and also listening for any weird noises. 

With your time put into something like this you won't be sorry.
I learned my mistake pretty quickly with a Mazda 626 whose engine blew up on my about 3 weeks after the car. The previous owners never mentioned any problems....


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## Canadian

I went and looked at a little Hyundai today at the dealership. Their so called $9,000 car costa a bit more once you put the hidden fees on but it's pretty inexpensive and 0% financing sure beats paying interest to the bank.

Still have to check a few more cars out.


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## The_Blob

I goto confiscated vehicle auctions buy 3 cars, fix them up, sell 2, and have more money than when I started...


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## Canadian

I've been to the Toronto police auctions and I must say our drug dealers don't make very much - at least the ones that get caught. 

You ever find anything cool in a confiscated vehicle?


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## The_Blob

Canadian said:


> You ever find anything cool in a confiscated vehicle?


'cool' isn't the word that I would use... & being a Yank, I will respond with 'I take the 5th'


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## GatorDude

Generally, we try to buy cars that are 1 or 2 miles old and have less than 25K miles on them. We've found that we get a reliable vehicle with about 3 years of trouble free service before we need to spend money on any major repairs.

We typically buy our cars at CarMax as detailed in my review here:
The CarMax Car Buying Experience - No Fuss, No Muss, No Negotiating, Few Hassles - Associated Content

We have generally found our experiences at CarMax much, much, less stressful than buying from a conventional dealer. We've bought a Ford Explorer, Toyota Camry, Toyota Highlander and Chevy Cavalier in this manner. The Camry was the best car of the lot and it gave it's life for us in a collision. The Explorer was great, but it was a fuel hog and when it did need repairs it was costly. The Highlander has a lot of passenger room, but is not nearly as rugged as the Explorer was. The Cavalier is a piece of crap that rattled after week one and recently left my wife stranded in the boondocks. As soon as I get a new job, it is gone.

Since we usually live in cities with significant and dangerous hoodlum populations and insane super highways, we will not keep an unreliable car. The potential consequences of a breakdown are too grave to have a beater and we just don't have the DIY skills, tools, and garage needed to do much more than change an air filter or wiper blades.


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## Canadian

I just switched my little Chevy to synthetic last time I changed the oil. At the end of the year it will have reached it's 8th birthday. When I threatened to trade it in it suddenly started behaving itself. I'd be stoked if it made it to ten years old. 

Saw the new Camaro at the Chevy dealer. Mmm...


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## Jason

I have a 2003 Dodge Dakota that I bought brand new. It's a 4x4v6 with a club cab (the cab and a half, not the full backseat). I love the thing but I wish I'd have bought a fullsize. I haul firewood and use it like a farm truck and it's really too small in that respect. The back seat is just big enough for my boy's car seat. It's been reliable-the worst trouble I've had to date was a broken ball joint and right now the wiper motor is a little sketchy. I plan on running it till the wheels fall off.

I really don't think I'll ever drive a new pickup off the lot again. I'd rather buy a decent used truck. I definately need a truck-it's part of my home heating equipment. 

We have a 2005 Liberty that the wife bought new (we met in '06). We will also keep it for a long time. For the safety of my wife and son I'll be more inclined to buy new than I will be for my work vehicle.

In short, it depends on who will be in your ride, where you will be driving, weather, and how much money you have to plunk down.


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## Canadian

I've noticed that in Canada a stripped to the bone small pickup costs exactly the same as a stripped full size pickup after you take all the rebates off. 

Seems odd that the big trucks are going for so cheap. What gives? The price of gas isn't that horrible.


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## Jason

Perception is reality, as we say at work. People think big trucks get horrible mileage so nobody is interested in them. My Dakota gets 14 MPG. Always has. That's no worse than a fullsize would get.


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## BillS

I look for older low mileage cars on Craigslist. I work at home so I can refresh the screen every 15 minutes all day long. The last car we got was a '95 Buick Century with 58,000 miles for $2,000. Before that I got a 2000 Buick Century with 19,000 miles for $5,000. Before that a '92 Olds Cutlass Cierra with 55,000 miles for $2,000.

For me, low miles is the most important thing about the car. Low miles mean that you shouldn't have any repair bills for a long time. If the miles are low it should run perfectly when you test drive it. If it doesn't run perfectly I don't buy it. I look for mostly Buicks and Oldsmobiles because those are good quality cars that are usually owned by older people who don't drive much.

I also keep cash in my house on the weekends when I'm looking for a car. So if I see one advertised on Saturday at 3:00 p.m. I can still show up there with cash.

I keep multiple Craigslist pages open at one time: Appleton, Green Bay, Madison, and Milwaukee. It's worth it to drive 150 miles to look at a car if it's a good deal.

I also have bought used cars that I found at cars.com. I prefer to look for older low mileage cars at new car dealerships in big cities. It's even better if the brand of used car isn't one they sell new. So if I see a '99 Buick at a Toyota dealership I'm pretty sure it's going to be a good car. I live at least 150 miles from Chicago but got a good deal on a used car at one of the new car dealerships in one of the suburbs. I think that a $5000 car in my area would cost $4000 in Milwaukee and possibly $3500 in Chicago. Plus it's a lot easier to find a low mileage car in a big city than a small town. (I bought the 2000 Buick in Racine. That was about 120 miles away)


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## VUnder

Buy used. I have bought so many trucks for 1500.00 and drove them for a few years for nothing, took care of them, and sold them afterward for 1500.00. One I sold on ebay for 5500.00, and did nothing to it after driving it for two years and not putting a wrench on it. I like the old High Boys myself and have several around here. I keep a couple licensed and use them when I really need to do something. I have a 2001 civic that has been wrecked, and given to me. It is all fine now. I spent maybe 500. on it, and it has 125 k, so is in wonderful shape for me. I can't see why people worry about having used vehicles in the age of cell phones. Save your money up to have "wrecker money" for just in case situations. Plus, you save a lot of money by being able to keep just libality insurance instead of full coverage. I have four vehicles licensed and it is 25.00 a month for each vehicle, less than a dollar a day. So, that is one part of my life where I feel I am getting ahead.


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## texas_red

The last 4 vehicles I've purchased were all used, 1 or two years old. But recently, used car prices seem to be darn near the same as new. I made my latest purchase last year, so I'm good to go for awhile now. But those needing a replacement vehicle now are not going to find much in the way of bargains.


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## Tribal Warlord Thug

always have bought used.....like they say 'you git what ya pay for'.....so far have had very good luck in buying stuff thats already 'broke in' . just sold my suburban for book and bought me a lil 1987 ford ranger 4x4...fun little truck, and economical.


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## VUnder

rabidcoyote666 said:


> always have bought used.....like they say 'you git what ya pay for'.....so far have had very good luck in buying stuff thats already 'broke in' . just sold my suburban for book and bought me a lil 1987 ford ranger 4x4...fun little truck, and economical.


On those little trucks, make sure you grease the slip joint in the long axle on the passenger side of the TTB. Those tend to get neglected and go out, and taking the differential apart to replace the stub axle that comes from the housing is not fun. Also, take your hubs off and make sure the "flat Bearing" is ok and in good shape, and grease it good. Those tend to go out and bunch up and cause you to replace some other things, which can all be prevented. The hub comes as a unit, comes from Ford, and not fun to pay for. Just some things I have come across in my mechanicin'.


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## Tribal Warlord Thug

yep...big pain in the ass....been there done that when i worked in a salvage yard.....even harder to do when the trucks a twisted wreck!.....lol most of the seals and bearings have been replaced in the front and rear units, as well as all new shocks, brakes, rotors, bushings............got it from a mechanic.:beercheer:

also will be replacing the throttle body and injectors with new ones from a 5.0 HO...plus a set of shorty headers and a mild lift.:crossfinger:


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## HozayBuck

*My last vehicles*

*A 92 Dodge Dynasty.. bought it in 95 with 40 K on it... gave it away at 250 K in 08.. bought a 91 Chry New Yorker with 101 K on it in cherry cond.. in 06.. gave it to my Son in 08....bought my Dodge 1 ton diesel new in 08... needed it to pull my heavy Arctic Fox TT... when I go north it's 1800 miles.. same back... has 70 K on it... still need it as long as I keep the TT... my 71 Chevy 4x4 I got in 74 with 27 K miles... it went away in 93 with a quarter Mill...I still miss that truck!..

In my dodge I can barely find the dip stick... in the old chevy under the hood was a Battery, engine and a radiator ... I could even do some of the work on it..

Baring an EMP I will drive the Dodge till I'm dead or it is... I take care of it and it gets me there at 17 MPG... when the warranty is up I'll replace the crappy EPA Bullchit exhaust and chip it.. maybe a slight lift and taller tires *


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## piglett

well i'm really cheep so i only buy old used toyota's
last year i paid $1200 for a 94 corolla 
i put $500 into it in parts & also put 40k on it so far in 1 year 
& it runs like a top. i always plan on putting $600 a year into a vehicle
why $600? well because that's 2 payments on a cheep new car
this way i pay nothing for the other 10 months :2thumb:
i should add that i do all my own work & have for years
i poured a 20'x32'slab out back a couple of years ago
it gives me a good surface to work on so i'm not laying in mud.
at some point i'll build a pole building over it & then have a poor man's garage


piglett


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## Frugal_Farmers

Have a 1999 Jeep Wrangler (106K miles)--bought and paid for

and a 2004 Nissan Pathfinder (68K miles) bought and paid for

Will never buy a new vehicle again. This fits right onto our simple, frugal lifestyle.


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## piglett

Frugal_Farmers said:


> Have a 1999 Jeep Wrangler (106K miles)--bought and paid for
> 
> and a 2004 Nissan Pathfinder (68K miles) bought and paid for
> 
> Will never buy a new vehicle again. This fits right onto our simple, frugal lifestyle.


a good vehicle can last you 15 or 20 years as long as you keep it up


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## UncleJoe

piglett said:


> a good vehicle can last you 15 or 20 years as long as you keep it up


My oldest is 30 years, a 1981 GMC, 4x4, dual wheel, 1 ton dump, automatic tranny, with an 7.5' plow. Replaced the transmission in '99 for $2500. If I had to replace the truck with a new one with the same capabilities and features, I'd be looking at $60,000, minimum. 
Like Hozay said, open the hood and you'll see an engine (standard Chevy 350) and a radiator. It's simple to work on and I can do most of it myself.


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## Turtle

The last brand-new vehicle I bought was when I traded in my '03 Wrangler for one of the new four-door Wranglers. We waited until '08, thinking that all of the first year gremlins would be worked out by then... nope. That thing had so many electrical problems and fitment and build-quality issues, I traded in in after a year and got an '06 LJ Wrangler Unlimited. I plan to keep this one for quite some time. I am really looking forward to it being paid off; if i had just kept the '03, it would have been paid off last year.

To me, it just isn't worth it to buy a brand new vehicle, unless your needs are very specific and you just cannot find what you need. Not only are the older vehicle cheaper to buy, but the older and less complicated they are, the easier they are to work on. In example, between 2006 (last year of the TJ/LJ) and 2007 (first year of the JK), the Wrangler went from having _one computer_ which only controls the fuel and timing, to having _seven computers_ whcih control everything, down to monitoring the air pressure in the tires. No thanks!


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## pelenaka

Our current car which I bought new (paid in full) is a 2004 Aveo hatchback, standard, no a/c which I have come to regret. @ the time I primarily worked night shift so driving home in the morning wasn't a big issue for me since really August is our only hot month. I tried to buy the car without a radio hoping to get a better deal but radios are standard on all cars now. 
After all was said and done I walked out the door for 7k.

I just really needed a car for commuting often over 100 miles to work that gets great gas mileage. After 7 years we are still averaging 30 down from the almost 40 when it was new. 112,000 + miles still running strong with regular maintenance but we do baby it.
Not so quick to leave the county like I once did, let alone the state.
Added a hitch so we can pull a tiny utility trailer works for us hauling firewood and what not. 


Periodically we do some serious research on vehicles but nothing other than that Subaru (part wagon part truck bed) catches my eye. I like the concept.
Hubby really is into vintage cars so he lusts after a Willy.


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## Frugal_Farmers

piglett said:


> a good vehicle can last you 15 or 20 years as long as you keep it up


Planning on at least 20 years.


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## HamiltonFelix

Our newest is the 2007 Corolla that I bought with 46,000 miles in May of 2008. Dealer marked it down because it's a 5-speed. All I've done is buy tires, oil, oil filters, wiper blades and gas; it's closing in on 160,000 miles. 

I did buy the 2007 Suzuki DL650 new, but my next bike will most likely be used. 

Along with the Corolla, the 2000 Crown Vic ex-cop car is the most frequent other "driver" (we commute one way 48.8 miles for her, 48.15 for me). 

Her 1999 Grand Cherokee with Quadra Drive option will see more use in winter. It's the recent recipient of a cash infusion that far exceeds its market value - 5 inch lifted suspension, 255/85R16 rubber, etc. 

My 1986 F250 sees only occasional use; one doesn't fire up a carbureted 460 without good reason. 

The ex-Navy 1966 International 1300 series 4x4 sits in Dad's woods, quietly rusting away, and I see it a couple of times a year. But it has a killer winch and is still great for yarding logs. 

The ex-Atomic Energy Commission 1956 International S-120 4x4 has been sitting for a few years with a broken axle, but I'm looking forward to fixing it. Its body/cab is MUCH better than that of the 1966 IH. 

The 1996 K2500 Suburban finally developed transfer case problems at 261,000 miles. The 454 engine has never had the heads off, and doesn't use a quart between oil changes. I hope to get it back on the road when time permits; it's a great trailer puller. 

Nope, I have no plans to buy any new vehicles. In fact, I have the vehicles I need. One of these days, we'll get another motorcycle, for my wife. I'll just concentrate on modifications that improve utility and versatility of what we have. All of our vehicles (except the bike with just a bit over 30K) have six figure odometer readings, but they last if you take care of them.

Suppose I really should dust off the 1976 Honda Trail 90 that's in a shed. There's a post-TSHTF vehicle for sure. 

New vehicles are expensive. If it just came out, it's not proven. If it's a proven design, and has at least a year or two of use on it, then it's probably a much better deal than a new car.


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## mamacita

My DH bought a new Mustang when he got his first job out of college twenty years ago. That's the only new car either of us has ever owned. We've currently got a 68 Bronco, 89 Suburban, 91 Suburban, and 97 Expedition. You just need to do some research about what years were "good years" for various vehicles. I saw something in consumer reports about this. Learn what to look for, then have a mechanic look it over before you buy.

Keep in mind that although modern cars have improved safety features and various bells and whistles, not much is made these days the way it used to be. Older vehicles are often very tough, and built to last rather than built for designed obsolescence.


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## worldengineer

mamacita said:


> Keep in mind that although modern cars have improved safety features and various bells and whistles, not much is made these days the way it used to be. Older vehicles are often very tough, and built to last rather than built for designed obsolescence.


Most definitely. New cars can easily be totaled in a 15 mph crash. Whereas older cars can take that damage plus more before they are totaled. It's due to our throw away society. We can make the car insure it destroy it and get another one easily.


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## BillS

Newer cars are designed to absorb the energy from a collision. That means people won't get as hurt as they used to assuming you compare cars of the same size.


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## UncleJoe

worldengineer said:


> older cars can take that damage plus more before they are totaled.


And bumpers are a prime example of that. Bumpers are now covered in some type of rubber/plastic. Hit something with that and you're looking at thousands in repairs. Hit something with an 80's or earlier bumper and IF it's damaged you can replace it from a scrapyard for $50- $150. A couple years ago I replaced the rear bumper on my '94 Dodge for $70.


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## lefty

I drive cars until they die, I put over 400K on an explorer I had and sold it before moving back to Fla. If I can find a used car a year old low miles or a lot demo then I go with that, let smebody else eat the depreciation. We currently have 2 SUV's one has 250K and the other has 65K . I also believe in the spare car concept just in case.


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## Woody

I’ve had both new vehicles and used vehicles, mostly HD 4x4 work trucks. No matter what brand, year or size you can get a good one or you can get a bad one. Just the way it has worked for me.

Most of my vehicles were bought new. I don’t care or worry about depreciation or how much value the vehicle holds. I keep them till they die so there is no resale, only scrap value in the end. What I look at is how much it is going to cost me. From the initial purchase to when the first major repairs are needed (that I have to pay for) is what it cost me for a vehicle. When it gets to the point of diminishing returns, it is costing me more in repairs than car payments or when the vehicle is unreliable, it is time to cash it in. A reliable vehicle is top on the list. If I have to start worrying that I might not make it to point A and back again it is time to look for another ride. I will put a new engine in or some other costly service if the rest of the vehicle is in good enough shape to warrant that repair.

Currently I have a 2008 Toyota Yaris, base model, manual everything. Unfortunately my old vehicle died in October of 2008 right when gas was $4.00 so I didn’t have much wiggle room in price negotiations. Even used little vehicles were going for almost as much as new and there were folks lined up waiting to buy. My 1994 Cherokee is my backup vehicle but it was hard to afford to feed it! I bought the Yaris sight unseen (didn’t even know what color it was, didn’t care really) while it was on a boat from Japan. I did some research on the net before deciding on the Yaris, or Vitz in all other countries. Been happy as a clam with it so far and look forward to having it for years to come.

A vehicle to me is just a tool, not an expression of who I am or how rich/poor I am. It can be butt ugly as long as it does the job I need it to do! The Yaris fits the bill perfectly, it is a commuter car, back and forth to work every day while getting around 50 mpg. When I worked for a living the trucks fit the bill. They could haul their own weight (literally) and get materials to wherever they needed to be, at the cost of 9 mpg.


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## worldengineer

My truck has over 220k miles on it. Don't plan on getting anything else till I get out of college.

14mpgs is a tough part, and it seems I have hit that bump in the road that starts to make time to replace equipment more common. Water pump, transmission parts, and power steering all within 5 months.


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## BillT

I'm late to join the conversation and I didn't read many of the previous replies, but I always buy used vehicles. I like running the older models (still do with trucks) but the cars started rising up in cost and they got out of my range. I ended up having to move up a couple of decades. I have done real well with the old ones, all around, including finacially. I probably won't do as well with the newel models, but so far, not too bad. 

Bill


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