# Crop Rotation



## PreparedRifleman73 (Nov 2, 2012)

I am wondering what all you more experienced gardeners think about crop rotation. What kind of crop rotation plan do you use? I've read about a few of them, but many seem unrealistic. I'm using the square foot method in rasied beds in Minnesota, if that matters.


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## haley4217 (Dec 16, 2012)

hawkmiles said:


> I am wondering what all you more experienced gardeners think about crop rotation. What kind of crop rotation plan do you use? I've read about a few of them, but many seem unrealistic. I'm using the square foot method in rasied beds in Minnesota, if that matters.


I've been using crop rotation now for the last four years (since I started my garden) but first thing is I have a fairly large area of land for the garden to grow in. This allows me to rotate and fallow areas of the garden each year. Probably not practical if you're considering square foot method which implies to me a smaller area.

There are a few of the items in rotation that I believe are important, potatoes to avoid soil born diseases which can build up over time. High feeders like corn and okra to give the soil time to regenerate. Tomatoes are suggested again because of disease but I've been reading a lot about tomatoes being grown in warmer climates as perennials instead of annuals where rotation isn't necessary for at least two years.

I know a lot of people who don't rotate their gardens and don't have substantial problems. I do suggest that you research soil and make sure that you keep a healthy soil, hopefully without chemicals, so that your plants have the strength and health to fight off anything that may build up by growing in the same area each year.


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## cowboyhermit (Nov 10, 2012)

Ideally you want to rotate from one family to another most of the time. Many times you can get away without but the cost of rotating is low and potential problems from not can be high:dunno:


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## ContinualHarvest (Feb 19, 2012)

Keep the diseases and pests confused. Rotate your crops. Last year where i grew tomatoes, I'm growing beans. 
Last year where I grew beans, I've got peppers and tomatoes. Where I grew corn last year, we have a different variety of beans and squash. 
May not be going by exact families, but it works. I try to place some nitrogen fixing plants near plants that use nitrogen heavily. 
Also, I've been going to a lot of self seeding annual foods, local "wild edibles" and perennials.


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## Jerry D Young (Jan 28, 2009)

When I was young we had a huge garden. 1/4 of the garden plot was always fallow, with the other 3/4s having rotated crops on them. The fallow ground was planted wit a nitrogen fixing cover crop. I think it was clover, because we also had 2 milk cows and two calves most of that time, too. But I'm not sure.

Just my opinion.


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## bacpacker (Jul 15, 2011)

My rotation pattern pretty much follows JDY's suggestion. I keep a good part empty and planted in a green manure crop. for this I use Buckwheat a couple times thru the summer, then annual rye in the fall and turn it in early spring. I am considering going to clover in the fall. 
I also, try to never plant a crop in the same area more than once every three years. I have enough problems having clay soil and bugs. i don't want to tempt fate. 
I do highly suggest using a part of your ground as fallow and plant a good cover crop on it every year.


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## on_the_rox (Jul 17, 2011)

I have seven 4x12 raised beds that are loosely planted in the square foot garden plan. I try to not plant the same thing in the same bed for at least the next two years. I believe it has helped.


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## cnsper (Sep 20, 2012)

Our garden rotation growing up was really simple...

1. The berries never moved.
2. What ever was grown in that spot last year was moved to a new location.
3. All the leftovers such as vines and leaves were tilled into the garden after harvest along with a healthy dose of compost.

We grew grand champion sized veggies in the garden and the only rule was to never plant the same thing in the same place 2 years in a row.


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