# Extended travel fuel tanks



## NaeKid

What is your recommendation? In-bed tanks or frame-mounted tanks (second-tank, third-tank, etc)?

I heard (but cannot confirm) that on Chevy trucks that you can take the rear-mounted Suburban tank and mount it as a second-tank in a pick-up.

I also found that a company named Titan Fuel Tanks makes massive frame-mounted tanks for trucks (Chevy / GMC, Dodge, Ford) that can essentially double your travel between fill-ups. The downside to the Titan-tank is its price-tag which is about $1500 Canadian dollars :eyebulge:

That brings us to the in-bed slip tanks. Would it be worth it to loose the front-portion of the bed in order to carry extra fuel, or, would it be a good idea to have a "flat" fuel-tank and raise the floor to the top of the wheel-wells instead?

Why I am asking is that I am looking at all options for extra fuel in my '04 Chevy 3/4ton truck - that is - all except for easily removed / stolen jerry-cans.


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## cowboyhermit

I think if you can add an auxiliary tank without too much trouble that is great, love my vehicles that have two tanks, no pumping or hassle The problem with slip tanks is the rules are different all over the place so if you travel you may have a hard time, and there are more and more restrictions all the time, especially for gasoline. Definitely look up the regulations because I am pretty sure in Alberta a slip tank for gas is supposed to be double walled or some ridiculousness


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## cowboyhermit

Oh, with regards to the jerry cans, as far as I know there is still no restriction on carrying a bunch of them in a tool box that locks, meanwhile a chained down steel tank is illegal


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## Tirediron

a suburban tank should be able to be mounted in the rear of the frame, but you would have to relocate the spare tire. and you would have to put a switchable valve in the return line to keep it from transfering fuel to the stock tank. the upside is a spare fuel pump. A talented guy like you could fab up a rear of the frame tank with even more capacity too. a box mounted tank should be ok if the capacity is under 400L and well mounted, any larger than the majic number and you have to jump through the same hoops as a tandem axle fuel truck. if your truck is a short bed you would want to carefully measure for suburban tank space.


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## Fn/Form

Have you looked at fuel bladders? The cheapest I found was around US$275. The offshore fishing (guide, not commercial) designs with tie-downs looked nice. But there are many other options in the industrial arena.


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## NaeKid

Mine is a 2500 CrewCab ShortBox 4x4 with a basic levelling kit in it and stock-height tires (like the picture below) - no canopy right now (hunting for one), sprayed in bedliner ...

TI - would you recommend having two fill-ports on the outside of the truck and do body-work on the tail of the truck or would you suggest having the fill on the inside of the box so that I have to drop the tail-gate to fill the rear tank?

As far as the spare-tire goes, I am planning on building a new bumper for the rear of the truck with a swing-out carrier on it (similar to the one shown on the van picture) using Zach's hinge-pin: http://www.atozfabrication.com/store/product.php?productid=16138&cat=274&page=1 .... it will probably be a mid-summer's project after I have my spring-projects completed.


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## Magus

Have them as 5 gallon tiers and removable.


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## Tirediron

*fuel fill(s)*

Back in the day, when square body GM trucks had 2 tanks there was a kit to fill both tanks from one side using the same fuel door with 2 "necks" inside. There shouldn't be any reason that you couldn't do something similar. yukons and tahoes have the tank in front of the rear axle and the filler behind on the rear quarter


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## swjohnsey

I have a standard cab '07 GMC C2500. It has a 34 gallon tank. This already gives me a range of over 600 miles. You would only need extra range in an emergency. Doesn't make alot of sense to carry hundres of pounds of extra fuel around all the time. The simplest solution, jerry cans, makes more sense to me.


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## d_saum

swjohnsey said:


> I have a standard cab '07 GMC C2500. It has a 34 gallon tank. This already gives me a range of over 600 miles. You would only need extra range in an emergency. Doesn't make alot of sense to carry hundres of pounds of extra fuel around all the time. The simplest solution, jerry cans, makes more sense to me.


I understand your point, but I have a few points just to play devils advocate.. 

1. If you carry that extra fuel.. then you are ready at all times. I'd hate to get stuck if the SHTF and there's HUGE lines at the gas station while you are saying "Dang.. I should've kept that other tank full!!!".

2. Jerry cans can be stolen...

3. If you really did not want to carry that extra fuel, then just leave one tank empty and that solves your hundreds of pounds of fuel issue.


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## platoon62

Go to a semi-truck salvage yard and buy a 110 gall tank off a wrecked truck for $100. Or a 50 gall off a wrecked reefer trailer. You can devise a way to mount it in the bed of your vehicle.


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## bunkerbob

I have a 80 gallon "L" shaped diesel tank with an electric pump and nozzle in the bed of my Dodge.
We use it and add to it all year long, adding Lucas and PRI-D to help preserve it. When we go on vacation a full tank and the truck fuel is enough to take us up to the High Sierras, about 400 miles one way, and back. We stop at rest areas to refill.
I don't leave the power cord attached, keeping others from "borrowing" the fuel when we aren't around.


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## luckey37

+1 ^^^^^. I've got the same set up. Only lose about 10" since I've got an in bed tool box. I use it to bulk purchase when fuel makes those sudden unexpected drops. It's paid for itself and then some over the last 5 years. It usually only has about 20 gallons that I always keep for shtf!


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## HamiltonFelix

A number of pickups over the years have been offered with dual tanks. Some time back, GM went with a single 42 gallon tank on the Suburban; that's what is on my 1996 K2500 that sits out back with dead transfer case. My 1986 F250 has dual tanks, 19 gallon I believe. I ran across a very reasonably priced replacement for the rear tank that held 38 gallons, but required you to give up the underbed spare tire storage. I hate fighting with underbed spares anyway, so it seems to me like a good idea. 

If you can fit an extra tank or larger tank without changing the appearance of the vehicle, I think you're ahead of the game. Confusing legalities aside, I think extra gas cans and in-bed tanks tend to get noticed. Oh, I have plenty of gas cans myself - just saying...


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## cowboyhermit

I agree about the spare tire, I have had to help people on the highway with relatively new vehicles because they couldn't get the spare tire out with tools provided. Stupid place for a spare imo.


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## HamiltonFelix

Yep. I got this 1986 F250 in 2005. It sat a lot. I'm glad I never had a flat. I took the spare out the other night, because I was doing some measuring and planning tire/wheel changes. I ended up using cutting tools. I think it may be the original spare. It's a tubless Firestone Steeltex in 7.50R16, not 235/85R16. 

I think I'll carry the spare in-bed most of the time. I'm planning a front receiver, so I can use a winch at either end (not to mention the occasional spot hitch), so I may build a front carrier for times when I need the entire bed. 

I wouldn't mind a slide-in tank, but I'd want it to be not terribly obvious and easily removable when I needed the space instead of the tank.


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## Justaguy987

I once saw a guy at the bulk fuel station filling up his tool box. I talked to him and it turns out he built a custom box/tank combo. With the lid closed, it looked just like a Deep tool box that went all the way to the bed. Open the lid and there was the filler neck and transfer pump. About 1/3 of the total space was still used as a tool box. Great setup in my mind.


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## HamiltonFelix

I like it!  A man after my own heart.


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## TheGatherer

I have a 2012 Ford Super Duty CCSB 6.7 diesel and put a 70 gal tank from RDS who sells at Northern Tool. Since I live not too far from the manufac. plant I picked up the tank myself, and the install was really easy. RDS has an optional install kit to gravity fill my main tank which has a float valve and won't overfill if you leave the valve at the tank open. I put a Stewart Warner fuel pump in line and it will fill the truck tank in about 30min, the gravity fill takes longer. With the 'tranfer tank' and my truck tank I can hold 96 gals of diesel, and a range when towing my travel trailer of about 900 mi. using 10mpg. Really I get about 11-12 mpg towing and about 19-22mpg everyday driving, (I'm retired so I can drive the speed limit I recently took a trip FLA-AZ-FLA averaged 11.7mpg, and filled with diesel (leaving with full tanks) 3 times as Wally Worlds cheap diesel was about 500 miles apart, so be able to choose where to buy fuel and not have to buy at more expensive stations really paid off...


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## LincTex

Justaguy987 said:


> With the lid closed, it looked just like a Deep tool box that went all the way to the bed. Open the lid and there was the filler neck and transfer pump. About 1/3 of the total space was still used as a tool box.


I have built these in the past, but it's been a while (the 90's). I usually started with a steel bed box and modified it from there. The ones I made never had a transfer pump out, just a filler neck inside. To get fuel out I used a standard electric dual tank valve from any 70's Ford or Chevy truck.

If a person wanted a fair bit of extra fuel and had good fab skills, you could build a tank that fits ANY available space.

One that fits the whole front of the bed, from under the window down to the floor, and side-to-side but only 4" thick (very slim) still holds over 20 extra gallons, and uses almost no space in the bed. The L-shaped tanks that fit in-front-of-and-under the bed box are prob the most popular and hold quite a bit.

With a little ingenuity, you can store well over 100 gallons of fuel on the truck and not look suspicious at all.


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## Shammua

I think this thread was just what I needed to get the wheels turning. I'm going to get my welding/fabrication skills back up and then custom make me a fuel tank for my spare tire spot under my super duty. I'm going to make it a switchable duel tank, I should be able to get most of the parts off of wrecked trucks. 
I know there are legal issues with that if I don't do it right, that's why I'm going to use my State Trooper buddy (he is assigned state inspections duty right now) to make sure I won't fail our inspections here in VA.
If I remember correctly I should be able to get at least 50 gallons (hopefully more) of extra fuel on top of my current 30 gallons. That could put me in the 800+ mile ability then if needed.

Has anyone ever taken a down opening tail gate off a truck and put the swing opening from an SUV on so they can put a swing out tire carrier on? Just a thought.


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## Caribou

I have been thinking about this for some time. I would like a second tank underneath the bed but an in bed tank with a pump would be convenient to transfer fuel to another vehicle, or a storage tank at home or elsewhere. Wait a minute, are they mutually exclusive?


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## smaj100

What kind of material would give you the most bang for the back to fab a tank for fuel storage? I'd want something fairly durable for either in the bed things banging around or hitting it or under the bed same scenario.

Some awesome ideas floating around.


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## NaeKid

I have been looking at different options since I first started this thread - there seem to be a few more choices that I have learned about. I might need to get an "experts" opinion on this - maybe make friends with a local full-time GM-mechanic ...

I found that some of the 1-ton Chevy-trucks ran dual-tanks where the secondary-tank fed the primary tank via electric fuel-pump in such a way that both tanks would have approx. equal fuel.

http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/38ahy-2004-3500-silverado-dual-tanks-gas-gauge.html



> The rear tank has a fuel level sensor that tells the PCM how much fuel is in the rear tank. At specific times, based on both fuel level sensors, the PCM turns the rear fuel pump on to put fuel into the front tank. I don't recall the algorithm, I could probably look it up somewhere. However, the rear tank level is not reflected on the gauge. The idea is that the PCM keeps both tanks at relatively the same level all the time. It's actually pretty simple, the computer does all of the work.


If this information works, I might be able to take the fuel-system out of a 1-ton truck and fit it into my 3/4-ton, but, then I would need to flash the computer in mine to mimic the 1-ton ... ARGH!

Why can't things be simple?


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## Shammua

smaj100 - I would make the tank itself out of some type of material that is fairly easy to work with. I will be using a thinner sheet metal that will take welds nicely. It will be frame mounted so after install I will fab a Skid plate out of thicker durable material that can take a heavy beating...

NaeKid - If it was easy what would be the fun in that? Have you thought about putting in duel tanks and having it set as a separate toggle for switching tanks. I don't remember how to do it myself, but you can set it up so that you don't even have to mess with the computer.


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## NaeKid

My original thought on the project was to take a basic fuel-tank from a 2004 Chevy Suburban (GMC Yukon), fit it between the frame-rails at the back, cut a hole into the side of my box, put a stock looking fill-port in there and then run the fuel-lines and power to the pump and wires for the fuel-guage.

Then I learned that the whole fuel-system is micro-controlled through the on-board computer-system, it threw a wrench into my "simple minded" plans.

If I can do the whole dual-tank setup for less than that $1500 single replacement tank, I'll probably do the dual-tank. If not, then the poly-tank will be the next thing to consider ...

But, with all that being said-n-done, I still have my B&W goose-neck hitch / 5th wheel hitch to mount in my truck ..

http://www.turnoverball.com/products/gooseneck-hitch/turnoverball-gooseneck-hitch


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## Caribou

Naekid-

Looks like you are setting this truck really sweet. Just another option, drop in your second tank, put a switch to an electric pump and a rear fuel tank gage in the cab. Whenever you wish pump as much as you want from the rear to the main tank. When finances allow, put in the oversized plastic tank as well.


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## cowboyhermit

I really like being able to isolate one tank so Caribou's suggestion sounds good to me if it is too complicated to have it switch over with a toggle. You can pick up a little inline fuel pump at princess auto for peanuts if the one in the tank is too much trouble.
On some of our old big trucks and semi's there is simply a gravity line from one tank to the other so that they fill and empty the same but I like to have a valve between the two.


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## NaeKid

I just about lost my truck today after work ... 

Some idiot tried to make a left-hand-turn in front of me .. following a semi-truck that was turning left in front of me. The semi-truck was doin' just fine, the mini-van didn't even slow-down to look if anyone was coming, he was going through.

Smacked the brake-peddle hard, ABS worked overtime and when my truck finally stopped, there was about 3" between my front bumper and his passenger door.



As I was driving home, the radio kept up with the traffic-reports ... accident here, there and everywhere!


Is it a full-moon tonite?


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## smaj100

Wow glad you didnt have an accident with all this work your planning...

You will love the turnover ball. I've had one installed for almost 10 yrs now using it to haul our goose neck horse trailer with living quarters. Depending what you toss or haul around in the bed of your truck. The one thing you might look at doing is to tie a small loop of string on the inside of the turnover. If you dont flip it around often or leave it upside down more often than not. It'll get stuck upside down and with very little to grab on to pull it out.

Sham - Are there any particular metals to avoid for containing/storing diesel? I'm assuming anything in the steel grade? I can weld up to 1/2" but that might be a we bit thick and heavy to slap in the bed of the truck.


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## Tirediron

most of the fabricated tanks that I have seen are built from 12 or 14 Gauge mild steel. if you build one remember a drain port at the lowest point, a draw port about 3/4" up , the fill of course and it is handy to put a hand hole /guage plate on the top somewhere, extra ports are handy and almost impossible to add after the tank has seen Gas, unless it is steamed and done hot. Bend as many seams as you can and only weld those that you need to.


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## NaeKid

smaj100 said:


> Wow glad you didnt have an accident with all this work your planning...
> 
> You will love the turnover ball. I've had one installed for almost 10 yrs now using it to haul our goose neck horse trailer with living quarters. Depending what you toss or haul around in the bed of your truck. The one thing you might look at doing is to tie a small loop of string on the inside of the turnover. If you dont flip it around often or leave it upside down more often than not. It'll get stuck upside down and with very little to grab on to pull it out.
> 
> Sham - Are there any particular metals to avoid for containing/storing diesel? I'm assuming anything in the steel grade? I can weld up to 1/2" but that might be a we bit thick and heavy to slap in the bed of the truck.


I am hoping that with that TurnOver-ball I would be able to do a buy-n-sell through the auctions around here to attempt to turn a bit of a profit by "curbing" the trailers. Camping, deck and enclosed trailers can be fairly inexpensive at auctions, I should be able to get at least a $1000 over the purchase price and put that into my back-pocket for my retirement fund ...

As far as materials go, many guys will put a fuel-cell made of aluminum into their Jeeps or go-fast cars. Aluminum is a little more difficult to work with, but, it holds up very well with fuel inside. If you go with mild-steel, there are kits that you can purchase from many motorcycle shops to seal a motorcycle gas-tank ... it would also work well in your application.

http://www.jpcycles.com/motorcycle-gas-tank-sealers






A forum-discussion about sealers: http://www.antiquemotorcycle.org/bboard/showthread.php?16968-Gas-Tank-Sealers


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## Magus

smaj100 said:


> What kind of material would give you the most bang for the back to fab a tank for fuel storage? I'd want something fairly durable for either in the bed things banging around or hitting it or under the bed same scenario.
> 
> Some awesome ideas floating around.


Stainless steel.
Did you know many large truck mufflers are stainless steel these days? plug one hole, put a pipe on the other, viola.the baffles will make it more explosion proof and gluing magnets to it and your oil pan keeps metallic crap out of your motor.


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## LincTex

NaeKid said:


> ARGH! Why can't things be simple?


Well, they can be. When I was a teenager and piecing together random farm trucks, my dual tank setups just used an electric fuel pump to pump from the aux tank into the main tank. So simple. I would just watch the fuel gauge on the main tank and when it reached near "full" I turned the switch off on the aux tank. Keep in mind, I never spent a dime to do any of this - I was too poor. This was just parts from "laying around".

The only issue you would need to address for your newer truck is the tanks must both use non-vented caps, and you need to run a 1/4" (7mm ID) vent hose to equalize pressure between main and aux tanks.


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## Shammua

smaj100 said:


> Sham - Are there any particular metals to avoid for containing/storing diesel? I'm assuming anything in the steel grade? I can weld up to 1/2" but that might be a we bit thick and heavy to slap in the bed of the truck.


Not really, mainly because there is a coating that you will put on the inside of the tank that will help prevent rust and corrosion. I'll try to put together what I am going to be doing. I'll make sure I list all materials, and specifics including what gauge of metal, why, and what it will have done to it and when. Basically I'll try to do a full write up.

It may be a little bit though, my daughter wants me to build a metal detector, an IR sensor with alarm, and some sort of sensor to open her door when the cat wants in. lol yes we are doing some electronic work for next next couple weeks it seems so I'll get on the tank as soon as I can. I should be able to write up the beginning process at least.

Do you know how to tig? I'm stuck with mig since I don't have access to tig right now. Pray I don't make a ton of pin holes with my welds...

Shamm


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## LincTex

smaj100 said:


> Are there any particular metals to avoid for containing/storing diesel?


Supposedly diesel is very corrosive to zinc. My factory F-250 gas tank is zinc coated inside (galvanized) and it seemed I was plugging a lot of fuel filters for the first few months after converting to diesel.

Supposedly, BioDiesel (a transesterified product) is VERY corrosive to brass and copper. I hope not!! I have several brass fittings in my fuel system. I have always added some used motor oil to my diesel, so I think that helps reduce corrosiveness. All of the fuel pumps around here say "between 5% and 20% Biodiesel added"


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## readytogo

*Large capacity fuel tanks*

http://www.performance4trucks.com/Performance-Parts/Fuel-Tanks-and-Fuel-Cells.aspx?t_c=74&t_s=433

Bed mounted tanks call attention and are easily broken in and of course undercarriage ones are expensive but worth it .Also having fuel on hand is a good backup with a fuel additive it will last a long time.
http://www.bing.com/shopping/search?q=portable+fuel+caddy&qpvt=portable+fuel+caddy&FORM=HURE#x0y93


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## Shammua

I'm crawling under my truck tomorrow and taking some pictures along with measurements so I can start designing my tank this week. 
Like I said earlier I will post up all the steps I will be taking from initial drawing, to final testing after install. I'll do my best to remember to take lots of pictures so you all can have a visual of my progress. 
Ha ha ha I'll even post up my mistakes and fixes. 
I'll start a new thread when I begin this.


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## readytogo

*Extra Fuel*

Having extra fuel is a good idea but driving around town with a loaded tank with 100 gallons is not, having a storage tank at home is feasible, underground, with the proper additives will keep a long time, besides it will be rotated anyway. This company has been around for a while.
http://www.transferflow.com/
Fuel additives.
http://www.priproducts.com/consumer_products.cfm


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## LincTex

readytogo said:


> Having extra fuel is a good idea but driving around town with a loaded tank with 100 gallons is not,


I agree, with gas @ 6lbs and diesel at 6.7lbs per gallon, I would be hauling 670 pounds of extra fuel! The only time I do this is when transporting fuel from one location to another, though (like station to farm).

If I needed to make a lonnnng road trip and knew fuel was going to be sparse, I would like to have the extra capacity.

I was in Madison, Wis back in '94 when a dude with a new yellow Kenworth was filing FOUR 300 gallon frame tanks (1200 gallons). Well, maybe he didn't fill all four of them that day... I asked where he was headed; he said "Alaska".

Sheesh, with diesel hovering around $4 a gallon now-a-days, that would be almost $5 Grand to fill all four tanks. That is farkin' nuts!!


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## helicopter5472

Back when I had my trucking company, (Mid 80's) when fuel went over a dollar a gallon lots of independent truckers went from independent to larger companies due to the cost...Now look at it. Now you know why your groceries are so high....


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