# Necessary maintainance and trouble shooting sticky



## Tirediron (Jul 12, 2010)

The Holly is sick thread makes me wonder if we should have a maintenance / tips and tricks sticky. 
non conducting oxidization is a sneaky problem , connections can look clean from the outside, but the current might not flow. 
Simple cheap tools like a multi meter can tell you a bunch of information quickly. 
Sometime someone can reword an explanation so that it makes sense or has a systematic flow.


----------



## backlash (Nov 11, 2008)

Just to let folks know.
Harbor Freight occasionally has a coupon for a free multimeter.
They are not the best but they are free and they will help you troubleshoot electrical problems.
If you can't find a coupon they are only $10 normal price.
Right now they are on sale for $5.99
Better than nothing.


----------



## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

My biggest worry is that by the time you get into so many possible scenarios, you may as well have just purchased a really nice electric troubleshooting and repair manual.

Electricity can make people pull their hair out, especially in vehicles. 
How many people on the road have trailer lights that REALLY work exactly like they should? 
Ha! I rest my case!   

Same thing with modern EFI vehicles - I have made a car that ran horrible clear right up and purr like a kitten just from adding an additional ground wire! The really weird thing is, the engine was already grounded well to both the frame and the chassis/body, so I can't explain "why".... just that "it did".

I have learned enough over the years that not much catches me by surprise anymore, but I could write a book with all the tips and tricks needed to cover all of them. Instead of doing that, I'll just handle each symptom on a case-by-case basis. If this thread takes off - more power to it! 

Remember people clean connections are a MUST, and any electrons that travel down a wire MUST find a return path back as well! Those two tips will cover about 85% of all problems!


----------



## Tirediron (Jul 12, 2010)

Electrical problems can be especially frustrating because of the vast amount of electrons (work energy) that can flow down a wire but can be blocked by a tiny bit of insulative corrosion. Ground or as LincTex put it return path is one of the biggest electrical issues.

Post 8 by Caribou on the Holly is sick thread clearly explains the proper Battery to starter method 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I would start by cleaning every electrical terminal and connection from the battery to the starter. I would get to shiny metal on all contacts. I pay special attention to the back side of the nuts and both sides of the terminals.

If that doesn't work try swapping batteries with another vehicle. I have had problems go away after replacing a battery that tested well.

Go through it in a systematic manner starting with the simplest answer first. You might give serious consideration to picking up a shop manual for your machine. 
__________________
_much more clearly than the solution that I gave a couple of posts earlier. (other than the sealing after cleaning part)

A well written explanation of how to use a simple multimeter to check for flow stoppages due to corrosion would be another good addition.

even the simple need to clean battery terminals if the seal is not complete_


----------



## cowboyhermit (Nov 10, 2012)

I certainly agree about the multimeter, if you want to have any electrical, get one, or three. Sure you can get by without one with a lot of old tricks but it just isn't worth it. A test light you can skip imo but not a meter. You don't need a DC clamp meter by any means (though they are certainly handy at times) but having a better quality one is nice if you can manage it. Having one when you need it is the main thing though, even the cheapest one is better than nothing.


----------



## readytogo (Apr 6, 2013)

*Have tools-pay less.*

A good electrical/sensor tester manual, multimeter, vehicle wiring diagram (essential), short and open circuit finder and tracer tool; there are other specific tools like fuel injector testers, fuel pressure testers (installing a fuel pressure gauge will help a lot on determining fuel problems), keeping battery clamps and post clean is primal, good set of mechanical gauges (temp-amps-oil pressure) will tell your eng performance at a glance. And like my father taught me, work backwards, from the least expensive repair and on, it could be a loose or corroded ground wire and not the alternator or a fuel filter and not the pump. And if it seems difficult take a break and have a beer, it`ll come to you.


----------



## Tirediron (Jul 12, 2010)

one really handy testing tool that I use is a simple automotive headlamp, the low beam circuit draws about 5 amps, hi 10 , together 15, some times a corroded connection will show very close to full voltage , but won't carry much load.


----------



## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

Tirediron said:


> Sometimes a corroded connection will show very close to full voltage, but won't carry much load.


Had many of these situations keep the head a-scratchin' as well. I don't get fooled by them very often anymore, but sure used to!


----------



## smaj100 (Oct 17, 2012)

I always try to grab a couple of the small packets of dielectric grease every time i wonder into the parts store. I've got a small drawer full of them now. Anytime I have to perform maintenance on an outside piece of equipment. I clean everything thoroughly and place a small amount of the grease on the connectors, then top with a lock washer to help prevent anything from working loose and that has helped chasing electronic gremlins more than anything else i've ever tried.


----------



## Tirediron (Jul 12, 2010)

Like many of my "brilliant" ideas this kind of fell on it's face, :dunno:


----------



## NaeKid (Oct 17, 2008)

Tirediron said:


> Like many of my "brilliant" ideas this kind of fell on it's face, :dunno:


Color me confused ... but this thread seems to be doing well. Or, are you talkin' about making it sticky?


----------



## Tirediron (Jul 12, 2010)

I guess I was expecting more questions as in what if this happens ?... or how do I do this ?.... And of course I am an impatient old Koot, that really helps.

As to the sticky, I think we would have to do some editing to compress the information and make the gear head ramblings somewhat understandable to mere mortals


----------



## smaj100 (Oct 17, 2012)

Not sure if this is the right spot.. 

Has anyone given any thought to using alternatives to 2 stroke oil? I know many folks have fuel stored and discussions have gone on at great length to different storage techniques. What if you rely on a chainsaw to cut wood to heat or cook with? A tiller to work a garden plot. I know I have several cases of 2 stroke mix and the premixed oil/gas in cans stored. What happens when that runs out?

I've read a few articles on other forums that discusses using straight 30W as that was apparently standard practice before all the EPA emissions crap showed up and the need for these new mixes came about? Could you re use, used filtered oil? Maybe a couple gallons of straight 30W stored?

Anyone actually have any experience or precautions?


----------



## smaj100 (Oct 17, 2012)

Not sure if this is the right spot.. 

Has anyone given any thought to using alternatives to 2 stroke oil? I know many folks have fuel stored and discussions have gone on at great length to different storage techniques. What if you rely on a chainsaw to cut wood to heat or cook with? A tiller to work a garden plot. I know I have several cases of 2 stroke mix and the premixed oil/gas in cans stored. What happens when that runs out?

I've read a few articles on other forums that discusses using straight 30W as that was apparently standard practice before all the EPA emissions crap showed up and the need for these new mixes came about? Could you re use, used filtered oil? Maybe a couple gallons of straight 30W stored?

Anyone actually have any experience or precautions?


----------



## Tirediron (Jul 12, 2010)

I remember that we had an ancient David Bradley chain saw that recommended 30w as engine mix, but the fuel for it would foul the plug on a more modern saw (this was in the mid seventies) the mix rate for the D-B was pretty oily as I recall. a friend had a 2 stroke Dirtbike that they used G 30 compressor oil in as mix, but compressor oil has a lot less additives. Personally I would lean more towards a mid weight hydraulic oil if I couldn't get 2 stroke oil. Walmart super tech 2 stroke is a reasonable price, storing a couple of gallons wouldn't be too expensive.


----------



## Tirediron (Jul 12, 2010)

*prepping a diesel for winter*

IF you are new to diesels, pre winter you should : depending on your climate. 
Always add a fuel conditioner, like Howes lubricator to your fuel in the tank, and run the engine for at least 1/2 hour to mix it. 
Change the fuel filters in the fall, starting winter with fresh fuel filters is always a good plan. have a spare set on hand to incase of fuel gelling problems (you forgot to treat your fuel or didn't mix it or maybe a fuel mix up by supplier.)

change your engine oil to a lighter multigrade that is recommended for it 0w40 works nice in most climates and is OK in summer too.

Load test you battery and clean/ seal the cables, test the alternator output.


----------



## Caribou (Aug 18, 2012)

Water heater

Turn the water heater off.
Shut off the water to the water heater.
Hook up a garden hose to the drain.
Open the drain.
Open the pressure relief valve to break the suction.
After the tank is empty or at least clear water is running reverse the process.

This should be done at least once a year. Your water heater is a great settling tank and collects all sorts of stuff. This will provide you with cleaner water, it will extend the life of your water heater, and if you need to get drinking water in an emergency it will give you more clean water instead of the first few gallons being really ugly guck only suitable for flushing.


----------



## crabapple (Jan 1, 2012)

LincTex said:


> My biggest worry is that by the time you get into so many possible scenarios, you may as well have just purchased a really nice electric troubleshooting and repair manual.
> 
> Electricity can make people pull their hair out, especially in vehicles.
> How many people on the road have trailer lights that REALLY work exactly like they should?
> ...


LincTex, you sound like a man who has been under a few hoods in your day.

I have someone in my sphere that is great on troubleshooting of all kinds.
He told me to search the net for blogs on auto problems is one way to solve the hard problems.
One person bumped a tree hard enough to kick an electrician safety switch out & it had to be reset before you could run the car.
I thing that was a Ford.


----------



## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

Tirediron said:


> a friend had a 2 stroke Dirtbike that they used G 30 compressor oil in as mix, but compressor oil has a lot less additives. Personally I would lean more towards a mid weight hydraulic oil if I couldn't get 2 stroke oil..


STP - a little goes a LONG way. Once it's on the bearings and cylinder walls it does NOT wash off. I add 1/2 tsp to a gallon of 2 cycle mix (plus normal 50:1 oil)


----------

