# Gun Oil and Solvent Questions



## jkbrown_us

Hello all,

A few questions regarding gun oils and solvents:

1) What is the shelf life of these? Are there any ways to extend their shelf life like their is for gasoline using stabilizers?

2) I have found many different kinds and brands of both oil and solvents, does anyone have any favorites they would recommend and the reasons why?

3) Does anyone know where you can buy in bulk on the internet. Google has let me down!!

Thanks all, as I am sure many of you know, gun cleaning is a religion in Corps Ou-rah!


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## tac803

As far as solvent, the industry standard is Hoppes #9. I have a bottle that is 20 yrs old that I just opened, and it's as good as new. What oil you use depends to a large part on what you are trying to accomplish. Cold weather dictates a lighter weight, low viscosity oil, and certain guns require special consideration. The M1 Garand likes grease, while the AR variants can be run almost dry, but prefer low viscosity or light weight oil. Handguns are usually lightly oiled, but again, some like the Glock prefer a lithium like grease at contact points. Any good quality gun oil will do the job.

As far as buying in bulk, I have a couple of bottles of oil and solvent that should last me the next several years. Not sure if anybody sells the stuff in bulk, but unless you are taking care of crew served weapons, :2thumb:you probably don't need it.


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## jkbrown_us

Thanks Tac, great points! As far as buying in bulk, I am not looking for a 55 gal drum but I do shoot competitive on the weekends and I have gone through 2 small Hopps bottles I got from Academy in 3 months. I was looking to buy a supply that would last me 2 to 3 years if the SHTF. Not sure how much that might be but with your thoughts on how long it lasts sounds like it would be a sound buy.


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## tac803

You might want to grab a couple of bore snakes too...makes it a lot easier to de-gunk barrels. Only bad thing is they suck up solvent like a sponge! Keep the faith.


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## SurviveNthrive

At work we fire about 450 rounds every six months. We carry our firearms frequently and we've a wet climate, but there's not much time to clean our firearms so we have to use really efficient stuff.

We work with Gunscrubber to get the carbon out and follow up with Tetra oil. It's amazingly quick and if you do a quick spray and clean, with a touch up follow up a few days later, you'll maintain a clean firearm.


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## ZoomZoom

Being a fellow jarhead, how about CLP? _I'm assuming the Marines still use it..._

I've bought it in gallon jugs which last quite awhile.


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## ZombieHitman

jkbrown_us said:


> Hello all,
> 
> A few questions regarding gun oils and solvents:
> 
> 1) What is the shelf life of these? Are there any ways to extend their shelf life like their is for gasoline using stabilizers?
> 
> *I've never been concerned enough to worry about shelf life on my solvents and oils for my lead lobbers. Like someone else mentioned, they last quite a while (many years), and at the rate you and I use them, having ample supplies on hand is a challenge in and of itself*
> 
> 2) I have found many different kinds and brands of both oil and solvents, does anyone have any favorites they would recommend and the reasons why?
> 
> *Hoppes #9 is great, CLP is great, Remoil is ok (makes the outside pretty but that's about what it's worth to me), Butch's Bore Shine is awesome (really stinky stuff, but awesome on copper and lead fouling) shooters choice is OK.*
> 
> 3) Does anyone know where you can buy in bulk on the internet. Google has let me down!!
> 
> *Midway usually has larger jugs of CLP and Hoppes, but the rest are a shot in the dark. Try Cheaper than Dirt, Sinclair/Brownells, and Midsouth Shooters Supply.*
> 
> Thanks all, as I am sure many of you know, gun cleaning is a religion in Corps Oooh-rah!


Oh, most certainly it is, and for my brother and I (He was A 1/2, I was B 1/5), it still is....OK, well , for ME it is...he's another story after what I found in his bolt carrier last evening....coulda slapped him!
A few other things I keep on hand for doing a good detail on my hardware:
Q-tips by the box
Patches (bags of them)
Pipe cleaners (craft store bulk ones work just fine)
Chore Boy copper scrubbies (Hafta be the copper ones - only ones soft enough NOT to damage the lands & grooves of your rifling, and no, green scrubbies don't work real well)
Wood Stick q-tips (handy for getting way down in the action on AR types and semiauto handguns
Extra bore brushes in each caliber - 3-10 depending on what I shoot the most
Clean hospital surgical lint free rags - I have a nurse friend that gets them for me. They're washable, reusable, and live forever. Perfect for wiping down guns - they leave nothing behind!
Bench Cradle- indispensable for holding that pea shooter still when cleaning it
Old coffee cups - the ceramic ones - I have homebrew solvent solutions in a couple of them that I use for specific purposes when soaking heavily fouled parts, like my brother's bolt...and my ML breechplug.

If you don't have a compressor, a couple cans of "canned air" for blowing things out from where they're not sposta be can be handy.

A couple extra bath towels folded in half on the bench while working are wonderful too. Make sure to use the nasty ones (or, buy Mama a couple nice new ones before taking the old ones!), as they'll NEVER be clean again.

Plastic Wrap - if you slather and soak things with solvents, it's often a good idea to protect the surrounding surfaces - I like cling wrap/plastic wrap (over scopes, stocks, places I DON'T want the cleaning liquids). Cheap, easy, fast.

If you shoot a lot, I'd also suggest a bore guide. Helps keep the rod inside the bore, and helps prevent damage to the crown and wear from the cleaning rod. I use carbon rods myself, but still use a bore guide.


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## HardenedPrepper

Hi there, I use slip2000 for all my guns, it works great, better than anything I've ever used, they have different vicosities and grease, don't know if I can post a link but here it is.
SLiP2000™ Gun Lubricants and Cleaners


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## jkbrown_us

Thanks All, great ideas and suggestions!


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## BobR1

*Home Brew Formulas*

*Gun Cleaning Solvent: *Ed's Red (Can be found on an Internet search)
1 Quart K1 Kerosene The extra clean kind for indoor use.
1 Quart Mineral Spirits
1 Quart Dextron III automatic transmission fluid

Mix and store in a 1 Gallon Gas Can correctly labeled

*Gun Oil*:
1 Quart Mobile 1 Synthetic Motor Oil (weight: 0W30 to 10W30)
1 Quart Dextron III Automatic Transmission Fluid

Optional: small tube of graphite

Mix and Store in a 1 Gallon Gas Can 
This is going to be very close to LUCAS Gun Oil.

*Gun Grease*:
Red Farm Equipment Grease seems to work fine.

Put it in a container you can get your finger into.

And you can make bigger batches if needed.

NOTE: Before making a large batch, mix a small amount of both, and give them a try, and see if they meet your expectations for a light gun oil, and a general purpose cleaning solvent. 
You may also want to stock special purpose cleaning and lubrication products. I use Burchwood Caseys Stainless Steel + on my stainless 1911 slide rails for example. I also have copper removing solvents.
I probably have enough cleaning products to fill the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket. Some I like better than others. The homade solvent seems to work about the same as #9 from what I can tell.


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## BasecampUSA

Heh... sounds like that ******* has (had ?) a LOT of cheap guns...

Nothing I'd like to use on my collection, though 

Sorry, I grew up in a gunshop... my old man was chief gunsmith for Stoeger's after he immigrated...

I've got 4 of these (private collection) in different calibers he made when he worked at Zi-Di in Germany before the war, starting at $30,000...
Grosswildbüchsen: Ziegenhahn und Sohn OHG

Good 'ol Hoppes worked fine for decades... even for my conventional "arsenal" (M-1,M-14,AKs,H&K,Galil,Uzi,Glock etc.)

- Basey



BobR1 said:


> *Gun Cleaning Solvent: *Ed's Red (Can be found on an Internet search)
> 1 Quart K1 Kerosene The extra clean kind for indoor use.
> 1 Quart Mineral Spirits
> 1 Quart Dextron III automatic transmission fluid
> 
> Mix and store in a 1 Gallon Gas Can correctly labeled
> 
> *Gun Oil*:
> 1 Quart Mobile 1 Synthetic Motor Oil (weight: 0W30 to 10W30)
> 1 Quart Dextron III Automatic Transmission Fluid
> 
> Optional: small tube of graphite
> 
> Mix and Store in a 1 Gallon Gas Can
> This is going to be very close to LUCAS Gun Oil.
> 
> *Gun Grease*:
> Red Farm Equipment Grease seems to work fine.
> 
> Put it in a container you can get your finger into.
> 
> And you can make bigger batches if needed.


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## horseman09

My very earliest memory is the aroma of Hoppes #9. So I guess I'm stuck on that. I've used nothing but that all these years.

Speaking of early memories, I've always been taught to never us WD40 and other such penetrating oils on a weapon because it can penetrate the primer and deactivate it. Don't know if it's true, but that has alway been gospel in my family going back about 60 years.


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## wtr100

I think yer ed's red is missing Acetone - IMHO the most important part


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## BasecampUSA

Acetone???

Good way to take the finish off your gun in about 2 seconds too!

Spill some on junk furniture and retract in horror!

- Basey


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## vn6869

BobR1 said:


> *Gun Cleaning Solvent: *Ed's Red (Can be found on an Internet search)
> 1 Quart K1 Kerosene The extra clean kind for indoor use.
> 1 Quart Mineral Spirits
> 1 Quart Dextron III automatic transmission fluid
> 
> Mix and store in a 1 Gallon Gas Can correctly labeled
> 
> *Gun Oil*:
> 1 Quart Mobile 1 Synthetic Motor Oil (weight: 0W30 to 10W30)
> 1 Quart Dextron III Automatic Transmission Fluid
> 
> Optional: small tube of graphite
> 
> Mix and Store in a 1 Gallon Gas Can
> This is going to be very close to LUCAS Gun Oil.
> 
> *Gun Grease*:
> Red Farm Equipment Grease seems to work fine.
> 
> Put it in a container you can get your finger into.
> 
> And you can make bigger batches if needed.
> 
> NOTE: Before making a large batch, mix a small amount of both, and give them a try, and see if they meet your expectations for a light gun oil, and a general purpose cleaning solvent.
> . . . The homade solvent seems to work about the same as #9 from what I can tell.


Agreed, I have been making my own - Ed's Red - for about five years now. Using it both as oil and cleaning solvent. 
I make both with and without acetone, clean a lot of O/U shotgun barrels where I don't need to worry about the wood finish. 
Store mine in metal can as the acetone will eat through the plastic ones.

Better than buying in bulk - But if you must, check out Midway USA. They have large bottles of Hoppe's - but not drums I'm afraid.


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## BobR1

I left the Acetone out on purpose. From what I read for long term storage it will evaporate out of the mix.

If you would like to know what is in the ORIGINAL version of Hoppes #9 you can find it here.
Homemade Firearm Related Products

*ADDED:* When looking at the site above read all the way to the bottom. You will find Case Sizing Lube.
1 Part Pure Liquid Lanolin to 3-5 parts 99% Isopropyl Alcohol. My mix is 1 to 3. I ran out of Dillon, and the oldest son came up with this one for me. It works as good as Dillon Case lube. I pitched a full bottle of Hornady One Shot after trying this blend.

*ADDED:* Another lube recipe has Dextron II Mobile 1 and STP in it. I think I will give this one a try for slide rails.

I read above where one fellow was worried about the condition of my gear. I doubt a hi grade synthetic oil will hurt anything needing oiled.
So far the bore cleaner seems to work just fine for bore cleaner.

RED Grease: I need to tune a little above in the first post. It will get stiff when cold. I would probably skip using it on semiautomatic rifles what will have heavy use. I use it on pivot pins, etc.

I will go pack to my original post above and make a few updates to it.


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## unioncreek

Google Ed's Red, that's all I use anymore. It's cheap to make and does a good job.

Guess I should read all the posts before responding.

Bobg


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## OldCootHillbilly

Ed's Red is spokin well of throught the shootin community. His formula's be based on ones from the franklin aresnal I beleive.

You can keep the stuff on hand ta mix up the bore cleaner, oil an such. May come a time when it be all ya have.


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## xring3

Kano Kroil.....can get it by the gallon


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## BobR1

The Ed's Red Formula is an Updated version of Hatchers Frankford Arsenal #18 Cleaning Solvent. Some original ingrediants like Sperm Whale Oil are no longer available. One ingrediant was very flammable and was replaced with another that did the same job and was much safer.

The Gun Oil Formula
50% Dextron III
50% Mobil One Synthetic 0W-20

This is supposed to be the mix for Lucas Gun Oil.

I am guessing the Spray Case Lube is going to very close to what Dillon is selling also. It works exactly the same, and looks the same.

Bob


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## HamiltonFelix

I have Break Free, Tetra, Hornady One-Shot, and various other lubricants around. I like Hoppe's for cleaning. I heard somewhere that Hoppe's #9 is largely kerosene. I don't know about that, but I do know it has a bad effect if left on nickel plating. If I got desperate for lubricants, I think any modern light motor oil would work fine. I sometimes think about what the old timers had to use before the dawn of the Petroleum Age.

I've known about Ed's Red, but never made any. Curiousity will eventually get the better of me. I read one guy on a 1911 list who mixed half and half Mobil One and STP. I did make up some of that, but felt it too heavy and sticky for guns. It was useful in other applications.

Copper removing bore cleaners are a special item, high ammonia content (hmmm.... I knew there was a reason I kept that partial jug of 28% technical strength ammonia). Not the same as ordinary Hoppe's.

I'm not a big fan of grease, even for long term storage. Break Free, a VCI bag and then a vacuum sealed bag will more than do it.

Even oil gums up in time. I inherited a pink High Standard Sentinel that Dad bought Mom around 1957. Probably hasn't been opened up since then. Recently, I found I could pull it through double action and it would turn the cylinder but not pick up the hammer. I removed the grip, cleaned up a bit of gummy oil, the hosed it out with Brake Kleen, let it dry, then spayed it with Hornady One Shot. Oh yeah, I worked the action after the Brake Kleen and let the trigger _snap_ forward. It started picking up the hammer just fine. The whole problem was lots of time in the safe and old oil in its guts getting gummy.

I've used WD-40 for various things, but don't really consider it a long term preservative. LPS-3 is a different story, but I don't use it on guns.

I guess if I get hard up for cleaners, I have lots of kerosene around for my lamps, plus a bit of diesel.

I have to brag a bit: I have a woman who likes the smell of Hoppe's #9 and really wants the reloading bench in the master bedrooom. Life is Good.


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## LincTex

HamiltonFelix said:


> I read one guy on a 1911 list who mixed half and half Mobil One and STP. I did make up some of that, but felt it too heavy and sticky for guns. It was useful in other applications.


I sometimes add STP to various lubricants, but only in very small quantities. A little bit goes a long, long way in a two stroke engine. I have had several two cycle engines that would have seized had it not been for a very small film/layer of STP on the engine parts. Impressive stuff in that application, and very little is needed.



HamiltonFelix said:


> I have to brag a bit: I have a woman who likes the smell of Hoppe's #9 and really wants the reloading bench in the master bedrooom. Life is Good.


I envy you!!!


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## partdeux

WD-40 is an evil product. Pretends to be a lubricant, but evaporates into a gummy sticky mess, requiring more... WD-40


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## LincTex

partdeux said:


> WD-40 Pretends to be a lubricant, but evaporates into a mess


Too true. It has limited uses for temporary duty. I use it for very few tasks.


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## LongRider

Gunzilla Is The Worlds Best Gun Cleaner and Lubricant bar none. Anyone who disagrees is because they have not used it. I actually first bought it to disprove their claims. A Hoppes 9, Rem oil guy for forty years I was sure a one step gun cleaner lubricant was BS just like all the others before that made the same claim.

Since than I bought a gallon of it so I will always have some in stock and to give to Bros about to be deployed. Everyone I have ever given some to try has bought it to take with them. Several bought enough to assure that everyone in their unit/team used it. Take a look at Gunzilla The Worlds Best Gun Cleaner and Lubricant Over 300 posts and not one single negative post about Gunzilla. Pretty amazing considering the nature of gun forums.

The most impressive post to me was


buckeye .45 said:


> I know that I've posted on here about this product and how much I like it, and I just speak for myself, no other organization. But I used Gunzilla for my entire deployment on my weapon system (M-16a4), and it worked amazing, in everything from below freezing temperatures, up to over 110 degrees. I didn't have any malfunctions with my weapons. I found myself making the guys in my squad use it, and they didn't have any malfunctions.
> 
> I don't hesitate to recommend this product to people, as it has stood up to some of the harshest conditions I can imagine, and excelled.


I dunno about you but when not only your life but your brothers life depends on each of your weapons running flawlessly I'd be very careful before suggesting anyone use a particular product. I sure would never want to look at a brother's mom over his grave knowing I gave him a gun cleaner lubricant that caused his gun to jam.


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## LongRider

This has been done hundreds of times with the same results. Take you most pristine clean gun. Clean it again. Now clean with Gunzilla you will be amazed at the filth and carbon that it removes. Gunzilla is non toxic non flammable safe to carry on planes made from vegetable matter. All wives like the smell. It is a dry non ionic lubricant that does not attract dirt, dust, lint, grime or sand. Each time you use it your gun is easier to clean. My time cleaning a gun is less than a fourth of what it used to be. In many cases it takes longer to break down and reassemble the gun than it does to clean it. Anyway read the thread or better yet give it a try.


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## Friknnewguy

You sold me , I'll try it .


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## tyler_kd0bsa

xring3 said:


> Kano Kroil.....can get it by the gallon


I totally agree. I love that stuff.


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## drgnhntr37

Maybe I missed it but where do you get gunzilla I would like to try it.


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## LincTex

drgnhntr37 said:


> Maybe I missed it but where do you get gunzilla I would like to try it.


Try this:
http://www.google.com/search?q=gunzilla&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a&channel=rcs


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## LongRider

Friknnewguy said:


> You sold me , I'll try it .


I was not trying to sell anyone as I have no interest in the company but do want to see my fellow preppers get the best value for their dollar. You will not regret it. Get the big bottle because if you get the little bottle to test it as I did you will end up getting the bigger bottle and paying shipping for twice.



drgnhntr37 said:


> Maybe I missed it but where do you get gunzilla I would like to try it.


I bought mine for *Gunzilla.us* Dan is a great guy to deal with. He got me my gallon even though he does not normally carry it in gallon quantities. He is more than happy to help out with answers any questions you may have and is well informed. You can also get it from *Top Duck Products *Don is also very helpful. I believe both give discounts to anyone being deployed.


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## Fn/Form

In the last several years we've seen a lot of new innovations in lube. Some released without full spectrum testing. Other have a short shelf life, but you sure won't hear that from the manufacturer.

Most lubes work fine in good weather or when you constantly maintain application. Introduce an unexpected bath or hours in really cold weather (100% thermal soak) and you'll see sluggish operation or malfunctions. Combine the two, or with rain, and you understand why Northern winter hunters/trappers would run their bolt/lever/block/single-action firearms dry. Infrequent shots don't need lube, only season-friendly tolerance in the action. Today's semi-autos might not wear so well with a dry action.

Poor lube contributes to the separation of great weapons from the lesser, or good ammo from so-so ammo. The lesser already have tolerances or other factors stacked against them. Cold weather + underpowered ammo (Wolf, et. al.) + lesser quality parts might be a recipe for trouble. Been there, done that. It wasn't even freezing, either.

I don't know of one trainer with real, extended SOF experience that still recommends CLP. And they don't shill a product--they use what's proven in the field. They're wired into the guys still downrange, and their clients (LE/mil/civilian) need reliable lube that reduces preoccupation. FWIW, the military had a separate lube for arctic conditions (LAW). My cousin, who spent his junior grade years in charge of weapons platoon in Japan/Korea/AFG/IRQ, hated CLP. They switched to LSA and had almost zero malfunctions in their M16s and 240s. It took an act of much higher brass, but they eventually got their armorer to stock LSA. 

CLP is a choice, but not the best choice if you have an option.

Motor oil shouldn't be hard to come by, even if it has to come from an abandoned vehicle drain pan. If you're in doubt of availability, stock it. Some manufacturers recommend 5yr max shelf life (Mobil 1) for use in vehicles. Others say their product has an indefinite shelf life (Valvoline). Likely a MUCH longer usable life for firearms. Note that most oil gets sticky in really cold weather. It was intended for a pressurized system in freezing weather.

Take a look at the new breeds... sort out the shelf life, temp extremes, etc. I personally like the phase change of FrogLube--from liquid to waxy solid. It's been tested in cold, heat, semi-auto, full-auto by guys I trust before I started using it. It is re-formulated roller coaster lube. No joke. I think it has 25yr shelf life. 

I really like the carbon-fighting properties of FireClean. Great for DI guns. It was one of the lubes released before cold weather verification. WTF. But it's since passed with flying colors.

I've used Rem-Oil, FP-10 (best-smelling!), Sport-to-Sport, Ballistol, Militec, TW25, Slip2000, blah blah. Even combinations of the same on different parts of the same rifle. I still use Mobil 28 on my AR FCGs. To this day I shake all lube bottles... flippin CLP habits.


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## drgnhntr37

Thanks to both for the source. Will order some to try soon. 

Next question anyone tried the Lucas gun oil, my dw brought me a bottle from her work. It's I'd red colored and I assume it is synthetic like all there products. I have not used it yet because I also have been a rem oil fan.


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## LincTex

drgnhntr37 said:


> Next question anyone tried the Lucas gun oil, my dw brought me a bottle from her work. It's I'd red colored and I assume it is synthetic .


Synthetic auto trans fluid? If so, would likely be a decent lube. I like ATF for lubing many different things. I have noticed it doesn't get gummy over time either, like other oils will.


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## drgnhntr37

No not trans fluid. Actual Lucas gun oil


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## LincTex

drgnhntr37 said:


> No not trans fluid. Actual Lucas gun oil


I would *NOT* be surprised if Lucas used synthetic ATF and re-bottled it. Not surprised at all!


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## hangman

One of the best bore cleaners I came across was on advice from a shooters forum years ago.

a 50/50 blend of shooters choice bore cleaner and Kano's Kroil. I mix it up in a bottle with a small flip up pouring top. I run the bore with this and clean the action, bolt carrier, everything.


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## LongRider

Fn/Form said:


> In the last several years we've seen a lot of new innovations in lube. Some released without full spectrum testing. Other have a short shelf life, but you sure won't hear that from the manufacturer.


Do you mean something like these *Tests* ?
But for me product websites can say anything. Develop tests that reveal what they want them to. I place more credibility on the observations of real world customers that use a product. To me that counts more than any lab test. Which is why I posted a *Link* to hundreds of comments from, civilians to active duty military and law enforcement who have used the product. In the real world, in real world conditions, with real world use Gunzilla works better than advertised. I don't think you can expect or even hope for more from a product than that. 
This is what Don Kettles replied to me when I asked about the shelf life of Gunzilla before I bought a gallon of it.


Don Kettles said:


> On Feb 10, 2010, at 3:52 PM, Don Kettles wrote:
> We guaranteed the military a shelf life of 5 years in the bottle. As we get closer to the five year mark on our original batch we will probably be increasing the shelf life. In regards to how long it will last on the gun depends a lot on how much was originally put on the gun and the conditions where the gun is stored. Specifically we tell our customers to put a light moist coating on the metal areas of the gun for long term storage. Then I would check your guns after a year and see how they are looking. We have customers who have stored guns for two years with superior results. Just to be safe even if the guns look fine, I would clean the guns every two years with Gunzilla


I don't know how he could be anymore up front or transparent than that.



Fn/Form said:


> CLP is a choice, but not the best choice if you have an option.


I used to think that as I have tried several over the years and none lived up to the hype. Always returned to Hoppes 9 and Rem Oil with some lithium grease as my primary cleaning, lubrication routine but before I made a statement about products I had no experience with. I along with other skeptics like Ram Rod (on the *Link* I posted in my OP) we actually set out to disprove Gunzilla claims and bought some to test. Than despite our stated intent to disprove Gunzilla's claims, discovered that if anything Gunzilla understates its effectiveness as a cleaner, lubricant and protection. It's been over three years now that I have used only Gunzilla on all my guns if it had any shortcomings we'd know about it by now. Instead of disproving Gunzilla's claims the more I use it the more impressed and pleased I am with it. 


Fn/Form said:


> I don't know of one trainer with real, extended SOF experience that still recommends CLP.


There is a multitude of recommendations on *Gunzilla's Testimonial Page*
As well as on the manufactures website from
*Military*
*Champions *
and *Others*​
But once again I think that unsolicited comments by users unrelated to a product the most credible. Which is why I quoted *Buckeyes post*
A Former, USMC 0311, OIF/OEF vet
NRA Pistol/Rifle Instructor, RSO, Ohio CHL Instructor
My Firearms Blog: Little Miami Tactical Shooter's Corner​As you may recall he said


buckeye .45 said:


> I know that I've posted on here about this product and how much I like it, and I just speak for myself, no other organization. But I used Gunzilla for my entire deployment on my weapon system (M-16a4), and i*t worked amazing, in everything from below freezing temperatures, up to over 110 degrees*. I didn't have any malfunctions with my weapons. I found myself making the guys in my squad use it, and they didn't have any malfunctions.
> 
> I don't hesitate to recommend this product to people, as it has stood up to some of the harshest conditions I can imagine, and excelled.


and a *Link* to hundreds of other users comments. Along with my personal experience and the experience of more than a few warfighter's who have opted to take Gunzilla with them into harms way. With enough to supply their own teams with it. After they had tested samples I had given them. A little research will reveal there are in fact many experienced Active Combat Military, LEO, Contractors and Qualified Trainers who endorse Gunzilla. Not all CLP are the same.


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## readytogo

For cleaning,have been using kerosene for years now.For lubricant,and I hope they still use it
US Army "Bio-Arctic™ Firearm Lubricant,all weather type.
http://www.renewablelube.com/TDS/4F-Bio-Arctic Firearm Lubricant.pdf


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## LongRider

readytogo said:


> For cleaning,have been using kerosene for years now.For lubricant,and I hope they still use it
> US Army "Bio-Arctic™ Firearm Lubricant,all weather type.
> http://www.renewablelube.com/TDS/4F-Bio-Arctic Firearm Lubricant.pdf


Interesting product. You may want to try Gunzilla. It is also a non toxic biodegradable plant based product. That also works in extreme high temperatures as well as extreme cold. From their main page.


> Soldiers reported Gunzilla reduced total weapon malfunctions by 75%. Many soldiers have reported no weapon malfunctions since they started using Gunzilla and it is considered a life saving product. Law enforcement is also reporting similar improvements in weapon reliability when they go for re-qualification using only Gunzilla. We also have gunsmiths reporting guns which were once thought to have mechanical problems performed flawlessly after using Gunzilla.
> 
> Gunzilla is quickly becoming the preferred solution for cleaning, lubricating and protecting a gun. Many police departments, government agencies and sportsmen are disposing of their hazardous cleaning solvents and replacing them with Gunzilla
> 
> 
> Gunzilla contains no hazardous chemicals, is non flammable, and non-corrosive.
> Gunzilla removes carbon, copper, lead, rust, plastic fouling and cleans corrosive ammo.
> Gunzilla cleans carbon faster than traditional cleaners because it breaks the bond of the carbon molecules.
> Gunzilla does not evaporate.
> Gunzilla leaves a thin, slippery coating for lubrication and protection which reduces the collection of sand, dust and carbon when the gun is fired.
> Gunzilla has a natural smell (plants) and it can be used in the home without driving everyone else out of the house.
> Gunzilla removes old oils and previously applied cleaning solvents when cleaning.
> Gunzilla leaves a coating that once it is wiped dry is not effected by cold or hot temperatures. In the liquid form Gunzilla turns into a light grease.
> Gunzilla protects and displaces water on metal surfaces.
> Gunzilla is a superior lubricant and many shooters are now using it for reloading.
> Gunzilla increases the number of rounds between cleanings.
> Gunzilla can be used on shotguns, rifles, handguns, automatic guns and muzzleloaders.
> Gunzilla eliminates the need to use water for cleaning and oil for protecting when used on a muzzleloader
> Gunzilla is very effective in cleaning shotgun choke tubes, stainless steel guns, and the AR-15 bolt area.
> Gunzilla is a superior protector because it removes the surface rust prior to the final coating.
> Gunzilla has No hazardous chemical charges for disposing of empty bottles or used patches in landfills.
> Gunzilla is the new gold standard for gun care and we are proving it daily as more and more customers try our product.


Regarding shelf live in 2009 I bought a gallon of it. It has been stored exposed to the extremes of high and low temperatures where I live. With no change in appearance or performance. The problem with having bought this large of a quantity is that the more I use it the less I need.


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## northstarprepper

Thanks for the info. I will try the Gunzilla.


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## LongRider

Friknnewguy said:


> You sold me , I'll try it .





northstarprepper said:


> Thanks for the info. I will try the Gunzilla.


Looking forward to both your gentlemens opinions reviews



drgnhntr37 said:


> Thanks to both for the source. Will order some to try soon.
> 
> Next question anyone tried the Lucas gun oil, my dw brought me a bottle from her work. It's I'd red colored and I assume it is synthetic like all there products. I have not used it yet because I also have been a rem oil fan.


Remember that if you use Gunzilla you do not need to use any other lubricant. Gunzilla is a cleaner lubricant and protectant. To be honest after I tried it I loved how it cleaned but was reluctant to run my guns with what was left dry on gun my after cleaning it. But as I was out to prove that their product was crap or at least could not live up to its claims. I cleaned my guns wiped them down, I did add a couple of drops on the rails that I left on wet. First I fired a round and broke the gun down looking for wear, saw none. Fired a couple more rounds broke the gun down looking for wear, saw none. Fired a mag of 13 rounds broke the gun down looking for wear, saw none. Than I ran a few mags through, tried to run the gun hot just throwing rounds down range as fast as I could. The gun seemed to run smoother cooler than ever before. Since then I clean and wipe down with Gunzilla and I am done, I still add a couple of drops on the rails mostly to make myself feel better.
Also I have since been told that if you clean your gun with Gunzilla and add another lubricant the Gunzilla will break down your lubricant so it will not work as it should. Better to run your gun dry with just the Gunzilla. It is becaue Gunzilla is a dry non ionic lubricant kinda like teflon, dirt, carbon, lint and grit does not stick to it like oil, grease lubricants do. I know guys in Iraq who used to carry a quart of motor oil they would pour into their guns to flush out all the talc like sand that would gum up the gun. Using Gunzilla they don't need to do that anymore.


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## readytogo

LongRider said:


> Interesting product. You may want to try Gunzilla. It is also a non toxic biodegradable plant based product. That also works in extreme high temperatures as well as extreme cold. From their main page.
> 
> Regarding shelf live in 2009 I bought a gallon of it. It has been stored exposed to the extremes of high and low temperatures where I live. With no change in appearance or performance. The problem with having bought this large of a quantity is that the more I use it the less I need.


Thank you LongRider,correct, that is a great product,I have been using my left over usgi supplies now from 1974,have never had any problems,I find that one of the main problems with a weapon is dirt/sand,acts like sandpaper,in field we kept our weapons with light oil in order to keep the dirt away,and yet the m-16 platform weapons tends to work better with a heavier oil/grease on dirty environments,but to be honest I have also used Vaseline.


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## LongRider

readytogo said:


> Thank you LongRider,correct, that is a great product,I have been using my left over usgi supplies now from 1974,have never had any problems,I find that one of the main problems with a weapon is dirt/sand,acts like sandpaper,in field we kept our weapons with light oil in order to keep the dirt away,and yet the m-16 platform weapons tends to work better with a heavier oil/grease on dirty environments,but to be honest I have also used Vaseline.


Another reason to try Gunzilla no grease need be applied. See my last post before this one, above. No grease no oil means there is nothing to attract crap. Gunzilla is a dry lubricant. Being non ionic (really don't know what that means ) the crap & muck, sand, dirt et all and carbon does not stick. Was the major praise I heard from the guys in the sandbox


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## BobR1

*Lucas Gun Oil*

One of the Trainers who uses our Range, knows someone who works for Lucas. Per him Lucas Gun Oil is a 50/50 Blend of Dextron ATF and Light weight Synthetic Motor Oil.

I have bought several bottles of Lucas Gun Oil and used it. I also have refilled the bottles with my Home Brew 50/50 Dextron III or IV and the lightest synthetic motor oil I can find. I can tell ZERO difference. Both work fine as a light weight synthetic gun oil.

I use Lucas or my home brew version on everything I would normally use a gun oil on.

The first Lucas Formula I got had Graphite in it. I have quit graphite after the first batch, as it is supposed to be hard on aluminum. I have not bought any Lucas that had graphite settled out in the bottom, so that is not in the current gun oil, if it ever was used by Lucas.

I like Lucas as an all purpose light weight Synthetic Gun Oil.

I keep a Big Bottle in the shop. I lube up my Hi Lift Jack, Door Hinges, and all kinds of things that need some lubricating oil around the farm.

As I said above the Ed's Red and Lucas Formula are not the best products for every application. I use lots of Ed's Red for general cleaning. Hose down a rag and start wiping off the crud. Dab a Q Tip in some for tight places. It is OK as a bore cleaner, but better products can be found. 
The BIG PLUS with Ed's Red is for Under $20 you have 3/4 Gallon of general purpose gun cleaning solvent, that you do not have to use sparingly.

Lucas works great as an all purpose light gun oil. The home brew version for $10 you have 1/2 Gallon. It will work for gun oil as well as lubing up whatever on the farm. Again with a 1/2 gallon batch you do not need to be stingy with it.

Again other products are better for specalized applications. Most of the specalty lubricants are also expensive.

I will continue to use Lucas or the home brew version as well as Ed's Red for a good percentage of my cleaning and lubrication needs. The ability to mix up large batches at a reasonable cost, and the fact that they are good products for most applications the average prepper will need a cleaner and lubricant for makes them worth while to have around.

I hope I never need to keep a 240 running in the Artic, or the desert sands either for that matter. My revolvers, MK III Ruger, 10-22, 870, 700 Remington, etc work fine on the above home brew products.

Just My 2 Cents.

Bob


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## d_saum

BobR1 said:


> One of the Trainers who uses our Range, knows someone who works for Lucas. Per him Lucas Gun Oil is a 50/50 Blend of Dextron ATF and Light weight Synthetic Motor Oil.
> 
> I have bought several bottles of Lucas Gun Oil and used it. I also have refilled the bottles with my Home Brew 50/50 Dextron III or IV and the lightest synthetic motor oil I can find. I can tell ZERO difference. Both work fine as a light weight synthetic gun oil.


Good to know! I think I'll mix up a batch of this for "Just in Case"! Thanks!:beercheer:


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## worldengineer

I know this thread is a little old but thought this was the best place to ask.

Does Hoppe's #9 remove corrosive compunds from barrels? If not then what gun cleaning products do.


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## hiwall

> If not then what gun cleaning products do.


Water does.


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## LincTex

worldengineer said:


> Does Hoppe's #9 remove corrosive compunds from barrels? If not then what gun cleaning products do.


Lots of folks just buy cheap generic Windex. And like hiwall says... water.


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## HamiltonFelix

The traditional cleaners for copper fouling have a high ammonia content. I view them as more specialized than general CLP products. 

I am thinking of giving FrogLube a try. Curious, I guess.


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## Mr_Practical

I like Gunslick Foaming Bore Cleaner for copper fouling. It turns blue when there is dissolved copper present. I've also had a good experience with Sweet's 7.62 Copper Remover. The Sweet's 7.62 is pretty strong stuff and you need to run an oiled patch after.

However, in a SHTF scenario I'd be fine using used motor oil for my glocks and Mobil 1 ball bearing grease for my Ak47. I use mostly M-Pro7 for cleaning and oiling. Except for my Ak47. I clean it with the M-Pro7 but already use the ball bearing grease on contact parts. Only the barrel and muzzle threads get oiled.


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## artilleryman

Good ol army CLP good for everything


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## OleSarge

The frog lube works well mostly. It works best if you heat up the firearm with a hair dryer or heat gun for it to soak into the pores of the metal. Also it does lose some of its slickness in extreme cold till you fire a few rounds to heat up the gun. In the cold the frog lube will leave a white film when the metal shrinks but does go away when firing starts and everything warms back up. This is what I have learned about frog lube from use.


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