# What about Axes



## SierraM37 (Nov 2, 2008)

I've not seen much talk about axes or hatchets as part of a BOB or kit, be it mobile or pedestrian. I am thinking an axe, mid length, would be mighty handy to have. Steel shank, not wood. Granted, is the weight worth it on foot. I need one for my jeep adventures anyway and wanted to see what folks here would recommend.


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## md1911 (Feb 9, 2012)

I use a tommahawk it will cut wood as well as a good weapon


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## VUnder (Sep 1, 2011)

I have roamed the woods many a day and many a way. Really, to me, the axe is the best thing to have, in the woods. If I was needing to hack through jungle, I may think different. You look at the sled dog mushers in the northern wilderness. They do not leave without an axe. A "camp axe", or a "boys axe" is a good size. A hatchet will do in a pinch, but a large survival knife will keep up with a hatchet. 

On foot, every ounce makes a difference. I would probably make sure axes were at my BOL, but I don't think I would tote one all day. No fold up shovels either. If I need to cut something, a large knife will do. If I need to dig, I will make a shsrp stick and use my dinner pan to dig the dirt.


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## Tirediron (Jul 12, 2010)

Fiskars make nice "unbreakable" axes they are far lighter than most other stuff, I agree an axe is as important as a knife in the bush and well worth the weight.


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## VUnder (Sep 1, 2011)

Tirediron said:


> Fiskars make nice "unbreakable" axes they are far lighter than most other stuff, I agree an axe is as important as a knife in the bush and well worth the weight.


I have seen those, and I wonder what their steel is? If it is like their scissor steel, it is some tough stuff. I have always wondered how the handle is attatched to the blade? Is it like a true tomahawk, with a groove around the blade and the plastic molded down into it?


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## Tirediron (Jul 12, 2010)

I think it is cast as part of the head, it is a hollow tubular handle, and they are tough, We hand split about 10 cords of big knotty spruce and pine each year, a "normal spliting wedge only lives about a year befor it needs work, the fiskars should last many time longer. they also transfer WAY more of your enery into the split because of almost all of the weigh being at the head. the down side is if you break one it is broke for good.


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## mosquitomountainman (Jan 25, 2010)

VUnder said:


> I have roamed the woods many a day and many a way. Really, to me, the axe is the best thing to have, in the woods. If I was needing to hack through jungle, I may think different. You look at the sled dog mushers in the northern wilderness. They do not leave without an axe. A "camp axe", or a "boys axe" is a good size. A hatchet will do in a pinch, but a large survival knife will keep up with a hatchet.
> 
> On foot, every ounce makes a difference. I would probably make sure axes were at my BOL, but I don't think I would tote one all day. No fold up shovels either. If I need to cut something, a large knife will do. If I need to dig, I will make a shsrp stick and use my dinner pan to dig the dirt.


Couldn't have said it better myself (except I'd rather have a hatchet than a large knife!). I like the long handled camper's axe from Estwing.


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## Magus (Dec 1, 2008)

I prefer my kukuri to a hatchet.


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## JustCliff (May 21, 2011)

All 4 of us have the Estwing camp axe and hatchet. Very good tools.


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## SierraM37 (Nov 2, 2008)

I was looking at the Estwings at home depot. Looked sturdy and they had two sizes. I think 26" and 19" or thereabouts. Might get one of each but want to see what others might be recommended here and then going shopping.


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## geoffreys7 (Jan 11, 2011)

Im wondering if anyone makes a large hatchet/axe where you could change the handles on the same head to convert it from an axe to a hatchet??


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## katfish (Jan 11, 2010)

I'm very pro axe or hatchet. I usually have one under the back seat of the truck and that light weight tomahawk my wife got me for my birthday goes to the woods with me about every time. I like the wooden handles myself. Walking around antique stores I've noticed I see quite a few old axes with home made handles. They may not be as pretty or ergonomic as factory handles but I like knowing I can make my own replacement if I needed too


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## mosquitomountainman (Jan 25, 2010)

SierraM37 said:


> I was looking at the Estwings at home depot. Looked sturdy and they had two sizes. I think 26" and 19" or thereabouts. Might get one of each but want to see what others might be recommended here and then going shopping.


I like the longer handle. The other size is too short for an axe and too long for a hatchet.

Steve


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## forluvofsmoke (Jan 27, 2012)

If you do choose a full length axe or maul (even for shorter versions, now that I think about it), I would recommend those with plastic-over-fiberglass core handles. I have an 8lb maul (hammer-head with axe, can be driven with sledge like a wedge if it sticks in wood) for splitting, and a 4lb single-face axe. The maul was purchased in 1988, and I've sharpened the axe-head a few dozen times and re-surfaced the hammer-head a few times. I can't count how many times that maul has deflected violently from striking a knot...hard enough to make me glad for gloved hands, because the shock was quite severe...maul is still kicking hard after all these years and the handle seems impervious to the rigors of occasional abuse...never worked loose to this day. The axe is only a couple years old, but is yielding the same rugged, indestructible qualities, so far. I doubt that a flying or dropped axe with a fiberglass handle would result in a broken handle, as is almost a guarantee with wood.

Growing up on a farm, we had a hickory-handled double-faced axe and that was a never-ending chore to be sure the handle wedges were buried tightly, and/or adding wedges, so the handle wouldn't work out of the head...I have the same problem with wood handled double-face hammers, framing hammers and sledges.

Just saying, wood handles aren't as reliable for long-term in many applications, at least without taking extra measures to assure you (or a by-stander) don't get a face full of iron. The fiberglass cores seem to be maintenance-free, and aren't damaged by being left out in the weather...though you may have rusty heads to polish.

Bug-out or bug-in, my fiberglass will be here for me.


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## VUnder (Sep 1, 2011)

SierraM37 said:


> I was looking at the Estwings at home depot. Looked sturdy and they had two sizes. I think 26" and 19" or thereabouts. Might get one of each but want to see what others might be recommended here and then going shopping.


I have a high opinion of Estwing tools. Their steel is excellent. I come from a house building background, and I have beat the claws of their hammers into a groove and stomped the handle several times with my foot to pry something apart. Their axes are made out of the same steel. I have the larger axe myself, and treat it with reverence, as a high quality tool. Remember the flood at Albert Pike, that made national news? I found a small Estwing hatchet stuck in a tree in the woods there, many years ago. Albert Pike is not far from here. I did find an old Hudson's Bay hatchet that I had put on a shelf in the shop, kinda re discovered it today.


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## Jezcruzen (Oct 21, 2008)

I have one of the Fiskers medium sized axes. Before I bought it I had looked at some of the other well known brands, but was disappointed to see most were made in...... China. At least the Fiskers is forged in Finland. I imagine it is darn near unbreakable! Takes a great edge and sharpens easily. It small enough for your vehicle, but may be a bit large for humping in the woods with it. Besides, the "sheath" (if you want to call it that) is some plastic arrangement with a carry handle. Kinda sucks, actually.

I have a Weterlings small hunter's axe as well. The head is about hatchet sized, but with a longer hickory handle. Just right for trekking off into the wilderness with. It, too, is hand forged, and is of very high quality.


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## kyhoti (Nov 16, 2008)

I had one of the Gerber "camp axes", which to me was really a hatchet. It served me well for over a decade, splitting wood for dozens of camp-fires and some duty as a fine-tuner to get wood ready for the stove. The only damage it took was if I let it be used in the communal woodpile, or if someone else was on fire duty. Used properly, it barely showed any wear. Some lucky fool now has it after it got left in N.Georgia. i almost shed a tear over that. Now I have a Marble's tool, as yet untested. We shall see.


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## Fn/Form (Nov 6, 2008)

IAWoodsman's youtube video review of the Cold Steel Trail Hawk was pretty informative.

I like a pack axe much more than large knives or saws. Much more efficient use of the weight and versatile. And the Cold Steel would be a lot cheaper to lose than a Granfors Bruks... and cheaper to have multiples.


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## Claymore5150 (Nov 17, 2011)

A full set of Pioneer tools should be in your jeep, regardless of your BOB/GHB/GOOD gear, if you plan on going off roading.

For BOB/GHB/GOOD bags, it's all personal preference. I carry a 'hawk and sierra folding saw with my GHB, a machete AND the 'hawk/sierra saw with my Go-Gear.

I personally like a full sized axe with wooden handle because of easy replacement for any chopping duties around the house.


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## sailaway (Mar 12, 2009)

md1911 said:


> I use a tommahawk it will cut wood as well as a good weapon


Hey MD, What kind of hawk do you recomend for throwing, I look at them @ the Log Cabin Store, They have several types. Dixie Gun Works also sells them. Any recomendations?

I seem to pick up axes & hatchets at sales and have several full length, 3/4 length and hatchets.

Don't forget a couple of 9" mill files for keeping them sharpened.:wave:


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## md1911 (Feb 9, 2012)

sailaway said:


> Hey MD, What kind of hawk do you recomend for throwing, I look at them @ the Log Cabin Store, They have several types. Dixie Gun Works also sells them. Any recomendations?
> 
> I seem to pick up axes & hatchets at sales and have several full length, 3/4 length and hatchets.
> 
> Don't forget a couple of 9" mill files for keeping them sharpened.:wave:


There's a lot of throwing hawks out their. I can't comment on all of them. However my. Brother has a cold steel tactical hawk. Its nice and throws well. I personelly prefer the french style pre 1840 wood handle hawk. I've thrown and owned a lot of different hawks. If you look at my avatr I stuck my frenc hawk in the handle of my sons english style hawk. I. Thew it at a distance of 19 feet.


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## md1911 (Feb 9, 2012)




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## DKRinAK (Nov 21, 2011)

*Not a fan of axes*

A hand (or pocket) chain saw, the kind found rolled up in a can - weigh less and are much safer than an axe. The saw is much faster for the usual novice axe wielder. Even a classic Swiss saw has a weight advantage.

In a disaster situation, where medical help may be some time or distance away - a hand powered (chain) saw is far less likely to provoke an injury. In any case, a good first aid kit should be at hand just in case.

Motor driven chain saws still have a place, but if out and alone or walking - the weight difference is telling.

YMMV.


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## Jezcruzen (Oct 21, 2008)

If I posted this previously, please excuse my short memory, but here is a hawk I re-vamped from one of CS's "pipe" style tomahawks. I redid several for friends after starting with one of the "Trail Hawks".

I strip the paint from the head, then either give it a patina or brown it once the file work is done.

I flame the handle then stain it. Comes out looking better than the "issue" hawk from CS, I think.


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## Jezcruzen (Oct 21, 2008)

Here's a "before and after" photo.


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## Jezcruzen (Oct 21, 2008)

Here's one I did for a friend who lost a son in Iraq. (I know I've posted this one before on another thread) I finished it off with an eagle feather and talon (not shown).


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## Norse (Jan 30, 2010)

If you are on foot, a good machete will trump in versatility, compared to an axe. Mind you, most people do not need an axe if traveling to a bug out position.

A machete is way lighter, and as far as firewood, it will not be like you will be splitting massive logs for wood in a temporary camp. A machete is way less fatiguing to swing too. 

If you are going to need an axe, best to bury a couple in the area around where you will be frequenting.


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## md1911 (Feb 9, 2012)

Jezcruzen said:


> Here's a "before and after" photo.


Nice looking hawk but does it fly well and stick consistantly.


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## Jezcruzen (Oct 21, 2008)

md1911 said:


> Nice looking hawk but does it fly well and stick consistantly.


Never threw one. I think I may have re-done four or five of them and gave them away to friends. I suspect the paracord wrapping on the handle would affect flight... I don't know, as would the fake pipe bowl or pall.

I do have a head that I purchased from Dixie Gun Works many years ago that would be a great thrower. I think it was their "Shawnee" model. I need a handle, however.

If you have ever watch "Duel Survivor", that guy Dave runs an outfit called the Pathfinder School. He markets a very nice 'hawk hand forged here in the US. His website has a video of it being thrown. Pricey, however, at @ $100.


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## md1911 (Feb 9, 2012)

You can pick a good common throwing hawk from crazycrow website. Their not fancy and deffenantly not any were as good looking as what you make. However I use mine as a tool. It is. Hand forged. High carbon steel. It has. A flat face on the back for hammering . It throws well. It cuts wood can be used as a wedge or split small wood. Oh and it is razor sharp and very deadly in the right hands.


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## headhunter (Nov 21, 2008)

With an axe there is always a trade off- portability vs weight and size.. If there is a lot of splitting to do a splitting maul is wonderful and so are steel wedges and a maul. A full axe (3 1/2 lb head) is and full length handle is super. Have you gone to a museum and looked at the axes the pioneers used for work? They are as far from "hawks" as you can get. Not looking for an argument- "hawks " are for making war. Axes are for work. A hatchet carries well,but how many times have you seen someone try to use two hands on a hatchet?? They seem to be a bunch of really frustrated people. Having a head weighing about 1 pound less than a full axe is the youth axe, three-quarters axe, or Hudson Bay axe. The handles are long enough to use two hands on and yet light enough to use with one hand. They are large enough to get your shoulders into your swing.
I have used a hatchet on a trip or two ,but if at all possible a three - quarter axe is the way to go along with a saw.
Sit dow and figure out your needs-to He-- with being cool. Cooking and staying semi-warm when it's really cool is not to be taken lightly.
If your axe is solely for splitting, have a steep angle on your sharpening. If your axe will be used for felling a shallow or flat angle is good.


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