# New to me 2N



## UncleJoe

I posted a few pics of my new tractor in the BIT (Bug in tractor) thread but decided to make a separate thread to document the changes.

I have all the sheet metal off and it's all primed except one fender. That should be done by the end of the week. I took the pressure washer to the frame today. Tomorrow it get's the wire wheel and another washing.

Here are a couple pics. One when I brought it home and the other as it sits today.


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## UncleJoe

Here's a couple pics of the progress. The body is done and the panels in the second picture are done. Just need the final coat of paint on the fenders then I'll order the new back rims.


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## Tirediron

Looking good, they are such simple and handy tractors


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## UncleJoe

Tirediron said:


> they are such simple and handy tractors


That's a fact. With even a minimal understanding of mechanics you can do all the work yourself. Forgot to mention; I decided to paint the loader section black.


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## Tirediron

Do you have some spare distributor parts in stock for it, that is kind of oddball if I remember correctly, been years since I worked on 2N. We have an outgrowth of the N , an industrial 4500, with a 3 cyl diesel,


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## UncleJoe

Tirediron said:


> Do you have some spare distributor parts in stock for it, that is kind of oddball if I remember correctly, been years since I worked on 2N.


No distributor but extra points, condenser, rotor and plugs.

Parts are actually readily available. There is a farm equipment store about 15 miles from us. Everything I've needed up to this point they had in stock except that boot that goes around the shift lever. They had to order that from the main store 2 counties over. It was there for me to pick up the next day. They want 2 days notice to have the new rims sent to my store.


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## Tirediron

Do you have spare wire core plug wires, the modern cores seem to break down rather badly with point ignition


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## UncleJoe

Actually, no spare wires at all.  Have to put that on the list along with an alt. belt.


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## Jason

Looking really good!!


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## Franklyn47936

Look is so nice.


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## Meerkat

UncleJoe said:


> I posted a few pics of my new tractor in the BIT (Bug in tractor) thread but decided to make a separate thread to document the changes.
> 
> I have all the sheet metal off and it's all primed except one fender. That should be done by the end of the week. I took the pressure washer to the frame today. Tomorrow it get's the wire wheel and another washing.
> 
> Here are a couple pics. One when I brought it home and the other as it sits today.


 Nice Uncle Joe. It looks just like the 1950 Massy Ferguson hubby had. He was going to fix it up but sold it because he was disabled soon after getting it.

I bet its going to look great once your done,looks like your doing a good job too.

He was riding it across the pasture and our 4 yo niece said " papa that's dust old". He really liked that tractor though. Sold it as is for $1000, man said if it would start he'd buy,the rest is history.


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## LincTex

UncleJoe said:


> Actually, no spare wires at all.


The old solid core spark plug wires can be hard to find. I like the Taylor Spiro-Pro wires, they will last the life of the tractor.

The 2N hydraulic pump is impossible to find in good condition - don't hurt yours!

DO *NOT* use GL-5 gear lube in this tractor. GL-1 or GL-4 to lube the gears. In fact, your machine may not use gear oil now that I think of it - I'm pretty sure it uses straight 30W oil for the transmission. I get Fergusons and Fords tech data mixed up....


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## UncleJoe

LincTex said:


> The old solid core spark plug wires can be hard to find. I like the Taylor Spiro-Pro wires, they will last the life of the tractor.
> 
> The 2N hydraulic pump is impossible to find in good condition - don't hurt yours!
> 
> DO *NOT* use GL-5 gear lube in this tractor. GL-1 or GL-4 to lube the gears. In fact, your machine may not use gear oil now that I think of it - I'm pretty sure it uses straight 30W oil for the transmission. I get Fergusons and Fords tech data mixed up....


Thanks for the tips. 

I haven't even looked at the tranny or rear end fluids yet. I have an industrial wood chipper that uses 15-40 motor oil to run the hydraulic system. That's part of the reason I buy oil by the 55gal drum.

Everything is painted and cured now but I haven't ordered the new wheels yet. Going to put the front end sheet metal back on this week.


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## Tirediron

I don't know it standard / blue streak parts are available in the states, but if they are I can get you wire core plug wire part numbers, I had a bit of trouble finding them too, until we found the kit numbers

The fergy oil crosses to pretty close to sae 15w40, and I would think the ford would be similar, the trans/diff/hyd are common.


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## Meerkat

LincTex said:


> The old solid core spark plug wires can be hard to find. I like the Taylor Spiro-Pro wires, they will last the life of the tractor.
> 
> The 2N hydraulic pump is impossible to find in good condition - don't hurt yours!
> 
> DO *NOT* use GL-5 gear lube in this tractor. GL-1 or GL-4 to lube the gears. In fact, your machine may not use gear oil now that I think of it - I'm pretty sure it uses straight 30W oil for the transmission. I get Fergusons and Fords tech data mixed up....


 We used After Market Marine out of Louisiana for parts for a 4cy.enline engine. That was about 15 yr.s ago, but they had most older parts. Not sure if they are still open though. Good prices too.

1-800-769-7698. I googled it its still there.


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## OHprepper

I don't mean to hijack your thread but I was happy to see someone else having fun with an old ford! Dad and I have been refurbing another 8N the last few weeks.

































These are actually a few days old. We have finished stripping the hood and fenders now. We had to buy surprisingly few parts. Just some grommets and new front tires(too expensive). Post some pictures of yours! I recently saw a 2N on EBAY for 99 bucks. It doesn't run. But I bet I can make it......


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## OldCootHillbilly

Nice ride UJ! Love them little tractors. Round here the price be absolutely crazy cause all the hobby farmers buy em up an will pay whatever ta get one. Ya might find solid core wire at the speed shop. Some the racin fellers still use it I thin.


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## Tirediron

www.stienertractor.com has a pile of parts for anything old.


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## UncleJoe

OHprepper said:


> I don't mean to hijack your thread but I was happy to see someone else having fun with an old ford! Dad and I have been refurbing another 8N the last few weeks. These are actually a few days old. We have finished stripping the hood and fenders now. We had to buy surprisingly few parts. Just some grommets and new front tires(too expensive). Post some pictures of yours! I recently saw a 2N on EBAY for 99 bucks. It doesn't run. But I bet I can make it......


I didn't strip mine apart near as far as you did. I just took the sheet metal off, striped it and repainted. I wasn't going for a restoration. Just wanted to pretty it up a bit.

I put it back together today; well mostly. I hooked up the fuel line then went to put the sediment bowl on and realized the gasket was missing. Don't know where it went so I'll have to get a new one Monday. Still didn't get the new wheels. I've been pumping up the one rear tire every couple weeks just to keep it from getting all smashed on the bottom. This morning when I did it, I thought I heard some of the rusted out wheel cracking. Sure enough, when I got it up to about 25lbs the tube started breaking through the wheel at the valve stem.  Looks like some kind of tumor.


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## UncleJoe

But here is what the tractor itself is looking like now.


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## OldCootHillbilly

Lookin might perty UJ!

Maybe a couplea tubes a JBWeld on that there wheel?


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## UncleJoe

OldCootHillbilly said:


> Maybe a couplea tubes a JBWeld on that there wheel?


:hmmm: That _would_ save me $110 on a new wheel! :rofl:


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## Jason

You've done well, Joe. It looks great. The rim thing is a bugger, though. The calcium solution they use for weight is a real steel killer.

I can't wait to see it all done...and I'm sure you're in the same boat.


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## LincTex

UncleJoe said:


> :hmmm: That _would_ save me $110 on a new wheel! :rofl:


Have you looked into getting a good used one?


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## ZoomZoom

For rims, you may want to check with this guy.
He has 55 acres of old tractor parts.
http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14544


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## UncleJoe

ZoomZoom said:


> For rims, you may want to check with this guy.
> He has 55 acres of old tractor parts.
> http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14544


Thanks but I think shipping a wheel that size from Indiana to Pa. might negate any cost savings. I may look into the used market though.


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## LincTex

UncleJoe said:


> Thanks but I think shipping a wheel that size from Indiana to Pa. might negate any cost savings. I may look into the used market though.


In Texas, you can get any nearly tractor part you need off of Craigslist. by the same token, If a similar tractor is up for sale, the seller usually knows where to get parts.

Note: a lot of the tractor guys with good parts for cheap are not on the internet much. You have to ask around to find them. Use eBay and Craigslist to find out who the local tractor buying/selling guys are, and where they get their parts from. Even contacting the sellers of similar tractors will yield a "rolodex" of info of where they have been getting their stuff from.


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## LincTex

http://www.farmnetservices.com/salv...IPMENT_SALVAGE_&_USED_TRACTOR_PARTS/38-0.html

http://www.samstractor.com/salvage.html

PA Marshall's Farm machinery Honesdale, PA Specialize in AC, have IH, JD, Oliver, and others.

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PA Charlie Burgh's Harmony (Zelienople) 412-452-6880

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PA Rice Equipment Clarion, PA 814-226-9200

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PA Wenger's Farm Machinery Inc. 814 S. College Myerstown 17067 1-800-451-5240

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PA Wengers Farm Machinery 251 South race St., Myerstown 17067 717-866-2130 days, 717-866-7147 nights

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PA Zimmerman Oliver-Cletrac 1450 Diamond Station Rd. Ephrata 17522 717-738-2573


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## Tirediron

What are the chances of finding a good used rim that is at least 66 years old, and then it would still cost at least $50.00 wouldn't it ? Personally I would just suck it up and buy a new one. And use some form of antifreeze for wheel weight if necessary or just cast some concrete bolt on weights. Depends on your cash on hand though I guess


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## LincTex

Tirediron said:


> What are the chances of finding a good used rim that is at least 66 years old, and then it would still cost at least $50.00 wouldn't it?


It all depends on the market. 
8N's are very common around here (running tractors are often had for less than $800) so a rim is easy to find (is it the same as 2N?).

I have several really nice Farmall C rims I would let go for $50 a piece.

The new rims are usually made in China, aren't they? If that's the case, I would rather go with a good quality rim that is original, than an inferior made Chinese one that is shiny. I have had some bad expediences with various Chinese things of this sort lately.


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## Tirediron

way different market, N s are usually listed for $ 2000.00 or better here, not bad for a side distributor 8N or NAA. 
Most tractors here had loaded tires so finding a good rim is a bit of a challenge.


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## LincTex

Tirediron said:


> way different market, N s are usually listed for $ 2000.00 or better here,


It's because there are so many here, a VERY common machine.

Most have never had fluid in the tires due to mesquite thorns.


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## UncleJoe

LincTex said:


> It all depends on the market.
> 8N's are very common around here (running tractors are often had for less than $800) so a rim is easy to find (is it the same as 2N?).
> 
> I have several really nice Farmall C rims I would let go for $50 a piece.
> 
> The new rims are usually made in China, aren't they? If that's the case, I would rather go with a good quality rim that is original, than an inferior made Chinese one that is shiny. I have had some bad expediences with various Chinese things of this sort lately.


9N, 2N and 8N are basically the same.

9N produced from 1939 through 1941

2N from 1942 through 1947

8N from 1948 through ?1958?

8N's put the distributor on the side of the block instead of the front; much easier to tune up.

I think I may look at a used rim after all. The new ones come painted white and I want them gray to match the rest of the machine.


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## Tirediron

found an interesting link 
http://www.ntractorclub.com/

Not all 8n s had the side mounted distributor, There is one here in lien of when you get time projects with a front mount distributor, which happens to have a melted coil, gotta spend money to see if it runs or spend time, either way it costs the owner money


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## Grape Ape

The 8N was made from 47 to 54. In 50 the distributor was moved from the front to the side. Makes them a bit easier to get to. I have a 52 and in order to get a set of original fenders made in America I bought a used but in good shape set from a little shop south of Orlando FL. Just happened to be down their working and drove by the place on a sunday. Mad that I was there when they were closed and ended up going back by during the week about 2 months later. My father-in-law and I restored mine a few years ago and it is still running strong.


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## LincTex

Tirediron said:


> Not all 8n s had the side mounted distributor, There is one here in line of "when you get time" projects with a front mount distributor, which happens to have a melted coil,


I never liked that set-up. I would convert it to EDIS-4 crank trigger ignition with coil packs.


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## Tirediron

I don't know why I never thought about a crank trigger coil pack system, even for just test runs, Do you have a simple advance curve plan?? and maybe a schematic??


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## LincTex

Tirediron said:


> I don't know why I never thought about a crank trigger coil pack system, even for just test runs, Do you have a simple advance curve plan?? and maybe a schematic??


Scroll down about halfway:
http://msextra.com/doc/ms3/edis.html


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## LincTex

Sorry about the off topic, Uncle Joe!!

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/2-3l-talk/321412-throw-away-distributor-go-edis4.html

Hmmm.... still searching










I don't think PIP and SAW are needed.

There was a REALLY basic diagram that would work, but I am still looking for it.


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## LincTex

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/lat...006-eec-iv-equiped-edis-8-applications-2.html

"It's actually simpler than I first thought as well. Let me take a quick stab at non-electronic basics of EDIS waste-spark.

The Trigger Wheel has 36 teeth with one removed (36-1), which is 10° per tooth. Using the V8 parts in the previous diagram - the trigger wheel spins on the crank under a sensor. When the sensor detects the missing tooth it resets the EDIS counter and EDIS starts counting teeth and how long it takes them to go by. It now knows the exact crank position (within .16 of 1 degree) and speed. At Tooth X (which happens to be TDC of the previously fired cylinder), EDIS sends a signal (PIP) to the EEC/ECU/Controller asking for timing advance on the next cylinder. It continues counting teeth, and if it never hears a reply, will fire the correct coil at 10° BTDC, which is 8 teeth later. It then repeats the cycle by sending another PIP at the next tooth for the following cylinder, and so on.

However, if it sends a PIP and the ECU is connected and working, the ECU will return a signal (SAW or Spark Advance Word) asking for whatever advance it wants. EDIS calculates where the spark should then happen and fires it accordingly. At TDC of the fired cylinder it PIPs again for the next cylinder, and the process is repeating. There ya go.

Since the coils are 'double-ended', they fire two complimentary cylinders simultaneously - the two that hit TDC at the same time - one for ignition and the other wasted into exhaust gas in the complimentary cylinder. On the next crank rotation the opposite happens for the complimentary cylinder. This is why EDIS only has to track 4 cylinders on a V8 (one crank rotation). If we use 5.0HO/351 firing order as example (13726548), cylinders 1/6, 3/5, 7/4 and 2/8 would be complimentary sister cylinders and connected to the two ends of the same coil accordingly. EDIS doesn't care what crank rotation it's on; it just fires the coils in order and the right cylinders get lit."


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## LincTex

Well.... darn it. I found the site I was looking for.... too bad it's gone

Alternative Performance
http://www.alternativeauto.com/waterbox/wb_archives/edis.html

It showed how to do this REALLY simple-like. I think pins 1 and 43 just get jumpered.... or left open?

This at least explains the pins; http://www.dainst.com/info/edis/edis.html

Maybe it's just easier to go with a crank trigger set-up from MSD.

But I _SWEAR_ I saw a really, really simple "no brains needed to make this work" set-up once.... but the site is gone, looking for duplicate info.


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## Jason

Hey Joe( and others)-I'm not sure how much experience you have with tractors in the snow, but if you don't know-they just sit still and spin. They're horrible. The big lugs on the drive tires beat the snow into ice and you're not going anywhere. Tire chains do make a world of difference.


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## Tirediron

Ag tires are ok in cold snow, where they can dig without creating ice. near freezing and like Jason said they are ice makers, hard construction tires are worse at making ice.


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## UncleJoe

Jason said:


> Hey Joe( and others)-I'm not sure how much experience you have with tractors in the snow, but if you don't know-they just sit still and spin. They're horrible. The big lugs on the drive tires beat the snow into ice and you're not going anywhere. Tire chains do make a world of difference.


I have 2 trucks with plows for the snow.

The first spring project for the tractor will be dragging logs from downed trees in the woods. I'm going to use them and shale for a backstop for the shooting range I have planned. The loader with the forks on it will make it much easier to get those logs stacked up to the 8' height I'm looking for.


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## LincTex

UncleJoe said:


> The loader with the forks on it will make it much easier to get those logs stacked up to the 8' height I'm looking for.


That is the most "forward mounted" loader I have ever seen.... that puts most (nearly all?) of the weight on the front wheels. Considering that, and it doesn't look very heavy - - - I would probably limit it's payload to 500 lbs or less.


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## UncleJoe

That's what I've been told by others. It might be able to lift a round bale of hay but that would be the limit. The logs I have laying in the woods are all pine and are in the 15"- 18" range. If they're too big to lift, they go near the bottom and the lighter ones can go towards the top. I'll just need a couple more to make the desired depth of about 8'.


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## Tirediron

I finally got the solid core plug wire kit part number, standard ignition 3602, the kit is for a 6 cylinder engine, so a 4 cylinder kit is probably 3402, but I think they cost about the same.


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## BillM

*We always*

We always had better traction with the blade on the back of the tractor, pushing snow in reverse.


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## LincTex

UncleJoe said:


> It might be able to lift a round bale of hay but that would be the limit.
> 
> The logs I have laying in the woods are all pine and are in the 15"- 18" range.


Most standard round bales would be too heavy for it, unless it's those new "boutique" mini round bales. Square bales would be fine.

Pine logs? It depends:

http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/calculators/calc.pl


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## UncleJoe

LincTex said:


> Pine logs? It depends:
> 
> http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/calculators/calc.pl


Nice! A new bookmark. Thanks.


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## LincTex

UncleJoe said:


> Nice! A new bookmark. Thanks.


It's the first one I had found that takes into account the taper of the log. All other calculators assume a "straight" log, and I found I had to find an "average" diameter first.


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## Jason

I snagged that too, LincTex. Thank you.


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## LincTex

Let's see some pics of 'er doing some work!


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## Tirediron

tires are an investment, even though it hurts when you make it. I bet those wood chips would make a really good gasifier food


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## OldCootHillbilly

Dang UJ! That sorta hurt! But ya know, now ya ain't gotta worry, ya got new shoes an wheels. The ol girl be good fer alotta dances!


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## Jason

That's a nice looking tractor now. How is it holding up with Summer usage?


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## LincTex

UncleJoe said:


> .... went to turned the switch on, and realized I hadn't shut it off when the gas ran out. I think I burnt the points by having power on....


Is it still 6 volt? or 12 volt now?


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## UncleJoe

It had been converted to 12v before I got it.


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## Jason

That's a bummer. Hope it proves to be an easy fix.


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## LincTex

Did you get it running?

I asked the 6v vs. 12v question because I wanted to know if they added a ballast resistor, like they should have. If not, your coil is fried.

Leaving the switch on should NOT burn up your points, or anything else.


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## Tirediron

If the coil didn't melt you are lucky, it must have a ballast, 6v systems will melt the front mount coil if the ballast gets bypassed. If the points are just a tiny bit open a closed circuit will cause them to arc some times. points are cheap and easy the "better idea" coil not so much.


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