# Caching



## Padre (Oct 7, 2011)

I have been thinking about caching as of late. 

Currently I have caches in three places that I own or have immediate control over. Two at my starting point and one at the end point of my bug out root. These are storage rooms/apartments, I have yet to put anything in the ground though. I am not so concern with the "how" of preparing a cache as the "how" of choosing a spot. I intend to bury a cache on my property, but would really like to bury a few between where I live and where I would like to live if the SHTF. Ideally I would like to bury a cache every 2-3 days walking distance, but I am not going to buy a piece of land or rent out a storage locker every 40miles. I live in a high pop density area and I am very nervous about burying something on someone else's land because of prying eyes and even more so because of the amount of construction that goes on in my area. Any suggestions about how to choose a spot.


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## BillS (May 30, 2011)

To me, one of the biggest problems with caching is the evidence left behind that you buried something. I wouldn't store anything for after it hits the fan in a storage unit or a garage either. People will be going through those looking for food or anything they could trade for food.

If I was going to bury something it would be very close to a pine tree. One where the branches are close to the ground and the place you want to use for burial is covered in pine needles. It would be easy to move the pine needles, bury something, cover it with dirt, and then put pine needles back over the top.


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## Zanazaz (Feb 14, 2012)

I read your post Padre, and I've been thinking alot about placing caches. Well, actually brainstorming, trying to think of solutions to the problems you brought up.

I think the smaller the cache, the easier to "hide/bury" it. Are you familiar with the concpet of the "food torpedo"? The concept was developed by Ted Wright, and you an read about how to make them here... http://theepicenter.com/tow04166.html You an make thm any size you want of course holding onw, two, or three days or more of food. A small one should be easy to hide/bury.

I was thinking it's going to take a bit of scouting along the route to your BOL to find good places to place the tubes. Definitely not on someone's private property, but there should be some good places to place them, without a huge danger of them being discovered.

I'm still thinking, if I come up with any decent ideas I will post them.


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## Magus (Dec 1, 2008)

I cache, but I also camouflage.sometimes that is the better alternative?
Who's going to look through something obviously useless or even nasty?
False walls, hollow books, fake fence posts, and out houses piled full of newspapers round out the image.

Picture this:
Middle of the property, capped steel pipe and bright shiny sign proclaiming raw sewage outlet/biohazzard do not dig here.a pipe wrench and a little sweat later and you are in possession of An assault rifle, 6 mags,300 rounds of ammo, Kevlar, and three days food and med kit. grease your threads.


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## Zanazaz (Feb 14, 2012)

Magus said:


> I cache, but I also camouflage.sometimes that is the better alternative?
> Who's going to look through something obviously useless or even nasty?
> False walls, hollow books, fake fence posts, and out houses piled full of newspapers round out the image.
> 
> ...


All good ideas, and I've been thinking about doing those sorts of things. First I plan on placing some microcaches. A tube or other water-tight container with at least one day of food, and maybe some misc. supplies. These will be within easy walking or biking distance. Buried or well hidden, I will then check on them in a month or so, and see how they've held up.


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## Magus (Dec 1, 2008)

Do yourself a huge favor, invest in a few cans of Benchwood Casey "Sheath"I had a PVC vault containing my beloved M-1A rupture for some reason.when I did thy three year check I poured a pint of water out of the thing.the unsealed ammo and two mags were corroded but the rifle itself was un touched.[the stock was in a plastic bag covered in floor wax.]

I like the fake property line marker/driveway marker to hide small goodies in.4" well casing,bright orange.fake concrete cap on top of a PVC vault.the whack of a big rock and you're in!


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## Zanazaz (Feb 14, 2012)

Magus said:


> Do yourself a huge favor, invest in a few cans of Benchwood Casey "Sheath"I had a PVC vault containing my beloved M-1A rupture for some reason.when I did thy three year check I poured a pint of water out of the thing.the unsealed ammo and two mags were corroded but the rifle itself was un touched.[the stock was in a plastic bag covered in floor wax.]
> 
> I like the fake property line marker/driveway marker to hide small goodies in.4" well casing,bright orange.fake concrete cap on top of a PVC vault.the whack of a big rock and you're in!


Couple of questions. Was the PVC vault with your M1A in it buried vertical or horizontal? ( Yes I know it's pain to dig a deep vertical hole, but maybe that would have prevented the cracking? )

Did you have the ammo and mags in plastic bags?

I hve no immediate plans to cache weapons, but I'll make note of the Benchwood Casey Sheath. Thanks.


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## Magus (Dec 1, 2008)

horizontal.I think the junk car it was under shifted somehow.
No.in some kind of "zip zorb" baggies.obviously they couldn't handle THAT much water.


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## Zanazaz (Feb 14, 2012)

Magus said:


> horizontal.I think the junk car it was under shifted somehow.
> No.in some kind of "zip zorb" baggies.obviously they couldn't handle THAT much water.


Okay, I was just wondering. Better to learn from someone else's mistakes than make my own. Thanks for sharing.

I will post my own experiences as soon as I have something to report.


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## md1911 (Feb 9, 2012)

I have only made one catch so I don't have tons of practical experiance but this is what I did.

I burried the box from a old UPS van. I cut a hole in the top and welded a 24" piece of culvert to it. I welded all the doors shut and made it water tight. 

This is not designed to be a shelter just a catch. It is on 200 acers owned by my brother. No one lives their the intrance is locked and I planted ceder trees over it. You can not see the entance now. 

The inside is 16 ft long and almost 8 feet wide. This gives me a lot of space to store stuff in. I have supplies for 10 people for 1 month stored their. Pluse other things. Food, water, medical supplies, clothing, blankets, weapons, ammo, emergency heat, some extra camping/ survival equipment. Water purifucation supplies. Roap and some trade goods. I do not keep pm's stored here. And I do not keep anything that would kill me to have stolen or destroyed. 

My catch has been in place now for 5 years and so far I hav not had any problems with water or rodents. I do however keep everything inside packaged seperatley. To midiagate any losses that might occur.

I check it onece a year and rotate any stock


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## Magus (Dec 1, 2008)

Sweet idea! got blueprints/pics?


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## md1911 (Feb 9, 2012)

Magus said:


> Sweet idea! got blueprints/pics?


No sorry I could draw the blueprints up and post them if you would like.

I was not aware of anybody else in the world that felt like I did when I made the catch. So no pictures were taken. And now there's not much to photo from the outside. All you would see are trees. Their is no power inside so no lights. If any one is interested ill post a drawing.


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## md1911 (Feb 9, 2012)




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## md1911 (Feb 9, 2012)

I bought the ups truck at a junkyard. The truck had been wrecked. The box was not hurt bad.


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## weedygarden (Apr 27, 2011)

BillS said:


> To me, one of the biggest problems with caching is the evidence left behind that you buried something. I wouldn't store anything for after it hits the fan in a storage unit or a garage either. People will be going through those looking for food or anything they could trade for food.
> 
> If I was going to bury something it would be very close to a pine tree. One where the branches are close to the ground and the place you want to use for burial is covered in pine needles. It would be easy to move the pine needles, bury something, cover it with dirt, and then put pine needles back over the top.


I like the idea of planting under a pine tree where branches are close to the ground and then covering it back up. I have thought that planting something when you are covering up your cache would draw less suspicion to why the soil is disturbed, and could serve as a marker of sorts for your cache.


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## Magus (Dec 1, 2008)

md1911 said:


> I bought the ups truck at a junkyard. The truck had been wrecked. The box was not hurt bad.


Aha!nice design there.add a blower and filter and it'd make a decent shelter!:congrat:


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## md1911 (Feb 9, 2012)

I'm thinking of adding a ventilation system. And a solar powered light. I will have to do some thinking. And I want to keep it low key.


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## Magus (Dec 1, 2008)

A carpet mill vent could be made inside a fake rock easy, they're low and the flap is on a pivot.


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## LongRider (May 8, 2012)

Magus said:


> I had a PVC vault containing my beloved M-1A rupture for some reason.when I did thy three year check I poured a pint of water out of the thing.


My first question would be what kind of PVC did you use. Next would be did you seal the caps on or just use screw on caps? I have had caches down 20 years that were bone dry when I got them. Back in the old days I used to coat all my metal with Cosmoline. The one gun that got rust was one where I got the bright idea to fill the whole pipe with Cosmoline. Rather than coat the gun I stuffed the gun in the pipe than stuffed Cosmoline into it filling it up. Well it left a couple of air pocket that had enough humidity to cause rust spots. Not enough to do real damage but still enough to be disappointing, especially after having to clean all that nasty mess off of here.

My biggest disappointment was going to a wilderness cache after 15 years to find a strip mall, where I had cached some very nice Nam era gear. Some construction worked hit the lotto there. Keep in mind when caching under trees, that trees grow and those roots can be a bugger


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## musketjim (Dec 7, 2011)

Excellent thread. I like the PVC ideas as I'm only looking at several small caches on my property. I will experiment this winter to see how cold affects it, and gradually work on locations. Keep up the good work folks.


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## kejmack (May 17, 2011)

md1911 said:


> I have only made one catch so I don't have tons of practical experiance but this is what I did.
> 
> I burried the box from a old UPS van. I cut a hole in the top and welded a 24" piece of culvert to it. I welded all the doors shut and made it water tight.


MD1911, how do you keep the roof from collapsing under the weight of the dirt?


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## kejmack (May 17, 2011)

I have small caches. I used PVC pipe that is sealed on both ends for a couple of them. They are vertical. I also cached two 5 gallon buckets. I sealed the lids with beads of sealant and removed the handles to leave less of a trace in case someone has a metal detector. 

I won't broadcast it here how I hid them, but you'd never find them if you didn't know where to look.


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## md1911 (Feb 9, 2012)

kejmack said:


> MD1911, how do you keep the roof from collapsing under the weight of the dirt?


I used 3 1/2 angle iron welded to the inside spaced on 16 inch centers. The angle iron also runs down the side. This is all on the inside.

Also I put it in a location were no one would be driving. Then planted ceder trees on the hump of dirt.


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## BillS (May 30, 2011)

The trunk of an old, non-running car would be a good place to hide stuff too. Get yourself an ancient Olds Delta 88 or Chevy Caprice and park it on your rural property. The trunks on those cars are huge and would hold a lot of stuff. I can't imagine anybody bothering to force the trunk open to look inside.


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## Magus (Dec 1, 2008)

I did that self same trick for years! but I also had a backup stash under it.

You been reading stuff and expanding your mind BillS, I'm proud of ya, you'll survive yet! :flower:


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## LongRider (May 8, 2012)

BillS said:


> I can't imagine anybody bothering to force the trunk open to look inside.


I can see you've never lived on the Rez. If there is a need those trunks will get ripped open. Large trunks can and do provide shelter from the elements something those on the run or bugging out may consider as they trek to their imagined BOL or safe hideout


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## teotwaki (Aug 31, 2010)

I've thought about caching too so here are some of the musings;

SoCal is heavily urbanized so anything you bury has to be a complete writeoff if it is ever discovered.

When buried, leave some sort of "disturbance" indicator such as a pair of "X" crossed metal rods or colored plastic sheet. That will warn you of tampering.

Distance between caches should be that of a slow hike but not so far that if one cache is unavailable you could not make it to the next location.

Caches should be off the roads a bit but near something that is unlikely to be redeveloped anytime soon: drainage channels, railroad lines, etc.

Sanitize the cache for fingerprints or other traceable identification. 

Leave a note with the contents that the cache is one of those "hard to find" categories of a GeoCache even though burying a cache is against some groups' rules. Rough up a fake logbook of people that visited the cache.


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## Jimmy24 (Apr 20, 2011)

I have had some caches thru the years. Learned a bit about them too.

4 in and 6 in PVC

I bury mine vertical. But I bury them 3ft deep at the "top" of the pipe. I limit the length to 3' long. Mainly for ease of removal. 

I use a glued on cap on the "up" end and a screw on plug on the bottom end. It's threads are lubed with grease. Since I started doing them that way, no moisture problems.

Ammo, matches, lighters, 100' paracord, socks, canned meat, honey, freeze-dried coffee and 3 freeze dried pack meals.

Jimmy


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## Chevy (Aug 20, 2012)

*Grease*



Magus said:


> Picture this:
> Middle of the property, capped steel pipe and bright shiny sign proclaiming raw sewage outlet/biohazzard do not dig here.a pipe wrench and a little sweat later and you are in possession of An assault rifle, 6 mags,300 rounds of ammo, Kevlar, and three days food and med kit. grease your threads.


Much better would be using Never Seez, Anti Seize, or Coppercoat/Coppercote instead of grease.

Learned about Never Seez 43 years ago when I worked at the GP paper mill in Toledo after I got done serving my 3 years in the service. Pipe fitters and mill wrights used a LOT of it. Some of the pipes would have a 1/4" of rust on them because of all the liquors and acids used in a pulp/paper mill. They would bang them a few times with their 3 lb hammer and then proceed to take them apart as easy as if they were taking it apart the next day after putting it together instead of years later.

Anti Seize is good stuff.

Ken

090512 1849


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## Chevy (Aug 20, 2012)

kejmack said:


> I have small caches. I used PVC pipe that is sealed on both ends for a couple of them. They are vertical. I also cached two 5 gallon buckets. I sealed the lids with beads of sealant and removed the handles to leave less of a trace in case someone has a metal detector.
> 
> I won't broadcast it here how I hid them, but you'd never find them if you didn't know where to look.


Removing the handle is a good idea, but what if you have some metal in container itself?


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## Chevy (Aug 20, 2012)

BillS said:


> The trunk of an old, non-running car would be a good place to hide stuff too. Get yourself an ancient Olds Delta 88 or Chevy Caprice and park it on your rural property. The trunks on those cars are huge and would hold a lot of stuff. I can't imagine anybody bothering to force the trunk open to look inside.





LongRider said:


> I can see you've never lived on the Rez. If there is a need those trunks will get ripped open. Large trunks can and do provide shelter from the elements something those on the run or bugging out may consider as they trek to their imagined BOL or safe hideout


I'll have to agree with LongRider, I can't ever remember seeing an old car out in the boonies that did NOT have the lock knocked out of the trunk, and over the years I have seen my share of them. First question that seems to come to most peoples mind, me and others I know, is "Hummm, I wonder what is in there". If the car had been there anytime at all, the lock was always already knocked in. I never found one with a lock still in it.

Ken

090512 1903


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## teotwaki (Aug 31, 2010)

Chevy said:


> I'll have to agree with LongRider, I can't ever remember seeing an old car out in the boonies that did NOT have the lock knocked out of the trunk, and over the years I have seen my share of them. First question that seems to come to most peoples mind, me and others I know, is "Hummm, I wonder what is in there". If the car had been there anytime at all, the lock was always already knocked in. I never found one with a lock still in it.
> 
> Ken
> 
> 090512 1903


How about getting under the car and cutting open the gas tank to stash properly wrapped things in there? Close the tank up again, spray on some undercoat and throw some dirt on it before it dries.

Chances are that the gas tank is already dried out but there are lots of ways to cut the tank open without danger.


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## floridacracker (Jun 25, 2011)

ever thought of a 4 inch pvc tube with ends sealed with pvc caps, about 18 inches long, will hold about 4 days of rice,beans,cans meat, cans fruit,matches. to open just smash n use, maybe socks, ammo, batteries. easy to bury straight up and down with a post hole digger, 3 foot deep, or maybe even paint them camo, and install in pine trees up in the branches?


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## Chevy (Aug 20, 2012)

floridacracker said:


> ever thought of a 4 inch pvc tube with ends sealed with pvc caps, about 18 inches long, will hold about 4 days of rice,beans,cans meat, cans fruit,matches. to open just smash n use, maybe socks, ammo, batteries. easy to bury straight up and down with a post hole digger, 3 foot deep, or maybe even paint them camo, and install in pine trees up in the branches?


No tools needed, smash and use the contents. I like that. Good idea.


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## LongRider (May 8, 2012)

teotwaki said:


> Chances are that the gas tank is already dried out but there are lots of ways to cut the tank open without danger.


Gas tanks that have been empty for years retain fumes or fuel in the metal pores even a hand tool can cause sparks that result in explosions far worst than a gas tank full of gas. Once saw a Vincent Black Shadow gas tank explode when it was being cut. Luckily no one was hurt badly, except for the tip of a pinky got cut off with shrapnel. When ever we use an old gas tank (mostly motorcycle tanks) we either take it outside stand back and toss matches into it until it goes boom or cut it filled with water.



floridacracker said:


> ever thought of a 4 inch pvc tube with ends sealed with pvc caps, about 18 inches long


I think PVC tubes of varying sizes are the most common container for caches these days.


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## LongRider (May 8, 2012)

teotwaki said:


> I've thought about caching too so here are some of the musings;
> 
> SoCal is heavily urbanized so anything you bury has to be a complete writeoff if it is ever discovered.
> 
> ...





teotwaki said:


> I've thought about caching too so here are some of the musings;


You may want to reconsider your musing. Base it on a reality check, starting with what is a cache for. Whats is its purpose? It is not a storage locker or safe. I laid down my first cache in 1975. The only time I have dug any up is if they needed to be moved.
A) If what you are caching is a write off than don't bother. Instead locate places where they are going to be safe and secure until you retrieve them. Now I have lost caches. Having not checked on them in a decade, in places that I thought were remote and would never be developed turned into strip malls. Some folks scored big on some of those caches. So check them every few years, just a drive by will work, if the area is being developed start digging. You want to actually stand at a cache site as little as possible. Ideally only on the day you put it down and than on the day you need it

B) DO NOT leave any markers, X's or anything. Anything like that will assure someone will look to see what is there. Instead make the ground look undisturbed as if no one has ever been there, so no one has a reason to go looking there.

C) Distance between caches is determined by what you are caching. As an example, if you are caching a weeks worth of food the caches should be 5 or 6 days walk apart.

D) No need to sanitize a cache site of finger prints or the like. It is not a crime scene. As stated previously leave the grounds looking undisturbed so as not to attract any attention



teotwaki said:


> Leave a note with the contents that the cache is one of those "hard to find" categories of a GeoCache even though burying a cache is against some groups' rules. Rough up a fake logbook of people that visited the cache.


Sorry this one lost me completely. Leave a note of the contents? Huh? Why? Is anyone so stupid that they can not look and see what it is they cached? Log book? What log book? Why? A cache is not a storage locker that you are constantly visiting. A cache is intended as a resupply point on the way to your destination. Or where you stash your supplies and equipment to start a homestead at your destination site. You will need and use what is in it or not. Either way you will be done with it once you have passed. Not like you are going to decide oh I need those band aids in cache #4, six days walk back. Log book for what? Why? No one should ever visit a cache until the day it is needed and only one person should know where that cache is. The person who put it there. Other wise you risk discovering the food you cached is gone and you are dead from starvation. Or go ahead and tell your hot girl friend but than do not be surprised to find your MRE laced with rat poison or Ex Lax because you dumped her for being a psycho bitch.


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## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

floridacracker said:


> ever thought of a 4 inch pvc tube about 18 inches long, will hold about 4 days of rice,beans,cans meat, cans fruit,matches. to open just smash n use,


Make sure each items is bagged to prevent the food from spraying everywhere!!! Probably best to "roll it up" and tape it all together into one large "capsule" and slide it inside before sealing.


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## teotwaki (Aug 31, 2010)

LongRider said:


> Gas tanks that have been empty for years retain fumes or fuel in the metal pores even a hand tool can cause sparks that result in explosions far worst than a gas tank full of gas. --SNIP---.


Metal "PORES"??? I'll be charitable and assume you meant something else. The steel used in gas tank does not have "pores". A gas tank that has had the cap left off will not retain gasoline vapors "for years". The reason that gas vapors tend to stay so long is that gasoline fumes are heavier than air and do not easily disperse. The fumes also do not last forever.

As I already stated, there are lots of ways to cut open gas tanks without explosion. For instance, common dry cleaning fluids such as carbon tetrachloride vaporize very easily but are non combustible (unless you have aluminum powder in your gas tank!). The whole problem of exploding gas tanks occurs when most of the volume of the tank is filled with gas fumes. A tank that is full of liquid gasoline is not so easy to explode. Pouring liquid carbon tet into a fume-filled tank will eliminate the oxygen that the gasoline vapors need to ignite. Argon gas and even automobile exhaust fumes work too.

YouTube video:


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## teotwaki (Aug 31, 2010)

LongRider said:


> ----snip----Sorry this one lost me completely. Leave a note of the contents? Huh? Why? Is anyone so stupid that they can not look and see what it is they cached?. -----snip the rest of the off-topic rant---.


You get lost because you attack without thinking and too easily resort to juvenile insults and name calling. The ruse of the log book is to give the appearance of a geocache rather than the paranoid burial of supplies for a Pacific Northwest survival nut or terrorist cell. Why alert any nosy authorities that the accidentally discovered cache is part of a string of caches?? Make them think that it is a forgotten one-off burial for some geocacher who gve the hobby up.


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## teotwaki (Aug 31, 2010)

LongRider said:


> A) If what you are caching is a write off than don't bother. Instead locate places where they are going to be safe and secure until you retrieve them. Now I have lost caches. Having not checked on them in a decade, in places that I thought were remote and would never be developed turned into strip malls. Some folks scored big on some of those caches.


You readily admit that you have lost caches because you chose places that were not safe or secure. Those caches now have zero value to you, the most basic definition of a writeoff. By your own statement you should not have bothered to cache those items yet you still did, knowing that they might be discovered and lost. You want to criticize others for "incorrect" actions that you so freely commit, the very definition of duplicity.


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## LongRider (May 8, 2012)

LincTex said:


> Make sure each items is bagged to prevent the food from spraying everywhere!!! Probably best to "roll it up" and tape it all together into one large "capsule" and slide it inside before sealing.


Vacuum sealing the contents with some desiccant before putting them into your cache tube does not hurt either


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## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

teotwaki said:


> A 52 year old Washington resident was apprehended by police who uncovered his illegally buried caches of supplies in the pristine national forest. ...
> the suspect was readily traced through fingerprints left on his caches.
> 
> The suspect was gathering supplies at an illegal "camp" he'd constructed on Federal land, the detective continued.


So.... other than burying on Federal land and building a structure on Federal land... *Did he do anything ILLEGAL???*


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## NaeKid (Oct 17, 2008)

LongRider said:


> Gas tanks that have been empty for years retain fumes or fuel in the metal pores even a hand tool can cause sparks that result in explosions far worst than a gas tank full of gas. Once saw a Vincent Black Shadow gas tank explode when it was being cut. Luckily no one was hurt badly, except for the tip of a pinky got cut off with shrapnel. When ever we use an old gas tank (mostly motorcycle tanks) we either take it outside stand back and toss matches into it until it goes boom or cut it filled with water.


Damn ... you cut-up a Vincent???


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## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

NaeKid said:


> Damn ... you cut-up a Vincent???


Probably cutting out the rusted bottom to weld in new metal... been there, done that. For something I don't care about (non-restore) I take down to bare metal and smear JB weld over all the pin-holes!


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## teotwaki (Aug 31, 2010)

LincTex said:


> So.... other than burying on Federal land and building a structure on Federal land... *Did he do anything ILLEGAL???*


The danged forests belong to _*We The People *_but the Feds seem to think that they are the only folks qualified to be the stewards...

Anyhow, the "news" article is a parody of recent events and current people. A.K.A. fake.


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## teotwaki (Aug 31, 2010)

*Links about caching*

I am not "endorsing" them but just sharing what I found and that they may have information useful to you. Enjoy!

US Army text on caching from "TC 31-29/A Special Forces Caching Techniques"
http://www.alpharubicon.com/leo/armycach.txt

SSRI.org article on caching as part of preparations
http://www.ssrsi.org/Onsite/cache_techniques_tutorial.htm

Reprint of "METHODS OF LONG TERM UNDERGROUND STORAGE"
http://www.ssrsi.org/Onsite/BBStext/cache.htm

Misc:

http://www.box.net/shared/4ybbg41hvf
http://www.survival-center.com/guide/cache.htm

Videos:


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## hiwall (Jun 15, 2012)

I read in a story about using a plastic pail and bury a second one 6" under the first. If someone digs up the one it is unlikely they will keep digging and find the second.


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## teotwaki (Aug 31, 2010)

hiwall said:


> I read in a story about using a plastic pail and bury a second one 6" under the first. If someone digs up the one it is unlikely they will keep digging and find the second.


That is a good point!


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## LongRider (May 8, 2012)

teotwaki said:


> You get lost because you attack without thinking and too easily resort to juvenile insults and name calling. The ruse of the log book is to give the appearance of a geocache rather than the paranoid burial of supplies for a Pacific Northwest survival nut or terrorist cell. Why alert any nosy authorities that the accidentally discovered cache is part of a string of caches?? Make them think that it is a forgotten one-off burial for some geocacher who gve the hobby up.


There was no intent to attack you nor did I call you any names. Rather as it is apparent from your post that you have zero experience or knowledge about laying down a cache. I thought I would offer some reality based suggestions to help improve your understanding. As I have laid down caches since 1975. I had no idea that my post would be received in such a defensive childish manner. I gave you some credit as simply uninformed. Nothing wrong with that, we are all ignorant of a great many things. I simply tried to share a little bit of what I do know something about, in hopes of helping out. I made assumption that I was talking to a grown man not a simpering sniveling little girl that would have a hissy fit if their clueless infantile self indulgent mental masturbation was not taken as gospel. Maybe I was wrong.



teotwaki said:


> The ruse of the log book is to give the appearance of a geocache rather than the paranoid burial of supplies for a Pacific Northwest survival nut or terrorist cell.


You mean like the lying deceitful phony Pacific Northwest survival nut article you created using distortions of my posts in a pathetic attempt to insult and disparage me?



teotwaki said:


> Why alert any nosy authorities that the accidentally discovered cache is part of a string of caches?? Make them think that it is a forgotten one-off burial for some geocacher who gve the hobby up.


OIC because nosy authorities won't open the cache to actually see what is in it. BRILLIANT, good luck with that. Are you really that clueless? Why not do as I suggested, as the links you posted later suggest and bury the cache in such a way as it not be found in the first place. Without the X's markers and log books that you imagine are such a brilliant idea in your childish musings based on your complete lack of experience or knowledge.



teotwaki said:


> You readily admit that you have lost caches because you chose places that were not safe or secure. Those caches now have zero value to you, the most basic definition of a writeoff. By your own statement you should not have bothered to cache those items yet you still did, knowing that they might be discovered and lost. You want to criticize others for "incorrect" actions that you so freely commit, the very definition of duplicity.


Read what I wrote not what you ASSume I meant. I acknowledged an error on my part so that others could have the opportunity to learn from my mistake. I said in 1973 when I was 17 I buried caches in places I thought would never be developed, only to go back ten years later to discover that area had been developed. As a result I had lost some rather valuable items. So my suggestion was to periodically check your caches. Anyone with an IQ of 2 above a rock could see that was my point, provided they were not being a defensive simpering sniveling little girl making ASSumptions and fabricating a distorted interpretation of what I wrote.

Please do note that at no point did I call you any names other than acknowledge that you posted a lie. At no point did I say you are a simpering sniveling little girl, have an IQ 2 below a rock or any other such thing. However if the shoes fits and you choose to do so please feel free to wear it.


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## LongRider (May 8, 2012)

NaeKid said:


> Damn ... you cut-up a Vincent???


NOT ME. A bro found one rather beat up he restored modded to fit on a bobber he was building. Came out pretty nice actually even after it ka boomed.



LincTex said:


> So.... other than burying on Federal land and building a structure on Federal land... *Did he do anything ILLEGAL???*


The entire post was a bogus lie. The guy went back and read all of my posts to take them out of context so he could fabricate some mean nasty lie. Really how pathetic is that? All that time and energy for what? To tell a lie to insult me? What kind of person does that? You have read enough of my posts to see where he distorted my posts. If not or if he tries telling another lie and deny it. I will go back line by line ( I kept a copy of the post) and show where he took my posts out of context to fabricate his lies. Further expose for what he is. Pretty simple really. Those who tell lies are liars. In my opinion a liar is a person with zero credibility without integrity or honor. I don't trust anything they say. If a known liar tells me the sky is blue I go out to look to be sure hay are not lying.
I see that the mods deleted his post after I pointed it out to them. Thanks to the mods for that by the way. But in all honestly if I were a mod his account would be deleted. In addition to his lies, he revealed how he really perceives survivalists, as some kind of fanatic and terrorists. I don't think that kind of mentality helps this board but that is just me


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## teotwaki (Aug 31, 2010)

LongRider said:


> The entire post was a bogus lie. The guy went back and read all of my posts to take them out of context so he could fabricate some mean nasty lie. Really how pathetic is that? All that time and energy for what? To tell a lie to insult me? What kind of person does that? You have read enough of my posts to see where he distorted my posts. If not or if he tries telling another lie and deny it. I will go back line by line ( I kept a copy of the post) and show where he took my posts out of context to fabricate his lies. Further expose for what he is. Pretty simple really. Those who tell lies are liars. In my opinion a liar is a person with zero credibility without integrity or honor. I don't trust anything they say. If a known liar tells me the sky is blue I go out to look to be sure hay are not lying.
> I see that the mods deleted his post after I pointed it out to them. Thanks to the mods for that by the way. But in all honestly if I were a mod his account would be deleted. In addition to his lies, he revealed how he really perceives survivalists, as some kind of fanatic and terrorists. I don't think that kind of mentality helps this board but that is just me


You frequently post your own angry brew of insults, profane ridicule, distortions, and "bogus" lies all the time. You shouldn't get your Urinary Incontinence Kevlars in a wad.

Mods: This is Longrider's typical family oriented vocabulary on this forum:

*
psycho bitch
dickwad 
Get The F Out Now Or Die
baby killing jackoffs
*Talk that way in front of your family Longrider?

As for the "fanatics and terrorists" *lie* of yours, I helped to create a code of conduct that would be alien to you and your "Get the F Out" bunker mentality. Not that you'd understand it but here is the link for people who have a sense of honor:

http://www.preparedsociety.com/forum/f2/preppers-code-conduct-13368/#post163180

PS: Nobody has to expend any effort to research the L.F.F.F. (Longrider Fantasy Fanatic Farm). You expand the fantasy in every message that you post on every survival related forum known to man.


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## Zanazaz (Feb 14, 2012)

Guys, things have gotten out of hand in this thread. Time to walk away, go to a neutral corner, whatever...

This was a good thread. I would hate to see it locked.

Maybe it's time to go and reread the forum rules? Please?

I believe everyone has something to contribute, and sometimes people's posts can seem abrasive. Trust me, I'm guilty of it as well, but insults? They are never necessary. Ever...

When you feel your emotions start to rise, it's best to take a break, and walk away from the keyboard. Don't post angry. Again, I make the mistake of doing this, but I'm getting better.

This is one of the better forums, if not the best public forum.


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## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

Zanazaz said:


> Guys, things have gotten out of hand in this thread.
> 
> When you feel your emotions start to rise, it's best to take a break, and walk away from the keyboard. Don't post angry. Again, I make the mistake of doing this, but I'm getting better.


Let's go one better.... you guys have said what you have said, there isn't any taking back any of it, but it CAN become water under the bridge. Now that we have all vented, it is a good time for a cooling off period.

Let's go back and edit out *all* the offensive stuff and the "Caching" thread will remain intact, and usable for others.

I only suggest this idea in consideration for the integrity of this forum, and it would be in everyone's best interest to do so.


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