# Working In The Shade,Under A Tree.



## Meerkat (May 31, 2011)

,can lead to some interesting repairs.

My son was here for a few days several weeks ago now.He was helping hubby repair the thermostat on the van.Its our only way to go now and its a 1995.

Long story short,the intake and the housing for the thermostat is now 'different'.The housing broke and the screw on intake came off,had to be drilled out and replaced with self threading screw.Now the housing is JB Welded to the intake wit hthe self threading screw.

Replaced radiator to the tune of $250 counting the antifreeze.Well it ran hot again so after sittign on the side of the road to let it cool off while we sweat we think its the water pump.Is this wishful thinking since we don't have money to replace intake?Not ot speak of when son can come back ands help with labor.Daughters hubby may help put water pump on when they come.Hubby can do the job,its just hes not able to do heavy parts.
Please don't let it be the thermostat!The leak looks like its from the waterpump.Maybe between the two of us we can fix it ,I have been under the bus ya know taking out hundreds of nuts,bolts.


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## deetheivy (Aug 7, 2012)

Meerkat said:


> ,can lead to some interesting repairs.
> 
> My son was here for a few days several weeks ago now.He was helping hubby repair the thermostat on the van.Its our only way to go now and its a 1995.
> 
> ...


I have replaced a few water pumps before. I'm assumming it is a front wheel drive. The side the belts are on, you will want to take the belt/belts off. Next remove timing chain cover. Locate water pump, will be towards the middle, or the bottom.( probably not very bottom as this is usually the oil pump.) Use a haines manual, or other source to be sure you know where it is. Remove bolts, remove old water pump( they aren't heavy)scrape old gasket off, install new gasket, install water pump, tighten to specified tight( we would tighten until it felt right, sorry we are just some good ol boys, never had issues though, as well I'm sure their is a torque pound rating again check the haynes manual, or other source.) reinstall belts, check to see if it worked. Also when you remove the water pump you should be able to tell that it's broken.

You could remove the belts, and then remove the timing chain cover put belts back on and check to see if you have a leak coming from there, not fool proof but I believe it would be the most economical start.


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## Meerkat (May 31, 2011)

deetheivy said:


> I have replaced a few water pumps before. I'm assumming it is a front wheel drive. The side the belts are on, you will want to take the belt/belts off. Next remove timing chain cover. Locate water pump, will be towards the middle, or the bottom.( probably not very bottom as this is usually the oil pump.) Use a haines manual, or other source to be sure you know where it is. Remove bolts, remove old water pump( they aren't heavy)scrape old gasket off, install new gasket, install water pump, tighten to specified tight( we would tighten until it felt right, sorry we are just some good ol boys, never had issues though, as well I'm sure their is a torque pound rating again check the haynes manual, or other source.) reinstall belts, check to see if it worked. Also when you remove the water pump you should be able to tell that it's broken.
> 
> You could remove the belts, and then remove the timing chain cover put belts back on and check to see if you have a leak coming from there, not fool proof but I believe it would be the most economical start.


 Thanks for your reply.But its not the waterpump he has to worry about,its taking the front end off the van to fix it.Its a 351,350 econoline.Hard to get to.He always hated my van,said it was hard to work on.I see his point now.


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## hiwall (Jun 15, 2012)

If you are lucky maybe it is just a radiator hose collapsing. Check radiator hoses to see if they are "soft". Sometimes they squeeze together and don't let the water thru. Often the water pumps will leak when they go bad(not always though). You know about the trick of turning the heater on high to cool the motor(works like a second radiator).


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## Meerkat (May 31, 2011)

hiwall said:


> If you are lucky maybe it is just a radiator hose collapsing. Check radiator hoses to see if they are "soft". Sometimes they squeeze together and don't let the water thru. Often the water pumps will leak when they go bad(not always though). You know about the trick of turning the heater on high to cool the motor(works like a second radiator).


 Its leaking,too bad it did'nt leak when the thing was torn apart for radiator.I told him to change water pump too while he was there,but nooooooooooooooooo.Men can be hard headed and it makes for hardwork at times,but ya gotta love em,because he has kept me ridign most of the time for 35 years now.I just forget that when I'm sittign on the side of the road in a soaking sweat.The heater would have been the last of me,but we have done that before.
:flower:


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## Tirediron (Jul 12, 2010)

it is also possible that the thermatic fan clutch (if equipped) is not locking on, Almost as much grief to change in the van chassis as the water pump.


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## Meerkat (May 31, 2011)

Tirediron said:


> it is also possible that the thermatic fan clutch (if equipped) is not locking on, Almost as much grief to change in the van chassis as the water pump.


We changed the pump,it was a job for us both!!!So far it is ok,we put about 100 miles on it so far.I just hope its not the Fan Clutch or thermastat.Hubbt can't bend much as all or twist so we took the whole front off.I did most of the heavy work.He did body and paint all his life so he did know short cuts and very good with tools.He just can't lie down to work.We took our time and maybe thsi will work,if not vract:


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## Meerkat (May 31, 2011)

Hey GUESS WHAT!It was the dog gone *&*^&(*%^@heat sensor hose all along!

We kept losing water after taking off frontend TWICE.New radiator 'son helped put that one on'which it did ned replacign but it was'nt the problem causing the leak.Also water pump was fine too.

All this money and work for a little 4 in long hose.

Now the @%$*) well is playign tricks,I guess after we finish workjing on that it will be a spark plug.No we know its not a sprak plug but its always something.

Hose did'nt leak until it got hot while driving so we did'nt know it was that.I did mention as did some of you in the begining to go ahead and change all the hoses.He is so good with most things I forgive him him though,haha.


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## zombieresponder (Aug 20, 2012)

Well, at least you shouldn't have to worry about a new radiator or water pump for a while.


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## Meerkat (May 31, 2011)

zombieresponder said:


> Well, at least you shouldn't have to worry about a new radiator or water pump for a while.


 LOL,I sure as heck hope not!:surrender:


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## deetheivy (Aug 7, 2012)

good luck best wishes


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## zombieresponder (Aug 20, 2012)

I had to crawl under the hood of my jeep last night. Had some parts with bad bearings, plus a thermostat that was stuck open. Still need to swap my water pump and change the clutch on the A/C compressor, plus fixing some leaks and figuring out why my front end is aligned within spec and still wearing the driver's side tire funny.


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## pawpaw (Dec 21, 2011)

Check your pitman arm on the steering box for excess play, your idler arm can make it do that, too.


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## Meerkat (May 31, 2011)

zombieresponder said:


> I had to crawl under the hood of my jeep last night. Had some parts with bad bearings, plus a thermostat that was stuck open. Still need to swap my water pump and change the clutch on the A/C compressor, plus fixing some leaks and figuring out why my front end is aligned within spec and still wearing the driver's side tire funny.


 Check and double chesk the easy things first. or you could do like we did :eyebulge: and add lots of extra work and exspense.of course we shoulod'nt need a water pump or raditor for a long time.

Good luck.


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## zombieresponder (Aug 20, 2012)

Meerkat said:


> Check and double chesk the easy things first. or you could do like we did :eyebulge: and add lots of extra work and exspense.of course we shoulod'nt need a water pump or raditor for a long time.
> 
> Good luck.


What I replaced absolutely needed replacing. The bearing in the idler/tensioner pulley was bad, and the bearing in the fan clutch was bad. I still need to figure out whether the A/C clutch bearings are bad or if it's the compressor itself. One(or both) of the two is still making the rattling and squeaking sounds of bad bearings. Fortunately, replacing the other two parts got rid of 90% of the "fingernails on a chalkboard" sound.  My waterpump is dripping from the weep hole, and at approx 180K miles, it's due.


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## Meerkat (May 31, 2011)

zombieresponder said:


> What I replaced absolutely needed replacing. The bearing in the idler/tensioner pulley was bad, and the bearing in the fan clutch was bad. I still need to figure out whether the A/C clutch bearings are bad or if it's the compressor itself. One(or both) of the two is still making the rattling and squeaking sounds of bad bearings. Fortunately, replacing the other two parts got rid of 90% of the "fingernails on a chalkboard" sound.  My waterpump is dripping from the weep hole, and at approx 180K miles, it's due.


 I kid mostly about all this I understand sometimes its hard to find the problem.Now we have a sqeaking belt or pully,so lifes just full of surprise and 'mystery'.


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## zombieresponder (Aug 20, 2012)

Pick up a mechanics stethoscope and use it to isolate the squeaking part. It should have a "probe" on the end that you can hold against a nonmoving portion of the suspect part. You can also use a screwdriver or a piece of wood, but if they happen to get caught in the belt or fan...lookout!


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## Tirediron (Jul 12, 2010)

spray on belt dressing will get rid of belt squeaks. that should just leave pulley bearing(s) if it still squeaks.


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## hiwall (Jun 15, 2012)

You can also spray WD-40 on a bearing. If it stops making noise or the noise changes then the bearing is bad. No the spray won't fix it for more than 5 minutes!


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## MRGUMBY (Nov 3, 2011)

zombieresponder said:


> My waterpump is dripping from the weep hole, and at approx 180K miles, it's due.


I self tapper loaded with gasket sealer, screwed into that hole and left overnight, will get another 50,000 miles most times.

That weephole is not as big a deal as most people think. As long as the pump is still tight, the leak in the weep hole does not make it pump less.


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## Tirediron (Jul 12, 2010)

Been there, drove a wooden plug in the weep hole (350 chev) , forgot about it, swapped it out when the rad let go years later.


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## zombieresponder (Aug 20, 2012)

MRGUMBY said:


> I self tapper loaded with gasket sealer, screwed into that hole and left overnight, will get another 50,000 miles most times.
> 
> That weephole is not as big a deal as most people think. As long as the pump is still tight, the leak in the weep hole does not make it pump less.


I didn't check the pump bearings while I had everything apart. I don't like leaks.


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## VUnder (Sep 1, 2011)

PLugging the tattle tale hole may get you home, but it lets water get to the water pump bearing. So, if the hole is plugged, the pressurized water gets to the bearing, which it will get past the seals and wash the grease out of the bearing. Then it can lock up, and throw the fan blade through the hood when it locks up and the belt is still turning it. Or, it could fly off when you are looking over the engine..... I saw one go completely through a shop roof once. That weep hole gives the water a place to go besides to the bearing. I might plug it just to get to a better place to change a pump. This can be a dangerous situation.


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