# Cap'n Jack's BOV



## CapnJack (Jul 20, 2012)

Guess I'll share mine. This is what I've got to work with:










2003 Taurus with oversized light truck tires for a little extra ground clearence. The trunk is a cavern, as is the back seat. Tools packed in galore as well as some survival items, (need to get on that better,) and the a-pillar holds a MagLite for general use or a quick-grab weapon. 18 gallon fuel cell, which I am planning on somehow upgrading to at least a 25 gallon tank, while also somehow holstering two full size spare tires. It'll be a challenge, but I'm up for it. Top of the line engine for this model, which is a blessing and a curse, but worth it. It's my fun car that can turn into a survival vehicle just as easy. Plenty of room in the back dash for a small gun rack, and hidden storage for ammo. Thoughts? Additions? Getting a truck just is not feasable for us right now, so this is what I'm working with.


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## cnsper (Sep 20, 2012)

Gun rack in the window = NO Get one of those racks that the cops use so they are handy when you need them. Tire mounts can be added on either side of the rear fender or rear bumper to save room inside the vehicle. They make canvas car top carriers that can be added to the roof for more storage, especially for lighter things like blankets and extra clothes. You would be amazed how much you can fit in one of those. You can also make brackets to mount jerry cans of gas on the outside of the vehicle. You can also add a hitch and pull like a motorcycle trailer of some sort that will give you an additional 20 cubic feet or more of storage space.


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## CapnJack (Jul 20, 2012)

cnsper said:


> Gun rack in the window = NO Get one of those racks that the cops use so they are handy when you need them. Tire mounts can be added on either side of the rear fender or rear bumper to save room inside the vehicle. They make canvas car top carriers that can be added to the roof for more storage, especially for lighter things like blankets and extra clothes. You would be amazed how much you can fit in one of those. You can also make brackets to mount jerry cans of gas on the outside of the vehicle. You can also add a hitch and pull like a motorcycle trailer of some sort that will give you an additional 20 cubic feet or more of storage space.


I completely forgot about the police style rack. Some of these cars were used as police vehicles, so it may just be a matter of tracking one down that will fit just right, along with a front bumper bar. I was thinking the same for the spare tires, and gas cans that you mentioned, as well as a little uhaul trailer hitch and small wagon type trailer to go with. Didn't give rooftop carriers a thought, either. Also I forgot to mention it has an older CB installed, too. Not much use to me now, besides on long trips, but could be when/if the time comes.


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## Tirediron (Jul 12, 2010)

:2thumb:your Taurus is as close to invisible as you will get. couple of things to think about are the engine and transmission oil pans and if they are exposed to damage from below, a couple of layers of puck board (like they use around hockey arenas) can provide a fair bit of protection as well as making a smooth surface for obstructions to slide past. some spare electronic parts couldn't hurt.


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## zombieresponder (Aug 20, 2012)

Tirediron said:


> :2thumb:your Taurus is as close to invisible as you will get. couple of things to think about are the engine and transmission oil pans and if they are exposed to damage from below, a couple of layers of puck board (like they use around hockey arenas) can provide a fair bit of protection as well as making a smooth surface for obstructions to slide past. some spare electronic parts couldn't hurt.


UHMW(a type of plastic) is commonly used by offroaders for cheap skid plates. IMO, I'd rather have 1/8" or 3/16" steel plate for a belly skid. Adding a skid to the gas tank wouldn't be a bad idea either, and enclosing the sides would keep looters from hammering a screwdriver through the tank to steal your gas.


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## JustCliff (May 21, 2011)

From experience:
Get a good skid plate to protect the transmission pan. It is very easy to destroy.

Nutserts are your friend, You can mount all grades of stuff on the body when the time comes like fuel cans and bungy hold down points. 
Maybe find a used cargo carrier for the top and/or a trailer hitch mount cargo carrier.


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## CapnJack (Jul 20, 2012)

Good point with the skid plates. I want to get as much of the underside protected as I can, considering all the exposed brake lines, fuel lines, and plumbing. I think I can make-shift a cargo rack/basket for the hood, too. When SHTF, how she looks ain't gonna be important. Utility will be important. I can probably get all I need for that at the metal yard. Some old metal step bars from a small pickup would work nicely.


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## zombieresponder (Aug 20, 2012)

JustCliff said:


> From experience:
> Get a good skid plate to protect the transmission pan. It is very easy to destroy.
> 
> Nutserts are your friend, You can mount all grades of stuff on the body when the time comes like fuel cans and bungy hold down points.
> Maybe find a used cargo carrier for the top and/or a trailer hitch mount cargo carrier.


I wouldn't depend on nutserts with any type of remotely heavy loading. They'd probably hold up ok if the area around them was reinforced somewhat to spread the load, but otherwise they'll end up ripping out.


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## Tweto (Nov 26, 2011)

My truck has full skid plates from the bottom of the radiator to the end of the transmission tail shaft. There are 3 of them all 1/8" thick steel plates that are fasten to the bottom of the frame with round headed 13mm machine screws that are threaded into nutserts in the frame rails. The truck is 14 years old and has been bashed around for years. The fasteners have survived with no damage. If nutserts are installed correctly they should work fine.


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## JustCliff (May 21, 2011)

Another thing you may want to think about is the windows. If you tint them the lightest shade you can, you will still be able to see while re-enforcing the window. Without the tint, when it breaks the window shatters and goes everywhere and leaves a gaping hole. When the window breaks with the tint on, it adheres to the tint and stays in the hole. It might keep you from getting your head caved in with a brick or other blunt or sharp object.


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## CapnJack (Jul 20, 2012)

JustCliff said:


> Another thing you may want to think about is the windows. If you tint them the lightest shade you can, you will still be able to see while re-enforcing the window. Without the tint, when it breaks the window shatters and goes everywhere and leaves a gaping hole. When the window breaks with the tint on, it adheres to the tint and stays in the hole. It might keep you from getting your head caved in with a brick or other blunt or sharp object.


Done. :2thumb:


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## Jimmy24 (Apr 20, 2011)

One thing to remember is tire repair/small compressor. 

I have the "slime" in a all my tires at this point. Hope to ward off a flat in a bad spot. I also have two spares at this point in my truck. Tires will take a bunch of abuse in a shtf...

Your Tarus is a sleeper for sure. You might want to consider some sort of load leveling devices for the rearend. With a trunk as big as it is, you could overload it easily I bet.

Good thread.

Jimmy


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## zombieresponder (Aug 20, 2012)

Tweto said:


> My truck has full skid plates from the bottom of the radiator to the end of the transmission tail shaft. There are 3 of them all 1/8" thick steel plates that are fasten to the bottom of the frame with round headed 13mm machine screws that are threaded into nutserts in the frame rails. The truck is 14 years old and has been bashed around for years. The fasteners have survived with no damage. If nutserts are installed correctly they should work fine.


Are you sure they're nutserts and not nut strips? Nutserts don't hold well in sheetmetal, though I'm sure they'd work fine in something that's 1/8" thick. Look at factory roof rack weight ratings. I think the factory rack on my jeep is rated at something like 150 lbs. I used gutter mounts when I put my cargo basket on so I could carry a full 500 lbs of gear on top without problems. Folks that mounted to the factory rack rails have had them rip out with nothing more than a spare tire in the basket.


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## machinist (Jul 4, 2012)

Big difference in putting nut inserts into a frame vs. body sheet metal. The insert is strong; it is the parent metal that is important. 

I would go for a trailer hitch that is made specifically for that car, thus designed to attach to the strongest points. Maybe one of the small rail trailers sold at Tractor Supply would do it for you. Very light, with a fold up rear ramp gate.


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## Tweto (Nov 26, 2011)

zombieresponder said:


> Are you sure they're nutserts and not nut strips? Nutserts don't hold well in sheetmetal, though I'm sure they'd work fine in something that's 1/8" thick. Look at factory roof rack weight ratings. I think the factory rack on my jeep is rated at something like 150 lbs. I used gutter mounts when I put my cargo basket on so I could carry a full 500 lbs of gear on top without problems. Folks that mounted to the factory rack rails have had them rip out with nothing more than a spare tire in the basket.


Nutserts also called rivnuts (BFGoodrich) are installed by drilling a round hole and then inserting the Nutserts into the hole and then crushing them with ether hydraulic force or some of the smaller nutserts can be installed with a hand operated tool. The crushing force expands the neck and pushes the serated edges into the sides of the drilled hole. All my nutserts are in the frame. The only job that they perform is to hold the skid plates against the frame so all of the stress is in shear. Any foreign object that hits on of the plates puts all the stresses on the bottom of the frame. The front edges of the skid plates are all protected with the skid plates in front of it. The very front skid plate is just inches behind the front bumper and uses that for protection. All mechanical parts are above the skid plates including the front axle differential (it's a fully independent axle like on a front wheel drive car). A visual inspection of the plates would look like the bottom of a boat, smooth and continuous. I have had all plates out 2 or 3 times in the last 14 years and have not had any problems getting them off or putting them back on.


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## CapnJack (Jul 20, 2012)

Jimmy24 said:


> One thing to remember is tire repair/small compressor.
> 
> I have the "slime" in a all my tires at this point. Hope to ward off a flat in a bad spot. I also have two spares at this point in my truck. Tires will take a bunch of abuse in a shtf...
> 
> ...


I hate the slime. Such a mess when replacing tires, but I suppose in a SHTF scenario, there will be no replacing tires! I was considering an airbag setup for the rear suspension.


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## Jimmy24 (Apr 20, 2011)

CapnJack said:


> I hate the slime. Such a mess when replacing tires, but I suppose in a SHTF scenario, there will be no replacing tires! I was considering an airbag setup for the rear suspension.


Oh I agree about the slime, no doubt. But I figure in a SHTF situation, we won't be driving long anyway....

Yup the airbag is a good deal, particulally for a car. Nice to have a lift to install though. Can be done on the ground, just more work.

Jimmy


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## zombieresponder (Aug 20, 2012)

Tweto said:


> Nutserts also called rivnuts (BFGoodrich) are installed by drilling a round hole and then inserting the Nutserts into the hole and then crushing them with ether hydraulic force or some of the smaller nutserts can be installed with a hand operated tool. The crushing force expands the neck and pushes the serated edges into the sides of the drilled hole. All my nutserts are in the frame. The only job that they perform is to hold the skid plates against the frame so all of the stress is in shear. Any foreign object that hits on of the plates puts all the stresses on the bottom of the frame. The front edges of the skid plates are all protected with the skid plates in front of it. The very front skid plate is just inches behind the front bumper and uses that for protection. All mechanical parts are above the skid plates including the front axle differential (it's a fully independent axle like on a front wheel drive car). A visual inspection of the plates would look like the bottom of a boat, smooth and continuous. I have had all plates out 2 or 3 times in the last 14 years and have not had any problems getting them off or putting them back on.


I'm familiar with them. Just asking since some mfgs use nutstrips.



machinist said:


> Big difference in putting nut inserts into a frame vs. body sheet metal. The insert is strong; it is the parent metal that is important.


That's what I was getting at. They just don't hold up to being loaded when installed in sheetmetal.


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## CapnJack (Jul 20, 2012)

Jimmy24 said:


> Oh I agree about the slime, no doubt. But I figure in a SHTF situation, we won't be driving long anyway....
> 
> Yup the airbag is a good deal, particulally for a car. Nice to have a lift to install though. Can be done on the ground, just more work.
> 
> Jimmy


Well none of that lifty-stuff will be happening any time soon! I figure right about now, the shop has the fuel tank sitting on the floor while they swap in a new pump. :thumbdown:
So $750 later, and hopefully, the Capn will be riding again. If not, I need to replace a $120 PEM also. That one I can do on my own in 5 minutes, but I just don't have the time to tackle the pump myself.

vract:


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