# Pre-electronic vehicles



## Jezcruzen

OK, someone help me out here. Is it the pre-'74 vehicles that are electronic-free and could still be drivable after an EMP?


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## 1969cj-5

I was thinking anything pre-1972 was good. Anything after that was subject to emmisions standards.


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## BillT

I believe it varies depending on the car manufacturer and type of model. 

Bill


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## CulexPipiens

Also, some trucks made it longer than cars did before they got the computers. You pretty much need to settle on a make/model and then research that to determine the actual switch over year.


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## Jimmy24

Coils, condencers, altenators, voltage regulators, generators, starter motor. All are subject to problems.

They have windings in them. Makes them pickup magnatic (sp) loads.

Least thats what I've studied. I don't think anyone really knows 100% for sure.

Jimmy


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## Tirediron

Jimmy24 said:


> Coils, condencers, altenators, voltage regulators, generators, starter motor. All are subject to problems.
> 
> They have windings in them. Makes them pickup magnatic (sp) loads.
> 
> Least thats what I've studied. I don't think anyone really knows 100% for sure.Jimmy


that is so true, it is a guessing game until it happens.

in answer to the origonal question most north americam stuff went electronic ignition in the early - mid 70s , but most had alternators since about '63, but most were still carbutared until the mid eighties, and could be converted back to point ignition.

If you post your goal type of vehicle someone will know the details .


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## HozayBuck

*I had a 79 GMC 4X4 and it didn't have any thing i could ID as an issue.. carbed, just a motor and battery..

I've been looking for an up to mid 70's Burb with a 4 speed manual tranny... don't know if they ever made then with a stick.. 4x4 and then I can pick NK's brain as the $$ comes in to work on it...*


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## Tirediron

Yes they were built with manual transmissions but weren't very common, but all of the required parts from a pick up truck bolt right in, 
After mid 1975 gm trucks had electronic ignition, and an alternator so there could be issues there , like Jimmy24 said we have no hard data on the actual effects of an EMP burst on various components. I did see a video of a test performed with a emp generator, on a 90s type north american car, and the pulse caused the engine to shut down,


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## 1969cj-5

What about Military Surplus 5/4 ton trucks? they all have the 6.2 diesel. Were they shielded as part of thr procurment contract. 

All the Aircraft I have worked are shielded.


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## JustCliff

Got one for sale by the town locally. I may try and jump on it but being an "outsider", it will be hard for me to get.


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## 1969cj-5

justcliff said:


> got one for sale by the town locally. I may try and jump on it but being an "outsider", it will be hard for me to get.


"outsider"?


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## JustCliff

" I aint from around here" LOL It doesn't matter how long you have lived here. If you wern't born here and have family here and got a funny name, you will always be an outsider.


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## VUnder

Ford: 76 was about the last year of breaker points. They went to a solid state ignition after that, which is still simple, just has a module that plugs in. Easy to hoard up extras, just ask me. In 87, most everything was computer fuel injection. Some special packages came with carberators, and ignition modules, like I had an 87 bronco with a 4bbl and old style duraspark ignition. On the old ones, it is easy to pack a few extra distributors, coils, alternators, brain boxes, and you are set. 

Chevrolet/GM : Not sure as they are off brands on my hill. The early ones had points, then went to the HEI (high energy ignition) around the same time Ford did. The difference was that it had a stator and pick up coil in the distributor, and the coil was on top of the distributor, all in one little package. It is easy to pack a few of these away, or a few old points distributors, coils, and alternators. 

Dodge: Really an off brand on Luther Willis Hill, but they followed suit like Ford and GM, may be a year difference here and there, but pretty much the same. After the points era, they had an ignition similar to the Ford Duraspark system. The distributor has a stator and pickup coil, and there is an ignition module, coil is external like Ford, and all works the same. These things are easy to pick up extras.

If somebody is serious about an older vehicle, I can set somebody up good. I have many 70's and earlier 4x4 vehicles. I have a 4x4 Suburban that would make a nice bov. You can have it shipped or I can haul. I have maybe 25-30 4x4's and plenty of parts 4x2's on the yard. Mostly Ford, some GM, Dodge, and Willys. PM in interested.


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## VUnder

1969cj-5 said:


> I was thinking anything pre-1972 was good. Anything after that was subject to emmisions standards.


72 was when the cars went to smog. Trucks lasted a lot longer, then in maybe 77, the 1/2 ton trucks came under smog. That is when Ford came out with the 150 as a 5/8 ton. Chevrolet did the same with the Big 10 series. I am not sure what Dodge called theirs, but they had one too, just to get around the emissions. The 3/4 tons didn't have smog control for a while. 76 was about the last year for breaker points. But, the ignitions from 76 to 86 are not computer, and are solid state, and maybe will still work. For any of them, you can just get an old points distributor and install. I usually run a ballast resistor on all my points systems. It cuts the run voltage down to 6 volts, which makes the points last longer. I hook into the "start" wire that activates the solenoid and run it directly to the coil to give me 12v when starting, then the run wire goes through the resistor to have it run on 6v. Same thing on my old 52 model tractor, wired it the same way. Same on my 55 Willys pickup.


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## VUnder

Aircraft have to be shielded against lightning strikes.


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## GaryS

Critical systems on modern aircraft have been EMP shielded and tested since the late eighties. It remains to be seen if the shielding would be successful in a real situation.

FWIW, Dodge began moving from points to electronic ignitions in 1972, and by 1973 everything had been converted. Fortunately, point style ignitions are available for their engines up until the late eighties, and even later in some cases. Ditto for intake manifolds and carburetors.


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## VUnder

I guess it really depends on how strong the flare is. Russia losing contact with their mars moon probe is a concern, what really happened? Why is NASA shutting down? Do they know we are in for a lot of solar activity? I remember reading a report from NASA that this year was the height of a solar cycle, then I hear no more about it. I personally think if you have a vehicle that survives, you won't be able to use it but for a few hours, maybe to bug out, but after that, it will not be safe. 

My old neighbor still has a 3/4 ton Dodge, it is the first year of the Club Cab. I think it has the electronic ignition. Ever since it was new, it just dies for no reason. He took it to every Dodge place in the country around here. He never sold it because it had that problem, said he couldn't sell it to anybody like that. I always thought it was funny, until I had one myself. It would die, maybe at a stop sign in the middle of nowhere at midnight, it may crank in three minutes, it may not crank for a month. Never found out what that was all about. Good truck too, but just when you think, I really don't need this thing to quit now....that would be it until it decided to run again. At least it had some personality.


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## JustCliff

VUnder said:


> My old neighbor still has a 3/4 ton Dodge, it is the first year of the Club Cab. I think it has the electronic ignition. Ever since it was new, it just dies for no reason. He took it to every Dodge place in the country around here. He never sold it because it had that problem, said he couldn't sell it to anybody like that. I always thought it was funny, until I had one myself. It would die, maybe at a stop sign in the middle of nowhere at midnight, it may crank in three minutes, it may not crank for a month. Never found out what that was all about. Good truck too, but just when you think, I really don't need this thing to quit now....that would be it until it decided to run again. At least it had some personality.


I had a 73 like that.It drove me nuts for a while. Finally found that for some reason there would be a great deal of condensation under the distributor cap. Changed it out with a vented cap and never had the problem again.
VUnder: Wouldn't happen to have an old Dodge 4X4 in your stock would you?


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## Tirediron

Don't forget plug wires, wires designed for electronic ignition break down fast with point ignition for some reason, get a couple of sets of wire core plug wires to put away with your point ignition parts, and when you put point ignition in the spark plug gap needs to be narrowed. Personally I have a few extra GM hei distributors stored,along with a couple of point distributors, HEI s are nice set ups.


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## Tweto

*Points*

I have a 71' Bronco that is keep in good shape just for the EMP issue. I have had this truck for 35 years. I do all the mechanical work on it. No one has mentioned here about the additional maintanance required for preelectronic ignition vehicles.

If you are planning to buy a vehicle with points, and have no experiance with this type, find a mechanic with experiance to show you the correct way to adjust the points and the timing. Get experiance with emergency cleaning and filing of the points. Also, I keep one extra set of new points, rotor, and distributor cap in the glove box. The quality of the points, distributer cap and rotor is not has good has it was back in the 70's. Back then you could get gold plated parts witch were 3 times better then nongold plated parts that you get today. Some auto parts suppliers do not even carry these any more. NAPA still has my parts.


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## Tweto

VUnder said:


> Aircraft have to be shielded against lightning strikes.


I own a small Cessna and have been around aviation for 25 years. You might be talking about the larger aircraft such as, turbo props and larger that have shielding. The engine cowling could be acting has shielding, but my aircraft doesn't need shielding because it uses twin magnitos and has no electronic components. I have lost radios when I was flying through thunderstorms and had no ignition problems.

After saying all of this, the brand new small aircraft use electronic systems for one of the ignitions and use a magnito as a back for the second ignition system.


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## GaryS

Large aircraft are designed to bleed electrical charges from the fuselage into the air, so lightning normally is not a concern. However, when I was in the Air Force, one of our C-141s was damaged by lightning and it developed one electrical problem after another for several years. All the aircraft electricians and nav techs hated that airplane.


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## GaryS

VUnder said:


> My old neighbor still has a 3/4 ton Dodge, it is the first year of the Club Cab. I think it has the electronic ignition. Ever since it was new, it just dies for no reason. He took it to every Dodge place in the country around here. He never sold it because it had that problem, said he couldn't sell it to anybody like that. I always thought it was funny, until I had one myself. It would die, maybe at a stop sign in the middle of nowhere at midnight, it may crank in three minutes, it may not crank for a month. Never found out what that was all about. Good truck too, but just when you think, I really don't need this thing to quit now....that would be it until it decided to run again. At least it had some personality.


That problem can almost always be traced to a bad Hall-effect pickup in the distributor. Annoying problem with an easy fix.


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## VUnder

Tweto said:


> I own a small Cessna and have been around aviation for 25 years. You might be talking about the larger aircraft such as, turbo props and larger that have shielding. The engine cowling could be acting has shielding, but my aircraft doesn't need shielding because it uses twin magnitos and has no electronic components. I have lost radios when I was flying through thunderstorms and had no ignition problems.
> 
> After saying all of this, the brand new small aircraft use electronic systems for one of the ignitions and use a magnito as a back for the second ignition system.


So, the truth is, we really all need back ups that are simple and dependable. Because, as you mention, the old reliable is still where it counts, to make sure and engine in an airplane functions properly. So, in a bad situation, my bov will be as important to me as that airplane is to you when you are high in the sky. I do have a line on some magneto distributors that will fit 300 six cylinder Fords, just have to talk him out of them.


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## Tirediron

Tweto said:


> I have a 71' Bronco that is keep in good shape just for the EMP issue. I have had this truck for 35 years. I do all the mechanical work on it. No one has mentioned here about the additional maintanance required for preelectronic ignition vehicles.
> 
> If you are planning to buy a vehicle with points, and have no experiance with this type, find a mechanic with experiance to show you the correct way to adjust the points and the timing. Get experiance with emergency cleaning and filing of the points. Also, I keep one extra set of new points, rotor, and distributor cap in the glove box. The quality of the points, distributer cap and rotor is not has good has it was back in the 70's. Back then you could get gold plated parts witch were 3 times better then nongold plated parts that you get today. Some auto parts suppliers do not even carry these any more. NAPA still has my parts.


Some very good points, I though that I had mentioned it , but maybe I just thought about it, as you said now is the time to get familiar with the ignition system , not when a mob of hungry people is bearing down on you.


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## BillS

If there was an EMP attack all working vehicles would be confiscated by the government. Or so the thinking goes.


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## VUnder

I don't think you can use your vehicles except for a few hours after it happens, until reality sets in for those that are in la la land all the time anyway. Me, mine is getting me to where I am going, then the distributor is going on with me to get buried or something.


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## Tirediron

VUnder said:


> I don't think you can use your vehicles except for a few hours after it happens, until reality sets in for those that are in la la land all the time anyway. Me, mine is getting me to where I am going, then the distributor is going on with me to get buried or something.


You hit the nail on the head there, get as safe as possible and stay there until things calm down or die off.


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## BillT

BillS said:


> If there was an EMP attack all working vehicles would be confiscated by the government.


No one is getting my vehicles. I'll keep them hid if I have to, lol.


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## Jezcruzen

I've been looking around for a Chevy or GMC 4X4 pick-up... probably somewhere from '69 to '72. I would like to find one having a few inches of lift, and with a 350c.i. Fords would do just as well. 

I'm not interested in one restored to "like new". I just want a solid truck in running condition. I can replace/update what needs attention. I only have $2500 or so to spend. All I have looked at so far have been hot rodded, are not in running condition, or are just junk.


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## BillT

You should be able to find what you are looking for, for that price. Check in your local trading papers or even on Craigslist. The '67 to '72 Chev/GMC's are great trucks. I have 4 of them. I would recommend a Manual Trans though. The Automatics just don't hold up as good. Even if the prices are higher, I would take a look anyway. Lot's of times the sellers will take less. I doesn't hurt to make an offer.

Keep us posted.

Bill


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## Tirediron

when considering '67-'72 gm 4x4 trucks keep the front axle in mind, the early ball type joint are hard to get parts for and even the later u joint type have their own axle size, unless you swap in a complete axle from a '73-'78 (dana 44) or '79-'87 (gm 10bolt)


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## jungatheart

Just wanted to say thanks to all for the great information. 

This and good company are why I come here.


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## VUnder

Tirediron said:


> when considering '67-'72 gm 4x4 trucks keep the front axle in mind, the early ball type joint are hard to get parts for and even the later u joint type have their own axle size, unless you swap in a complete axle from a '73-'78 (dana 44) or '79-'87 (gm 10bolt)


I have been running a closed knuckle Ford for several years. I have pulled many two ton trucks out with my truck pawing with all four wheels on the pavement, never broke anything. I have it made into a one ton with a service bed, air compressor, welding machine, torch and bottles, autocrane on the back right corner, so it is loaded. Mainly, if you get one, hopefully it is in good shape, if not, get it in good shape, and you should be good to go. If you need an axle, look up Dutchman, they can make any type for you. Even had one made for a large pettibone loader once.

I was going to upgrade my front end once, but an all out episode changed my mind. I was towing an F800 power company pole setting truck on a tow bar. The inside dual on the rear was flat. I was on a skinny country road late at night to avoid poleeses. Somebody had gotten stuck bad on the edge of the road and tore the pavement up. The outside tire went off the road, the flat one didn't do anything, and the whole shebang went off in the ditch. My truck would still move it locked in four wheel, but it wouldn't come out. Tried it next morning with a Komatsu 4x4 backhoe, but it wouldn't move it at all. Hooked my truck back up, still could move it. So, I let the Komatsu help me get it back on the road. After that, and not breaking anything, I didn't figure I needed a better front end. I have about a dozen old high boys around here, but I never swapped one out.


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## VUnder

Jezcruzen said:


> I've been looking around for a Chevy or GMC 4X4 pick-up... probably somewhere from '69 to '72. I would like to find one having a few inches of lift, and with a 350c.i. Fords would do just as well.
> 
> I'm not interested in one restored to "like new". I just want a solid truck in running condition. I can replace/update what needs attention. I only have $2500 or so to spend. All I have looked at so far have been hot rodded, are not in running condition, or are just junk.


There is a nice chevy around here that is a 73 3/4 ton. Truck looks good and has good tires. Has the rust over the wheels that chevys tend to have, but that is no problem for what you want it for. It is not rusty or bent, other than that. It can be bought for less than a grand, but has an auto that needs attention. I am a true blue Ford fan, but I considered getting this chevy and doing the transmission just to have a good work truck. It looks like an old fellas work truck that has been kept up well over the years. Like you said, it is hard to find them that haven't been mud-dogged out and gutted. I have several Fords that I am peddlin away. If I buy one that has big tires, lift, hot rodded, it gets taken down, as it usually don't run, or has been rolled or something. I have drug many a carcass home. Putting an electric winch on my 16' trailer is one of the best things I ever did. I can get them with all five tires on flat, even missing a tire or two. I did have a 74 3/4 ton Dodge 4x4 that was a real hoss too. But, it was the only Dodge I had, and somebody else really liked it....


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## gysgtdchsr7292

*Thinking about a BOV*

Think about this for a second and tell me what you think.
Buy a 50's model Chevy/Ford or any other auto type (no trucks or vans) in rough condition, Sort of a Rat-Rod looking vehicle and upgrade the engine/running gear. Say a 6 cyl with mods by clifford research to get more HP/MPG. breaker type ignition and such. Put a larger gas tank to extend the range, reciever hitch in rear to go with a removable winch. Mud grip tires (not current rage off road/4x4 tire) all corners, posi rear.
A 50's model rat rod could be parked in a non-descript rural location and just not be looked at too closely, trunks have a ton of room for gear, body is heavier steel so would be easier to add lighter armor, loads of room iside to carry family, (6 people @ least). If it was left rusty and unpainted few would consider it of value to steal.


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## VUnder

I have been leaning toward solid rubber tires too. All my vehicles that run also look like they belong to a junk yard. Run like a top. Drove one from Louisiana to New York state line on a dare, not a bit of trouble.


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## Redtail

My daily driver is a 1965 Pontiac Tempest that sort of looks like it could have been an extra in a Mad Max movie. It's not exactly the most off-road capable vehicle out there, but I just got through replacing every component that I can't fix myself. All the front suspension stuff. 

THe only thing that could make it more versatile would be an SB Chevy V8 instead of the Pontiac V8 that I have in there right now, but it's making upwards of 350 horsepower but gets 26MPG on the highway and that's after years of tweaking and tuning and I don't have that kind of experience with a Chevy engine, nor the time to do so anymore. 

The vehicle is not totally EMP-proof nor is it absolutely indestructible, but my father has the same vehicle and a stockpile of parts for maintenance.

We also keep spare alternators and distributors in the basement with our defensive hardware, protected by Mother Earth herself against electromagnetic destruction. 

ANother similar vehicle I've been toying with is a 1976 Yamaha DT250 dual-sport bike that gets 50-60MPG and runs acceptably well on the crappy half-evaporated gas out of the lawnmower after it's sat in the shed all winter, with an adjustment to the carb. 
It's a kick-start with points ignition and the ignition coil is the size of a pack of cigarettes. 

That one is definitely a bit closer to being a go-anywhere-do-anything kind of vehicle, as it's proven itself capable of slogging through snow when necessary.


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## 41south

VUnder said:


> I have been leaning toward solid rubber tires too. All my vehicles that run also look like they belong to a junk yard. Run like a top. Drove one from Louisiana to New York state line on a dare, not a bit of trouble.


I would forget about solid tires, I have used them on lots of heavy equipment, mainly in underground mining, they are OK there. And I have used them on trucks that were strictly on site trucks fuel and grease rigs, they are OK in that application. But they are useless on a road vehicle, they shake the wheel right out of your hand and beat the truck to death, even on asphalt .

Solid tires or foam filled are extremely heavy, rigid and square as a box, you can rarely travel over 15MPH with them. And since they don't flex, no matter what lug patterns we have used, they don't travel well in muddy conditions. And all of the applications I have used them on have been heavy stuff, front end loaders and service rigs all weighed above 25,000 Lbs with the exception of a skidsteer that weighs about 8,000 Lbs and an old backhoe that was fairly light too it weighed about 10,000.

I don't mean to be rude, I just have lots of experience with them and foam filling is expensive too.


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## Redtail

One not-quite-but-almost stopgap measure is to preload all your tires with a double-shot of Gunk to prevent small punctures from becoming a problem. 
I did this in my mother's car, and when she went to get her tires changed, she came back and said that the folks were complaining about how many nails and screws she'd picked up, but she hardly ever had to worry about checking her tire pressure. 

Remember, discretion is the better part of valor. If you can avoid a hazard, it's often better to do so than to muscle through it. If you can survive it, you may still have taxed your hardware.


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## VUnder

41south said:


> I would forget about solid tires, I have used them on lots of heavy equipment, mainly in underground mining, they are OK there. And I have used them on trucks that were strictly on site trucks fuel and grease rigs, they are OK in that application. But they are useless on a road vehicle, they shake the wheel right out of your hand and beat the truck to death, even on asphalt .
> 
> Solid tires or foam filled are extremely heavy, rigid and square as a box, you can rarely travel over 15MPH with them. And since they don't flex, no matter what lug patterns we have used, they don't travel well in muddy conditions. And all of the applications I have used them on have been heavy stuff, front end loaders and service rigs all weighed above 25,000 Lbs with the exception of a skidsteer that weighs about 8,000 Lbs and an old backhoe that was fairly light too it weighed about 10,000.
> 
> I don't mean to be rude, I just have lots of experience with them and foam filling is expensive too.


41, There is no rude, this is a discussion, and opinions are welcome. I just don't want anybody shooting my tires out. I imagine I could go over 15mph with a couple of 30-06's popping in my direction. I have shot tires out before and know it will stop the vehicle. I don't want to have to change a flat under fire, light or heavy. I don't plan on having solids on it as a daily driver. But, if I skip out, I will just have to shake rattle and roll with the solids. We have some skid steers, and another guy had one with solid tires, and it wouldn't pull the hat off your head. He didn't have any flats, and I had two on that same job. Mainly, if I can travel faster than most people can run, I am good with that. I have an old potato chip truck that I am plating just to have me an old bug out vehicle sitting around here, just in case. All ideas and opinions welcome.


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## Tweto

There is an insert available that goes around the wheel and inside of the tire that makes tires driveable at high speeds if the tire is shot out.

I saw this on a TV show about armered car manufacturing, I have not used them or know how much they are.


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## 41south

VUnder said:


> 41, There is no rude, this is a discussion, and opinions are welcome. I just don't want anybody shooting my tires out. I imagine I could go over 15mph with a couple of 30-06's popping in my direction. I have shot tires out before and know it will stop the vehicle. I don't want to have to change a flat under fire, light or heavy. I don't plan on having solids on it as a daily driver. But, if I skip out, I will just have to shake rattle and roll with the solids. We have some skid steers, and another guy had one with solid tires, and it wouldn't pull the hat off your head. He didn't have any flats, and I had two on that same job. Mainly, if I can travel faster than most people can run, I am good with that. I have an old potato chip truck that I am plating just to have me an old bug out vehicle sitting around here, just in case. All ideas and opinions welcome.


Great, I like discussion and the printed word is not like the spoken word, so I try to be careful and not be too blunt. And you have clarified your point and ideas and I agree with you on them.

I have had some real wild incidents with solids, foam filled, and even silicone filled tires I just didn't want someone, to go out and spend a fortune for foam filling and head home and have a OH SHIT moment. We had that happen on a another job I was on years ago. I stuck a newbie in a service truck and he tore out like he was on normal tires. After he cleaned a ditch out down the side of the mountain and went in a pond sliding he had a spooky feeling. I have seen some crazy crashes on some of these jobs.

We dump a five gallon bucket of sealer in all our new off road truck tires and loader tires when we mount them, ten gallons in the big loaders. The newer sealers work pretty good, the old pink stuff would ruin the wheels bands and even the O rings with rust.


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## VUnder

Anyone ever use Royal Seal tires? They had black goo in them that oozed out when you had a puncture and sealed the hole. Worked pretty good, never went completely flat. The trailer usually hauled a 10k tractor.


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## Jezcruzen

I'm still looking. I have seen a couple of old Chevys on craigslist, but they both were 2WD. Finding trucks built in the eighties is easy enough, but they all should have electronic ignition, I suppose.

I have seen an early 70's Chevy truck sitting in the side yard of a house nearby. Looks like grass growing around it. Can't tell if its 4WD or not. I need to take a closer look and maybe stop in and ask if its for sale.

VUder, wish you were closer. I'm up in Virginia. I've found a lot of nice trucks out your way and farther west, but they are all above my price range.


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## VUnder

You should be good with anything 86 or older. Even if it has electronic ignition, it won't have fuel injection. You can just swap distributors, which is not hard to do at all. I carry an extra with me on long trips (like Virginia), just in case I have a problem. You didn't find too many around here, because I got them all rounded up around these parts. A young guy stopped by about one last week. Said he couldn't find one, I told him because they are all here at my house. I have a very nice 86 K5 blazer I just picked up with 77k on it, and looks close to new. It has the silverado package, all electric, 350, 4bbl, aod, 4x4, and you could let your daughter drive it to school every day, it is that smooth. I will probably ebay that one. I will get the boys to clean it up, detail it today so I can get some pics, it will be sunny out.


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## VUnder

There is avery nice 73 Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 auto, it does need something done to the trans, but is easy on those. If I was a chevy lover, would be all over it. I can probably get it for 800. Is that along what you are looking for? It has new tires, but the old guy has ford hub caps on it, but that still didn't fix the transmission, though it probably helped.


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## Jezcruzen

VUnder said:


> There is avery nice 73 Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 auto, it does need something done to the trans, but is easy on those. If I was a chevy lover, would be all over it. I can probably get it for 800. Is that along what you are looking for? It has new tires, but the old guy has ford hub caps on it, but that still didn't fix the transmission, though it probably helped.


:2thumb: A true Ford fan!

I think the body style changed in '73. I prefer the older body style, but I wouldn't pass by a good solid truck over it.

I did drive by that house I mentioned regarding the truck sitting in the yard. I is a long-body 4WD Chevy for sure. I slowed down and took a good look this time. Once I get some jingle in my pocket, I might stop in and talk to them.

i missed a truck about a year ago. That was before I had made up my mind to hunt for one. A guy close had it on craiglist. He said he had too many projects going and needed to get rid of something. He had completed all the body work, and it had a coat of primer on it. Lifted a bit with a 350. Don't remember if it was auto or not. $1500. I still think about it.

In my mind's eye I see this Chevy truck, lifted at bit, 350, a throaty duel exhaust, painted coyote brown w/flat black spoke wheels, heavy-duty flat black bumpers, flat black brush guard and a winch. Well, never hurts to fantasize, does it.


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## hotrod

On a Chevy you cab go all the way up to 1988 in a 3/4 or 1 ton. Justook under the hood. Some had TBI (throttle body injectors), and some didn't. If you pull of the air cleaner and there is a round hole with 2 injectors in it, it's a TBI. All of the emission parts can come off and still be legal in most states. They were mostly air pumps. I have a 81 3/4 ton with 350/350/205 with 4 inches of lift and 36" mudders. I have tri-y headers and run 3" exhaust back past the transfer case into a flowed y pipe and a 40 series flowmaster. Juart remember that ALL older trucks have rust issues in the rockers and sometimes in the back of the front fenders into the cab. Parts are plentiful and easy to get. (LMC Truck Parts Etc). One issue the old points system had was water in the distributor would shut down your truck. The water would cause the "spark" to jump to another post and then arc out the points. We use to cure this with Silicone o rings and window caulking. You literally caulk the dist cap on and seal up any wires going in. The coils we put in the cab under the dash. (I've been wheeling a while). The old generators that where used all had an external regulator that used parts I don't think are made anymore. You can have them made, but it's expensive. Just remember, once you do one thing (bigger tires etc) you will create a chain effect down the whole drivetrain. The last true wheeler I made was a 85 4 runner with 8" of lift and 38" gumbo mudders. Not very street legal, but it would climb a tree. Had the stock 4 cly with 5'spd and a doubler transfer case with Dana 60's


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## Tweto

hotrod said:


> On a Chevy you cab go all the way up to 1988 in a 3/4 or 1 ton. Justook under the hood. Some had TBI (throttle body injectors), and some didn't. If you pull of the air cleaner and there is a round hole with 2 injectors in it, it's a TBI. All of the emission parts can come off and still be legal in most states. They were mostly air pumps. I have a 81 3/4 ton with 350/350/205 with 4 inches of lift and 36" mudders. I have tri-y headers and run 3" exhaust back past the transfer case into a flowed y pipe and a 40 series flowmaster. Juart remember that ALL older trucks have rust issues in the rockers and sometimes in the back of the front fenders into the cab. Parts are plentiful and easy to get. (LMC Truck Parts Etc). One issue the old points system had was water in the distributor would shut down your truck. The water would cause the "spark" to jump to another post and then arc out the points. We use to cure this with Silicone o rings and window caulking. You literally caulk the dist cap on and seal up any wires going in. The coils we put in the cab under the dash. (I've been wheeling a while). The old generators that where used all had an external regulator that used parts I don't think are made anymore. You can have them made, but it's expensive. Just remember, once you do one thing (bigger tires etc) you will create a chain effect down the whole drivetrain. The last true wheeler I made was a 85 4 runner with 8" of lift and 38" gumbo mudders. Not very street legal, but it would climb a tree. Had the stock 4 cly with 5'spd and a doubler transfer case with Dana 60's


Be careful about sealing-up the distributor. I tried this and found that the humidity sealed into the distributor continues to vaporise and condense because of heat cycling (engine on, engine off) inside that distributor cab and corrodes the points and rotor. The truck may run well for awhile, But not forever. Those distributors were ment to breath a little to keep every thing dry inside. The smartest thing to do is to put fan spray shield a front of the distributor and make sure that water cann't get to it. If you drive a ford you have a real problem because the distributor is right in the front of the engine and directly behind the radiator fan. Hit a puddle, splash water into the radiator fan and then the fan throws the water all over the engine compartment.

I was heavy into four wheeling when all the trucks had distributors with points. Be careful, even if the truck has a distributor it doesn't mean that is is not electronic ignition. When electronic systems first came out, the manufactures just replaced the points inside of the distributors with a electric sensor. These types of ignition systems started to show up about 1975.

Happy trucking!!


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## GaryS

Just info...electronic ignitions began to be installed in Dodge trucks in 1972. However, their 318, 360, 400, 440, and slant six engines can all be retrofitted with points type distributors from pre-'72 engines of the same and similar engine sizes. An old distributor and a wiring diagram make a good addition to your mechanical prepping supplies.


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## pawpaw

Jimmy24 said:


> Coils, condencers, altenators, voltage regulators, generators, starter motor. All are subject to problems.
> 
> They have windings in them. Makes them pickup magnatic (sp) loads.
> 
> Least thats what I've studied. I don't think anyone really knows 100% for sure.
> 
> Jimmy


Readings these posts, I can't help but thinking about how the "Carrington Event" as it's become known, fried wires & telegraph equipment, even starting fires at some locations. And that was really pre-electronic, as it were. 1859, I think.
Yes, I know that these beefy wires may have acted as huge conductors, but even your standard bulbs have those _teeny-weenie little filaments in them._(lol).


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## hotrod

Your right, that there was electronic ignitions starting around 75. The point about sealing the distributor was that it can be done. I ran a 76 chevy with 44" swampers that way for years. I live in the Pacific NW and all we have is rain, mud, and webbed feet. You still have to change the points every six months, but that's when you do the biyearly tune up anyway. Maybe that's why my old trucks still work like new. Most have carbs, they are all cold blooded, and every 6 months like clockwork they need a tune up and oil change.


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## DKRinAK

*The real deal*

Years ago I worked for a Geo-exploration company in SoAZ, worked out in the boonies looking for copper...

Used a Power Wagon, really nice off-road truck. One day we were waaaay out in the boonies, had to use 4x4, low range, real tricky to get in.

And then this this drove up:










1929 Model A Ford Pickup, with a two speed rear end and 19 Inch tires. No problems. ANd if there was ever a pre-electronic vehicle...

And if you get one of these --









you can have a hand start, all-terrain all weather vehicle.
No heater or wipers tho...

Both will hold their resale value quite well - easy to work on, parts are still out there and they have quite the track record for being reliable.
A well tuned 1929 Model A will pass most smog inspections, even today. Runs on 86 octane gas...looks like the past may well be the wave of the future.

Anyway, my brother has a nice A roadster, quite the hoot to drive....


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