# Virginia Garden



## Shammua (Jan 27, 2012)

The last two years I attempted gardens with mixed results. 
The first year about half grew pretty well, the second year almost nothing grew. Now for the second year I noticed that with the ton of rain we had the area my garden was in was low laying so I believe most of my plants drowned. That issue has been resolved.
So my question now is as follows:
1. It is still really wet here, what can I do with the soil (if anything) while I wait for it to dry out enough to turn it and break it up?

2. Can anyone recommend hardy plants that do well even with LOTS of water?

3. Should I do anything special to the ground since we have a decent amount of pine trees at our fence line (in the neighbors yard)? 

4. Is there a certain soil I should look for to really boost my top soil this year and help encourage growth, especially since some of what was used to fill in the low spots had a decent amount of clay and rocks in it?

I want to have a really good garden this year but I'm not 100% on what I'm doing so I thought I would ask.


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## cqp33 (Apr 2, 2012)

I would think the best thing you could add would be compost. The pines being close concerns me the most though, they make the soil very acidic. Most veggies don't like acidic soil, some things like blueberries need acidic soil but like I said most veggies don't do well in acidic soil at all.
Here is a link of veggies and herbs that prefer acidic soil.
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/list-acid-loving-vegetable-plants-43015.html

My advice would be to remove any of the pine needles that fall on your side of the fence and move the garden (if possible) from the area near the pine trees or ask your neighbor to cut them down (doubtful at best). I cut most pines that grow on my land because most of them are west virginia pines that don't grow well.


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## Shammua (Jan 27, 2012)

I'm kind of screwed on the cutting down or moving my garden. Their trees are big enough that it coats my backyard each year. I will however plant some blueberries closest to the trees. 
We actually put down some soil treatment to help counter the acidicness (is that a word?) of the pines, wife handles it and I can't remember the name of the stuff. 

Once we get the new garden framing in place I will take your advice and compost the crap out of the areas.


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## bacpacker (Jul 15, 2011)

Take soil samples to verify what your pH is. If the pines have been dropping there for many years, it may take quite a lot to get it back in balance and a long time. pH takes patience to change. 
As far as too much water, best thing you can do is try and improve drainage whether building up the ground, opening up a path for the water to go, etc. Improve your soil condition as much as you can to get a less clay mix will help it drain quicker and dry quicker. Compost is a huge benefit for most conditions.


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## Woody (Nov 11, 2008)

I'm a little further south but believe we might have about the same conditions; red clay and granite rocks.

I moved to this place in April so a garden that year was pretty much out. It had been dry and trying to sink a shovel in was like trying to shove it in concrete, literally. I ordered a nice BCS 718 tiller and staked off my planned 30' x 40' garden area. I watered it every day for almost two weeks. Picked up my tiller and went to work. I can't remember how long it took to till down one foot but it was more than a week. I could go down an inch a pass, taking time to use a pick to get the rocks out. Every evening when I finished tilling, I watered it to soften it up for the next day. I wore the brand new tiller blades to less than nubs in that week! 

Got a new set from the local dealer (who ordered the tiller for me) and also got a load of semi-composted leaves. Actually more like last falls leaves but I needed em! I recall it being 12 yards. Dumped them on the plot and got to tilling again. I ordered an 8 yard load of "composted cow manure" from the same guy, dumped it, spread it and tilled it in. 

That fall I got another load of leaves, I think it was 8 yards, and tilled them in. I also started an herb garden (15' x 30') by tilling the crap out of that area too. I had another load of leaves dumped in an area between them and tilled a bunch in the herb garden. Talked to some neighbors and was told I would need to lime the soil. Bought a couple bags of Dolomitic lime, and put a heavy sprinkling over everything, then let it all sit for the winter. Ordered another set of tines for the tiller too.

Next spring I tilled it all and planted, got a really nice garden. I've added 8 yards of leaves for.... 10 years now and the soil looks nice and rich, with a great tilth to it. I'm at the point where I can go to a no-till lasagna garden now, I just had to create some actual soil first.

If I had to do it again? I would have someone scoop out a foot and a half of the clay and truck in a foot and a half of actual soil I could grow something in.

To answer your questions:

1. Nothing. You'll ruin the tilth if you work it. Maybe spread some Dolomitic lime so it has a chance to leach into the soil. If you can get to the area, maybe spread some compost or composted manure.

2. Shouldn't be an issue now, but if you have a damp area; leaks, celery... Think of crops that have a really high water content.

3. Dolomitic lime. It breaks down quickly so it works pretty fast. I can't recommend a certain amount, maybe buy an inexpensive test kit? As far as the pine needles? Just till them in, they will break down and the lime will help with the acidity. I read where our clay actually contains a lot of good minerals plants need, it is great stuff. You just need to lime to help make those minerals available to the plants. 

4. Compost!!! Ask around, check locally to see who delivers bulk topsoil and mulch. If you haven't done anything to the soil before, calculate a good 6" layer and have them dump it on the garden, spread and till in. Unless you spend the time to double till, it will only mix in so far down. Don't worry, next year do the same thing, or leaves in the fall, and in a few years you will have some great growing soil!

Sometimes your soil is just going to be soaked. Part of the game. I think it was two years ago, it rained all summer and I watched as my garden rotted and plants mildewed away.


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## Genevieve (Sep 21, 2009)

I looked up your state's extension service websites

http://www.agriculture.vsu.edu/special-programs/cooperative-extension/index.php

http://www.ext.vt.edu/

heres a pdf about recommended planting dates and such( its off to the right hand side)
http://www.pubs.ext.vt.edu/426/426-331/426-331.html

USE THEM! lol

I get so much help by emailing or calling my local office.

I can't tell enough people about their own state's service. Its what they're there for so use the help and info

really people find your own county's/state's office and use them. they have all kinds of services from gardening, farming, forestry and food classes to animal husbandry ( of course they don't replace a vet), 4H, etc.

Might I also say that while waiting for the ground to "whatever" ( drain, warm up) you can container garden and grow plenty in containers. I've grown everything from radishes to greenbeans and tomatoes and peppers to cabbage to lettuces to strawberries( the one time I could get strawberries to grow for me *sigh*) to carrots.

I was just out on the back deck checking what wintered over in my herbs and will be getting the large window boxes on the rail ready for radishes, lettuce, spinach and cabbage.


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## Momturtle (Nov 2, 2009)

With super wet soil and soil needing amendments, perhaps raised beds are the way to go. That way the roots are pulled up a bit from the wet, and all soil amendments will only go where actual plants will be growing. Our soil was so bad that only raised beds made any sense at all. It was like setting up a garden on a concrete pad. Over the years it has improved since we keep adding compost.


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