# Pre-computer era vehicle!



## Mase92 (Feb 4, 2013)

I have been looking for a bit now and have a chance to obtain a 1963 Chevy C10. For a midwest truck it's rust free. The price is decent and well, there isn't much you can't wrench on with those models. 

My questions are EMP related. I've done some looking but I know around here we have a few that really have a solid knowledge base on this subject. So if this has been asked before, I apologize.

What would a massive solar flare or nuclear detonation do to a car from this era? Would the plugs and wires be effected? How about the distributor and points? I know they aren't computer per say but they are electronics. Would I need back up for this truck to run after an incident like this?

Any other components of note?


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## mosquitomountainman (Jan 25, 2010)

EMP no problem! Massive nuke ... will depend on how massive and how close 

You might want to keep a spare alternator and regulator on hand but otherwise it's a good choice.


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## bacpacker (Jul 15, 2011)

I agree with MMM. In addition I would stock extra plugs, wires, points, condenser, cap, and wires. All those parts should be stocked for spares anyway, but if it's close enough I could see the condenser or points having some damage. All this stuff together won't cost much in total. If it was me, I'd have two or three sets stocked for long term use.

A 63 C10 was a very solid truck. My step dad had a 64 model. Great truck and real easy to work on. Is the one your looking at a stepside or fleetside?


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## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

The black wire from the distributor attaches to the " - " side of the coil. Loosen this nut, and add another wire that goes from the - on the coil, into the cab. Here, add a toggle switch that has one side the wire from the coil, and the other side of the switch going to a good ground.

Now - Every time you leave the vehicle, switch to "on". 
This will ground out the " - " side.

This does two things - 

It's a GREAT theft deterrent! 
It grounds the system to protect the points, condenser and coil!

Switch to "off" (to break the ground) when you want to drive!


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## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

Ohh..... another thing. 
A "battery disconnect" switch might be handy. If the diodes in the alternator get zapped, they'll run the battery down in 24 hours. I guess you could always do the same thing on the alternator wiring (disconnect switch). 

I once had a '76 Chevy with a bad alternator that every time I stopped driving it, I had to pop the hood and pull the plug on the alternator! A buddy of mine had mercy on me and gave me a good used one to swap out!


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## bacpacker (Jul 15, 2011)

Kill switch is a great idea. Had a Celia I did that to.


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## LastOutlaw (Jun 1, 2013)

Mase92 said:


> I have been looking for a bit now and have a chance to obtain a 1963 Chevy C10. For a midwest truck it's rust free. The price is decent and well, there isn't much you can't wrench on with those models.
> 
> My questions are EMP related. I've done some looking but I know around here we have a few that really have a solid knowledge base on this subject. So if this has been asked before, I apologize.
> 
> ...


Does it have the original points distributor or has someone upgraded it to HEI at some point.

If it is a HEI... you probably will need an ignition coil, points distributor and ignition resistor. These most likely would have been removed as they are not needed with HEI.

Also as was mentioned by others a spare alternator/regulator would be a good idea.

Here is a link to the resistor:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-700?seid=srese1&gclid=COTapqffusYCFQqSaQodve8N6w


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## Mase92 (Feb 4, 2013)

LastOutlaw said:


> Does it have the original points distributor or has someone upgraded it to HEI at some point.
> 
> If it is a HEI... you probably will need an ignition coil, points distributor and ignition resistor. These most likely would have been removed as they are not needed with HEI.
> 
> ...


The one I'm looking at is HEI. Sorry should have mentioned that.

Great answers everyone. Best place for advice. Planning on having a "faraday" bucket set up for auto parts I'll need. As you stated they aren't that expensive and I know the Chevy 350 is a solid engine platform.

:2thumb:


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## Tirediron (Jul 12, 2010)

If you are going to use the truck much, you probably want to leave the HEI in place, point ignition is a pain in the posterior on a good day, it might be handy if the ignition module somehow got fried, but with all of the aftermarket stuff available for the GM HEI I would be much more inclined to get a dual module harness and keep a spare set up in a faraday can (I doubt that the module is that likely to be damages from outside sources) 
The truck it's self is a good solid platform, it may have already had a disc brake upgrade.


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## LastOutlaw (Jun 1, 2013)

An old microwave makes an excellent Faraday cage.


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## zombieresponder (Aug 20, 2012)

I used to have a '62 C10. If I were you, I'd avoid '60 to '62 models. The front ends are torsion bar systems instead of coil springs, among other differences. The '63 to '66 models are better looking trucks and suspension parts are much cheaper. With the earlier 60's models, you're likely to get a 230 inline six. Nothing wrong with them, but the 250 had a little more power and there is a lot more aftermarket support. The 250 is a very good motor and will last just about forever. The 292 was better, but less common. Later 60's models also had the 283 and automatic option. I was the third owner of the '62, and the previous owner had swapped in a poorly rebuilt 250 along with a granny 4 speed. There was more wrong with that truck, some I fixed and some I didn't, but I digress.

In all honesty, I would suggest looking at the 73-87 models instead. The interiors are substantial improvements over the rather spartan early to mid sixties models, and you're far more likely to get air conditioning....which may or may not matter in your area. Parts are very cheap and easy to find. If you want to convert the electronic ignition to points, it's not a problem, and it's a lot cheaper/easier than swapping a V8 into an earlier truck. The fuel tanks are outside the cab too.

I just happened to remember something that is a serious issue with the early/mid 60's trucks and that is the braking system. To be frank, it sucks. Drums all the way around, rarely with power assist, and a single cup master cylinder. The single cup master cylinder is the biggest problem. With no separation between the front and rear circuits, a blown wheel cylinder or a cracked line will leave you with *no* brakes. You can swap in a dual cup master cylinder, power assist, and front discs, but that's more money and effort. On my '62, the parking brake components had been torched out of the rear axle, which I missed before buying it. From what dad told me when we found it later, that wasn't uncommon.

Interesting side note: 1963 was the first year for the alternator in the C10.


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## Tirediron (Jul 12, 2010)

Ok now the good points of the '63 to '72 trucks, coil spring/ track arm rear suspension, if you want traction and ride quality, they weigh a whole bunch less. 
The bad the stock brakes were a joke at best, as mentioned above. 
the behind the seat fuel tank. parts are harder to find, 

Really old trucks are cool, BUT they will all have their problems, at anything approaching 20 years the wiring will start to give problems.


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## boss429 (May 10, 2012)

There has been extensive testing on computer cars for EMPs and the worst that happened is the car cut off only to be easily restarted if it cut off at all. All car computers are enclosed in a metal box(besides the body of the car) just as you would protect your comm gear or PC. Working on many cars over the last 40 years has taught me that in a survival situation I want the newest car I can get or at least 1996 (OBD2) or newer. A points and condenser car needs maint every 15000ish miles, a computer car every 60000ish. Beside you can buy a portable ignition box you can put on most cars to make run bypassing the factory system with just a few hookups depending on the car model. Besides your average parts store today has to order points and condensers so your not going to find them in local parts store ruins. Don't forget carburetor cars hate weird fuel like the stuff they sell today with ethanol, good luck finding a carb rebuild kit which the ethanol will just eat up anyway.


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## Balls004 (Feb 28, 2015)

It sounds like a good plan to me, Mase. I'd leave the HEI system in and just get a points and condenser distributor to keep as a back up. HEI is a lot better for everyday use.

As far as getting a/c or other comfort items, I wouldn't take that into account unless this is going to be your primary vehicle. If it's just going to be an occasional driver and a post SHTF truck, you probably won't miss that stuff, and it's one more thing that can break.

just my 2 cents...


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## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

boss429 said:


> Besides you can buy a portable ignition box you can put on most cars to make run bypassing the factory system with just a few hookups depending on the car model....


No, that is not true at all.

Even an SDS-EFI or MegaSquirt system takes SIGNIFICANT effort to make work.

Some modern engine can have a few mods do to get some rudimentary ignition system working if you bolt a carb on in place of a throttle body, but that isn't easy to do at all either.


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## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

Balls004 said:


> I'd leave the HEI system in and just get a points and condenser distributor to keep as a back up. HEI is a lot better for everyday use....


The ONLY thing I don't like about HEI is the module is inside the distributor. MSD makes a small & simple harness that hooks up to the pick-up coil wires inside to have a module outside (for quick and easy module change, if needed).

HEI modules are DURABLE and small. 
I bought a truck that had experienced a bad engine fire and the distributor had melted pretty bad, but I thought just not quite bad enough that I *might* make it work again. I changed the cap, coil and plugs wires, but left the module mounted inside alone (just to see...). 
It fired up and ran just fine!! So, What's the melting temp of aluminum?!?!

You can fit a couple modules in a pack of 100's smokes (Hey, it's already foil-lined!).

Every person on this earth that wants to make a vehicle run post-EMP should know what an HEI module is, and how to make their GM, Ford, or Dodge vehicle run again by using one.


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## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

HEI module swap instructions for point ignitions!

http://home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/Ignition/GPZheiModForPoints.html


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## Balls004 (Feb 28, 2015)

LincTex said:


> HEI module swap instructions for point ignitions!
> 
> http://home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/Ignition/GPZheiModForPoints.html


So are they using the points as a hall effect switch? I'm confused here. Seems overly complicated and prone to be a general pain in the butt over the long haul. Not saying it won't work, but don't understand the theory behind it.


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## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

Balls004 said:


> So are they using the points as a hall effect switch? I'm confused here. Seems overly complicated and prone to be a general pain in the butt over the long haul. Not saying it won't work, but don't understand the theory behind it.


Not sure - - - I haven't actually tried his method.
Points cannot simulate "hall effect".

Many engines can be VERY difficult to replace the points with some other triggering device (such the ones running off of the OHC in a motorcycle).

The biggest drawback to points is burning the contacts due to amperage flow, sooo....

What if the points only have to handle a few milliamps instead?
The Ford TFI module can be used as a "points amplifier" (read: big, fat spark!)

Check this out! I'm going to convert a Farmall H and report back!

Points to Electronic Ignition Cheap & Easy (Old Forklift engine)
http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/points-to-electronic-ignition-cheap-easy.417099/

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tfi-using-points-how-to.374699/

Use of electronic ignition modules with points distributors
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46672&sid=ee54343e9dd66f27ba6b39aaa6d3c2aa

http://www.gofastforless.com/ignition/tfi.htm
Better Dirt Cheap Electronic Ignition

http://www.gofastforless.com/ignition/electronic.htm


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## Balls004 (Feb 28, 2015)

LincTex said:


> Not sure - - - I haven't actually tried his method.
> Points cannot simulate "hall effect".
> 
> Many engines can be VERY difficult to replace the points with some other triggering device (such the ones running off of the OHC in a motorcycle).
> ...


Go Guinea Pig!

I'm looking forward to hearing how this goes!


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## Tirediron (Jul 12, 2010)

The beauty of Linc doing a test is that he actually understands what is going on and can provide real reasons as to why something does or doesn't work.


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## Balls004 (Feb 28, 2015)

Tirediron said:


> The beauty of Linc doing a test is that he actually understands what is going on and can provide real reasons as to why something does or doesn't work.


I agree! I'm an ASE certified tech, and I listen to what he says. If it wouldn't make him blush, I'd start a thread titled "Ask Linc!"


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