# BOV--Jeep Wrangler



## Padre (Oct 7, 2011)

So... I have decided to invest in a BOV and have about 10k which I can invest in a vehicle. After a little thought I have decided on the classic Jeep.

I would like to buy or modify it 
with a lift kit
off road wheels and tires
forward and rear crash bars
a tow hitch (and small trailer)
a snorkel

AND a LP/LNG conversion. 

I don't know much about cars, but have a mechanic friend who is helping me buy a solid truck and I was hoping would help me out with some of the modifications.

So, my question for this thread is threefold.

1) What do you think about the car choice? Any alternatives I should consider in the 10k ball park?

2) What do you think about the modifications I am considering? Any recommendations on specific part manufacturers or other mods I should consider?

3) Has anyone put in a LP/LNG adapter into a truck? I understand that propane was a common modification people made before the price of propane started rising. I have read about making a generator motor tri-fuel, and it seems to me the same concept would work. I would love some pointers.


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## JustCliff (May 21, 2011)

What is your reasoning on putting an LP conversion on a BOV?
I ask because you will be very limited on fuel.


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## mdprepper (Jan 22, 2010)

I am sure NaeKid will chime in soon. After all he is *THE JEEP GURU*!!!!

All I can say is I just got a 91 Wrangler YJ and I LOVE it.


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## 1969cj-5 (Sep 14, 2011)

Pre 1971 jeeps have fewer available mods on the aftermarket. I know, I have 2. You can however go crazy building your own mods for the older jeeps. If I was going to start another jeep I would go for a Mid 1980's Scrambler and swap in a SBC or a 4BT Cummins.

Dang it now I have the Jeep bug again. *You Padre *are not going to be on my wife's Christmas Card list this year.


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## NaeKid (Oct 17, 2008)

My buddy and I built his Jeep exactly as you describe, propane and everything. It worked very well, but, he lost the use of the back of the Jeep (rear-seat area) due to the size of the propane-tanks needed to keep his Chevy SmallBlock 400ci fed. His Jeep wore 40" Boggers, 9,000lb winch on front, full cage inside, DetroitLocker in the front and spool in the rear with a TH350 transmission and NP205 transfer-case. 

What we did for the fueling was to mount the fill-port in the stock location on the back driver's side, cut out the floor and moved it up about 8", re-welded the floor into place, welded in a spacer and then did a 4" body-lift so that the twin-tanks would be supported by the frame-rails. The conversion from gasoline to propane in his Jeep was about 4-months of weekends to complete, primarily due to the body modifications required to fit the tanks in place.

He averaged about 450km per fill (280 miles) and had a cheater-port/hose so that a simple 20lb propane tank could be used as a JerryCan. We did not do his Jeep as dual-fuel - not enough room in a Jeep to run two fuel-sources.


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## tac803 (Nov 21, 2010)

I have an 03 Wrangler, and have to say that lack of space is a major drawback to it being a great BOV. My other suggestion as a top priority is to put good tires on it.


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## ajsmith (Feb 1, 2010)

I have a '94 Wrangler and I have to agree with tac803 about the space limitations. Only because I have a wife and a 9 year old daughter. An XJ Cherokee or an FSJ would be a better choice for me. To make up for the space limitations you could always add on some external racks to put extra stuff. I don't think I would go with the propane either, but that's a personal choice, I like my gas engines. If you think it will meet your needs and it feels right...go for it. 

Just my 2 cents worth..........:dunno:


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## SixGunsRattlesnake (Feb 9, 2012)

I prefer a Cherokee over the wrangler, for cargo reasons. 

My rig:

Push bar, winch, several hook/shackle points. Lights, spare battery. Without a trailer I can carry 20 extra gallons of fuel. Stretches my range to 650 miles give or take but severely hampers what else I carry.

So I am currently working on a light trailer that I can tear down and build a shelter with while carrying more fuel and food as well.


I started with a 700 dollar jeep and I am no where near 10k invested. With registration and a full year of insurance i think I am around 4k with brand new rubber... After my trailer I doubt I'd be over 5k. With a 10k budget I could do wonders on a rig and trailer combo....


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## longtime (Nov 22, 2009)

I have to agree with sixguns. I have a very well built 2001 TJ that is converted to run on CNG/gasoline. It's nice toy, but I would be my last selection for a BOV, Cherokee ( or similar) is much better.


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## SierraM37 (Nov 2, 2008)

*Rubicon - But pricey*

OK - I picked this up not as a primary BOV, but because I do a lot of wheeling, live less than an hour from the Rubicon Trail up here in the Sierra Nevada and am looking to start a jeep rental business. See my other posts on my 1952 M37.

I've restored a 1967 CJ5, dropped a 327 into it and it was scary. Too much power, too narrow, too short a wheel base and traded it for a paint job on my house. That was back in 1984.

I picked up the Rubicon a year ago for only $23K and built it like you see. Not overbuilt, not a long arm kit, but have no problems with Rubicon or Fordyce trails up here. with the lockers and Dana 44's, it will go almost anywhere I point it.

If I was starting a project from scratch, it would either be a starter JKU (4 door wrangler) that I'd build up or Second would be the ZJ platform - Cherokee, Grand Cherokee. Nothing wrong with the YJ wranglers either. JKs are a little wider and longer and have more creature comforts.

The stock 6 in these things (YJ, ZJ) run forever. They (ZJ) and non Rubicon YJ typically come with D30's front and rear so upgrade to D44's, selectable locker in atleast the rear and you'll want to lift either a YJ, CJ, JK, ZJ or what have you to run 35" tires. Tires are the ONLY thing that get your differential off the ground. A 9" lift just looks stupid, the geometry get's all F'd up and they are death traps. The lower the center of gravity, the better. 35's are good for almost anything your going to need to do and bigger will require a differential gear change. Putting long arm kit's on these can also require a swap out of the drive shafts. Mess with one thing here, gotta change another thing over there add's up quickly.


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## SixGunsRattlesnake (Feb 9, 2012)

SierraM37 said:


> Tires are the ONLY thing that get your differential off the ground. A 9" lift just looks stupid, the geometry get's all F'd up and they are death traps. The lower the center of gravity, the better. 35's are good for almost anything your going to need to do and bigger will require a differential gear change. Putting long arm kit's on these can also require a swap out of the drive shafts. Mess with one thing here, gotta change another thing over there add's up quickly.


Well said. I love seeing 'street fairies' on huge lifts. Makes me smile. I put a lot of thought into lift and tires. I run 30s on a 3inch lift and am very satisfied.


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