# Mid Size vs Full Size SUV



## guardsman79 (Feb 12, 2017)

Looking to add another vehicle to the stable. I've already got a ram 1500 4x4 with some nice additions for survival. Looking at getting a SUV next. What's everyone's thoughts on mid size vs full size SUV's? I'm mainly looking between a hummer h3/durango or a tahoe/suburban.


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## Flight1630 (Jan 4, 2017)

H3 look good but they there gross vehicle weight I think really isn't that good.
This is from Wikipedia and don't know how to do quotes from app.


The*4,700-pound (2,132 kg) H3's 16 mpg‑US*(15 L/100 km; 19 mpg‑imp) average in city traffic cleared the required Japanese emissions standards relative to its weight.


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## guardsman79 (Feb 12, 2017)

Flight1630 said:


> H3 look good but they there gross vehicle weight I think really isn't that good.
> This is from Wikipedia and don't know how to do quotes from app.
> 
> The*4,700-pound (2,132 kg) H3's 16 mpg‑US*(15 L/100 km; 19 mpg‑imp) average in city traffic cleared the required Japanese emissions standards relative to its weight.


Just through the H3 in as a example. I"m looking at all the brands. Comparing parts vs aftermarket vs size vs mpg, just everything. Looking for others input that have or have had such a vehicle for BOV/survival.


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## Flight1630 (Jan 4, 2017)

I would look at a full size SUV myself. One that would be fairly easy to work on. So to me anyways it would be a 90s or older vehicle. I can't work on the new stuff much. Heck I can't even change my rear brakes on my 2005 G6 I need some special tool to do that properly.


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## jnrdesertrats (Jul 3, 2010)

We had H3's for work they sucked gas and we're gutless Pos.


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## Tirediron (Jul 12, 2010)

the 97 to 99 Yukon / Tahoe were very well built, door handles and fuel gauge senders are the known glitches. they are OBD 2 but still fixable, I would stay away from GM mid size, the body mounts tended to rust out long before the chassis wore out ( the drive train is pretty solid) and they aren't really any better on fuel than the full size.


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## Sentry18 (Aug 5, 2012)

I drive two Chevy Tahoes (which I love), one at work and one at home. My wife drives a very recent model GMC Acadia Denali (which she loves). Mine feels like a large rugged sport utility vehicle that works on road and off. Hers feels like an AWD luxury car on a lift kit that does it's best work dropping girls off at ballet and going to fancy restaurants on date night. So I vote Tahoe/Suburban, unless the vehicle is mainly driven by someone wearing yoga pants to get a coffee drink at a specialty drive through window before heading to the spa for a pedicure. Which is clearly why the GMC Acadia Denali exists.


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## Pessimistic2 (Jan 26, 2017)

Sentry18 said:


> I drive two Chevy Tahoes (which I love), one at work and one at home. My wife drives a very recent model GMC Acadia Denali (which she loves). Mine feels like a large rugged sport utility vehicle that works on road and off. Hers feels like an AWD luxury car on a lift kit that does it's best work dropping girls off at ballet and going to fancy restaurants on date night. So I vote Tahoe/Suburban, unless the vehicle is mainly driven by someone wearing yoga pants to get a coffee drink at a specialty drive through window before heading to the spa for a pedicure. Which is clearly why the GMC Acadia Denali exists.


Gets my vote...I have a Tahoe, love it!! :wave:


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## RedBeard (May 8, 2017)

The old k5 blazers. Will go anywere. Easy to work on and lots of parts. Plus the 350 will run and different fuels. Or a jeep with a 4.0 or 4.2 straight sixes.


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## Siskiyoumom (Apr 29, 2017)

Totally depends on the "why" of your needs. Is the rig for you solely or will it be the primary drive for a family member? What is the driving range you need on a tank of gas? Will it be a back up rig or the primary commuter rig? What driving conditions do expect it to be in?

We have no kiddos and do transport our for kids in our Tacoma. We use 4 WD and deal with icy/snowy roads for a good part of the year. Do you need to be able to tow a trailer?

We also have a RAV 4. It carries our work gear nicely. We do have buyers regret in no getting 4WD due to the issue if having to to replace all tires if one is ruined due to an unrepairable flat.

We finally found a nice aggressive eight ply tire for it online.

If type of fuel and mileage is important then factor that in as well. 

The RAV 4 is comfortable and easy to take on not too extreme forest service roads but does not have the agility of a true 4WD rig.

I would much rather have a 4WD rig and am thinking of a quad cab Toyota once I retire. Good fortune to you in your quest.


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## RedBeard (May 8, 2017)

You would actually be amazed where a rav 4 can go..... But Toyota makes a great rig!


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## Flight1630 (Jan 4, 2017)

Found this site, hopefully it gives you a better idea as to what might work for you.

http://www.askaprepper.com/vehicles-emp-survival/


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## RedBeard (May 8, 2017)

One thing they are not telling you is that even the old engines have parts that an emp blast will fry. Like the very first one. The harley still has a coil to send out spark, emp can still fry it. The older rigs still have points, condensers, and coils. Points will make it out ok but the condenser and coil will fry. Emps are not a smart bomb, it's not designed to take out just modern electronics its made to fry all electronics. Also with a vehicle that is points and condenser old good luck getting parts. I had a 66 scout 800. Came factory with a 4cyl and a stick shift. Parts are hard enough to get as it is now that i converted the axles, tranny, transfer, and engine over from an 86 k5 blazer. Because most importantly chevy truck and blazer drivetrain parts ate a dime a dozen and everywhere. In my opinion that list just features some really cool rides, because good luck fibding parts for a vw thing when the end comes.


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## readytogo (Apr 6, 2013)

!989 Astro Van ,last year before technology took over and ruin them ,seats a bunch seats can come off for plenty of loading space at home depot and easy to maintain and fix. But the logical question applies ,How big is to big? Do you really need a monster truck to get you around town and wasted all that fuel ,I guess money has a lot to do with it ,some people loved to show it and wasted .If practicality had anything to do with it a nice VW classic Thing or Bus will be the thing to get or maybe a nice CJ Jeep with a trailer and winch ,but they don`t have the fancy electronics or drive by wire system that a little $.10 cent fuse can put out of commission and people are attracted too. Many people who buy this big monsters have no idea what makes them rum or even how to change a EMC fuse or clear a system code and in a emergency the only thing they can do is a tow truck to the dealer. Now what kind of preparedness is that .


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## RedBeard (May 8, 2017)

I was thinking about it and if you were going through the trouble of having an emp proof cage an msd ignition box, the universal one that does 4,6, and 8 cly engines, would be a good thing to have. I have a really old one that i have used on different rigs over the years to get them running.


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## Jim1590 (Jul 11, 2012)

Whatever you go with, find a owners forum. Recently got a 2004 Durango 4.0L. Seems they have a leaky windshield wiper cowel that is annoying on the 4.0L but on the 5.0L Hemi, water gets into the cylinders and causes hydrolock and bending a shaft.

I was lucky on that one.


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## forluvofsmoke (Jan 27, 2012)

Gen-II Durango owner here. 4.7L 5-Spd Auto, full-time AWD. Stock all the way. Ground clearance is decent for off-road, and approach/departure angles are good for what it is. I'm getting 18-19 MPG with mixed driving, commuting 90 mi/day. Even with skins for tires last winter it handled slush, wet snow, ice and hard-pack surprisingly well. Have new AT tires now and heavy rains @ 65-75 MPH don't even make me uncomfortable. Had the opportunity to run the new tires through some heavy snow several times and never had a hick-up. The 5,800lb tow capacity makes the Durango an attractive option for many...might even be higher with the 5.7 Hemi (available in the D from '04-'09, '11-present).

I wish I still had my 2000 2500 Suburban...that was a beast with a 343HP 6.0L from a '04, but the D will work out fine for me...and uses about 30% less gas.

Whatever you decide to roll with, run-out or save the current tires and get tires that suit your driving needs. If you're in a fair-weather area with little to no snow, or you don't for-see much off-road use, then a typical highway tire will do. Otherwise look into AT or MS rated tires. Dedicated mud tires are nice, if you can stand the noise. Oh, don't fall into the snow-tire trap...those are NOT suitable for summer temperatures and are prone to catastrophic failure due to overheating, especially @ highway speed. You need 2 sets of tires and wheels if you'll be running snow tires for winter...I never understood why anyone would want do that, but to each his own.


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## Flight1630 (Jan 4, 2017)

A little bigger then a full size SUV but.......

http://z1035.com/nova-scotia-town-might-want-give-away-military-vehicle/


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