# Iron Has Thrown A Wrench In Aquaponic



## Meerkat

I was all gung ho about this until I found out how much it will cost and the formula getting this very important nutrient to the plants.

Iron has to be chelated for soilless growing. I have read up on foliage feeding. This seems to be contraversal too

Other than iron and a nitrate tester and filter we are ready to go, fish have grown considerately.

Any suggestions?


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## Wellrounded

Cheap chelated iron is available here as slug and snail pellets. Not sure if you have the same stuff available to you. It's chelated with EDTA like most ag iron. I'm in a fortunate situation here, my well water is just about perfect for growing aquatic plants. Pain in the bottom though when it comes to keeping stock troughs clean.


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## Meerkat

Wellrounded said:


> Cheap chelated iron is available here as slug and snail pellets. Not sure if you have the same stuff available to you. It's chelated with EDTA like most ag iron. I'm in a fortunate situation here, my well water is just about perfect for growing aquatic plants. Pain in the bottom though when it comes to keeping stock troughs clean.


 We have plenty of iron in our well too, but the problem there is it can't get to the plants like in soil. Something about positive and negative ions in soil that's lacking in water.

I appreciate the info and will check info on the EDTA.

Some are working with barley for chelating but that's just now being researched. Actually I think its in the barley roots not the whole plant.


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## Boomy

Barley will kill the algea in the water. Supprised that it wouldn't have an effect in the ecosystem? What about Ironite?
Or just go to a local head shop. Bet they could lend you some good advice on "Hydro". Just saying, might use all the unlikely resources that might be around...


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## Meerkat

Boomy said:


> Barley will kill the algea in the water. Supprised that it wouldn't have an effect in the ecosystem? What about Ironite?
> Or just go to a local head shop. Bet they could lend you some good advice on "Hydro". Just saying, might use all the unlikely resources that might be around...


 LOL,I bet they could, but they may not be as concerned with the chemicals they use for their 'crops 'lol.

What is ironite? Is it chelated or water soluble?


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## Boomy

Its an iron supplement for lawns.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Survival Forum mobile app


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## UniqueOldGal

Meerkat said:


> I was all gung ho about this until I found out how much it will cost and the formula getting this very important nutrient to the plants.
> 
> Iron has to be chelated for soilless growing. I have read up on foliage feeding. This seems to be contraversal too
> 
> Other than iron and a nitrate tester and filter we are ready to go, fish have grown considerately.
> 
> Any suggestions?


My fish food Has "ferrous sulfate" (iron) in it. Doesn't the fish poop have enough iron in a usable form released into your aquaponics water?

edit added: My aquaponics book says that you put redworms into the plant medium that you are running your fish water into. The worms make all the fish poop nutrients including the minor Micro nutrient of iron available to the plants.............


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## Meerkat

UniqueOldGal said:


> My fish food Has "ferrous sulfate" (iron) in it. Doesn't the fish poop have enough iron in a usable form released into your aquaponics water?


 From what I understand iron can't be absorbed into plants in water. It has something to do with the electrical charges of the metal. In the soil you have positive and negative ion's. Its complicated plant science.

So it has to be broken down aka chelated for the plants to take up the iron. All other nutrients like potassium can be used by applying Epsom salts but not iron in its natural form.

I took a little bity of this in Hort 20 years ago' plant science 'I passed that semester but forgot imore than I learned it was brain drain. I was middle aged too.

Somebody said you can feed iron thru the foliage but others say u can't.

Meanwhile we will start back the hydroponics until we can do more research.


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## Wellrounded

Meerkat said:


> We have plenty of iron in our well too, but the problem there is it can't get to the plants like in soil. Something about positive and negative ions in soil that's lacking in water.
> 
> I appreciate the info and will check info on the EDTA.
> 
> Some are working with barley for chelating but that's just now being researched. Actually I think its in the barley roots not the whole plant.


We have both forms of iron in our well water, so we get great plant growth and gluppy muck from it . The best plant for natural chelation via roots is ryegrass.

Once you get a mature gravel bed/filter going you'll find a fair bit of natural chelation happening via the bacteria living there.

Keep the pH down....6.5 is good, the oxygen up 8ppm and the iron at around 2ppm (although I try for 4ppm) in new beds and everything else will follow. If at all possible get some media from an old filter or gravel bed, it'll put you a month or more ahead.


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## LincTex

Boomy said:


> Barley will kill the algea in the water.


Interesting....

http://www.chemungcountyswcd.com/Barley Straw.htm

Control of Pond Algae Using Barley Straw

If you are a pond owner, you are well aware of the problems that algae can cause. There are some very effective chemicals that can be used to control algae, but they are very expensive and require a permit from the State, not to mention the adverse affects chemicals can cause if used incorrectly. There is a biological alternative, Barley Straw. The following paragraphs will inform you about the use of this simple material to control problem algae in your pond.

BARLEY STRAW is inexpensive and healthier for your fish and plants than chemicals. Barley straw has been used for centuries in Europe to maintain fish and garden pond water quality. It has been proven environmentally safe.

TYPE OF STRAW TO USE: Barley straw is more effective and works for longer periods than wheat or other straws. The variety of barley straw does not seem to have any effect on the performance. Hay should never be used as it increases algae growth and it decomposes very rapidly which may cause a deoxygenating of the water. Barley straw will not kill existing algae, it is not a pesticide. Rather it creates a unique pond environment which discourages any unwanted growth while not harming any plant or animal habitants.

NATURAL vs. HERBICIDES: The growth rate of algae makes it very difficult to control. There are many forms of algae and most are susceptible to herbicide use. The problem with using herbicides is that it also will kill your other plants and once the chemical is gone from the water, the re-growth of algae will reappear and subsequently become worse years later. Natural solutions are safer and more cost effective.

HOW DOES BARLEY STRAW WORK? As the straw decomposes in the water, byproducts are released creating a unique environment. The temperature of the water is an important factor. If the water temp is 40 degrees it may take up to 2 weeks for the straw to become active. When the water temperature is above 40 degrees the straw becomes active faster. In about a week the straw should begin to release it's chemical, given sufficient sunlight and oxygen.

Well oxygenated conditions are essential to ensure the straw will decompose and produce it's chemical. If the straw is in a compacted state with restricted water movement through the straw, the effectiveness is extremely reduced.

WILL BARLEY STRAW HARM FISH OR PLANTS? Barley straw does not harm fish or plant life. Actually in most cases it increases the invertebrate population providing a food source for fish. In fish farms and hatcheries where straw has been used, there are reports of improved gill function and better overall fish health.

HOW AND WHERE TO APPLY THE STRAW?

In ponds, the straw should be wrapped loosely in some type of netting that will allow water to flow through. To be most effective, place the bundle of straw on the up wind side to let wind currents help carry the straw by products across the pond. As the straw decomposes it will sink.

Some sort of float should be attached to keep it partially out of the water. The straw needs a continuous exposure to both water and oxygen. Keeping the straw oxygenated will help the barley decompose thus releasing the byproducts.

WHEN SHOULD BARLEY STRAW BE ADDED?

Barley straw should be added very early in the spring. It is best to apply when the water temp is low. Time should be given (about 30 days) for the straw to become active. Once activated, the straw will create the unique environment for up to 6 months. A replacement bundle should be added before the first bundle is completely decomposed. Two applications should be enough for one year. Ponds that have a high content of suspended mud it may be necessary to add more straw than in clear waters as the byproducts can be slowly inactivated by the mud.

HOW MUCH TO USE? If used proactively before the pond is over run with algae, a common recommendation would be 20lbs of straw for every 1/4 acre of pond surface area. Thus an average bale of straw weighing 40lbs should treat a 1/4 acre pond for a year. In ponds with a history of heavy algae growth, two to three times that amount may be required at first.

CAN IT BE OVER DONE? The straw is not known to be directly hazardous, but anything that decays in water in large quantities will reduce dissolved oxygen levels. This in not likely a problem unless the barley is massively overdosed (more than ten times normal) and the pond is already oxygen limited by over stocking fish, or the decomposition of other organic materials such as leaves.


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## Meerkat

Wellrounded said:


> We have both forms of iron in our well water, so we get great plant growth and gluppy muck from it . The best plant for natural chelation via roots is ryegrass.
> 
> Once you get a mature gravel bed/filter going you'll find a fair bit of natural chelation happening via the bacteria living there.
> 
> Keep the pH down....6.5 is good, the oxygen up 8ppm and the iron at around 2ppm (although I try for 4ppm) in new beds and everything else will follow. If at all possible get some media from an old filter or gravel bed, it'll put you a month or more ahead.


 Thanks for the info. Every bit helps with this new adventure. I'll check into this further.:wave:



LincTex said:


> Interesting....
> 
> http://www.chemungcountyswcd.com/Barley Straw.htm
> 
> Control of Pond Algae Using Barley Straw
> 
> If you are a pond owner, you are well aware of the problems that algae can cause. There are some very effective chemicals that can be used to control algae, but they are very expensive and require a permit from the State, not to mention the adverse affects chemicals can cause if used incorrectly. There is a biological alternative, Barley Straw. The following paragraphs will inform you about the use of this simple material to control problem algae in your pond.
> 
> BARLEY STRAW is inexpensive and healthier for your fish and plants than chemicals. Barley straw has been used for centuries in Europe to maintain fish and garden pond water quality. It has been proven environmentally safe.
> 
> TYPE OF STRAW TO USE: Barley straw is more effective and works for longer periods than wheat or other straws. The variety of barley straw does not seem to have any effect on the performance. Hay should never be used as it increases algae growth and it decomposes very rapidly which may cause a deoxygenating of the water. Barley straw will not kill existing algae, it is not a pesticide. Rather it creates a unique pond environment which discourages any unwanted growth while not harming any plant or animal habitants.
> 
> NATURAL vs. HERBICIDES: The growth rate of algae makes it very difficult to control. There are many forms of algae and most are susceptible to herbicide use. The problem with using herbicides is that it also will kill your other plants and once the chemical is gone from the water, the re-growth of algae will reappear and subsequently become worse years later. Natural solutions are safer and more cost effective.
> 
> HOW DOES BARLEY STRAW WORK? As the straw decomposes in the water, byproducts are released creating a unique environment. The temperature of the water is an important factor. If the water temp is 40 degrees it may take up to 2 weeks for the straw to become active. When the water temperature is above 40 degrees the straw becomes active faster. In about a week the straw should begin to release it's chemical, given sufficient sunlight and oxygen.
> 
> Well oxygenated conditions are essential to ensure the straw will decompose and produce it's chemical. If the straw is in a compacted state with restricted water movement through the straw, the effectiveness is extremely reduced.
> 
> WILL BARLEY STRAW HARM FISH OR PLANTS? Barley straw does not harm fish or plant life. Actually in most cases it increases the invertebrate population providing a food source for fish. In fish farms and hatcheries where straw has been used, there are reports of improved gill function and better overall fish health.
> 
> HOW AND WHERE TO APPLY THE STRAW?
> 
> In ponds, the straw should be wrapped loosely in some type of netting that will allow water to flow through. To be most effective, place the bundle of straw on the up wind side to let wind currents help carry the straw by products across the pond. As the straw decomposes it will sink.
> 
> Some sort of float should be attached to keep it partially out of the water. The straw needs a continuous exposure to both water and oxygen. Keeping the straw oxygenated will help the barley decompose thus releasing the byproducts.
> 
> WHEN SHOULD BARLEY STRAW BE ADDED?
> 
> Barley straw should be added very early in the spring. It is best to apply when the water temp is low. Time should be given (about 30 days) for the straw to become active. Once activated, the straw will create the unique environment for up to 6 months. A replacement bundle should be added before the first bundle is completely decomposed. Two applications should be enough for one year. Ponds that have a high content of suspended mud it may be necessary to add more straw than in clear waters as the byproducts can be slowly inactivated by the mud.
> 
> HOW MUCH TO USE? If used proactively before the pond is over run with algae, a common recommendation would be 20lbs of straw for every 1/4 acre of pond surface area. Thus an average bale of straw weighing 40lbs should treat a 1/4 acre pond for a year. In ponds with a history of heavy algae growth, two to three times that amount may be required at first.
> 
> CAN IT BE OVER DONE? The straw is not known to be directly hazardous, but anything that decays in water in large quantities will reduce dissolved oxygen levels. This in not likely a problem unless the barley is massively overdosed (more than ten times normal) and the pond is already oxygen limited by over stocking fish, or the decomposition of other organic materials such as leaves.


 Thanks. I am looking into the barley for natural chelation. Our pond is about 8x5'. About 3' deep. Its a precast plastic pond from Lowes. We use pea gravel and it worked great for hydroponics last year. It can be cleaned and used forever unlike the other materials. We have buckets and reservoir. Small scale for now its just us 2 here so that's plenty. Plus we use raised beds for many other plants in soil.:wave:


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## Meerkat

LincTex said:


> Interesting....
> 
> http://www.chemungcountyswcd.com/Barley Straw.htm
> 
> Control of Pond Algae Using Barley Straw
> 
> If you are a pond owner, you are well aware of the problems that algae can cause. There are some very effective chemicals that can be used to control algae, but they are very expensive and require a permit from the State, not to mention the adverse affects chemicals can cause if used incorrectly. There is a biological alternative, Barley Straw. The following paragraphs will inform you about the use of this simple material to control problem algae in your pond.
> 
> BARLEY STRAW is inexpensive and healthier for your fish and plants than chemicals. Barley straw has been used for centuries in Europe to maintain fish and garden pond water quality. It has been proven environmentally safe.
> 
> TYPE OF STRAW TO USE: Barley straw is more effective and works for longer periods than wheat or other straws. The variety of barley straw does not seem to have any effect on the performance. Hay should never be used as it increases algae growth and it decomposes very rapidly which may cause a deoxygenating of the water. Barley straw will not kill existing algae, it is not a pesticide. Rather it creates a unique pond environment which discourages any unwanted growth while not harming any plant or animal habitants.
> 
> NATURAL vs. HERBICIDES: The growth rate of algae makes it very difficult to control. There are many forms of algae and most are susceptible to herbicide use. The problem with using herbicides is that it also will kill your other plants and once the chemical is gone from the water, the re-growth of algae will reappear and subsequently become worse years later. Natural solutions are safer and more cost effective.
> 
> HOW DOES BARLEY STRAW WORK? As the straw decomposes in the water, byproducts are released creating a unique environment. The temperature of the water is an important factor. If the water temp is 40 degrees it may take up to 2 weeks for the straw to become active. When the water temperature is above 40 degrees the straw becomes active faster. In about a week the straw should begin to release it's chemical, given sufficient sunlight and oxygen.
> 
> Well oxygenated conditions are essential to ensure the straw will decompose and produce it's chemical. If the straw is in a compacted state with restricted water movement through the straw, the effectiveness is extremely reduced.
> 
> WILL BARLEY STRAW HARM FISH OR PLANTS? Barley straw does not harm fish or plant life. Actually in most cases it increases the invertebrate population providing a food source for fish. In fish farms and hatcheries where straw has been used, there are reports of improved gill function and better overall fish health.
> 
> HOW AND WHERE TO APPLY THE STRAW?
> 
> In ponds, the straw should be wrapped loosely in some type of netting that will allow water to flow through. To be most effective, place the bundle of straw on the up wind side to let wind currents help carry the straw by products across the pond. As the straw decomposes it will sink.
> 
> Some sort of float should be attached to keep it partially out of the water. The straw needs a continuous exposure to both water and oxygen. Keeping the straw oxygenated will help the barley decompose thus releasing the byproducts.
> 
> WHEN SHOULD BARLEY STRAW BE ADDED?
> 
> Barley straw should be added very early in the spring. It is best to apply when the water temp is low. Time should be given (about 30 days) for the straw to become active. Once activated, the straw will create the unique environment for up to 6 months. A replacement bundle should be added before the first bundle is completely decomposed. Two applications should be enough for one year. Ponds that have a high content of suspended mud it may be necessary to add more straw than in clear waters as the byproducts can be slowly inactivated by the mud.
> 
> HOW MUCH TO USE? If used proactively before the pond is over run with algae, a common recommendation would be 20lbs of straw for every 1/4 acre of pond surface area. Thus an average bale of straw weighing 40lbs should treat a 1/4 acre pond for a year. In ponds with a history of heavy algae growth, two to three times that amount may be required at first.
> 
> CAN IT BE OVER DONE? The straw is not known to be directly hazardous, but anything that decays in water in large quantities will reduce dissolved oxygen levels. This in not likely a problem unless the barley is massively overdosed (more than ten times normal) and the pond is already oxygen limited by over stocking fish, or the decomposition of other organic materials such as leaves.


 With all of the great replies here and a little more study we will try Aquaponic this coming spring. We bought the gold fish 13 months ago so they are growing now into a nice size.

With the well water and barley ,maybe a little ryegrass to boot we may be ok.

Will change to more suitable fish once we get the hang of it. May also check into IBC containers. Thank yall.


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## Meerkat

Some more info on this kind of gardening.


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