# Bug Out Vehicle: Jeep Wrangler



## JoshSelf

As I begin this I am aware that there are constant debates on what vehicle is best. Many will disagree and agree with my choice, but it suits my needs. 
Vehicle: 2006 Jeep Wrangler; 94xxx miles, 6 speed manual, 6 cylinder, 4.0 liter, and modifications.
-when purchased (1.5 yrs ago) it was mostly stock
Additions/ modifications: 
-4500 pound tow package w/ wiring
-2 inch lift (wanted more clearance w/o sacrificing mpg harshly and creating further mods to be made)
-32 inch BF Goodrich All Terrain tires
-dick kepek offroad wheels (will be painted black if needed. They are noticeable now with some chrome)
-made chrome on grill black
-rust proofing (living in Ohio it is needed for winter)
-added a hi-lift jack w/ homemade roll bar mount
-full steel bumper with recovery points
-9500 lbs winch w/ synthetic line
-bed lined the entire tub and tail gate
-created recovery gear box with essentials and basic survival gear
-DIY rear tie-down points for cargo
-purchased jerry cans and plastic water cans
-grab handles
-MOLLE webbing on roll bars
-homemade auxiliary fuse block
-rock lights
-upgraded battery terminal adapters
-CB radio, antenna, and PA system 
-upgraded stock headlights to KC daylighters; I have HID bulbs on hand that aren't DOT aproved if needed as well
-all interior lights changed to red LEDs (includes courtesy lights, dash and dome light. Better for night vision and harder for others to see)
-LED light bar with combo flood/spot beam; 9000 lumens
-reverse flood light/ blinders; ~2500 lumens
-In cab winch switch; no need to run a cable to the cab
-steering box skid plate (more skids in the future)
The jeep has had additional internal upgrades and work to the engine. I am glad I managed to get a TJ before JKs were produced. They are too electrical to deal with in my oppinion. 
At the moment i am trying to stock up on replacement parts and things that could easily break. Belts, tubing, etc. I keep most of the stock parts in case they are needed. The next order of business is to build an offroad trailer this year for hauling more equiptment. A roof rack may be cheape,r but i don't want my center of gravity higher than it already is. Also, sway bar disconnects for working on the rough terrain in the surrounding area. The vehicle is heavily used at farms and country areas, while also being capable of off roading for fun. 
Our family also has a 2006 Jeep Commander (stock except for things such as slush mats), and a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee (stock except tow package).
I understand the weak points with wranglers and i am trying to build it to be stronger. If bugging out the location is not too far from my position and I will have enough gas to spare on a full tank. The wrangler is the workhorse ever since we sold the truck when it died. 
If anyone has any reasonable ideas i would love to hear them.


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## ras1219como

I too have a Jeep as my BOV. I find them to be quite a good all around vehicle that hold resale value and are exceptionally customizable. Mine is a 2008 Jeep Wrangler Sahara.


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## TheLazyL

JoshSelf.

An intensive list, looks like you got it covered.

If you haven't done so already I'd suggest a On/Off switch that would kill your tail stop lights and backup lights. Dome light, bulb removed during a BO

Shame to give away your position when you're running dark or exiting the Jeep.


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## JoshSelf

I like that idea a lot. And it wouldn't be hard at all to do. My dome lights don't turn on because since it is a jeep I like to run it doorless. To turn them on i just pull a spring off of the door switch. 
My next mini-project is adding a kill switch hidden somewhere tapped to either the starter or fuel pump. Most likely fuel pump. Because even if someone steals my keys it will keep turning over but never start. And I'm thinking of where to put the switch. Probably a waterproof toggle switch in the shift boot.


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## JoshSelf

I also like the idea of more clearence, skids, "tummy tucks", and such, but keeping it lower is sometimes better. And gas mileage is crucial.


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## CrackbottomLouis

I have a 2009 wrangler as my bov. Love it. Haven't done much to it. It's automatic with air conditioning and a hard top so it's not set up mad max style. But my girl can drive it easily, it will go a lot of places, and with the back seat out it has a good amount of storage space. I also have a gmc Sierra 1500 for my other bov (2 is 1 and 1 is none) I'll tow with that and it's just a work horse beast. Looking into a bug out camper. I'll put the klr on the back of the Jeep and pull the camper with the truck as my first bug out choice.


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## JoshSelf

You really can't kill a jeep. I have buddies with stock and heavily modded jeeps last 300000+ miles. Even stock they are great. And having AC is great. I'm glad I managed to find a TJ with it.


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## Tweto

You didn't say if you had limited slip axles? At least the rear axle should have it. You don't want find this out when you get stuck and you can't understand why some of the trucks are going around you and not having any difficulty with the terrain.


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## JoshSelf

The rear is limited slip. I want to save up for front and rear e-lockers though


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## HardCider

Had one for years. Between that and a Toyota Tacoma, they were the 2 toughest vehicles I have owned. Both ended up with well over 200k miles. Wish I still had the jeep for playing out at the farm.


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## JustCliff

I have an 83 CJ7 if anyone wants one. Im going in a different direction.


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## zombieresponder

Personally, I wouldn't try towing more than about 2500lbs with a wrangler. '06 models were roughly 3500lbs curb weight and max tow rating was 3500lbs. I'd suggest adding a brake controller(proportional type) and at least one axle with brakes on the trailer. When I was looking for one, I came across a lot of recommendations for the Tekonsha P3. I don't have one(yet) since found a screaming deal on a Tekonsha Voyager, but I'd recommend looking at them.

Other suggestions:
Cover the winch. UV degrades synthetic winch rope.
Learn how to splice the winch rope. Pretty easy. It's got a lot of advantages, but it's not as durable as steel.
Snatch blocks, tree savers, winch extension lines, and lots of _quality, load rated_ screw pin anchor shackles.
Extra winch solenoids(they do fail, my uncle almost had his CJ pulled up in the air when one stuck during a recovery) or an Albright contractor conversion.

The most important: Learn to use the gear before you need it, but even before that, learn to get by without it.


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## JoshSelf

I put the larger tow package on for overkill. It is nice to have more than I need. Especially pulling big equiptment around at the farm. One of the dump trailers we have has a brake system built in to it. 
-winch is always covered when not in use
-I've known how to splice wire for a long time, but didn't think about it with the winch line
-I have a recovery gear box, I'll put up contents
-the extra solenoid is a great idea that I've never thought of
And always. I don't let my gear into my jeep or permanently added until it is tested thoroughly.


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## JoshSelf

Here's what is in my " jeep box " : Recovery section ( in stanely tool bag ): 
- D rings ( 2 pairs and one pair on bumper. Can be used as last resort snatch block)
-Mechanix gloves 
-tree straps (×2)
-5" diameter tow hook (fits in trailer hitch receiver)
-winch cable switch
-cold steel shovel 

Other items in box:
-Ohio road atlas w/ topo maps
-tire slime
-trailer hitch
-trailer hitch lock
-trailer wiring harness adapter 
-flashlights (×2)
-headlamp
-watch cap
-ENO hammock, rain fly, ans bug net
-ponchos
-basic tool kit
-car computer scanner 
-military poncho/blanket
-water purification tablets 
-matches
-pocket knife
-bungee cords ( for when top is down)
-hank of paracord 
-bag of extra fuses
-electrical tape
-peanuts, beef jerky, and other small food poutches

In cargo area (usually ):
-Get home style bag
-5gal desert storm surplus water can
-5gal jerry can (only when needed)
-hi-lift jack 

In center console / glove compartment:
-gerber shard
-multi-tool
-bag of change
-insurance "blah blah" and jeep manual
-small first aid kit
-sunglasses
-CB mic
-hand sanitizer 

I am looking to add:
-snatch block
-porable air compressor 
-winch line dampener 
- flare gun and flares ( two sets are on my boat. Will just take one from there)

I am certain that I have left some things out but that is most of it.


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## ras1219como

I have molle pouch accessories on my tailgate. They are securely held in place by molle webbing but can be removed and used as a small GHB. I keep the following items in the GHB:

- water bottles and purification tabs
- assorted food bars
- medium sized FAK 
- matches, lighter, Firestarter
- candles, sterno can, tinder
- flashlight
- knife & multi tool
- 100 rounds ammunition
- handwarmers 
- extra pair of socks, shirt, gloves, etc
- 50 feet paracord 
- plastic sheeting

Also in my jeep I carry the following:

- Fire extinguisher
- folding shovel
- tow rope
- jumper cables
- flashlight with orange cone 
- LED emergency triangle lights 
- can of fix a flat and tire repair equipment 
- jack and assorted tools
- small amount of cash 
-required papers


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## JoshSelf

Added an engine heater today. In the winter it will make it easier on the parts and help the heater warm up faster as well. I'm glad I did it now so I am not worrying about it in the winter. 
I also added the kill switch I previously mentioned. I tapped off the fuel pump fuse and used a push switch and inline fuse in order to shut off the pump. The jeep will try to start and sound like it but it never will until it is switched.


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## zombieresponder

mike_dippert said:


> Short wheel base is 2000# towing.
> Long wheel base is 3500# towing.
> The swb's lower rating is due to the short wheelbase.
> 
> TJ brakes are relatively weak all around though. I'd adhere to the ratings on the road. Around the farm is a different story.
> 
> There are 12v PUMA brand air compressors on eBay. I've had one since 2006, completely trouble free. It has a tank, regulator, and 100% duty compressor. I can post pics for size and specs tonight when I get home.


Yep, short wheelbase really sucks for towing. The Puma air compressors use a starter motor to spin a York A/C compressor if I remember correctly. Another option would be picking up another A/C compressor and doing a bit of bracket fab work to drive it from the engine. Yorks pump more air, but the Sandens are easier to mount. 

Something else I remembered last night right after I posted(and my internet went down): As far as I know, unless you've got the Rubicon package, the Wranglers had wonderfully craptastic Dana 35 rear axles and a low pinion Dana 30 up front. The CJ's had AMC 20 rears IIRC, and they were even worse.

I strongly suggest tossing the dana 35 in a scrap pile and swapping in a Ford 8.8 from a late 90's explorer. Much more durable, plus disk brakes and it's almost the same width. Spending any money at all on the D35 is unwise. You might get lucky and find a high pinion D30 in a junked Cherokee(look for 98 and prior year models), but you'll have to do a lot of cutting and welding to get all the mounts in the right places. If you're going to that much trouble, you might as well just go for something beefier anyway. If you're easy on the skinny pedal, you can probably get by with a locker in the D30. If not, expect the ring gear to break, regardless of high pinion or low pinion.


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## JoshSelf

I could be incorrect but the off road shop in town said it was a dana 44 rear and 35 front. They did the inspection when I first got it. 
I also have never had trouble on or offroad with my larger tires and lift. But it is always nice to make it stronger.


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## zombieresponder

mike_dippert said:


> That's the first I've heard that about Puma. I suppose it's possible, but I don't think that's right. I keep forgotting to snap a pic. I'll set an alarm in my phone as a reminder.


I might be wrong about the brand. There was one being built that way. Actually there were several a while back that were built with larger old style starter motors(think chevy 350 starter).



mike_dippert said:


> The XJ HP30 is an exact fit into a TJ, zero fabrication required. Avoid the older vacuum disconnect models (weaker tube due to a cutout for the disconnect). Early models also can't fit the larger u-joint. There are two different unit bearing sizes too. It's not a deal breaker, you just need to be aware which one you have for brake rotor and unit bearing compatibility with your current D30. Ideally they would match so you have instant spare parts. If they are different, leave that stuff bolted to the outer knuckle and treat the assembly as interchangeable. If you ever go this route, I can give you very specific details, it'd be an info overload right now though.


First I've heard of it being direct replacement, but I'm not a wrangler guy(XJ's for me). As far as I know, the complete axleshaft assembly(inner and outer) is a direct replacement regardless of year model. Vacuum disconnect ended around 91 or 92?



mike_dippert said:


> The cutting and welding needs to be done on the 8.8 since it was a leaf spring axle. Several companies sell bolt-in 8.8's that have already been modified. East Coast Gear Supply being the most popular.


Just needs the shock and spring mounts welded on in the right spot.



mike_dippert said:


> You (or the shop) are incorrect about something. The D35 is only a rear axle. Take a pic of the differential cover and I can tell you what it is. Unless you have a Rubicon, the front is a D30.


There were some D35 IFS front units. Not applicable to anything from Jeep though. The Rubicon D44 front is not a real D44. It's a bastardized D44/D30 hybrid with some of the good from the 44 and almost all the bad from the D30.



mike_dippert said:


> The D35 isn't the turd everybody makes it out to be. In your case, I would still look for a D44 out of another Wrangler, or an 8.8.
> 
> The D35 is a C-clip axle. The shaft is retained in the differential by a c-clip. If you ever break a shaft, it walk itself right out of the housing. The pinion is also weak. Since you're preparing to tow heavy trailers around the farm and trails, that pinion will see greater than typical stress. Having a manual transmission adds a bit more stress from shock loads when releasing clutch. Over time that pinion will fatigue and eventually break. "Wheel hop" also adds a lot of stress to both the pinion and shafts. A locker will just speed the process up.
> 
> There's a kit to fix the C-clip issue, but nothing to make the pinion stronger.
> 
> Rear brakes in a TJ only do about 30% of the stopping. Discs will always be better, but don't avoid a good deal just b/c of drums. I think the disc conversion kits are a waste of money. Use that cash toward a big brake kit for the front (Vanco is a great brand). The Vanco kit (available for 15", 16", and 17" wheels) has a better, larger caliper and reinforced knuckle. It's expensive, but there's a significant improvement in brake performance. MUCH more than you could ever get from "upgrading" the rear.


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## zombieresponder

Well, I'm learning stuff. On XJ's, the axleshaft _assembly_ is interchangeable regardless of model year. Apparently that's not true for the Wranglers.

98 was the last year for the HP30 in the XJ as far as I know. Mine are '91 and '00.

Completely forgot about the switch to rear coils.  When I think "Wrangler", it's basically anything from the CJ to current.


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## hashbrown

Dana 60 and a 14 bolt and be done.......


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## zombieresponder

hashbrown said:


> Dana 60 and a 14 bolt and be done.......


That's the direction I'm going on my 91 XJ.  I might do a Ford/Sterling 10.5 for the rear though. Just need to find an early 90's 3/4 or 1 ton ford to get the axles from. Don't want the oddball metric pattern that ford switched to.


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## hashbrown

Ive built several, done the 8.8 swaps the dana 44s the 9" fords tried to build a dana 35 and 30 that will hold. When it comes down to it a 60 and a 14 is the way to go.


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## Tirediron

zombieresponder said:


> That's the direction I'm going on my 91 XJ.  I might do a Ford/Sterling 10.5 for the rear though. Just need to find an early 90's 3/4 or 1 ton ford to get the axles from. Don't want the oddball metric pattern that ford switched to.


That's right, go with the sterling, after all the guys with heavy 14 s appreciate the extra dirt you scrape off the high spots with the "compact"  sterling housing.


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## JoshSelf

Updates:
-added new under-hood work light. The stock one is terrible and the new is LED.
-added a cleaner bead of silicone to all offroad lights and housings.
-Sanded and bedlined rear bumper


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## headhunter

About 5 years ago or so the son-in-law found a "Texas" (no rust) YJ It was an 87 with less than 40K. However he was a little short in the $ department, so the father-in-law (me) ended up buying it. The cost was $1500 and I jumped on it. It hadn't been run for 3 years. It ended up on the transporter trailer. That same evening he got it running. Could you believe it disappeared-like magic. Occasionally I caught sight of it and it was transforming. The 3.08s became 4.10s , the 15s became 32s (heck grandma can't even get into it), Craig's List supplied a full soft top to replace the bikini, metal pieces like bumpers were replaced. Well, you get the idea. Heck, I do get to see it when the snow flies and he wants to store it in grandpa's pole shed. Should he have to run for it there is a problem, should be take the Jeep or his Suburban? His wife has her own Grand Cherokee, she ain't gonna give that up!
Grandma has her Cherokee Latitude and grandpa his F-150, ah, the choice of Solomon.


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## JoshSelf

Update: 
-added flat fenders for more room to flex off road. Helps when there are deep ruts in trails or old roads. 
-9000 lumen spot lights added on windshield brackets
-ordered a new Kevlar winch line that is stronger. Mine snapped on a rock recently. I spliced it back together as an emergency line. 
-Added to my recovery gear and equipment that remains in jeep


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## JoshSelf

I have decided to not sell most of the stock parts I remove from my vehicle now unless they are damaged since I never know when a part will become damaged. I'll have a container of parts for emergencies.


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## JoshSelf

I have the same thing. Springs are +3" and I have the coils only for if a friend needs them or if I ever get another Jeep. I don't want to horde, but stock parts can get pricey.


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## Tirediron

A wondrous design feature of several jeep engines is the crankshaft position sensor being bolted into the bell housing, while this location does protect it from debris, it places the lead really close to the exhaust and in some chassis you have to remove the cross member bolts and lower the trans /t-case to gain clearance to change the sensor, which should be a five minute job, if you have a Jeep thus equipped I would highly recommend modifying the fire wall so that you can change out the sensor with ease.


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## JoshSelf

That's a really good ideas, I will have to look into that.


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## JoshSelf

I got the supplies needed to extend my breather hoses in to the air box. This will make it so I can travel through deep water without contaminating oil in the differentials or tcase.


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## TimB

Tirediron said:


> A wondrous design feature of several jeep engines is the crankshaft position sensor being bolted into the bell housing, while this location does protect it from debris, it places the lead really close to the exhaust and in some chassis you have to remove the cross member bolts and lower the trans /t-case to gain clearance to change the sensor, which should be a five minute job, if you have a Jeep thus equipped I would highly recommend modifying the fire wall so that you can change out the sensor with ease.


I know it's the same way on a 5.2 V8, 5.9 V8, and I suspect the 3.9 V6s in Dodge trucks/SUVs. I bought an '00 Durango 4x4 w/ a bad engine (5.9) during the summer as a second vehicle. One of the last things I did after swapping the engine was bolting the sensor back in (mounts to the block but has a notch in the bellhousing it goes through). After several serious conversations with the sensor, the vehicle, and what I would like to do to the person who designed it, I finally got it in. :brickwall: Several weeks ago I found a factory repair manual online for it and bought it. As I'm looking through it, I happen to run across the section for sensor R&R. First thing they tell you to do is remove the fender liner for access.  Aaahhh!! Why didn't I notice that?


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## OldCootHillbilly

Tirediron said:


> A wondrous design feature of several jeep engines is the crankshaft position sensor being bolted into the bell housing, while this location does protect it from debris, it places the lead really close to the exhaust and in some chassis you have to remove the cross member bolts and lower the trans /t-case to gain clearance to change the sensor, which should be a five minute job, if you have a Jeep thus equipped I would highly recommend modifying the fire wall so that you can change out the sensor with ease.


Yeah, my oldest had one a them. Got tired a dinkin with it an cut a whole in the floor ta replace it! What a freakin genius was that engineer!


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## zombieresponder

Tirediron said:


> A wondrous design feature of several jeep engines is the crankshaft position sensor being bolted into the bell housing, while this location does protect it from debris, it places the lead really close to the exhaust and in some chassis you have to remove the cross member bolts and lower the trans /t-case to gain clearance to change the sensor, which should be a five minute job, if you have a Jeep thus equipped I would highly recommend modifying the fire wall so that you can change out the sensor with ease.


My '00 Cherokee with the 4.0 has the CPS mounted on the bellhousing in that manner. I recently had to change it. What a moronic location to mount it. I had to have roughly 24" worth of extensions and a u-joint to access it. Pro-tip: wrap electrical tape on your u-joint to keep it from flopping around as much.

If you buy spare sensors for backups or replacement, *DO NOT* buy them from anyone other than Mopar or the Echlin brand at NAPA. Every other brand is junk and either won't work properly out of the box or will fail very quickly.f


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## Tirediron

the wobble extensions work really well in this case, because they only flex a few degrees.


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