# What survival knife should i get?



## prepare_survive_thrive

Just wanted to get some opinions on larger survival knives. I've narrowed it to, kabar heavy bowie, kershaw outcast, kabar war sword, or kabar big brother. I already have the cold steel roach belly for small work. I need a large cutter/chopper for bigger problems. I know there are better knives but these are roughly in my price range


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## Magus

USAF survival knife backed up by a USMC K bar.Might consider a cold steel ATC as well.just in case something/somebody gets too close.


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## prepare_survive_thrive

I considered the atc but still a bit high on my budget. I liked some of Ontario's knives but liked kabar better. The knives i have listed can also take care of the close quarters problem until i can afford a kukri or cold steel wakazashi. A bit of overkill but why not?


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## questor

I have an Ontario Spec Plus Marine Raider Bowie and an Ontario Spec Plus Kukri. I'm waiting for the CAS Hanwei Tactical Wakizashi to be 'reissued'. The Bowie is in the leather shop getting a new sheath made for it. It's going to have a small 'caping knife' sheath on the front, and a place for a fire steel and a pouch, for a stone and 'possibles', on the back. I may, also have that done for the Kukri.


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## FatTire

im considering this for my next purchase


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## prepare_survive_thrive

questor said:


> I have an Ontario Spec Plus Marine Raider Bowie and an Ontario Spec Plus Kukri. I'm waiting for the CAS Hanwei Tactical Wakizashi to be 'reissued'. The Bowie is in the leather shop getting a new sheath made for it. It's going to have a small 'caping knife' sheath on the front, and a place for a fire steel and a pouch, for a stone and 'possibles', on the back. I may, also have that done for the Kukri.


That sounds awesome. Post pics when you get it back. Really want to see the finished product. Also why a hanwei instead of coldsteel?


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## prepare_survive_thrive

FatTire said:


> im considering this for my next purchase
> 
> Video Link:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know right. That's the one i was talking about.


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## questor

Cold Steel makes a dang fine product. I have several of their knives and machetes. I had a couple of their swords (Hand and a Half and a Grosse Messer) but gave them away as they were a bit unwieldy for my small stature.
Their Asian Swords are a bit too pricey for me at the moment. I also got to handle CAS Hanwei Wakizashi and I liked the balance, length and action of it. Read up on them and watched a few 'reviews' on it. I'm thinking the Katana is along the same lines. 
Here is one of the 'reviews' that impressed me.
http://www.woodsmonkey.com/index.ph...-tactical-wakizashi&catid=34:knives&Itemid=55


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## FrankW

It depnds how you definde "survival knife" .
If it is in the sense of a knife that has a hollow grip with extra gear in it .., I was always skeptical of those as I have seen blades break off in hard use.

Nowadays full tang knifes are more readily available on a budget than they ever were.

Any knife w/ a 5-7 inch inch blade that is full tang construction, either in stainless of art least with any corrosion phosphate covering and that is affordable to you will be a good choice.
many such knifes are now sadly made in China so look carefully at the package


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## oldvet

As far as a "fighting knife" goes, the Kabar 7" Tanto is hard to beat. There are so many "multi-purpose knives" out there that at times it is hard to choose. I would say stay with makers such as kabar, Cold Steel, and Gerber, just as examples.


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## Jezcruzen

I don't know anything about knife fighting. Thats why I carry a Glock!

I do carry a knife, however. Always have, even back in school when common sense ruled. Pocket knife. Later a single-blade folder.

I now carry a Benchmade "Doug Ritter" folder. Have now for about six years.. same knife. Nothing fancy or exotic about it. Its just a quality blade that I keep shaving sharp. Its cleaned game, fish, and my finger nails. Its pried more than a few tops off, opened packages, sliced steak, and one time I used it to tie a cord to while I laid off a row in my garden after sticking it in the ground.

For a sheath knife I favor a 4" full-tang blade of carbon steel. Between the folder and the sheath knife I can do most anything needing doing from battoning firewood to slicing a tomato. I guess that could be called survival.

I realize what I have isn't what most of you are talking about. Truth is, if I have to depend on a knife to save me in a fight with another person, something has gone drastically wrong! I must have lost my Glock!


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## questor

"Truth is, if I have to depend on a knife to save me in a fight with another person, something has gone drastically wrong! I must have lost my Glock!"

I'm not sure that's what we're talking about, here.

Personally, my EDC is a CRKT M-21, a CRKT M-16 and, of course, a small Swiss Army knife (nail file, very small blade, scissors, toothpick and tweezers). Like you, I know nothing about knife fighting, but, I do know Karate, just enough to get myself hurt, really bad. So, for 'protection', I carry a .45(Colt).
However, when out Traipsing for the day, I swap the CRKT's for the Ontario "kit" and a MOLLE Butt Pack, both on shoulder straps.
In the MOLLE I also have a Mora with a two inch fixed blade. A lotta blades, I know . . .
But that's just me.


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## prepare_survive_thrive

BlueZ said:


> It depnds how you definde "survival knife" .
> If it is in the sense of a knife that has a hollow grip with extra gear in it .., I was always skeptical of those as I have seen blades break off in hard use.
> 
> Nowadays full tang knifes are more readily available on a budget than they ever were.
> 
> Any knife w/ a 5-7 inch inch blade that is full tang construction, either in stainless of art least with any corrosion phosphate covering and that is affordable to you will be a good choice.
> many such knifes are now sadly made in China so look carefully at the package


No i would never consider a hollow handle. When I say survival knife I mean one with full tang that can make fine cuts, chop, split wood into kindling, and for me personally a forward balance for close quarter combat. I also would like one with a bit more reach than seven inches.


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## prepare_survive_thrive

Jezcruzen said:


> I don't know anything about knife fighting. Thats why I carry a Glock.
> 
> For a sheath knife I favor a 4" full-tang blade of carbon steel. Between the folder and the sheath knife I can do most anything needing doing from battoning firewood to slicing a tomato. I guess that could be called survival.
> 
> I realize what I have isn't what most of you are talking about. Truth is, if I have to depend on a knife to save me in a fight with another person, something has gone drastically wrong! I must have lost my Glock!


Well the thing with being prepared is its best to be prepared for all possible outcomes. While this isnt possible, one should strive to do so. The thing with knife fighting is do your best to avoid it, dont be scared to bleed, chose where you will be cut, and practice alot. And yes that is a survival knife but i have the roach belly, just wanted something with a lil more weight.


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## prepare_survive_thrive

In the MOLLE I also have a Mora with a two inch fixed blade. A lotta blades, I know . . .
But that's just me.[/QUOTE]

How do you like the Mora? I was thinking about getting the one that comes with a fire striker.


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## questor

I actually have a bunch of Moras. Nice knives. Keep in mind that they are only 3/4 tang, so avoid batoning. I do have a 'very old', full tang, Mora with a wood handle that has a rivet in the butt of the handle that holds the blade in. Incredibly sharp and hold their edge. The Bushcraft Survival is a nice knife. However with a little work and some ingenuity, you can save a few bucks. The Bushcraft goes for about $70.00. If you get a Bushcraft Forest, Force or Signal, less than $35.00 and square off the spine with a vise and file, you have the same knife. Get a fire steel (I get mine for about 3 to 5 bucks.) and a length of bicycle inner tube. Cut a length of inner tube slide it over the sheath and slip in the firesteel. It ain't pretty, but on the plus side I saved about 25 bucks and I can also fit a magnesium block under the inner tube along with the fire striker 
I got all, but my first Mora, here 
http://www.ragweedforge.com/SwedishKnifeCatalog.html


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## Jezcruzen

I never liked the Scandinavian knives. I didn't like most of the sheaths dangling from the belt, either. How ignorant I was!

I bought two Mora knives on sale for $8 ea. from a well-known seller that cheaper than dirt. I put one each in my wife's and my GHB. Wow, what great knives!

I got captured by the carbon steel and scandi grind. Razor sharp and very, very durable.

I have since purchased several of these type blades. The latest was a Helle with a laminated blade that Les Stroud assisted in developing. Not cheap, but a wonderful blade. Only problem is that the steel is too soft for a fire steel. No problem, I have other resources for that.

Great knives!


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## overboard

I bought a marine special forces, it has served me well. But the rubber handle seems to damage easy when I use it for shaving kindling (oak wood) I have beat this knife for splitting wood making, homemade pipes ( tobacco ) it hasn't broke yet uv had it at least 10 yrs! But I think I like the kabar with the leather handle better cause of the hammer on the end! If I was lost in the woods that is the knife I would choose! Id rather have the knife and no gun!


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## questor

"Only problem is that the steel is too soft for a fire steel. No problem, I have other resources for that."


that is why I stay with the Sandvik or high carbon steel for my 'striker knives'. I also make sure that the spine of the knife is 'squared off' with sharp corners. Otherwise they just don't work on the fire steels.
Have you tried squaring off the spine?


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## prepare_survive_thrive

Do the Moras skin well?


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## questor

That, I don't know . . .

I've never skinned one 

sorry, couldn't resist.

But I honestly don't know


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## questor

overboard said:


> I bought a marine special forces, it has served me well. But the rubber handle seems to damage easy when I use it for shaving kindling (oak wood) I have beat this knife for splitting wood making, homemade pipes ( tobacco ) it hasn't broke yet uv had it at least 10 yrs! But I think I like the kabar with the leather handle better cause of the hammer on the end! If I was lost in the woods that is the knife I would choose! Id rather have the knife and no gun!


how well does it hold up to the baton?
I've heard stories about the handle becoming loose.


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## prepare_survive_thrive

questor said:


> That, I don't know . . .
> 
> I've never skinned one
> 
> sorry, couldn't resist.
> 
> But I honestly don't know


Lmao not much meat on them lil things


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## Jezcruzen

questor said:


> "Only problem is that the steel is too soft for a fire steel. No problem, I have other resources for that."
> 
> that is why I stay with the Sandvik or high carbon steel for my 'striker knives'. I also make sure that the spine of the knife is 'squared off' with sharp corners. Otherwise they just don't work on the fire steels.
> Have you tried squaring off the spine?


You know, I may have gotten that backwards. It may be too hard. It was produced with a section of the spine made for firesteels, but once produced, it was discovered firesteels do not spark enough.

It does have an inner laminate layer of high-carbon steel for edge-holding ability.


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## LongRider

You may want to rethink larger survival knife. A five inch blade is considered by many as the best over all size for a general purpose survival knife. As a five inch blade can do the larger tasks as well as more detailed oriented smaller tasks. A BK2 Becker Campanion with a blade two and half inches wide by five and half inches long and a full quarter inch thick blade of 1095 high carbon steel fits that niche perfectly. It is a virtually indestructible nuke proof blade that lives up to its nickname the _Becker Train Wrecker_ That will do all you survival tasks from digging roots or water to battoning fire wood to breaking down a deer carcass and skinning small and large game, whittling fire sticks, snares and shelter. A BK2 is always on my hip in the bush. You can get knives just as good as a BK2 for eight to ten times the price but none better.

That said I do like to have a larger blade on hand strapped to my pack or in camp for that a BK7 or BK9 also made by Ka Bar are excellent options. Now if you want to go higher end Grayman knives makes some excellent choices that are combat proven 1095 blades used in the jungles of Sudan. The money made from those knives goes to help fund the makers commitment to fight Al Qaeda in Sudan which he has spent a decade or more doing on his own dime.

Last but not least is the Mercworx Equatorian Chili This is my Let Loose The Dogs Of WAR death and destruction. blade. The blade I grab if the need is to bring bloody horror mayhem to an attacker. The eight and a half inch Cryogenically Treated S30V blade will make short work of any decapitations and amputations effortlessly hack through flesh and bone. Seriously though, that really is not what I need a blade for and while Cryogenically Treated S30V steel takes an scalpel sharp edge with excellent edge retention even under hard use. Once it gets dulled you better have a diamond or at least ceramic hones on hand. Not something I tend to have on hand in the bush. Which is why 1095 is the preferred steel for hard use survival blades. It takes an excellent edge and has very good edge retention. Better yet when it does eventually need sharpening it can be sharpened with a flat rock if need be. Something I have no difficulty finding in the bush


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## LongRider

prepare_survive_thrive said:


> kershaw outcast,


I have a Kershaw Outcast the D2 steel is awesome but is prone to chip under heavy use. I had a stack of dead fall that I had to clean up. Remove the limbs and cut up mostly for kindling for teh fire pit. As none were much bigger around than a soft ball at the base. The Outcast worked well but dulled and the edge chipped rather quickly. I also used a BK7 and a BK9 both are excellent choppers but amazingly it was the BK2 that seems to just breeze through removing the limbs. It was like I had a razor sharp hatchet. Not sure but I suspect the quarter inch think blade helped put a lot of force behind the relatively short 5.5 inch blade that caused it it breeze through the limbs. Cutting up the trucks the BK7 & BK9 did better than the Outcast.


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## echo1432

I use one these for work.

http://www.georgeknives.com/XM-7eod.html


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## Mick_Jee

Here's a knife I bought last year for 10 GB pounds (about 14 US dollars), it can't be much good at that cheap price but it looks kool, so I might fix it on brackets as a wall ornament..


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## prepare_survive_thrive

I hate the feel of a Becker but thanks for the other links though. Those are truly beautiful and capable looking knives. I can't afford those but i always appreciate seeing a well crafted blade. I have a couple of friends that have had and concur with your view of the outcast so that's off the table. As for shorter blades i have some but wanted one with more weight and reach for......those aggressive branches. Lol.


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## SuspectZero

I use the kabar tanto and becker. Love both but each have their own uses. I find myself using my leatherman mut for most everyday things while outdoors. All depends on what your wanting out of it.


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## Magus

Jezcruzen said:


> I never liked the Scandinavian knives. I didn't like most of the sheaths dangling from the belt, either. How ignorant I was!
> 
> I bought two Mora knives on sale for $8 ea. from a well-known seller that cheaper than dirt. I put one each in my wife's and my GHB. Wow, what great knives!
> 
> I got captured by the carbon steel and scandi grind. Razor sharp and very, very durable.
> 
> I have since purchased several of these type blades. The latest was a Helle with a laminated blade that Les Stroud assisted in developing. Not cheap, but a wonderful blade. Only problem is that the steel is too soft for a fire steel. No problem, I have other resources for that.
> 
> Great knives!


Scandinavian grind is all I use on the blades I make.almost impossible to chip out under normal circumstances.


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## artman556

I just got a k bar knife at a local gun show for 60 bucks I would go k bar


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## Fn/Form

Right now I prefer a quality folder or small fixed blade + tomahawk. They are more useful together than a single, large blade. 

I do have a Gerber LMF II ASEK, and it's tough as nails. Glass breaker heel, flat top for impromptu hammering. The sheath has many carry/lash options. It has a crude sharpener built in. It is also 5/8 inches shorter than the legal 5.5" max blade length here in TX. IIRC, the KA-BAR is around 7" long. Something to think about.


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## VUnder

I don't live in Little Rock, but am close to the James Black blacksmith shop in Old Washington. A Davy Crockett knife showed up around here after an old collector died. I picked it up for a deal, and it is 17.5" long. I will try to post some pics. It has a continual curve from the handle to the tip, blade edge and back of blade are on a radius. A flat piece of buffalo hide is riveted on each side for a handle. This thing means business. Almost a sword, that is what they said Davy Crockett carried.


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## questor

VUnder said:


> I don't live in Little Rock, but am close to the James Black blacksmith shop in Old Washington. A Davy Crockett knife showed up around here after an old collector died. I picked it up for a deal, and it is 17.5" long. I will try to post some pics. It has a continual curve from the handle to the tip, blade edge and back of blade are on a radius. A flat piece of buffalo hide is riveted on each side for a handle. This thing means business. Almost a sword, that is what they said Davy Crockett carried.


YES, please post some pictures. I would really like to see that


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## Magus

artman556 said:


> I just got a k bar knife at a local gun show for 60 bucks I would go k bar


Good advice! that and a USAF survival knife for smaller jobs.[did I say that already?]


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## questor

My last issue K-bar (served late 60's thru early 70's) was 'misplaced' during my last move.
I AM PISSED.


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## WatchUr6

For the price, I believe ka-bar is second to none. I have the machete kukri. Awesome!! Very well balanced and has one of the thickest blade you can get. For @ $60 I don't think you can better quality. For a great quality folder, I have the kershaw 1670TBLK. Very fast opening action, slim design and great feel. From the factory, this is the sharpest knife I own.


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## tac803

I recently bought a Cattaraugus knife from WWII. It's about the perfect size and heft, thick blade, full tang and takes a razors edge. It's seen some hard use, but still in great shape. I'm guessing if I could leave home with only one knife, that would be the one.


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## Ration-AL

i bought one of these a few weeks ago based on people saying they were good(not here)......









that's a lie, it sucks, not 1/2 as good as a standard machete , the blade is too thin and deflects when hitting anything thicker then a small piece of bamboo or tree limb, i have 4 machetes and when compared side by side on the same branch of the same tree the machete goes right through and the cane knife balks ... so giving up on that one, on to a parang or khukuri.

the one i bought was south American made and only ran me $20 so no real loss and it looks cool...lol

i'm thinking of trying to track down something like this for the next one


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## questor

I'm debating getting one of these, for 'yard work'.

http://www.camping-gear-outlet.com/camping-equipment-251.html?brand=624


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## Magus

WatchUr6 said:


> For the price, I believe ka-bar is second to none. I have the machete kukri. Awesome!! Very well balanced and has one of the thickest blade you can get. For @ $60 I don't think you can better quality. For a great quality folder, I have the kershaw 1670TBLK. Very fast opening action, slim design and great feel. From the factory, this is the sharpest knife I own.


I am SO getting one of those!My ATC has seen better days.


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## Oldpagan

I have and have had a lot of knives, from kabar's to short swords. Operating from the "if you could only have one knife" thought, this one would be it... the BOB knife

http://www.topsknives.com/product_info.php?products_id=371

This fits the bill for camp, survival, and combat. I can't recommend this knife enough! Its $127.95 from Tops!


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## mojo4

Only one knife is tough, its like only pickin one gun! But I would take my buck hunting knife. Its got around a 4 inch blade and holds a nice edge. Its done well on deer and elk and isn't so big and unwieldy for doing fine cutting. My folding knife is the new smith n wesson border guard folder. Its nice steel with a pommel point on the handle end for smashing glass or causing headaches. It also keeps a great edge and I only paid 15 bucks at big 5. I picked up my buck for 2 bucks at a yard sale. I recently bought a kissing crane hunter for my dad so I'm excited to get it. I couldn't find too many reviews so does anyone have experience with that brand?


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## mattheb24

Greetings,

In my neck of the country some times you need a hatchet, a lot of the times a machete.

I found a tool that works pretty well in both jobs and I have used it at work a lot. Is it the master of both, no, it is more of a jack of all trades.

https://www.woodmanspal.com/products/woodmans-pal-classic-model-481-tool-only

It is pricey, but it is made in the states and was standard issue in the military during WW2 and after.

If you look at the picture you will see a cut out behind the sickle blade, that was for your hand to use the tool as a shovel. The original units had a beveled cutting blade on the end. I guess they did away with that because of liability issues.

I took mine down to the shop and beveled the blade my self. If you should do that just remember a couple of things.

1. Wear gloves when digging just in case your hand should slip.
2. The hand on the blade is only there to guide the tool not force the tool down, use the hand on the handle to do the work.


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## questor

I've always wanted one . . .
There is a website that sells the 'entire kit' ! The woodsman's pal, a sharpening puck stone, a nice canvas sheath and 4 booklets on care and handling, Jungle survival techniques, Airman's survival and Fighting techniques. All that for about 120 or so. Every time I start thinking about, it something' breaks and needs repair or parts. 
Heavy sigh, such is Life

but Someday . . . . .


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## mattheb24

It took me a while to do the deed but I do not regret it.

I purchased the leather sheath and the manuals, wish I would have purchased the hockey puck.

Definitely get the nylon or canvas sheath, the leather is heavy and costly.

I wish you luck on getting one, times are hard and I could not afford one now.


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## questor

well, I do have my Ontario Marine Bowie, that I'm building a 'sheath/pouch' for.

Did the sheath for the Woodsman's Pall have a pouch? I never could figure out if it did or not.
I probably missread it or missed reading it.


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## mattheb24

I believe the nostalgia sheath (the canvas one) has two. One for the sharpener and one for the manuals.


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## mattheb24

Here is a link to the sheath. This sheath is for the military version link also below.

Sheath
https://www.woodmanspal.com/products/vintage-canvas-sheath-fits-all-models

Mil version.
https://www.woodmanspal.com/products/woodmans-pal-military-premium-tool-only

USAF survival version, shorter.
https://www.woodmanspal.com/products/woodmans-pal-compact-premium

Enjoy, out of my price range for now.


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## paguy

Ask yourself if you want it to survive with or to look cool with it. Then you will see that big and bad are not always the way to go. Develop our skills and go with a solid basic knife. It might not say "Rambo" or do your takes for you but a basic Kabar will do you right.


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## questor

mattheb24 said:


> Here is a link to the sheath. This sheath is for the military version link also below.
> 
> Sheath
> https://www.woodmanspal.com/products/vintage-canvas-sheath-fits-all-models
> 
> Mil version.
> https://www.woodmanspal.com/products/woodmans-pal-military-premium-tool-only
> 
> USAF survival version, shorter.
> https://www.woodmanspal.com/products/woodmans-pal-compact-premium
> 
> Enjoy, out of my price range for now.


THIS is the one I've been looking at
http://www.camping-gear-outlet.com/camping-gear-272818.html


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## srtmedic

I use the Mora 11863 as my general kniv along with my US Army Aircrew Survival Knife that was issued to me way back in the middle 80's. My powerhouse tool is a Woodsman Pal.


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## Magus

Oldpagan said:


> I have and have had a lot of knives, from kabar's to short swords. Operating from the "if you could only have one knife" thought, this one would be it... the BOB knife
> 
> http://www.topsknives.com/product_info.php?products_id=371
> 
> This fits the bill for camp, survival, and combat. I can't recommend this knife enough! Its $127.95 from Tops!


They make nice stuff for sure, but is it better than a K-bar?


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## truecarnage

I not sure what you are doing with this future knife you want but when you define its purpose then I could make a decision as to what to recommend. 
But in general I love cold steel and there is not much that something in their catalog won't fix.


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## truecarnage

God bless you long rider if you can buy knifes like that, but that's like two car payments or a couple thousand rounds of 5.56 for me.


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## prepare_survive_thrive

Thanks everyone for the post. I went with ka bar heavy bowie.


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