# Auger question



## AdmiralD7S (Dec 6, 2012)

Time once more to ask for some advice from my elders 

I've got roughly 30 holes to drill in late September. I can rent a one-man auger for $140/day, final cost, and I'd only need it one day (for now).

Saw on Craigslist a gentleman listing one for a 3PH for $300. Good bit of surface rust, which doesn't itself bother me too much. I'm much more concerned about the condition of the gear box. It comes with a 12" auger.

Occurred to me to look at new ones again since it's been a few years, and it looks like I can get brand new for $550 out the door.

I have a TO-30 that I think can handle it, although I would certainly believe it to be near the minimal end of the spectrum. Also, at he next property a few years away, I anticipate putting lots of holes in the ground.

So, questions...

1. Would you recommend doing the rental, the used, or the new?

2. If you were buying new, is there a particular manufacturer/model that you've been happy with?

3. Are there any features I should be looking for if I choose to buy (either new or used)?

4. Anything obvious and/or important that I'm overlooking?

As always, your wisdom is appreciated to no end!


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## cowboyhermit (Nov 10, 2012)

If you need 30 12"x1' or more holes that will bite you the next day with a one man auger Then you are out that $140, period.

A lot of them get sold cheap (used) because they really don't get much use for many people. A 3pt hitch model is the way to go if you can swing it (imo), of course I still use a hand auger a lot :dunno: there are a lot of places that aren't practical to get to with a tractor.

Neighbors have one that you could hire?


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## Caribou (Aug 18, 2012)

Thirty posts is one post every twenty minutes for ten hours straight. That is position the auger, dig the hole, drop the post into position to preserve the hole, move the auger to the next spot. That should be easy enough for hour one if the ground is good. Roots, rocks, or other hard going will slow you down and sap your strength. Just saying that it may take more than one day. 

If the used one looks in good shape that might work well for you. If you can get the price down to under $200 and it lasts for the entire job you break even.

New is always good. You know how it was treated from day one, you have a warranty, and you have years of expected use. The question is are these thirty holes all you will drill over the next few years. Sorry, no answer but something to think on.


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## IlliniWarrior (Nov 30, 2010)

have you checked out the $$$ pricing $$$$ for having the job done by a landscaper or some guy doing side jobs? .... if a tractor mount can do the job it'll go fast .... when you start comparing $$$$ numbers you might be working your collective arses off for pennies ...

that's alot of work for one guy ... no mention of how deep .... no mention of soil conditions ... your one day could go 2-3 days of rent with no problem .... a freaking rock can screw you up plenty


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## AdmiralD7S (Dec 6, 2012)

IlliniWarrior said:


> have you checked out the $$$ pricing $$$$ for having the job done by a landscaper? .... if a tractor mount can do the job it'll go fast .... when you start comparing $$$$ numbers you might be working your collective arses off for pennies ...


Hadn't thought of that before. I usually prefer to buy the equipment so that I have a capability, investing in the future. But in this case, renting or, as you mentioned, contracting it out may be a better alternative. Thanks for the input!


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## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

I bought a used 3pt post hole digger with a 9" auger. Even my F-I-L's TO-20 will handle it (power wise). 
I use it on a Farmall C.

HP isn't a problem, but I often have to add weights to get it through hard clay and rocks.

Augers jump around a lot (any rock or tree root makes it jump), I wouldn't want to try that many holes with a handheld. Buy the 3pt, use it and sell it when done if you wish for what you paid! I have done this with many tools in the past.

Oh - - I don't like the TO-20 3pt hitch *AT ALL*. 
It's "all up or all down", it doesn't stop in the middle, 
and the hydraulics only work when the PTO is engaged - 
it's about the worst tractor in existence for post hole digging! 
Not sure if your TO-30 has the same issues.


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## AdmiralD7S (Dec 6, 2012)

LincTex said:


> I bought a used 3pt post hole digger with a 9" auger. Even my F-I-L's TO-20 will handle it (power wise).
> 
> I use it on a Farmall C.
> 
> ...


Good to hear my 30 has the power. I agree on a lack of weight as I've found similar issues in other applications. I've also found it very hard to maintain a middle height on the back arms...if I do to watch it, sometimes my pallets will creep up or down with varying results.

I think I'm leaning towards buying one outright, whether it's new or used. Thanks for the input, LincTex!


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## millertimedoneright (May 13, 2013)

With a one person auger from tractor supply(300-400 new) one person could dig 30 holes in 2 hours easily. In medium tough soil I could dig most holes in 30 seconds down to a few feet easily. A four foot hole in clay took the longest at about 60-90 seconds. They are great tools to add to the shed if you have the need for a quick hole every now and then. Te only advice as far as using on is let the auger do the work for you or you will be nursing a sore back.


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## smaj100 (Oct 17, 2012)

I've fenced a lot of pasture over the past couple of years on our farm. I started with a few rental towed 1 man tiltable auger (horrible), then a tractor with 3 pt auger (no down force), a skid steer with an auger finally got most of the job done. Even with the power and weight of the skid depending on the soil conditions it'll be hard going. I'm in NW TN, lots of rock and clay. Eventually realized that even the holes the skid couldn't get deep enough start the holes, come back and fill with water, then hit the few with a one man auger that I purchased from harbor freight. I've since dug more holes with that little one man auger from HF than you can imagine. It starts up easy and is a work horse, but I wouldnt want to do 30+ holes in a 12hr period.


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## Viking (Mar 16, 2009)

millertimedoneright said:


> With a one person auger from tractor supply(300-400 new) one person could dig 30 holes in 2 hours easily. In medium tough soil I could dig most holes in 30 seconds down to a few feet easily. A four foot hole in clay took the longest at about 60-90 seconds. They are great tools to add to the shed if you have the need for a quick hole every now and then. Te only advice as far as using on is let the auger do the work for you or you will be nursing a sore back.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Survival Forum


If you have rocks like we have around here a one man auger would wear you out in a hurry, tough enough with a three point tractor mounted auger. The neighbor on our East side has it even worse, their property sits below a couple of canyon washes and just to dig holes with a shovel one needs to have a long iron bar to break things up. The only limitation I see with a tractor mounted auger is terrain, otherwise it certainly makes quick work of digging holes.


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## millertimedoneright (May 13, 2013)

Yea I definitely wouldn't want to use it in extremely rocky soil especially large compact rocks. The one man auger has it's place for sure. I know personally I have dug well over a hundred holes with one in just a few hours but the soil wasn't nothing extreme just loose soil in some places and clay in others. The key is to let the auger do the work for you and not try to force it. Good little tools but definitely not for extreme soil conditions. 


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## goshengirl (Dec 18, 2010)

For what it's worth, we went through the rent/buy decision, and we decided to buy this auger from Home Depot (it has both the power head and an 8" auguer). We haven't been sorry. Now, we also don't have any experience with any other auger, so maybe it's really crappy and we just don't know any better. 

It starts really easy. It is wearing work, though. I can't imagine doing 30 holes in one day. We have clay, rocks and roots, and some days we only get 4-5 holes dug (with posts set). We have to cut out roots, get to the rocks - its does take time. We also use this post hole digger and this digger/tamping bar.

I imagine an auger attached to a tractor would have much more power and would power through roots and clay better, but we didn't have that option. Maybe a two-person auger would have more power, too - I don't know. But I'd much rather own it than rent it. It has come in handy for other jobs as well.


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## ZoomZoom (Dec 18, 2009)

I'll pile on and say get a 3PH version. Know anyone that has one you can borrow? If you were closer, you could borrow mine.

If you buy a used one, check the teeth. Makes a huge difference if they're shot. About the same as cutting wood with sharp vs dull chain.

With the 3PH version, where the gearbox mounts to the top boom, there's a nice place to slide a 2x4 in there. I get a 2x4 about 6-8' long, stick it in there then have someone stand that 6' behind the PHD and use that as a guide to keep the auger straight up when getting started then use it to apply weight (basically, hang from it) to get down force to bore your way in.


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## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

ZoomZoom said:


> With the 3PH version, where the gearbox mounts to the top boom, there's a nice place to slide a 2x4 in there. I get a 2x4 about 6-8' long, stick it in there then have someone stand that 6' behind the PHD and use that as a guide to keep the auger straight up when getting started then use it to apply weight (basically, hang from it) to get down force to bore your way in.


The gap on mine is too narrow to slide a 2x4 in. I made a little rack on the top of the boom from old bed-frame angle iron that holds an old pair of cast iron Dodge 440 cylinder heads for down-weight. Seems to be fine for the most part, but every once in a great while I think about pouring $2.68 worth of QuickRete over the mess for a bit more weight. I guess I should just fill some sandbags someday and toss a couple on if needed.


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## Tirediron (Jul 12, 2010)

If you chose to go with the used 3PH auger I would definitely look at the condition and quantity of oil in the gear box and look to see where it was made, the new Chinese auger may be cheap price wise but it will probably be cheap quality wise too. 

the ferguson 3 point should be well behaved, is the top link reaction valve out of adjustment,


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## AdmiralD7S (Dec 6, 2012)

Tirediron said:


> If you chose to go with the used 3PH auger I would definitely look at the condition and quantity of oil in the gear box and look to see where it was made, the new Chinese auger may be cheap price wise but it will probably be cheap quality wise too.
> 
> the ferguson 3 point should be well behaved, is the top link reaction valve out of adjustment,


Think we lost the last part of your post there...

My ferguson is in running condition, but certainly could use a tune-up. I have intentions of either rebuilding or having the engine rebuilt. When I do that, I'll replace the clutch. I've been somewhat hesitant because I'm busy enough without splitting the tractor in half. Back brakes also need redone. Given all that, I'm sure my 3PH isn't within he tightest of tolerances right now. What would be a good way to "measure" the degree of slop for that?


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## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

Tirediron said:


> the ferguson 3 point should be well behaved, is the top link reaction valve out of adjustment,


The top link on a Ferguson has no real way of "working like Ferguson intended" with a 3pt post hole digger because it can't "sense draft" like a mounted plow.


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## ZoomZoom (Dec 18, 2009)

I'd just drop your 3PH lever and let it want to go all the way down. Do you have any aftermarket or homemade anti-sway setup for your lower link arms so they can't swing side-to-side when you have an implement? The less sway you have, the better your chances of having a clean hole that goes straight down.

I'm assuming you have the chains to keep the links from hitting the tires. If you could get your PHD on then tighten those, it would help. _I'd suggest a cheap bolt as opposed to something like a chain binder. If the PHD catches something and needs to twist, you'll want those bolts to shear instead of breaking something else._


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## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

ZoomZoom said:


> I'd just drop your 3PH lever and let it want to go all the way down.


In this case, I *DO* enjoy having the hydraulics on my Super C separate from the PTO shaft.

When I get to the bottom of the hole, I always stop the PTO. At this point, the flighting is covered with dirt. I then raise the auger with the PTO off... and when it is all the way out of the hole, I then kick the PTO on to "spin the dirt off". This works really well to pull the dirt up and out of the hole.



ZoomZoom said:


> If the PHD catches something and needs to twist, you'll want those bolts to shear instead of breaking something else.


Mine uses a 3/8" bolt where the PTO shaft attaches to the gearbox input shaft. I only use the softest bolts I can find (no head markings - from China at TSC!) in this location. The auger is held onto the output with two 1/2" bolts.

I have never sheared any of these - - but I also run at a pretty low RPM - just off idle (about 60 RPM on the auger, or 1 turn per second). The tractor engine would kill before any of the bolts shear - and even that happens very very seldom.


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## mosquitomountainman (Jan 25, 2010)

I've always just dug them by hand. Even in our rocky soil (with lots of clay) I can do 15 in half of a day. If your ground is easy to dig in it wouldn't be too bad. I'd spread it out over a couple of days though.

If your ground is difficult it is going to be bad no matter what you use. My uncle had a tractor mounted one. He had lots of rocks and thick clay and gumbo to deal with. The clay/gumbo mix was worst since the auger would bite and screw itself right into the ground. It would shear the pin after a few turns then it was get out the pipe wrench and cheater bar and back the thing ("unscrew" it!) out of the hole and start over. The lift on the three point would just raise the front of the tractor up (a Ford 5000) instead of bringing the auger out of the ground.

If I had a big project I'd probably hire the neighbor to dig the holes with his tractor powered auger. (I don't own a tractor.)


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## Jim1590 (Jul 11, 2012)

You are all making me jealous with my regular old post hole digger! Did 3 whole posts in an afternoon!


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## AdmiralD7S (Dec 6, 2012)

Jim1590 said:


> You are all making me jealous with my regular old post hole digger! Did 3 whole posts in an afternoon!


Been there, done that. I can do it, but my arms don't like me. If I had more time, I would probably go this route, but I'm away from home for 3 weeks, and then have a week or so to get everything dug, placed, built, etc. fiancé's broken leg is almost back to normal, but it really set us back with me trying to keep up with everything :/


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## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

mosquitomountainman said:


> I've always just dug them by hand. Even in our rocky soil (with lots of clay) I can do 15 in half of a day. If your ground is easy to dig in it wouldn't be too bad. I'd spread it out over a couple of days though.
> 
> If I had a big project I'd probably hire the neighbor to dig the holes with his tractor powered auger. (I don't own a tractor.)


There are spots where I have to actually BREAK up rock (solid limestone) with a digging bar to make a hole.

Clay isn't too bad if its dry... wet clay is about impossible to auger.

There are tractors around here that use a small auger mounted on a vertical sliding rig with a direct acting hydraulic cylinder - hear they go through anything short of solid granite!

Something kind of like this:


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## crabapple (Jan 1, 2012)

AdmiralD7S said:


> Time once more to ask for some advice from my elders
> 
> I've got roughly 30 holes to drill in late September. I can rent a one-man auger for $140/day, final cost, and I'd only need it one day (for now).
> 
> ...


I have my father TO-30 & a 3ph auger, I think it is a 12".
He did 30 arces of fencing with them using RR ties, even some 16" X 16" bridge
members, that he had to drill the hole in the four corner to make the hole big enough to handle the BM post.
  
 

Cut holes like the smiles here for the BM post.

You should test the auger, before you buy it.


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