# Survival Water



## RevWC

I did some research on water filters and water purification and I think this could be the most cost effective way to purify water. All you need is bleach, funnel, and coffee filters. 8 drops of bleach per gallon of water = approximately 4500 gallons of fresh water. Use the funnel and coffee filters for muddy water to remove debris. I have 4 gallons of bleach probably 3 years of water.


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## Emerald

From what I understand, liquid bleach is not the best "chlorine" to use to purify water.. buy a big bag of pool shock instead. I'm sure that the others here will be able to clarify this better than me.


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## LincTex

Liquid bleach from the store slowly turns into salt water over time. It usually only lasts one year.

What you want is Calcium Hypochlorite, or "Pool Shock". You want it as pure as you can get, with as few inert ingredients possible, and *NO* "anti-algae" or other weird chemicals added.


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## JayJay

Okay, here goes,
~~First you must make the solution….
1 heaping tsp of shock to 2 gallons of water
~~now, with the solution, make the bleach….
1/4 cup of solution to 6 quarts of water
~~now, with the bleach, purify your drinking water…5 drops of bleach to a gallon of water.
When finished, you will have pool shock still in the container used for storage; a 6 qt bleach bottle; and a gallon of drinking water.
This method will provide for you for a very long time.

No old bleach to worry about storing, leaking, and getting old; inexpensive since bleach is 1.50 per gallon; no worries about harming your stomach with bleach chemicals; and the greatest plus---no storage space needed for those huge gallon jugs!!


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## Cahri

RevWC said:


> I did some research on water filters and water purification and I think this could be the most cost effective way to purify water. All you need is bleach, funnel, and coffee filters. 8 drops of bleach per gallon of water = approximately 4500 gallons of fresh water. Use the funnel and coffee filters for muddy water to remove debris. I have 4 gallons of bleach probably 3 years of water.


Go to 
FindaSpring.com - Online Spring Database
and go get it yourself, can't get any better than that. We did it and after buying 24-5 gallon containers from the ready store, we found one near us and drove out there, and believe me , we were not the only ones there. Be safe, get pure water...


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## jbillh

Hi Folks,

Maybe I'm just not aware of the science behind this...but do you really want to drink water treated that way?

I spent a year and a half in South America many years ago and chlorinated my water with similar stuff and it tasted and smelled awful. Not to mention that it sometimes made me feel kinda sick.

Maybe it was all in my head...I can't really say. But I sure hated the water down there. There must be a better way.

ATB,

Bill


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## JayJay

jbillh said:


> Hi Folks,
> 
> Maybe I'm just not aware of the science behind this...but do you really want to drink water treated that way?
> 
> I spent a year and a half in South America many years ago and chlorinated my water with similar stuff and it tasted and smelled awful. Not to mention that it sometimes made me feel kinda sick.
> 
> Maybe it was all in my head...I can't really say. But I sure hated the water down there. There must be a better way.
> 
> ATB,
> 
> Bill


~~~I spent a year and a half in South America many years ago and chlorinated my water with similar stuff and it tasted and smelled awful~~~

I bet that's what that Crystal Light, Tang, Instant Tea, and Koolaid are for in my beverage storage tote!!!


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## jbillh

Yeah, I think that's exactly right!

I still think the chemicals can't be good for you though.

All the Best,

Bill


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## RevWC

*Emergency Water*

We are talking emergency water here, I did forget to tell you to wait 30 minutes prior to drinking, this allows for the chlorine to dissipate.


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## The_Blob

you can always attach one of these to the spigot of your storage tank...

Rainshow'r Gard'n Gro Garden Filter System Only $49.99



> WARNING: The Gard'n Gro is specially designed for the garden, not as a drinking water filter. Its filtration media effectively removes chlorine from your garden water, but it is not designed to remove particulate matter or other water contaminants. Please also note that this filtration system is not recommended for use with fish ponds.


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## Expeditioner

RevWC said:


> We are talking emergency water here, I did forget to tell you to wait 30 minutes prior to drinking, this allows for the chlorine to dissipate.


The chlorine is not going to dissipate in an hour....unless used in really small quantities....like your original post suggested.

Not a big fan of the pool shock suggestion by LincTex. Seriously......consuming water with pool shock on a sustained basis is not good......read the Material Safety Data Sheet.

Also need to consider chemical contamination.....charcoal (pure not the garbage soaked in lighter fluid) and distillation. You can make a simple distilling unity with a tea kettle, funnel and cooper tubing.

I will rely on my Katadyn, iodine tablets, solar still, boiling, etc. Much safer.


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## LincTex

Expeditioner said:


> Not a big fan of the pool shock suggestion by LincTex. Seriously......consuming water with pool shock on a sustained basis is not good......read the Material Safety Data Sheet.


The MSDS for table salt is not much better. I think the LD-50 numbers are similar for both products, really. Table salt is actually one of the most toxic chemicals around if you eat enough of it. That is why you use only very, very small amounts at any given time.

Read the instructions JayJay posted. There are several very good instructional documents on the 'net on how to make bleach from pool shock.

The pool shock is not meant to be consumed as-is - - I never advocated that and never will. It is used to make chlorine bleach solution, which is what you have indeed drank in very small quantities if you have ever consumed any municipal treated water. The pool shock will store for years, whereas store bought bleach will not.

Pool shock is handy, and a good staple to have on hand. If you are prudent, you can prepare treated water in batches and never have to deal with chlorine taste and smell. It is all about how you handle your water.


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## JayJay

Guys...lighten up!!!
I also am not relying on pool shock alone.
I have a Berkey, coffee filters, alum, and under certain circumstances, MAY use my Coleman fuel to boil water, but would be extreme for me to do that.
Of course, the wood burning stove can be lit and fired up if needed.
Happy now??
In case you have forgotten, this is a sharing info. forum, not a dictatorship.


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## Emerald

There is a remedy to the chlorine water- just like with city water you let it sit in an open topped container for 24 hours and the chlorine will dissipate and leave you better tasting water... 
If you have the power you can also rig an air rock and pump and run air thru the chlorinated water and over night and it will remove it better. (they sell battery operated pumps and air rocks for folks who fish and use it in their live wells. From little for minnows and large for game fish).
I hated living in the city and having to drink that nasty pool tasting water. But after learning to run a few gallons in big glass pitchers with a clean tea towel over it and left on the counter for at least 24 hours, you could then put it in the fridge and have drinkable water.
While I am a big proponent of not ingesting chemicals, I am willing to risk a bit of chlorine in my water as compared getting all kinds of dysentery or other even worse gross things and possibly dieing from it... And never forget that before modern times a case of diarrhea could kill ya.


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## LincTex

JayJay said:


> Guys...lighten up!!!


I am a little surprised.... I didn't think anyone was being rude to anyone else. This is really a pretty calm conversation compared to many others I have seen on the internet 

How many of you plan to use a bio-sand filter?

Biosandfilter.org

BioSand Filter - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I figure I will do my water emergency preps like this:
Step 1: Obtain nasty, cloudy water and let it settle
Step 2: Run it through the biosand filter (gets it about 98% ready)
Step 3: Add a small amount of home-made Chlorine (to kill the last 2%) then let chlorine evaporate out.

At this point, it should be ready to drink. You could go one step further:
Step 4: Run through the Berkey - but only if it seems to be needed.

I think this plan will give drinking quality water from any non-chemical-fouled source, and without any boiling. Boiling takes too much time and energy out of a person's schedule and wastes fuel.


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## jbillh

*The easy way first...*

Hi Folks,

Yeah, I'm not sure where the offense happened, but if it was me it was sure unintended. Peace.

The bio sand thing looks interesting and I think it is a bit of knowledge we should all have. I'm sort of an "easy way first" kinda guy 

When/if we run out of our purification elements (or get close to it,) bio sand may be the best way left. We always need good backups for any survival preparations.

NASA always talks about "triple redundancy for critical systems." I think that is a good standard to apply, especially if it is as important as food and water.

Definitely want some chemicals and fuel on-hand too.

All the Best,

Bill


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## JayJay

Sorry Linctex...I'm an ex-teacher...just old philosophies coming out--say something nice, constructive, or positive, or not at all.
I get the feeling some here forget we're adults responsible for our actions ...or we wouldn't be here..lol


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## Emerald

I posted a few links to 'how to make a biosand filter' here on the water forums somewhere-just a week or so ago it seems.. They use the biosand filters in Haiti right now and they are really good at filtering the bad biological critters out. As most US waters are infected with giardia cysts it only makes sense to learn to filter it out.

I really think that drinking river water and unclean sources are gonna be the downfall of many city folks after :shtf: And that is a horrible way to go.


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## Drumrunner

*beg to differ*



RevWC said:


> I did some research on water filters and water purification and I think this could be the most cost effective way to purify water. All you need is bleach, funnel, and coffee filters. 8 drops of bleach per gallon of water = approximately 4500 gallons of fresh water. Use the funnel and coffee filters for muddy water to remove debris. I have 4 gallons of bleach probably 3 years of water.


Hi. I read your post about using coffee filters and I must beg to differ. A couple of years ago I actually tried filtering some lake water with coffee filters, here is the results:
Picasa Web Albums - larry - water test

What the experiment showed is that this method does not work well at all. By the way, I have purchased aluminum sulfate and activated carbon from this company (completely not affiliated with them) and have been totally satisfied with their chemicals and prompt shipping;
http://www.cqconcepts.com/products.php


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## jebrown

I have been teaching disaster preparedness for 33 years. 
Here are some of the things I have learned about water storage.
Water does not spoil or deteriorate. If there is any bacteria no matter how minute, it will grow and multiply.
Any water with an off taste can be improved by pouring it between two containers.
Bottled chlorine bleach is an extremely powerful chemical. It virtually kills any plant, bacteria or virus life it comes in contact with.
Pool Shock is mainly for killing algae in pool and hot tubs. It has the benefit of killing some other things as well. 
Certain fungus can grow in a pool or hot tub that gets on the skin and causes itching. Pool Shock does not kill this fungus. The pool or hot tub has to be treated with liquid chlorine bleach. This problem tends to be most common but not limited to warmer climates.
With pool Shock there is no known or guaranteed level of ingredients. Other products are put into it that enhance water clarity and provide a pleasent smell to the water. Two of these are powdered silica sand and powdered calcium derived from ground up bones.
Pool Shock can cause nausea, stomach cramps and severe diarrhea. I knw some of you will say you have used Pool Shock with no problems but it does happen and it is not that uncommom of an experience.
Straining water through a coffee filter should be used to remove solid material only such as sand, rocks, plant or wood particles etc.. It will still need to be purified.
Water stored should be purified when put into the storage container which should be sterialized before being filled with water. Use only food grade plastic. Avoid swings in temperature as much as possible. Also one that does not allow light through or store in a space that doesn't expose them to light.
A common misconception is that water needs to be rotated every six months or what ever. This advice stems from the people who bottle water to frighten you into a continuous purchase of thier water.
many people advise against the use of soda pop bottles claiming that they are too thin. A bottle of soda pop is cabonated with CO2. We all have experienced a bottle that has bee shaken, not a favorite way to take a shower. Theese plastic bottles can withstand the increased pressure when bottles get shaken during transport or dropped.

Jerry


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## jbillh

Thanks Drumrunner,

I had no idea alum would help separate the algae out like that. That's at least a good "pre-filter" for whatever your next step is.

Posting the photos and info was a mighty thoughtful thing for you to do. Thanks Much!

Bill


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## Drumrunner

*next step*



jbillh said:


> Thanks Drumrunner,
> 
> I had no idea alum would help separate the algae out like that. That's at least a good "pre-filter" for whatever your next step is.
> 
> Posting the photos and info was a mighty thoughtful thing for you to do. Thanks Much!
> 
> Bill


Very welcome, Bill. My next step after the alum is quite simple. I 'harvest' the clarified water only and leave a little of the sludge in the bottom as seed for the next batch for alum treatment unless it gets really thick. Then the water goes into a 5 gallon bucket rough filter that I made.
The bucket has 4 3/4" holes drilled (for rapid flow through), a thin layer of polyester batting on the bottom to hold the clean pool sand which fills the bucket about 3/4 full. This captures the floating suspended solids and is easily cleaned as necessary.
The whole idea is to reduce the solids in raw water by as much as 98% before it is final filtered through my Berkey. It may be weeks before I have to clean the filter elements of the Berkey this way. As a side note, it also takes very little sodium hypochlorite (bleach) to perform the final disinfection.


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## jbillh

Thanks Again Drumrunner!

Are you living on lake water or some other "non-tap" water full-time? If so... how's that going for you?

All the Best,

Bill


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## ReadyMom

JayJay said:


> Guys...lighten up!!!
> I also am not relying on pool shock alone.
> I have a Berkey, coffee filters, alum, and under certain circumstances, MAY use my Coleman fuel to boil water, but would be extreme for me to do that.
> Of course, the wood burning stove can be lit and fired up if needed.
> Happy now??
> In case you have forgotten, this is a sharing info. forum, not a dictatorship.


Good information! Always have a back up for your back up. And if possible, back those up too!  -k


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## ReadyMom

jebrown said:


> I have been teaching disaster preparedness for 33 years.
> Here are some of the things I have learned about water storage.
> Water does not spoil or deteriorate. If there is any bacteria no matter how minute, it will grow and multiply.
> Any water with an off taste can be improved by pouring it between two containers.
> Bottled chlorine bleach is an extremely powerful chemical. It virtually kills any plant, bacteria or virus life it comes in contact with.
> Pool Shock is mainly for killing algae in pool and hot tubs. It has the benefit of killing some other things as well.
> Certain fungus can grow in a pool or hot tub that gets on the skin and causes itching. Pool Shock does not kill this fungus. The pool or hot tub has to be treated with liquid chlorine bleach. This problem tends to be most common but not limited to warmer climates.
> With pool Shock there is no known or guaranteed level of ingredients. Other products are put into it that enhance water clarity and provide a pleasent smell to the water. Two of these are powdered silica sand and powdered calcium derived from ground up bones.
> Pool Shock can cause nausea, stomach cramps and severe diarrhea. I knw some of you will say you have used Pool Shock with no problems but it does happen and it is not that uncommom of an experience.
> Straining water through a coffee filter should be used to remove solid material only such as sand, rocks, plant or wood particles etc.. It will still need to be purified.
> Water stored should be purified when put into the storage container which should be sterialized before being filled with water. Use only food grade plastic. Avoid swings in temperature as much as possible. Also one that does not allow light through or store in a space that doesn't expose them to light.
> A common misconception is that water needs to be rotated every six months or what ever. This advice stems from the people who bottle water to frighten you into a continuous purchase of thier water.
> many people advise against the use of soda pop bottles claiming that they are too thin. A bottle of soda pop is cabonated with CO2. We all have experienced a bottle that has bee shaken, not a favorite way to take a shower. Theese plastic bottles can withstand the increased pressure when bottles get shaken during transport or dropped.
> 
> Jerry


GREAT information! Thank you! :2thumb: -k


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## Drumrunner

*RE Bill*



jbillh said:


> Thanks Again Drumrunner!
> 
> Are you living on lake water or some other "non-tap" water full-time? If so... how's that going for you?
> 
> All the Best,
> 
> Bill


No, not completely off the municipal tap since the water is of excellent quality and still reasonably priced. I have actually used the method I described, however I built an additional component after final filtration in the form of an activated carbon flow through column. After all treatments were finished, I took a half dozen samples and had a lab perform a bio-analysis and chemical analysis on the water after disinfection. The results were interesting, a couple of bacteria colonies (soil variety) still survived, but just barely, no pathogenic organisms however were present on the petri dish from any of the 6 samples.

When the results came back, I re-tested the free chlorine residual (1.0 ppm), filled a glass with ice cubes and my processed water and drank it. I'm still here! Colorado licensed water plant operator 18502


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## jbillh

Thanks for the reply Drumrunner!

I've been considering getting some of the worst swamp water I can find and running it through my Berkey. I'd then send it to a lab for testing.

I imagine there are kits for such and you have to be extremely careful about cross contamination etc. Any recommendations?

Should I just give them my Berkey and a bucket of swamp water so they can perform the test and check the before and after?

Thanks for bringing your expertise to this forum!

All the Best,

Bill


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## LincTex

jbillh said:


> I've been considering getting some of the worst swamp water I can find and running it through my Berkey. I'd then send it to a lab for testing.


That would certainly be the extreme.

In a pinch it would work (with maybe a few drops of chlorine in the final product just to be safe) but it sure is tough on your expensive Berkey filters. Yes, they can be cleaned off, but there sure are better ways to get the water ready first.


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## jbillh

Yeah, that would be the extreme but I'd like to have a data-set that was from another independent source that proves the claims behind the Black Berkey Purification Elements. 

I don't really doubt the claims or data I've seen, but it's generally a good practice to have multiple organizations verify things.

All the Best,

Bill


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## Immolatus

*Question about pool shock.*

Following Linc and Jays posts about shock, does anyone have a recommendation for a brand/type? Just get the highest percentage Calcium Hypochlorite I can? In looking for this stuff, theres a lot of choices.

Thanks!


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## LincTex

Immolatus said:


> Following Linc and Jays posts about shock, does anyone have a recommendation for a brand/type? Just get the highest percentage Calcium Hypochlorite I can? In looking for this stuff, theres a lot of choices.


I called one pool supply house, they only sell to professional pool cleaners. I didn't try the other one yet.

Only one wal-mart within a couple hour's drive sells HTH SUPER shock-n-swim, which is 52%. The other ones I have seen were always a bit less concentrated than that.


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## Immolatus

Is that high enough? Ive seen 70 some %. I think I seen 98 in my sis in laws catalogue.


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## LincTex

Immolatus said:


> Is that high enough? Ive seen 70 some %. I think I seen 98 in my sis in laws catalogue.


I haven't found any that strong... it would be best. It's just harder to find around here


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## Immolatus

And a just as important question, have you actually drunk water treated like this?
This is 73%
I gonna have to admit Im a little afraid of this stuff.


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## LincTex

Immolatus said:


> And a just as important question, have you actually drunk water treated like this?


It is used only to make bleach... and only a few drops of bleach per gallon of water is all that is needed.

Calcium hypochlorite sounds a lot less dangerous than sodium hypochlorite (household bleach).... 
I do not have a degree in organic chemistry, but I know calcium compounds are far less dangerous to people the sodium based compounds.


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## LincTex

Well I just looked up the LD50 numbers for each one, and apparently Ca hypo seems to be a little more dangerous than Na hypo. I wonder if there is any real difference in practice. 

FOR ALL PRACTICAL PURPOSES, the LD50 numbers for either one is pretty low mg/kg, relatively speaking. Ca hypo is slightly worse than table salt. Na hypo is actually lower than table salt(weird). At any rate, at the concentrations we are talking about, if you have any salt at all in your diet, you are doing your body worse, relatively to having a little Ca or Na hypochlorite in your diet.

I wouldn't be worried about the health risks.... I would rather you treat water if needed than to drink untreated water. Follow the guidelines - - it doesn't take much.


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## Immolatus

Roger that, thanks for the help.

Sooo, have you actually drunk any of this treated water? Do you have 3 eyes? Abnormally large head?


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## Drumrunner

*MSDS folks*

Calcium Hypochlorite

it bothers me quite a bit reading some of the comments I have seen regarding using calcium hypochlorite, please take the time to review the MDSD link above. From many years of personal experience, this stuff is NOT to be fooled with lightly. Case in point: myself. I have two scars on my right forearm when a concentrated solution of calcium hypochlorite landed on my skin, producing some rather nasty 2nd degree burns. God help you if it gets in your eyes.


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## RevWC

Some additional information: "In an emergency, to purify drinking water, two methods are most often used. They are boiling the water and adding chlorine (household bleach, such as Chlorox) to it. This calculator determines the quantity of bleach and water mixture to meet the desired emergency water purification mixture, based on the condition of the target water. Most emergency experts and health officials suggest a mixture of 8 drops of bleach to a gallon of generally clear water for best results. Based on environment or cloudiness of the water, you may want to change the quantity of drops to 16 per gallon of cloudy or murky water. Enter the maximum possible volume of water container. The entry should be in gallons. Enter the desired drops of the bleach per gallon and select the appropriate water condition from the drop down box. Click on Calculate and read the calculated result in drops that should be added to the volume of water specified. Please remember that this is a guideline. 

As suggested by the EPA, vigorous boiling for at least one minute (preferably more) will kill any disease causing microorganisms present in water (at altitudes above 5000 feet above sea level, boil for three to five minutes longer). The flat taste of boiled water can be improved by pouring it back and forth from one container to another (called aeration), by allowing it to stand in a closed container for a few hours, or by adding a small pinch of salt for each quart of water boiled. When boiling is not practical, chemical disinfection should be used. Common household bleach contains a chlorine compound that will disinfect water. The treated water should be mixed thoroughly and allowed to stand, preferably covered, for 30 minutes. The water should have a slight chlorine odor; if not, repeat the dosage and allow the water to stand for an additional 15 minutes. If the treated water has too strong a chlorine taste, it can be made more pleasing by allowing the water to stand exposed to the air for a few hours or by pouring it from one clean container to another several times. 

As suggested by Chlorox (with their permission), this is an excerpt from company published documents.

Boiling Is Best
Short of using a very high-quality water filter, this is the most reliable method for killing microbes and parasites. Bring water to a rolling boil and keep it simmering for at least several minutes. Add one minute of boiling to the initial 10 minutes for every 1,000 feet above sea level. Cover the pot to shorten boiling time and conserve fuel.

Liquid Clorox Bleach 
In an emergency, think of this (one gallon of Regular Clorox Bleach) as 3,800 gallons of drinking water.

When the tap water stops flowing, Regular Clorox Bleach isn't just a laundry-aid, it's a lifesaver. Use it to purify water, and you'll have something to drink.

It's the same in any natural disaster. As the shock wears off and the days wear on, the biggest demand is for drinking water. Time after time, relief crews hand out free Clorox Bleach with simple instructions: use it to kill bacteria in your water and you'll have purified water to drink. Here are the general guidelines.

First let water stand until particles settle. Filter the particles if necessary with layers of cloth, coffee filters, or fine paper towels. Pour the clear water into an uncontaminated container and add Regular Clorox Bleach per the below indicated ratio. Mix well. Wait 30 min. Water should have a slight bleach odor. If not, repeat dose. Wait 15 min. Sniff again. Keep an eyedropper taped to your emergency bottle of Clorox Bleach, since purifying small amounts of water requires only a few drops. Bleach must be fresh for best use and results. See below suggestions for storage bottle replacement.

Don't pour purified water into contaminated containers. Sanitize water jugs first.

Without water and electricity, even everyday tasks are tough. In lieu of steaming hot water, sanitize dishes, pots and utensils with a little Clorox Bleach. Just follow the directions below to keep dishes clean.

Whether you use Clorox Bleach in an emergency or for everyday chores, it's always an environmentally sound choice. After its work is done, Clorox Bleach breaks down to little more than salt and water, which is acceptable anytime.

Ratio of Clorox Bleach to Water for Purification 

2 drops of Regular Clorox Bleach per quart of water
8 drops of Regular Clorox Bleach per gallon of water
1/2 teaspoon Regular Clorox Bleach per five gallons of water
If water is cloudy, double the recommended dosages of Clorox Bleach.

Only use Regular Clorox Bleach (not Fresh Scent or Lemon Fresh). To insure that Clorox Bleach is at its full strength, rotate or replace your storage bottle minimally every three months.

Clorox Bleach Sanitizing Solution 

To sanitize containers and utensils, mix 1 tablespoon Regular Clorox Bleach with one gallon of water. Always wash and rinse items first, then let each item soak in Clorox Bleach Sanitizing Solution for 2 minutes. Drain and air dry."


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## stayingthegame

in the swim sell the chlorine and the same thing as washing soda. the chemistry store sells all sorts of chemicals and even has a few experiments that might be fun for kids. I have bought from both without any problems.


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## JayJay

Don't forget those inexpensive coffee filters for filtering grit from really dirty waters.


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## gitnready4it

awesome info,Thank You!


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## RamboMoe

Chlorine is a good short-term emergency option for water purification. You don't want to use it long term, though, because of toxicity building up in your system. Also, remember that chlorine is very poisonous, you need to make sure your doses are right. 2% iodine solution is probably a better and safer solution (but still short term).


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## jebrown

Toxicity build up frome chlorine bleach. Interesting thought.
Most municipal water supplies are treated with Sodium Hypochlorite which we all know is bleach to disinfect the water going to homes, businesses etc.

Jerry


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## Davarm

For those choosing to use Alum in your emergency water purification, be careful, Aluminum has been linked to Alzheimer and Dementia. I used to use it in my pickle recipes until I realized it was Aluminum sulfate.


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## RamboMoe

jebrown said:


> Toxicity build up frome chlorine bleach. Interesting thought.


Yeah I heard somewhere that it's an issue with Chlorine and Iodine. I can't verify that 100%, though.


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## LincTex

jebrown said:


> Toxicity build up frome chlorine bleach. Interesting thought.


Chlorine WILL dissipate out over time - - it's just that you have to give it time to do it 

If you use chlorine to purify water, use it to treast the water you do NOT intend to drink for a few days. Use it to kill the nasties in the water, then pour/agitate/aerate the water for a couple days after, and nearly all of the chlorine will evaporate out of the water, making it safe for your body.

Do NOT drink the chlorinated water after treating it unless you are dying of thirst. That is why you always need to have enough water to last for several days while waiting for the chlorine to go away from your treated batches.


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## RamboMoe

LincTex, that is a very good way to do things that I have never thought of. Interesting.


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## goshengirl

LincTex said:


> ... then pour/agitate/aerate the water for a couple days after, and nearly all of the chlorine will evaporate out of the water, making it safe for your body.


That makes sense. I remember when we were kids and had fish in a fishbowl (not a fancy aquarium). We couldn't use water straight from the tap because the chlorine in the tapwater would kill the fish. We had to let the water set out for at least a day while the chlorine aired out, then it was safe to use in the fishbowl.


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