# Water is life.



## ruffneck

I purchased an old cable drilling rig in 2005. This is where I'm at with the project:






Well, if you watched that, you may like this:





Stay safe!


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## Well_Driller

Reminds me I need to paint my rig... A couple things, 3/4" cable is OK but doesn't drill very good until you get down to 100ft or so, also you want to make sure the sheaves are not worn in with 5/8" cable or the narrow slot will damage the 3/4 cable. I've seen guys do it and regret it.... We use 5/8" as it drills better but our wells are typically in the 100 to 200ft range. Don't put too much time on that rope socket. You have to reset the cable in the rope socket or the cable will fatigue and break. If you're just doing one well then you won't have to worry about it. I typically reset mine about every 500ft. A friend of mine use to run them till the cable broke and he would get about 1,000ft of drilling out of it. I prefer not to have to fish things out. It will start showing signs of wear, keep an eye on it. Check tool joints too, make sure they stay tight, especially when drilling really hard formations. Unless you run into something really hard, you should be able to make 100ft or so in a couple long days.


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## LincTex

You have a cable rig, what are you going to do with the shiny new rotary bit on the right?


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## cowboyhermit

Good music in the first vid
Good luck.


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## Well_Driller

LincTex said:


> You have a cable rig, what are you going to do with the shiny new rotary bit on the right?


LincTex- that's what we call a button bit, it is a cable tool bit. The nice thing about these is they have those carbide buttons and last a long time. They hold size and drill great in hard stuff. I've got 2,000+ft of drilling out of my 6". Usually what happens to them when they wear out is the steel wears away exposing more of the carbide and the buttons start falling off. When they wear out we just get a new one.. Down side to those is they are so short, you can't make much more then 5ft of hole in very soft formations and clay before you have to pull out and bail the well. A lot of guys are using them now either because they don't know how to weld or properly dress a chisel bit. I typically start with a chisel bit because they drill faster in the top clay formations, then go to the button bit once I get into the bedrock. They were designed for drilling hard formations.


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## ruffneck

LincTex, looks like I'll be wearing that shiny new bit out

Thanks Well_Driller! I'll make sure that the cable fits the sheave. I know the cable that was originally on it was 3/4, but I ended up having to replace the sand line sheave. I tracked down a newer mast and put that on the rig. Yup, with the way my luck goes I'll be switching that crown sheave out again. That'll be a fun time

From what I know about pouring the babbit into the rope socket is an art in itself. My cable guy at Cascade Rigging gave me an intro to it. Everything clean, fray cable, melt babbit until a piece of newspaper can ignite and pour it in one pour. I had them attach it to my new cable and proof test it for my first time. I'm such a greenhorn!

They made it look easy in this video on you tube:


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## Well_Driller

Pouring the babbit is not hard to do. Some guys fray all the strands of the cable but you don't have to. Just wrap a wire around the cable to keep it from spreading apart, then you can un-twist the main strands and spread them below the wire wrap. Then cut the rope center out and try to get most of the grease off the strands. If you use a torch be carefull not to get it too hot or it will make the cable brittle. Make sure you pull cable through the rope socket and put the stinger/mandrel on before you spread it. wrap a damp rag around the top of the stinger tight and turn it upside down and you can pour the babbit in. Don't stand over top of it while pouring the babbit. Make sure you skim the junk off the top before you pour it. Also I hope you got the right cable. Wire rope for the drill line is a left-hand lay cable, this is important as it causes the tools to rotate in the direction so as to tighten tool joints rather than unscrew them.


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## ruffneck

My searches on the internet had me believing pouring your own babbit was a lost art and not easy to do. That's why I did it the hard way. Are there other options available besides babbit? I've seen some swedges I thought would work, I saw them on a drilling supply site. Didn't specify whether it was cable drilling approved or not. Sure would be easier if it could be used

It is left-hand lay A local old timer was explaining it to me how I want the cable bit to "snap" the bit like a whip while it stretches and swivels in a different spot. "That's how to drill through the rock" he said... 
Next thing on my punch list is assembling the drill string. They make it look easy in this video:






A water proof grease on the threads, food grade I would imagine. 
I need to either buy or fabricate my own bar and chain tightner... 
Putting the drill string together is going to be a big challenge, everyday is my first day at the drill rig.


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## Well_Driller

Pouring the babbit is the easiest to do. You can't use wedges. There is another way called dry-setting. This is something you have to see done, I cannot explain it, but basically it's like taking the separated main strands and looping them back up through in between the cable strands above where you tied the wire weaving them back through and down. Almost looks like a knot when done. Then once it's pulled up into the taper of the mandrel it will wedge in and will not pull through. I have used that method short of not having any babbit, but it's a real pain to get that back out of there when it comes time to reset a rope socket. Last 2 times I done it that way I had to burn the cable out of the taper with a torch. I rarely have to put together a string without a hole to work over, I try to do all that when i'm on a well if there's any changing that needs done, however I have had to assembled them on the ground before. What I do is screw everything together and and use a couple chain wrenches to tighten by hand. Then when you start a hole, and as you get deep enough you can put the big wrenches on and the chain bar and get them tight. Just keep an eye on it while your getting the hole started. I've never had a problem. Clay is soft, and you can't run fast anyway with 20ft of stem in the air. Once you get the whole string in the ground, and into the hard stuff you should be able to run somewhere between 50 to 60 strokes a minute, but speed will vary with different formations, typically you'll be a little slower in softer formations. You'll have to learn this but you can tell by the feel of the cable and the sound of the rig. Watch the sheave on the walking beam, you want to see just a little slack on the up stroke so the walking beam is running just a little ahead of the cable. I always go down touch the bottom then pick the tools up about 6" or so off the bottom. Then start the walking beam, and slowly increase speed and you may have to let a little cable out to hit bottom once you start. Also make sure the stroke on the rig is set to the longest setting. The long stroke will drill best. It's nice if you have someone to show you this. It is something you have to develop a feel for. A friend and I have done some training with a few guys, and I realized it is very hard for some to pick up on it. You also want to make sure you are hitting bottom, if you are not hitting bottom while drilling it is hard on the cable at the rope socket it will eventually break doing that. You do not want to be running with too much cable out either. You will get a crooked hole if you do that, and it is also hard on the cable.


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## ruffneck

Wow! What a wonderful description of the cable drilling process. I will be visualizing this as much as I can. I have searched and searched the internet for that kind of information and ended up with very little on the technique used.
I have some connections and hope to use them to show me the finer points. The guy I purchased it from used to drill, but he says it was a long time ago. He know some guys that are in the business he says would be more than willing to come out and help. I must admit, I was really shocked to hear that. I figured, they would rather have the business than to help out. After I learned about what the licensing requirements for a driller were, I understood I would never be a risk to their business. I think it's something like documenting 5,400 hours of working as a trainee under the direct supervision of a licensed well driller. :eyebulge: Nope, not ever going to have that kind of free time. It will be a fun hobby though, and maybe, a bartering tool. 

I have some jars. I think I've read I don't want to add them until I have the drill string in buried in the hole. Seems to make sense.

I will not be intimidated about the pouring the babbit any more. Wish I had the confidence before adding my new cable, it would've been a little easier. :laugh:

Thanks again for the help!


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## Well_Driller

There is A LOT to learn in short time. When you pour babbit, make sure everything is dry, do not get water in or around the molten babbit. You know what happens when someone puts ice in a deep fryer? Same thing will happen with water in babbit, molten metal all over the place! Just take the proper safety precautions and you'll be fine. I use a stainless steel flat bar with an L bent in the end to skim the crud off the top, but before I ever stick that in the melt I preheat it with a torch to make sure there's no moisture on it. Preheat the mandrel until it is too hot to touch before you pour babbit in that also. The rig will drill different in the many formations, different speeds, different feel. You might be drilling with the break on the drill spool set just right so it auto-feeds great, then you might get into a different formation and it can fool you, it might just sit there going up and down, hitting bottom, sound and feel right but not going anywhere. I've had a hard time getting guys to recognize this. You have to watch the drill spool too see if it's moving. It will just inch a little every stroke unless you're in something really hard, then it's hard to see it moving. You have to feel the cable. Anyway when it won't feed automatically you have to do it manually feeling the cable and let a little out but not too much. It can be touchy. Sometimes the rig will shake a great deal when you're not letting enough cable out, but the same can be said when there's too much. You have to be in the happy medium.


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## Jimmy24

This thread is about as cool as it gets!! Thanks guys for all your knowledge.

I jetted a 22' shallow well back about 25 years ago to water a garden. Worked well, but the REAL drillers stuff is coooolllll...

Jimmy


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## ruffneck

Thanks once again Well Driller. If only I'd known how to do the babbit before installing the new cable. It would have made that hot summer day a little bit shorter. 
The weather is now pretty nasty so I'm putting thing old for the drilling operations. I don't want to be out in bad weather my first time. This is a hobby and I want to enjoy the experience. I will be taking time to make some improvements to the rig. I was going to just use the four guy wires, but now I'll take the time to assemble the braces since I'll be lowering the mast again. Always something. 

Congrats on drilling your own well Jimmy! You're more roughneck than I am:2thumb:


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## ruffneck

A friend was talking about having to remove an old sawdust/coal burning furnace that had been converted to and oil burner. The thought of possibly using this as the furnace to heat up the drill bit and shape it entered my mind. 
It would be fun to have that skill in my toolbox. Plus, I could heat some outbuildings with sawdust. It would be nice to use the sawdust I accumulate from my sawmilling operation.
It's free, but do I really need this as a project? Have a day to decide...
Thoughts?


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## ruffneck

*There is a lot to learn in a short time...*

I decided not to get into a nightmare of a project like the furnace. I am not going into a business, I will take the bit in to get a fixin' when the time comes.

I left one of my 250 gallon tanks full and it froze. When it thawed there weren't any leaks. I'm going to hook up my tanks to my downspouts tomorrow. I'd like to fill up my 3,500 gallon water tank I bartered for 4x4s I milled.

My biggest handicap at this time is my truck being out of service. I'll be making the attack on it tomorrow. I am at a point where I need to get a very good ladder at the drill site and figure out the throttle and kill switch. It's a Farmall H engine.

My pine forest is in desperate need of a secure water supply.


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## LincTex

ruffneck said:


> ....and figure out the throttle and kill switch. It's a Farmall H engine.


Magneto or battery ignition?

Can you post pics of the engine?


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## ruffneck

LincTex, it is a magneto and has a 6 volt starter. I had read that it is a positive ground, an it does start that way. I ground a wire on the mag. to kill it now. I want something more industrial. I'll get some pictures posted soon. I'm trying to figure out how to hook up my throttle cable to the lever on the governor right now.
I'd like to track down a 2 volt starter for it. I'm using a 12 volt battery now. 
As always, it's two steps forward and one step back on this adventure.

Here's a video of the water dowser in action:


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## LincTex

ruffneck said:


> I'd like to track down a 12 volt starter for it. I'm using a 12 volt battery now.


it isn't necessary. Most all Farmall folks never change it. You won't over heat it and long as you aren't using it for long periods of time. A good running Farmall always fires off on the very first compression stroke anyway!


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## ruffneck

It starts, but not on the first crank. I'm gravity feeding it to the carb. Gas shoots out of a hole in the carb after cranking the engine and it not starting. I rebuilt the carb, that may be the problem right there. Once its running, it does just fine, no gas leaking. 
I am currently running my throttle with bailing wire attached to the lever on the governor. I just put a new throttle lever on, I think I just need to get a throttle cable and attach it to the governor lever to get it to work. 
The power unit the rig is supposed to have is the U4. I'm not to sure if there are any adjustment to be made on the Farmall H to get it to work in this application or not.
I feel like I'm into the fine tuning stage, finally.
Newest addition to my water tools, a 3,500 gallon tank I traded 16-16 foot 4x4s I milled and they were crooked. He was happy with the deal.
A friend gave me the pressure tank:


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## LincTex

ruffneck said:


> I think I just need to get a throttle cable and attach it to the governor lever to get it to work.


Should be a steel rod.



ruffneck said:


> The power unit the rig is supposed to have is the U4. I'm not to sure if there are any adjustment to be made on the Farmall H to get it to work in this application or not.


Last I checked, they were identical. The U2 was a Farmall (A or B) 113 cu in, yours is 152 cubes.

Does yours have the same throttle lever as this one?


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## ruffneck

Wish my engine ran on propane. The throttle on the tractor had a three foot rod connected to the throttle lever on the steering column and ran to a linkage connected to the valve cover. From there, a smaller bar ran from the linkage to the guvnor lever. 

I removed the engine from the Famall H and connected the clutch to that. I'm going to want to control my speed as I'm drilling so I'll want to control it a few feet from the engine. I'm thinking I'm thinking I'll attach the cable and pull down on the lever. The original cable and lever were pretty heavy duty.


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## LincTex

That is the correct throttle lever for that power unit, it is just relocated.

Those throttle cables are available from McMaster-Carr... 
or any combine/swather salvage yard


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## ruffneck

After giving it some thought and looking at it again it should be pretty simple Do you know what the oil pressure should be?

Driller, any suggestions on the lubrication I should be using for my tool joints or walking beams? I'm guessing a gear oil, the holes were fairly big on the brake. The walking beams were destroyed when I got the rig. Can't help but think about what the history of this rig is. I picked it up five miles from my location, so it makes me think it was used locally.

Thanks!


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## LincTex

ruffneck said:


> Do you know what the oil pressure should be?


Anything more than 20 psi when running under load should be fine. Most have more than that. I have seen Farmall engines with bearing clearances TWICE the spec and still make 20 psi! If it is less than that there is a problem somewhere.


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## ruffneck

OK, thanks LincTex. My pressure is around 50. I think a tune up may be in order. It's not starting on the first crank. I'll start with new plugs and wires. Not to sure how or what I need to do with the magneto. When attempting to start it, gas dumps out a hole in the carb if I have it choked and it doesn't start. Nothing comes out while it's running. The diagram calls it a drain hole.

Not much fun at the drill rig the other day, I am happy I lowered the mast and looked at it: 






So, it looks like the time has come to get this old three phase welding unit dialed in. The old timer I bought it from said it was used as a backup at the old shipyard. I'm a little nervous about it. I don't want to end up a black spot on the ground. One of the leads has rubber insulation that came from a rubber tree.
Looks like I need to learn how to operate this thing, it says Hornet on it.


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## LincTex

ruffneck said:


> When attempting to start it, gas dumps out a hole in the carb if I have it choked and it doesn't start. Nothing comes out while it's running. The diagram calls it a drain hole.
> 
> So, it looks like the time has come to get this old three phase welding unit dialed in. I'm a little nervous about it. I don't want to end up a black spot on the ground.


Your carb float level may be too high.... or you may have a bad inlet needle and needle seat. Does it drip gas all the time while not running?

Please take off the pipe between the air cleaner and the carb air inlet, and take a picture of the "choke plate"... (*I have a hunch*)....

Need more pics of the welder. Don't start it until you make SURE that mice haven't eaten the insulation off of the wires inside the terminal junction box!!

Is it a *Wilson Hornet?*


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## ruffneck

I'll try and get some pics my next trip. It leaks when I crank it and it doesn't start.

I have already started the unit once, after I purchased it. I'll check for a mouse nest now, it has sat long enough.

This is the unit running:





There are three wires coming out of the bottom front of the generator, they're close to 10 gauge wires. They are just capped right now.

It would be pretty cool to be able to use this old machine. I'm just a bit intimidated by the whole three phase thing and I'm, not a welder, yet:laugh:


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## LincTex

I thought so.

It isn't three phase... it s a *big* ol' DC welder 
(see the straight/reverse polarity switch?)

Looks like a 216 Chevrolet engine in front of it.

I think the float level in the H engine on your drilling rig is too high, 
and the little flapper in the choke plate is frozen shut (won't spring open)


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## Tirediron

When you put plug wires on your power plant try to find wire core wires, the wires for modern ignition break down fairly quickly with point or mag ignition, to the degree that there is too much resistance to fire the plugs, Standard Ignition makes a universal set , 3602 for 6 cylinders, probably 3402 for 4 cylinders.


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## LincTex

Tirediron said:


> the wires for modern ignition break down fairly quickly with point or mag ignition, to the degree that there is too much resistance to fire the plugs,


Or do what I do... and slap an MSD on there!! It *WILL* fire your plugs through WHATEVER you think resembles spark plug wires! LOL!!

Actually, Taylor Spiro-Pro wires are probably the best wires made anywhere. I think MSD wires are made the same as well. I would use them with any weak ignition system. If your ignition can muster any form of spark at all, those wires will get the "juice" to where it needs to be.

He also may already have solid core wires.... depending on how old they are.


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## Tirediron

Are you just using a normal 12v coil with the msd ? I tried an accel super coil on a continental flat head ,but had rotor burn through failures. The solid wires are cheap and for a customer fleet stock seems to work best.


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## LincTex

Tirediron said:


> Are you just using a normal 12v coil with the MSD?


Usually, Yes... I have never had one get hot. The stock 6 volt coil still resides on my Farmall C. I wonder if the MSD will kill it over time...



Tirediron said:


> I tried an accel super coil on a continental flat head, but had rotor burn through failures.


That is just weird... The only time I see that is when the gap is excessive between the rotor tip and the terminals in the cap. You'd be surprised to see how much it can be if you have never measured it.

I have repositioned the rotor tip many times on many, many rotors.... some with ~.100" gap!! And people are supposed to worry about spark plug gaps? Sheesh!!


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## Tirediron

The rotors and caps were stock the customer had, so they could have been poor quality, I changed to blue streak at the same time as I figured out we had plug problems NGK AB-6. I never got around to checking rotor gap, but now in hindsight I guess I should have. what method do you use to measure the gap ? 
.


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## LincTex

Tirediron said:


> what method do you use to measure the gap ?


Modeling clay works well, just like you use when checking piston-to-valve clearance. You don't need very much.

I have also just used a scale and a square and did the math after taking measurements of all dimensions.

The old-school way of checking is to take an old distributor cap and bore a hole in it between the terminals, and then just look inside as the rotor passes.


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## ruffneck

I need to learn myself about the MSD, I like the sounds of something being able to fire the smallest of sparks. I will get some wire core cables, and change the spark plug just to say I did. I obviously have a ways to go just learning about these old ignition systems 

I pulled the carb. today, sounds like I may need to check the float. Think I may have to rebuild it again. I'd sure like to get the engine dialed in, don't want any problems with it while I'm drilling. 

For some reason I thought it was three phase, I may have misunderstood the last owner. Straight and reverse polarity? Gonna have to look that up. I'm a little curious about those four wires. Any idea what they may be? I will pull the covers and check connections before I start it.

Thans so much for all the help and input!


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## Tirediron

Straight and reverse polarity refers to which of the poles is hooked to the electrode, reverse polarity is electrode positive,( which is kind of confusing in the current negative ground world, but at the time it was named most systems were positive ground, due to the theory that electrons flowed from negative to positive.) Most DC welding is done electrode positive or reverse polarity. Those old marvel shevler Carbs can be pretty fussy about the tiniest bit of dirt, a good inline filter (not Fram) helps them a lot. and unless they at used pretty often they can be pretty finicky. not liking to idle etc.


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## LincTex

ruffneck said:


> I need to learn myself about the MSD, I like the sounds of something being able to fire the smallest of sparks. I will get some wire core cables,


It depends on what you are going to have to pay for each (new wires or used "spark box"). I buy used "swap meet" MSD 5's and 6A's for $50... and then you can use any wire at all, really. Same with the plugs. There is SO MUCH juice firing those plugs with an MSD that I have gotten very very lazy about changing plugs, because they always fire - no matter what.

Also look at the Mallory HyFire for another good quality (yet inexpensive when bought used) ignition system. You'll never burn a set of points again, ever. Keep the rubbing block felt greased and they'll outlive you.


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## LincTex

I was going to buy this, but then got distracted on a large job about an hour before it ended and forgot to come back and bid again...

Good shape and great price

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MSD-6A-Ignition-1970s-Vintage-Series-1-MSD-IGNITION-/251466473081


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## ruffneck

Good call on not starting the generator. There was a mouse nest in it. I finally got some time to open up the access panels. The wires coming out of the front run back and connect to the top of the "bus panel". There are also three wires coming out of the bottom, they aren't connected to anything and the insulation is in poor shape. Any idea what these could have been used for? Can I just remove them altogether or possibly hook up a power source to it. 

He told me that he did weld with it when I bought it. When I looked at the cover panel after removing, it still looks like it's a three stamped on the phases, although there is a scratch going through it. 

I am certainly going to be continuing with extreme caution. Any suggestions on how to continue will be appreciated, as long as it's constructive of course

I think I may convert all my magnetos with this MSD. It's basically a electronic ignition right? I will have to keep my magnetos just in case an EMP hits us
Thanks for all the help!


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## Tirediron

A 3 phase generator would make a smoother welder, but I really don't know how it would be tied into the electrode power, Linctex can probably explain it in a lot clearer language than if I try to confuse you.


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## LincTex

The presence of brushes and a commutator makes this a DC only welder/generator, like the old Lincoln SA-200 welders that everyone pays $4000 for.

I would need more wiring info....

You can use a magneto - just gut it except for the points and use an external coil... but I would not recommend doing that. Regular "battery style" distributors are very common for Farmall engines.


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## Tirediron

I wonder if that welder was originally powered by a 3 phase electric motor similar to the lincoln SA-200s power line cousin, from before the rectifier days (we used the Lincoln electric motor welders in Tech school a few decades ago)


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## LincTex

I'm stumped... 

I have never seen a 3-phase power output on a DC (brushes/commutator) welder.... if that is what that is.


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## Tirediron

I can't find anything about the motor generator Lincolns on the net, but they made a lot of them, basicly a SA200 welder head with a big 3 phase electric motor powering it, the Wilson welder that ruffneck has could have been a similar unit that was late converted to a gas engine. the tag that shows 3 phase, has motor on it, and shows amps, A generator label should be in KVA or some other type watt reading. motor and engine being miss used names often confuses the difference between engine driven (reciprocating) and motor driven armature and windings.


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## LincTex

Possible.

Give me a multimeter, and about 2-3 hours of hands-on time and I'll tell you what every wire does 

You just have to get it to Texas!!!!


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## ruffneck

Lesson for the day, look on the inside of the cover when taking old equipment apart.

Looking a bit closer at the plate, I see there is information for the generator. It looks like it says 40 volts, 30 or maybe 300? amps at 1750 RPMS. 

If I were to use this as just a welding unit, couldn't I just disconnect all the auxiliary wiring. At least, what I'm thinking is the auxiliary? Three wires are just hanging on the "Line " side, they weren't covered with wire nuts or tape.

Give me a multimeter and 2-3 housrs and I'll make a mess of things

Thanks!


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## LincTex

I think Tired Iron is right... 
You would never put a start/stop switch on a welder :dunno: 

It sure looks like it was powered by three phase - - a huge rotary converter of sorts.

The three leads on the bottom can be removed.


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## Tirediron

Here is a pic of one with the motor still attached 
http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/28468/wilson_hornet.jpg

Not a whole lot of info on them out there


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## ruffneck

That picture from the Forestry Forum you posted looks familiar!
So, the input used to be a 3 phase electric motor. I'm slowly starting to get it I think.
The output will be 220 or 440 DC, depending on how it's wired. The wires that come out of the unit in the front are connected to the load side and those wires had wire nuts and tape. I don't ever see me needing DC power for anything, but maybe there is a use I'm not aware of. If I ever decided to use it for that in the future I would want to use new wiring anyway, I would think.

"The presence of brushes and a commutator makes this a DC only welder/generator, like the old Lincoln SA-200 welders that everyone pays $4000 for."
I think I paid $250 for this thing. I can't wait to use it someday. I bet parts will be hard to find if I need them. 
The ground cable has rubber insulation from a rubber tree, can't say I ever felt that in my hand before, surprisingly soft material. 
I don't know what it is about this old equipment, but I love the thought of saving and using it. Knowing this welder was used at the Willamette Shipyards back in the day is pretty neat. Do they make them like this anymore?
Oh, and I hope I haven't hijacked my own thread, I mean this is related to my hunt for water after all LOL.


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## LincTex

ruffneck said:


> I don't know what it is about this old equipment, but I love the thought of saving and using it.


It's a very common disease;
with relatively benign symptoms other than an empty wallet, a full yard, and an angry wife


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## Tirediron

LincTex said:


> It's a very common disease;
> with relatively benign symptoms other than an empty wallet, a full yard, and an angry wife


Yes I seem to have contracted several strains of it .............. the sneaky agricultural strain, the fairly deniable tool and shop machine strain and the industrial yellow strain, as well as the heavy transport version,:eyebulge: holy bat crap I need help


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## LincTex

I have a severe case of the "Onan CCK" strain, the "Farmall" strain, and the "grain/feed processing equipment" strain. 

Thankfully, (or unfortunately...under threat of divorce) I am now in remission. 

The most commonly heard expression is now: "You can buy xxxxx, but only if you sell yyyyy first"


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## ruffneck

I think I've wrapped my mind around this, somewhat anyway. 
Thanks! Motor side used to be three phase. The engine has replaced that, so I'm looking at a big DC welder that can provide 220/440 depending on how it is wired. 
It seems like the safest rout to go would be to set up the generator to just weld and remove any of the accessory wires.
This unit came with a broken axle, wheels and tires. That got me to start thinking how this unit would be grounded as I was using it. I removed the axle, tires and wheels and have placed the metal frame directly to a wood deck of the trailer.
Any concerns about grounding I should know before using this? I do not want to end up a black spot on the ground:eyebulge:


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## Tirediron

the welder generator head isn't always grounded to the chassis, the way an alternator for example would be. the leads should only be connected to the respective windings. It probably would be a good idea to make sure the current adjuster controls are covered with some kind of insulating material, in case of stray voltage in these circuits. it might also be a good idea to have the engine kill switch insulated, even though the system is low voltage (30V-50V or so) DC zaps are hard on the nervous system.


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## LincTex

ruffneck said:


> Any concerns about grounding I should know before using this? I do not want to end up a black spot on the ground


My portable welding rig sits on rubber tires and isn't grounded.

I never once even thought about it. Never been zapped either, even in wet grass.

Tired iron is right on with his advice.


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## ruffneck

Finally got my new tanks for the torch to the site yesterday. 155 miles away makes the smallest thing a challenge. 

After opening it up a bit, I couldn't believe my eyes. the metal piece that should hold the cable anchor was worn, it should be square. The other side is intact. The weld on one side was not intact and was rusted and the was a hairline crack on the other side.

I have no idea what could has caused such a thing. When I purchased the mast it didn't have the halyard cable. I installed it like it was on my old mast, I just missed this defect somehow. 

Don't think I'll need to test the cable, it's obviously bad at the anchor. 

It's a good thing I've been taking baby steps with this thing. Lots of bad could have come if I'd have pushed things. 

Safety is always number one when I'm there. Escape routs planed and I won't hesitate to use it if I feel the need to:laugh:

Now to design and fabricate a repair. I need to start practicing my welds


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## ruffneck

OK, I've been able to give this more thought. I think I can fabricate most of the job at my home base. I've used my local welder for everything else so far on this rig. I discovered him when I needed to track down a big press to change out my walking beam bearings. 
I can't believe how reasonable his work is. I usually give him enough of a tip for a case of beer.
Anyway, once I complete what I can away from the rig, think I'll just hire a mobile welder to weld the steel plate onto the mast beam.

This is no doubt this is a critical anchor, having the welds done by certified welders seems to be the prudent rout.:laugh: 
I would think I could find someone to weld for a couple hours for a couple hundred bucks but will have to look more into that. I would have everything prepped and clamped.

Thanks for lettin' me talk it out folks, stay safe!


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## Tirediron

The actual welding process is a very good value, what cost people is the vague description of what they want done and the pile of scrap that they want it built from. I love those prepped and clamped jobs, IF the guy who prepped and clamped it knows what he is doing.


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## ruffneck

Tracked down a certified mobile welder that's local. He charges $180 the first hour and $80 per hour after that. He'll take $100 off after four hours. Some things are better left to the pros. 

This has got to be the year to drill this hole.


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## LincTex

ruffneck said:


> I usually give him enough of a tip for a case of beer.


Most of the time around here, an actual case of beer is part of the transaction. Just need to know what label.


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## ruffneck

I figured out his taste and my machinist taste for beer after some time. I do tip with a case of Coors for both of them now


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## LincTex

ruffneck said:


> I do tip with a case of Coors for both of them now


Coors?

Sorry.........


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## ruffneck

LincTex said:


> Coors?
> 
> Sorry.........


One mans' poison is another mans' nectar


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## ruffneck

I am still alive:2thumb: Thing are appearing promising. Cable is repaired.


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## squerly

Great thread, great videos! Got that song stuck in my head though...


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## ruffneck

It's with a sigh of relief that I report that the broken part was not part of the anchor but a spacer for the fly section. The broken piece was causing it to get hung up somehow. I've redone the cable end and had it tested and the steel plate is fabricated. Now I just need to weld it to the beam. 
I have had to change my drilling plan. I have to get my power drop put in before next fall. I tried to dig where it will go, but like I suspected, I hit big rock just a foot deep. This puts my setup out in a rock field without any good anchors for my guy-lines. 
The mast I put on the rig came with bracing to support the mast but I think it with take some work to get it to fit right. I was able to anchor to some oak stumps where the well is located. 
I have seen some pretty cheesy looking anchors on cable rigs watching boob-tube, I'd just like to make it safe and easy for the 4 1/2 hole I need to drill for the power pole. 
Considering drilling the rock with a roto-hammer and epoxying some rebar and anchoring to that. 
4 1/2 feet is all I need and I will be able to keep the light on. :laugh:
Any advice is welcome!


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## ruffneck

OK, finally some progress. I'm going top try to complete the well before moving it. Feels good to have it at full mast finally. It is a little intimidating towering forty feet overhead.


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## nightwing

looks nice but I will go with a tamp tool rig & a sand pump
Or water jet I have all the hardware and pipe for a 3 inch 

lucky we do not have to punch more than 60 foot


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## ruffneck

Well, I got her to full mast. I have to admit, it's a little intimidating having this tower forty feet overhead but it feels good to have made progress:









I have tracked down a cable line saver and it's on its' way, $50 plus shipping.
I think I've found a way to tighten my tool joints too.









So I'm going to use some oak stumps as my anchor points, the stumps are still living so I believe it should be sufficient. See any problem with using these?








I'm still not to sure what to use as a lubricant in the walking beams. I was thinking gear oil at first but now I think that may be to thick. Oil would be much cheaper too. Anything is better than what was used before What do you guys use? Thanks!


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