# Wood stove purchase



## CulexPipiens (Nov 17, 2010)

I'm planning on getting a wood stove for our home. I'm considering a few options. One is the Vermont Castings Encore 2040 (http://vermontcastings.com/family/Stoves/Convertible/Encore-Two-In-One/)which looks to be new and can be run as a catalyst and as a non-catalyst stove. You simply remove the catalyst and run it as a normal stove with slightly less efficiency. Not cheap, but I believe it to be one of the best brands out there. I've also seen some "stone" wood stoves, like, for example, HearthStone, which has most of the stove wrapped in soapstone and supposedly takes a bit longer to heat up but also has a steadier heat for a longer period of time.

Any other suggestions? or reasons not to go with the VC brand?


----------



## ZoomZoom (Dec 18, 2009)

I put in new wood stoves last year. The stove I had that I was replacing was the catalytic type. Most mfgrs are going away from that since they found more efficient ways to accomplish the same thing. Also cheaper for the homeowner since you don't have to replace that catalyst every 5 or so years.

I thought my old stove burned well. This new one puts out the same heat but only burns 1/2 of the wood.


----------



## DJgang (Apr 10, 2011)

My VC has a catalyst shut off. (simple move of the leaver) It's on most of the time except when loading firewood and wanting an instant heat up of the immediate area. Having it on cut wood burning down in half.

Do you have to physically remove the catalyst on that model to turn off? If so, that's not good.

We've had lows in the low 30s already this year and I've not turned on our propane central pak yet. Not going to!

We have a three story, open basement of course it's cool down there, main level and upstairs that is a loft. So.....

Mine:
http://vermontcastings.com/family/Stoves/Convertible/Defiant-Two-In-One/

See the leaver on the left side? Pull forward to shut off main flute and force through catalyst.

I just looked at another picture of the Encore, it's the same way. So you can turn catalyst off or on very easily.

I'm partial, I've always wanting this VC stove since the day we first built our home 15 years ago. I didn't even look at any others. Probably should have but we didn't....


----------



## Jason (Jul 25, 2009)

I'm a big fan of putdoor wood furnaces. I've used a Hardy H5 since 2007 and love it. It taps into my existing baseboard heat but can also be tapped into a forced air system. Culex, I know this isn't what you were asking about but it's another option, especially if you already have some kind of heating in your home, as opposed to building a new home. Keeps all the wood mess outside, but they do go through a bunch of wood.


----------



## DJgang (Apr 10, 2011)

Jason said:


> I'm a big fan of putdoor wood furnaces. I've used a Hardy H5 since 2007 and love it. It taps into my existing baseboard heat but can also be tapped into a forced air system. Culex, I know this isn't what you were asking about but it's another option, especially if you already have some kind of heating in your home, as opposed to building a new home. Keeps all the wood mess outside, but they do go through a bunch of wood.


Yes! I looked at these. If I were building a new home, no doubt this would be the way, almost have to plan around the duct system just for it.

They wanted to connect to our existing air unit, which of course would take electricity, I was just getting into the prepping mindset and asked husband, what if we lose power, it will do us no good, we did not have the wall space at all nor attic, etc space for any new ducting. We had already had stove pipe from previous gas fireplace that we vented.....so...

But that really is nice, those Hardy's....now price :eyebulge:


----------



## CulexPipiens (Nov 17, 2010)

Thanks for the replies. Jason, due to our location, an outdoor isn't going to be an option (not that I haven't looked into just as FYI for now) Maybe down the road when we move to a more rural setting. For now an inside wood stove is the best option.

DJ, yes it's the junior version of the one you have, as you noted. Price is not the concern. I can find wood stoves for $300 at Menards, however this is one case where I believe you're going to get what you pay for and I'd rather just buy once and buy good instead of some cheap crap. A neighbor of ours just got replaced their wood stove as the the one they had was a cheap one. He said he wishes he would have gotten the better one right from the start.


----------



## Jason (Jul 25, 2009)

DJGang, the upfront is a little steep, but I look at it like this: I used to keep the house at 62° and went through 1200 gallons of heating oil per season. Now the house is 71° and I use about 30 gallons of gas between the saw and splitter, but we've put new windows and doors in the house too. These stoves are hungry and they smoke like a steam engine so they really aren't for everyone, but I'm glad you guys looked into them.


----------



## hiwall (Jun 15, 2012)

CulexPipiens, I think yours is an excellent choice!


----------



## DJgang (Apr 10, 2011)

So, when ya getting it, when's it going in????


----------



## Jason (Jul 25, 2009)

DJgang said:


> My VC has a catalyst shut off. (simple move of the leaver) It's on most of the time except when loading firewood and wanting an instant heat up of the immediate area. Having it on cut wood burning down in half.
> 
> Do you have to physically remove the catalyst on that model to turn off? If so, that's not good.
> 
> ...


I just followed your link to this stove and I'm really impressed. Looks like a very capable unit and it's really pretty, too.


----------



## fondini (Mar 18, 2012)

Jason said:


> I'm a big fan of putdoor wood furnaces. I've used a Hardy H5 since 2007 and love it. It taps into my existing baseboard heat but can also be tapped into a forced air system. Culex, I know this isn't what you were asking about but it's another option, especially if you already have some kind of heating in your home, as opposed to building a new home. Keeps all the wood mess outside, but they do go through a bunch of wood.


Try the central boiler unit,uses less wood.


----------



## Jason (Jul 25, 2009)

I've heard that, Fondini. Plus, on at least some models CB uses some kind of system to "reburn" the smoke to cut way back on the emissions. I do have to say that my Hardy is reliable, no frills, and I'm real happy with it. I'm burning decent wood this year, not old half rotted stuff or pine, and it makes a big difference in the amount of wood I'm using.


----------



## DJgang (Apr 10, 2011)

Just a FYI, my Vermont Castings, when we have it rolling and "shut it down" so to speak, there is no smoke coming out, all I can see is a heat fume or something, it's really doing am good job reburying or whatever it does.


----------



## Jason (Jul 25, 2009)

I know this is an old thread now but I wanted to post a pic of my furnace at full smoke output to show what these things do. I topped off the water this morning, making the blower kick on and kindle the fire in the firebox, which I'd just filled with damp wood. This is about as smoky as it gets, but during a temperature inversion all the smoke hugs the ground, making it pretty smoky. If a preson had neighbors, I can see this causing problems.


----------



## DJgang (Apr 10, 2011)

When we get the VC rolling again, I'll take a picture, y'all are going to be surprised.....


----------



## CulexPipiens (Nov 17, 2010)

Please do! We haven't made our purchase yet but are strongly leaning towards the VC.


----------



## Herklord (Jan 22, 2013)

Love my pacific energy summit


----------



## jnrdesertrats (Jul 3, 2010)

*I used the search button*

Hey all I know this is an old thread but it was relevant to my current situation.

One of the items we are considering for our new construction is radiant heat and a wood burning furnace. My neighbor has a central boiler 3250 http://centralboiler.com/products/e-classic/
He likes it but the other reviews seem hit and miss. I have seen other Amish made versions without the fancy wifi apps and such like these http://www.outdoor-wood-furnace-boiler.com/

Also I saw Jason has a Hardy and is still active here.

Do any of you have any current inputs on the subject. Thanks


----------



## Caribou (Aug 18, 2012)

jnrdesertrats said:


> Do any of you have any current inputs on the subject. Thanks


This is what I put in for my folks and I'd like one for myself. I like the secondary combustion chamber for added efficiency.

http://www.qhtinc.com/biasi-products/solid-fuel-boilers/3-wood/


----------



## ZoomZoom (Dec 18, 2009)

jnrdesertrats said:


> Do any of you have any current inputs on the subject. Thanks


My main input is make sure you have a lot of wood.

I know people that have these and really like them but they eat a lot of wood.

I heat with wood use relatively small air-tight wood stoves inside the house. One stove takes care of my needs down to 10°. I fire up the 2nd when it goes below that. Unless we're away for several days, the first one comes on in October and doesn't go out until March or so of the next year. I burn 3-5 full (4x4x8') cord per season.

The people I know that have one of those outdoor burners burn approx. 3 times as much wood for the same season, heating the same size house using the same mixed hardwoods.

I don't know what all kinds of wood you have in Oregon but if you're burning some sort of evergreen as opposed to deciduous, the outdoor burner is probably much better but you'll burn even more wood since it doesn't have the same BTU's as deciduous.


----------



## Caribou (Aug 18, 2012)

All wood gives up about the same number of BTU's per pound. The denser the wood the more BTU's per cord. 

The trick on wood is to get it dry. Dry wood burns more completely and thus leaves less creosote in the chimney. 

A BTU (British Thermal Unit) is the amount of energy that it takes to raise one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit. It takes 960 BTU's to change the state of water. In other words, if you bring a frozen log in from outside and burn it you will waste over 2,000 BTU's getting each pound of water form the wood to the top of the chimney.

The water vapor also cools the gasses and displaces oxygen. This reduces the quality of the combustion meaning unburned gasses up the chimney and increased creosote buildup. 

I recommend you keep three years worth of wood chopped and stored in a dry ventilated spot.


----------



## Meerkat (May 31, 2011)

We had a pot bellied stove that worked fine about 55 yr.s ago when I was a kid. 

Didn't take much wood it had 2 burners on it. 

I bet a welder could make a nice one of those. Not too big so not much wood. Cook corn cakes ' or pones according to where you live' pan break and coffee.


----------



## phideaux (Nov 7, 2015)

I heat with wood, been doing it for many years,
burn 3-4 cords a year to heat my 1900 sq ft home.

I have a freestanding , 3.6 cubic ft firebox, Englander Steel stove, (always on low).

and, it don't need electric power to heat my house.

My input ...get a large firebox, 
It will keep heat (logs) all night and I have filled mine and left it for 3 days and come home to it still heating.

Large fire box., that's the key.


Jim


----------



## jnrdesertrats (Jul 3, 2010)

So I am still vising the library for internet but I am working on a solution, hence the slow response. 

The reason I was looking into outdoor furnaces is that the mess and bugs stay outside. Also I understand if you size it right you can heat 2 homes and or a shop all on the same wood. Which is what I what I want to do and the idea of heating our cement slab as the heat source appeals to us. Yes they use quite a bit of wood. The neighbor says about 6 cords a year. He uses about a wheel barrow full and fills it once a day in the morning.

I do have a seemingly unlimited supply of wood and am considering putting in a conventional wood stove as a back up for grid down situations.


----------



## jnrdesertrats (Jul 3, 2010)

Caribou said:


> This is what I put in for my folks and I'd like one for myself. I like the secondary combustion chamber for added efficiency.
> 
> http://www.qhtinc.com/biasi-products/solid-fuel-boilers/3-wood/


I just check their website is seems like they are only east coast. I am not sure if installing it myself would void any warranties. Thanks for the input though.


----------



## Viking (Mar 16, 2009)

ZoomZoom said:


> My main input is make sure you have a lot of wood.
> 
> I know people that have these and really like them but they eat a lot of wood.
> 
> ...


Here in Oregon, if we are fortunate to get a hold of madrone, as far as I'm concerned, it's one of the best burning deciduous woods we can get. When it's fully seasoned it burns very clean with very little ash and in a good tight stove, fully dampened, burns very long. We use douglas fir, but I find that I have to really get the stove," tuned in to it", to burn it without creating a lot of creosote, I have found that seasoned incense cedar burns pretty good, it just doesn't have the BTU's that madrone has and generally doesn't bank down for overnight heating. We also have a lot of different type of oak we can use, deciduous and live oak, we use it if we have it well seasoned and even then it seems to leave a tremendous amount of ash, sometimes needing a daily ash clean out.


----------



## Tirediron (Jul 12, 2010)

An outdoor "water" heater doesn't need to be smokey, in fact if it is it is very inefficient at heat conversion, a hot fire with just enough excess air to be clean burning is most efficient, a fairly large insulated tank to hold the tempering water make these systems much more efficient, but you need to get over the furnace (feed it and forget it ) concept. Also if you use elevation to your advantage water/ glycol will thermo syphon, but the manufacturers want to sell a package not efficiency.


----------

