# Portable small diameter deep well pump build



## WSSps

Hello,

The last few months I have been gathering items to build a portable deep well pump that runs on 110vac. I found a pump that will lift as deep as 208' in a 4" diameter. At that depth, the flow is not so good but our wells in our area range from 135'-190'. We also have a lot of capped 6" bores ready to use with no pipe or pumps in them. The old days the pumps were not submersible but had a motor on top and spun the pump at the bottom. Those wells are generally capped now and newer sub pumps put in next to or a short distance from the oldies. 

My idea is to put the entire unit on a dolly like apparatus that can lean forward and become a tripod over the bore hole.

A large-ish spool to hold the 1"pex, 3/8" rope and 12/3 cord. The spool will have some sort of clamp break to help prevent a free fall into the bore. I'll mark the pex every ten feet to gauge depth and when water is hit, drop another 10' for cavitation and then hookup to the power and pex.

It will run on 110vac, so I can run on propane, gasoline, natural gas and wind/solar from my solar/wind generator. I opted for 110vac as it can use smaller wire than 12vdc and is more readily available than 220vac, which had many more options, but I ran with 110vac to balance. The pump (according to tables) will supply 17.5 gallons per minute at 150', our typical depth a mile around us.

The pex seemed the most logical as flat hose can have a lot of resistance and I think the pex will be a little more abrasion resistant than vinyl or flat hose. So, three lines down hole. 1) rope to support weight 2) 12/3 power cord and 3) 1" pex to provide flow.

We had a "test" last year when our well went down during ThankGiving and we had nine people staying in our house!!

We had two 275gl IBC tanks on stand by and a irrigation booster pump that I ran backward through a outside spigot to pressure up the house. I did not ask anyone to be "careful" with water use, I mean hey, It's Thanksgiving right? All invited to participate in my prepper excersise? Nah, I let em use it up. Amazing how much water folks use! Both tanks were empty by Monday when the pump guy showed up, fortunately, family was gone too. Did that sound rude LOL

So, any ideas guys?

Thanks! I'll post pics as I get the project laid out.

WSS


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## cowboyhermit

Sounds like a project, my experience with pex is rather limited, it is decently flexible I suppose. We typically use plain "poly" hose down our wells, it remains fairly flexible in extreme cold which we have in spades. I have used a lot of 110V pumps, I prefer the ones without any control box personally. As out wells are typically 100ft or less they can be pulled without any real equipment, but not without a little effort.

ETA; areas do vary greatly but wells with pumps on the surface and a rod down the well typically didn't "spin" anything, they used a pumpjack to provide a horizontal motion (think tiny oil derrick) or a hand-pump. We still have a couple of these that we use at times and they are actually extremely efficient. Many lower producing wells were abandoned though, because gasoline engines (especially newer ones) didn't make a lot of sense at such low speeds. Coupled with a 110V or 12V DC motor and gearbox or pulleys they are one of the most efficient means of moving water still.


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## Starcreek

I am interested in seeing how this works out, as I would have a use for one of these, if they work!


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## WSSps

cowboyhermit said:


> Sounds like a project, my experience with pex is rather limited, it is decently flexible I suppose. We typically use plain "poly" hose down our wells, it remains fairly flexible in extreme cold which we have in spades. I have used a lot of 110V pumps, I prefer the ones without any control box personally. As out wells are typically 100ft or less they can be pulled without any real equipment, but not without a little effort.
> 
> ETA; areas do vary greatly but wells with pumps on the surface and a rod down the well typically didn't "spin" anything, they used a pumpjack to provide a horizontal motion (think tiny oil derrick) or a hand-pump. We still have a couple of these that we use at times and they are actually extremely efficient. Many lower producing wells were abandoned though, because gasoline engines (especially newer ones) didn't make a lot of sense at such low speeds. Coupled with a 110V or 12V DC motor and gearbox or pulleys they are one of the most efficient means of moving water still.


 Can you post an example of poly hose?

The one issue with pex is (as you mentioned) it is only somewhat flexible, the smallest circle I could make would be about 20" diameter. this could cause a part of the pex to rub consistently enough in one spot on it's way down and back out again to rub a thin spot or hole. I hope to counter that by using the rope to attach the pex to in short distances, maybe every three feet to use the weight of the unit to pull it straight.

If poly has an advantage over pex, I'm listening. Thanks!!


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## terri9630

Wait a minute... you can put a pipe down the well and use a pump to suck the water up? Like a straw? What kind of pump/motor do you need for that? I think that would be a good back up for power outages due to storms and such. Our well is 400 ft, not sure of the actual water level but a well bucket isn't a short term emergency option. If this is possible then a small generator could be used to fill our emergency tanks.


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## azrancher

terri9630 said:


> Wait a minute... you can put a pipe down the well and use a pump to suck the water up? Like a straw?


Sucking water, really sucks because you are limited by atmospheric pressure of 14.7 psi, so without boring you with the math that's somewhere around 32 feet, and of course that is at sea level. Most well drillers will tell you that you can't suck water deeper than 25'. To go deeper you either need to put the pump and motor, which is a common "submersible pump" down into the water, or you can have the pump at ground level as long as you have a deep well jet down in the water, the third method is having the piston operated pump down in the water and use a rod to move up and down which is done with a windmill or pump jack like on oil wells to move the water up, and of course there is the Archimedes screw turned by a huge electric motor on top of the well head, commonly used for agricultural water, i.e. lots of water from a good water source.

*Rancher *


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## Tirediron

the best dual stage vacuum pump has trouble making -27 psi , which in theory is a 62 foot water column, but with all of the losses maybe 50 ft or so,
Cowboyhermit left a link to a 12 volt submersible but 400 is probably way out of it's range..
(Ranchers answer is more realistic about suction depths) 
As to the emergency pump, there are some pretty flexable hose options out there if you keep the head pressure reasonable


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## WSSps

True on the sucking. Pushing is easier. For my needs (portable) a flexible tube down the hole is my best option. If it was going to be a little more permanent, like 2 or 3 months, I might go the PVC route and glue the sticks and hang the pump with a flexible/strain relief type of coupling with a foot or so of heavy walled vinyl tube.

My goal is to supply my local group with water in a grid down situation (Natural disaster, SHTF, civil unrest, etc..). Ease of movement is a must.

It would be great if it looked like something other than a portable well pump. Maybe a lube cart or some automotive gizmo. It would make moving it around easier (like check points etc.)

Moving water could make us a target in the wrong situation. So scouting out capped bores and eventually using them is the plan. Transporting five and fifteen gallon water cans/tanks is probably the best idea. I have four on my property, there are at least fifty within a five mile circumference of me.


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## hiwall

Poly pipe is way cheaper than PEX and is what pretty much everyone uses. 
At 110 volts and having a 200 foot electric run, is 12 gauge wire heavy enough?


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## azrancher

hiwall said:


> Poly pipe is way cheaper than PEX and is what pretty much everyone uses.
> At 110 volts and having a 200 foot electric run, is 12 gauge wire heavy enough?


Poly is available at Lowes, and probably H.D. but I've never looked for it there.

The gauge is dependent on the HP of the pump, 1/2 hp might be OK but you should run the numbers on the resistance of 200' of 12 AWG.

*Rancher*


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## WSSps

It is a 1hp pump, draws 10.3 amps. Allowing for a 5% voltage drop, 10ga would be what is called for. That would cover 100% duty cycle. 10ga is doable, just more money and weight. 

I have not found anything cheaper than pex yet. A 200' piece pf 1" pex is $118 delivered to my door. 

I'm gonna look up poly tube. I assume it is tube and not pipe (npt)


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## Caribou

If you are buying Pex in a roll I expect it is Pex-A, that is good. I don't know what brand it is but it is probably marked with the footage every three feet starting with 000 at one end and going up to the length of the roll.

I would suggest that you drop the line to ten feet up from the bottom not ten feet from the top of the water. Bringing it up from the bottom reduces the amount of silt it brings up. If you place the pump just under the water then you only have your ten feet of water before you run dry. That may be fine if you have a fast refill but why push it. Your lift is figured from the static point of the well not from the level of the pump. To state it differently, you are lifting from the top of the water not the bottom of the pump.


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## cowboyhermit

WSSps said:


> Can you post an example of poly hose?
> 
> The one issue with pex is (as you mentioned) it is only somewhat flexible, the smallest circle I could make would be about 20" diameter. this could cause a part of the pex to rub consistently enough in one spot on it's way down and back out again to rub a thin spot or hole. I hope to counter that by using the rope to attach the pex to in short distances, maybe every three feet to use the weight of the unit to pull it straight.
> 
> If poly has an advantage over pex, I'm listening. Thanks!!





WSSps said:


> It is a 1hp pump, draws 10.3 amps. Allowing for a 5% voltage drop, 10ga would be what is called for. That would cover 100% duty cycle. 10ga is doable, just more money and weight.
> 
> I have not found anything cheaper than pex yet. A 200' piece pf 1" pex is $118 delivered to my door.
> 
> I'm gonna look up poly tube. I assume it is tube and not pipe (npt)


Everyone covered it well already but;

"Poly pipe" (search that on Home Depot and it should come up) comes in a variety of grades, often indicated by a colour stripe these days. Depending on the PSI rating, and the level of cert. it ranges something like $0.35-$1.00 CAD/ft, not a much less than pex these days.

A benefit is that it takes to hose clams and barb fittings well (easily disassemble-able), "lays" relatively flat IME especially with a bit of weight (loses it's coiled shape), and might be a bit softer and less fragile.

A disadvantage is it is typically only rated for cold water especially potable, it can handle heat well enough and works well in solar collectors, but it is de-rated. Doesn't really apply in a well water situation.

Honestly though, pex might be just as well, just isn't what we have used. Poly does stretch a bit on longer drops when holding it's own weight along with the pump, not sure how pex performs. There is also a fairly strong twisting motion when the pump kicks in to be aware of. Typically we just tape the wires to the hose and pull the pump by the hose, using the wires as a theoretical back-up in case of a failed fitting. A LOT of well servicers actually recommend against a safety rope, and I will attest that if that rope fails or falls into the well it can be an absolute nightmare to fix. The rope can coil up and jam the pump entirely. So, there isn't actually a "right" way, things can always go wrong but that shouldn't discourage anyone.


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## LincTex

I should make note that "well pump" and "small generator" used in the same sentence ...... also usually includes the word "failure" or the phrase "didn't work like I expected it to".

I'd also be leery of the head ratings on may pumps - - If I have a submersible pump that barely puts out .25 gallons a minute at 140 foot depth (ZERO psi, just a trickle) - I can still legally advertise that the pump will pump 140 feet.

Now, if I am thirsty and dirty and the only water available is barely a trickle, then it's far better than nothing! ....But It wasn't what I was expecting when I made that purchase.

A GOOD submersible pump will not only pump from the water up 140 feet to the surface, but it will pressurize a water tank to a full 50 psi. These are also NOT EASY to run off of a small generator. 
Maybe once they are running you can switch to a smaller generator, but to get one spooled up often takes a much larger generator than usually expected.


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## WSSps

LincTex said:


> I should make note that "well pump" and "small generator" used in the same sentence ...... also usually includes the word "failure" or the phrase "didn't work like I expected it to".
> 
> I'd also be leery of the head ratings on may pumps - - If I have a submersible pump that barely puts out .25 gallons a minute at 140 foot depth (ZERO psi, just a trickle) - I can still legally advertise that the pump will pump 140 feet.
> 
> Now, if I am thirsty and dirty and the only water available is barely a trickle, then it's far better than nothing! ....But It wasn't what I was expecting when I made that purchase.
> 
> A GOOD submersible pump will not only pump from the water up 140 feet to the surface, but it will pressurize a water tank to a full 50 psi. These are also NOT EASY to run off of a small generator.
> Maybe once they are running you can switch to a smaller generator, but to get one spooled up often takes a much larger generator than usually expected.


Ranchers and dairymen run "well pumps" off of "small generators" in my area about 50% of the time with 99% success. The one percent that fails usually is tied to a specific person who is green or a kid of a rancher/dairyman who doesn't care anyway.

For our application, it is 0psi, just free flow (+a bar every 33ft) to an open tank. Pressure is built by a irrigation booster pump later when tank is moved into place. or possibly just used for drinking water and never pressurized. The IBC tote/tanks I'm using will not take much more than than a few psi, they do however have large exit and fill ports so flow is not a problem.

The particular pump I bought has the controller built in so no external controller is needed, straight to 110vac. The pump will lift a max of 208', which at that static depth is .5gpm, luckily our wells in this area are usually under that. The preferred bore on my property is 148' static today. Our basin water master just measured it. That will give me about 18gpm. Much better than a garden hose.

Another item that I have already put to use is a portable "quad filter". It has a carbon element, sediment element, UV-C sterilizer and a pre-carbon filter. It flows about 10gpm, so it probably will not be tied onto this sytem but will be made available to our guys who will drink this water. Our water quality sucks! We have ranches not far from us who have to have water brought in due to chemicals present in the water. Ours is tested weekly for problems, luckily, ours has not been red tagged yet.

I opted for this type of filter over the reverse osmosis type for the reason RO has to be pressurized to work correctly.

Also looked up poly tube!! Of course, How did I miss that. We call it irrigation tube in So. Cal. Even though it is plastered with the words POLY TUBING. LOL The price is not much different, in fact pex still wins out cost wise. Poly may have an advantage over min coil size, I would like to be as compact as possible.


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## terri9630

By small generator I was referring to something smaller than the whole house general we were looking at. The only real need we have during the power outages is the well.


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## WSSps

terri9630 said:


> By small generator I was referring to something smaller than the whole house general we were looking at. The only real need we have during the power outages is the well.


As long as it can put out the needed amps, it should be fine. A 3k gen will put out 25amps (at 120vac, the receptacle is probably rated for 15amps), while that is max output, the pump we are using only draws 10.3amps, enough of a margin I would say.


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## WSSps

Caribou said:


> If you are buying Pex in a roll I expect it is Pex-A, that is good. I don't know what brand it is but it is probably marked with the footage every three feet starting with 000 at one end and going up to the length of the roll.
> 
> I would suggest that you drop the line to ten feet up from the bottom not ten feet from the top of the water. Bringing it up from the bottom reduces the amount of silt it brings up. If you place the pump just under the water then you only have your ten feet of water before you run dry. That may be fine if you have a fast refill but why push it. Your lift is figured from the static point of the well not from the level of the pump. To state it differently, you are lifting from the top of the water not the bottom of the pump.


Thanks for that info! The most recent failure of our main pump was silt. We are in a pretty good drought here in So Cal and it looks like part of the aquifer sides collapsed and put a bunch of nasty stuff in the water. I know of four wells close by that had the same problem during the same month. Our well is 300' and the pump sits at 185' with static being 148' today (we've seen 165' recently).

If i sit the pump to 190', you think thats good? All my lengths are in 200'.


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## azrancher

Just a couple of things, I have used both a 5KW and an 8KW generator to run a 1/3 hp submersible (you can no longer buy a 1/3 hp pump), what you need in a generator is one that can handle the start up current of a submersible pump, normally 2X or up to 3X the running current. I don't think a Honda EU2000, or EU3000 won't handle it.

Diameters on PEX and Poly I believe are different, you buy a 1" poly roll of pipe rated at 150psi or higher to 200psi to hang a submersible pump on, and the inside diameter of the poly will be 1". If you buy 1" PEX I believe they are quoting the outside diameter of the PEX so the inside diameter is 3/4".

*Rancher*


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## terri9630

azrancher said:


> Just a couple of things, I have used both a 5KW and an 8KW generator to run a 1/3 hp submersible (you can no longer buy a 1/3 hp pump), what you need in a generator is one that can handle the start up current of a submersible pump, normally 2X or up to 3X the running current. I don't think a Honda EU2000, or EU3000 won't handle it.
> 
> Diameters on PEX and Poly I believe are different, you buy a 1" poly roll of pipe rated at 150psi or higher to 200psi to hang a submersible pump on, and the inside diameter of the poly will be 1". If you buy 1" PEX I believe they are quoting the outside diameter of the PEX so the inside diameter is 3/4".
> 
> *Rancher*


We currently have 3 generators. One is in my horse trailer 3500 with 4500 peak, one on the camper 3500 with 4800 peak and the newest one is a 5500 with 6800 peak with gas, less on propane.


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## WSSps

azrancher said:


> Just a couple of things, I have used both a 5KW and an 8KW generator to run a 1/3 hp submersible (you can no longer buy a 1/3 hp pump), what you need in a generator is one that can handle the start up current of a submersible pump, normally 2X or up to 3X the running current. I don't think a Honda EU2000, or EU3000 won't handle it.
> 
> Diameters on PEX and Poly I believe are different, you buy a 1" poly roll of pipe rated at 150psi or higher to 200psi to hang a submersible pump on, and the inside diameter of the poly will be 1". If you buy 1" PEX I believe they are quoting the outside diameter of the PEX so the inside diameter is 3/4".
> 
> *Rancher*


Yep, another point, the locked rotor amps. I have two problems to deal with here.. That twisting that was mentioned earlier and LRA. I think the LRA and twist can be lessened by two things, first, deleting the check valve so the start is as light as possible, this means a few seconds of run with no water flowing but pump is still submerged, second is the stability/rigidity of pex vs. poly. holding it straighter.

here is a link that reviews the exact pump I bought:






post says it's a 1k watt, but at 10.3amps it's 1236watt. The LRA is not stated, maybe that is max/LRA and 1k is running, seems low, but motors are more efficient now, it has a on board capacitor, that helps start loads as well.


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## Caribou

WSSps said:


> Our well is 300' and the pump sits at 185' with static being 148' today (we've seen 165' recently).
> 
> If i sit the pump to 190', you think thats good? All my lengths are in 200'.


If you have a static of 165' and you put your pump down to 190' then you have 25' of water which is way better than 10'. If you have a dropping water table you might want to consider that with a well depth of 300' something that could pump 280' or 290' might be an option.

My well is 149' and when last measured the static depth is 109'. If they placed the pump ten feet from the bottom then I have 30' of water column. I have never run out but I am not trying to irrigate. If your pump functions fine at 185' today then a similar depth should continue to work until the water table drops significantly.

That video brought something to mind. Pex deteriorates in the sun. It should be fine in a well but the video showed plastic pipe sitting in the sun. That is not a workable plan with Pex. Under the ground, in a wall, in a closet, in a well light room but no direct sun.


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## WSSps

Ok, pex was a no go. Too many cons. One was as (Caribou mentioned) not UV resistant. Second, was (as azrancher mentioned) the ID size, 1" pex is about .75" and 1" poly irrigation tube is about .875". Not much but it will slow flow with a smaller diameter. So, I bought the shortest roll I could find locally which was 500' for $139+tx also bought some specific connectors to adapt to 1" npt.



















Spent some time on autocad today drawing the reel for the cords, rope and tube to fit on. The reel will be bigger than I expected, the smallest circle I can make without a kink is 20" and to put 200 feet of these three items, the reel will be 32" wide oal and 8" wide. So the plan will shift a little to a sideway mount with a disc brake added, just a little pressure applied to a pair of metal shoes squeezing a small 8" rotor welded to back of reel. My paln at the moment is to make the axle out of 1.5 x 1" dom and use bronze bushings on the dom hub for spinning. I imagine it should be enough as rpm is slow. A ball or radial bearing would spin too fast.

Please, Your guys ideas so far have helped shape the project, keep the ideas coming.


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## terri9630

Just curious, why does UV resistance matter if it's underground?


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## WSSps

terri9630 said:


> Just curious, why does UV resistance matter if it's underground?


It is portable and will likely spend 99% of it's life on a reel and possibly outside. We have the room to store it but if it does have to be "on the move", I would like as many bases covered as possible.

My idea is to have this as a backup for our current location but also be able to move from bore to bore in a grid down situation. I will make a spot for it on my solar/wind generator trailer. Makes getting water self contained. I would rather get water from a unknown underground aquifer than a flowing creek or pond, at least locally.

In a earthquake situation, bores may be too damaged to use. Most bores in this valley are 6 or 8 inches. This little pump is 4" dia and fairly short. This should give it a good chance of getting down a damaged casing.


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## azrancher

WSSps said:


> Second, was (as azrancher mentioned) the ID size, 1" pex is about .75" and 1" poly irrigation tube is about .875". Not much but it will slow flow with a smaller diameter. So, I bought the shortest roll I could find locally which was 500' for $139+tx also bought some specific connectors to adapt to 1" npt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please, Your guys ideas so far have helped shape the project, keep the ideas coming.


OK, what you bought there is irrigation tubing... Here are the specs on it:

12001030 LP1200 500ft 1" PE Tubing 1.060 (ID) 1.200 (OD) 0.070 (Wall thickness) 51.0 lb (per roll) 51 psi (Max operating pressure).

I've never seen irrigation _"DRIP"_ tubing used to hang a heavy submersible pump on... it will stretch and collapse, and a max of 51psi isn't going to hack it.

This is what you really needed: https://www.lowes.com/pd/ADS-1-in-x-300-ft-200-PSI-Plastic-Coil-Pipe/3574014










Or from a well pump and tank supplier:

http://www.deanbennettsupply.com/pipe.html










When I bought from Dean Bennett Supply the drop pipe was black.

*Rancher*


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## LincTex

The thick-walled (200 psi" tubing is by far the best choice. 

You "might" be able to get away with the "160 psi" tubing, but it's a fair bit thinner - - ESPECIALLY once you add the weight of 140' of water in it! (another 30 lbs?) where it meets the reel at the top when running.

"Drip tubing" is actually designed to have the fittings puncture right through the sidewall.....


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## WSSps

There will be no weight on the tube. The weight will be on the 3/8" poly rope attached to a ss cable on the end of the pump. The pump has two eyes/ears with holes to evenly hang the pump. cable will be shaped like a basket hoop and the rope probably D-ring attached to that. I do realize this was cheap. too cheap. It does feel structurally sound though. 

It should have no psi other than the water column itself.

Still think I should change it??

Thanks for the time you took to research it and post it here!

WSS

EDIT: I bought this from Ewing, the guy told me not to look in the drip section and he knew what I needed, it was in a different section with another type of poly tube, all 1/2" and up. The drip stuff felt spongy and thin, this is a little more rigid. It may be drip tube he sold me, I hope not.


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## WSSps

Managed to get the reel parts cut after Church today!

On the table:









For size reference, I did not realize it would need to be this large, had to re think some stuff. It will still be portable but bigger than expected:









Here are the spreader bars, the ends are stepped and tabbed to fit neatly in the reel side plates, no jig needed:









tabs close up:



























snapped together:


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## WSSps

Here is the shaft and disc brake parts dummied in place:


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## Tirediron

that is some nice work, I would consider making the brake disc larger diameter, to lower the clamping pressure required to give a smooth controlled drop.


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## Caribou

The poly rope will stretch. Cable will stretch but not anywhere as much as rope. When the rope stretches it cause the pipe to take some of the weight. Lift your roll of tubing, add in the weight of the pump, fittings, wire, and about 8 1/2# per gallon of water. Factor in the torque of the motor every time the pump starts up. If the pipe breaks near the pump and the pump is hanging slightly sideways, how much of a problem will it be to get it out of a damaged or narrow well?

You are building a first class rig and I am really impressed with the quality of your work. Is it really worth it to you to use a marginal pipe? You have been advised by people that know way more than I do to get the 200 PSI pipe. They even suggested the 160 PSI pipe but they seemed uncomfortable with that recommendation.


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## WSSps

Caribou said:


> The poly rope will stretch. Cable will stretch but not anywhere as much as rope. When the rope stretches it cause the pipe to take some of the weight. Lift your roll of tubing, add in the weight of the pump, fittings, wire, and about 8 1/2# per gallon of water. Factor in the torque of the motor every time the pump starts up. If the pipe breaks near the pump and the pump is hanging slightly sideways, how much of a problem will it be to get it out of a damaged or narrow well?
> 
> You are building a first class rig and I am really impressed with the quality of your work. Is it really worth it to you to use a marginal pipe? You have been advised by people that know way more than I do to get the 200 PSI pipe. They even suggested the 160 PSI pipe but they seemed uncomfortable with that recommendation.


I'm on the fence with the tube still. I have to go poly due to ID, the pex is just to restrictive. To be 100% honest, I jumped the gun on the tube and spent all my project fund so far. It was supposed to come in under $600 and I'm a little over now. I may have to wait a week to to recoup a little and go for the higher rated poly tube.

This is exactly why I am posting the project, to get feedback. Plus, it may help someone else spring an idea. It makes the gears turn. If it wasn't for money LOL!!

I found some 10/3 yellow cord!!


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## WSSps

Project update:

Got the reel welded up, it's fairly true and turns good. The hub is a 2" x .120" tube. I have a pair of 2x1.5 bronze bushings that I will turn down to fit in the tube and leave a little flange so it does not wander into the tube. It will turn on a piece of 1.5"x.25" DOM tube, this will be the axle. I decide to build the "dolly" instead of adding it to a ready made dolly. This will turn into a tripod kinda unit that will tilt over the well bore and feed truer down the hole. I will use a bar to twist the rope onto at the very end of the run down the well to keep the rope tight and the tube and cord slack. That should eliminate all the weight issues on the tube and cord, even the tripod unit itself will be slack once the rope is taught on top of the bore opening.


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## hiwall

WSSps, you are sure putting a lot of time, effort, and thought into this project!


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## WSSps

OK, I've got some more done! Been super busy the last few months. Found a few days straight that I was able to concentrate on the project.

I utilized my new tube bender in the project. Decided to use 1.25x.090" round tube to house the reel. I also felt uneasy about a single sided hub mount and changed it up to a double side/shear supported axle.

Also used a gokart disc brake caliper to control the reel speed. I hope to get it completely assembled next week and test it.

Just a tacked together trial fit, see brake handle in front, slight pressure brings the reel to a halt!!:









Close up of gokart brake:









some hose wrap arms for the output short hose, which will attach once once pump is at depth via camlocks:









Here is the truck/dolly right after paint:









Painted reel:









side view of brake caliper float bracket:


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