# Filtering Water From Old Well



## HiddenAgenda69 (May 21, 2012)

I'm looking for suggestions on filtering well water. I know boiling gets rid if the creepy-crawlers but how does one effectively get rid of the sulfur and mineral taste/smell? Is it even safe to consider for drinking? I ask because I have an old well rigged with a hand pump that always produces good cold water but it smells awful and has lots of mineral sediment. I'm considering a sand filter... I want to keep it simple and unplugged. Any suggestions are most welcome.


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## BillM (Dec 29, 2010)

*Well, a deep subject*



HiddenAgenda69 said:


> I'm looking for suggestions on filtering well water. I know boiling gets rid if the creepy-crawlers but how does one effectively get rid of the sulfur and mineral taste/smell? Is it even safe to consider for drinking? I ask because I have an old well rigged with a hand pump that always produces good cold water but it smells awful and has lots of mineral sediment. I'm considering a sand filter... I want to keep it simple and unplugged. Any suggestions are most welcome.


You kind of need to know what is making the water smell.

If it is sulfer it may be ok to drink. If it is sewage you probably will want to filter and disenfect the water.

Your county extention agent or agricultural department in your county will test for fecal cloriform to determin if it if organic waste in the water.

You may have to send a sample to your local university to test for minerals or heavy metals.

Charcoal filters will remove most every thing else, including sulfer.


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## Jimmy24 (Apr 20, 2011)

HiddenAgenda69 said:


> I'm looking for suggestions on filtering well water. I know boiling gets rid if the creepy-crawlers but how does one effectively get rid of the sulfur and mineral taste/smell? Is it even safe to consider for drinking? I ask because I have an old well rigged with a hand pump that always produces good cold water but it smells awful and has lots of mineral sediment. I'm considering a sand filter... I want to keep it simple and unplugged. Any suggestions are most welcome.


I would have it tested before using. A lot of older shallow wells have been ruined by old septic tanks, sulfur tastes, sediment. You may only be able to use for garden water/livestock.

Jimmy


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## Davarm (Oct 22, 2011)

If the smell is in fact from sulfur and not other contamination, aeration will generally work to rid it of the sulfur smell. The other minerals(minus calcium), a commercial carbon filter may help or someimes, if it is not too bad, a home made activated carbon filter may work.


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## HiddenAgenda69 (May 21, 2012)

Thank you for the suggestions! I'll have a sample tested to see exactly what I'm dealing with. I never really considered sewage or other contaminates because it's in a rural area... But I guess that doesn't necessarily rule out what flows downstream. I like the carbon filter idea and will definitely start looking into those. 

I'm hoping something can be done to make this water potable because it's a very reliable source in case of emergency/SHTF. But in its "straight from the tap" form I'm very hesitant to give it to my family. I currently just use it in my tank sprayer and have seen the deposits in the filter after a few tanks. That alone is enough to raise an eyebrow about what it might do to people plumbing.


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## TheLazyL (Jun 5, 2012)

BillM said:


> ...Your county extention agent or agricultural department in your county will test for fecal cloriform to determin if it if organic waste in the water...


If you take a sample to a government agency and the test results isn't to their liking, they will require you to either bring the well up to code or abandon it.

Do a web search for a private lab and mail your sample there.


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## HiddenAgenda69 (May 21, 2012)

Well that would just suck... I certainly don't want it to get that complicated. 

That's a very good point to consider. Good call.


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## jnrdesertrats (Jul 3, 2010)

You could tell them this is water source where you camp or hike with no specific address


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## HiddenAgenda69 (May 21, 2012)

It's an interesting dilemma... But after much thought I'm leaning towards an "honesty is the best policy" approach, but also not showing all my cards if it's not absolutely necessary. I don't want a bunch of folks meddling around with the property, but if the water were to be seriously tainted I'd want to do whatever possible to deal with it properly. There are other folks living in the area who could also potentially be affected... That being said the may have been using this same water table already without much ill-effect (no three-eyed kids running around... Yet) but they also may not realize a threat could exist... Or really even care. 

It's a bit startling how a simple question about filtering water now stands as a potentially much larger issue to deal with. Egads!


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## Well_Driller (Jun 3, 2012)

Is it a drilled well, or a dug well? If the well never gets pumped much the smell could be because the water sits there all the time and some bacteria growth causes this. I have worked on old wells that haven't been pumped for years that end up like that. A good cleaning and heavy chlorination (shock treatment) and it usually takes care of the problem. You need to first pump the well for a while, but you'll have to use an electric pump as the hand pump can't pump at the rate you need to pump the well. If the smell goes away while doing this then it most likely is bacteria growth. Shock treatment afterwards should take care of it, then have it tested. In some wells the water moves, others it will just sit there in the hole. If a hand pump is the only pump on the well then once it's cleaned up you need to use it on a regular basis to keep that from coming back. I have a well that has only a hand pump on it and I use it on a daily basis to keep it clean as it's good drinking water.


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## HiddenAgenda69 (May 21, 2012)

Great input... Thank you! The well has a cement base around it and bore the remnants of an old windmill when I got the property. I enlisted a local expert to rip all the junk out and assemble the hand pump that's presently being used.

I think your theory has some serious merit... I haven't been using it on a daily... Or even weekly as of-late. It's always reliable tho and delivers with just a couple of cranks on the pump handle. But based on your theory I'm sure that there's some growth occurring down there. I'm now wondering if the shock treatment/pump out, along with the carbon filter might do the trick. I'm still going to get it tested, but I like this idea.


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## Well_Driller (Jun 3, 2012)

Sounds like the well had not been used for a long time before you put the hand pump in. Any well that has set for a long time should be pumped for a few hours do a shock treatment let set for 24 hours then pump it again for a few hours. If you never done a shock treatment on the well to start with I wouldn't be surprised if the water test came back positive for total coliform. Anytime you install a new pump in a well it can introduce bacteria into the water. That is bacteria from pipe laying on the ground from your hands etc. A shock treatment should always be done after any pump work is done that involves disturbing/handling pipe that goes into the well. If there is some growth that has started down there you might have to do it a couple times to clean it up. Unless your area is known to have sulfur in the water (local drillers can tell you this) i'd bet it's the result of the well sitting dormant for so long. The best thing to do would be to find a driller that can come in and bail the well with a bailer. Bailers will surge the well and helps to break up any buildup in the well bore, but cheapest thing is to just pump it, do shock treatment, then pump it again. I've seen this a lot with old wells that were abandoned then brought back into service. My well and hand pump were all new when I done mine, but I use it regularly to keep it in working order. What kind of hand pump did you put on the well?


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## HiddenAgenda69 (May 21, 2012)

I'll have to double check next time in out there but i think it may be an old Hayes. I honestly can't recall any markings on it but will definitely look it over.

I am very much appreciative of your advice here... I think you're right on track about how much/how little it's been used and how that has probably resulted in a "bloom" down there. I'm going to follow up with some testing and see about the shock treatments. We're already looking around for filters...

Thank you again for sharing your wisdom!


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## BlueShoe (Aug 7, 2010)

HiddenAgenda69 said:


> Thank you for the suggestions! I'll have a sample tested to see exactly what I'm dealing with. I never really considered sewage or other contaminates because it's in a rural area... But I guess that doesn't necessarily rule out what flows downstream.


In bad times look for an explosion of streams/run-off pollution. I've seen an outhouse from the '30s which I asked if I could use (to say I'd used one) and when I got out there I realized it was just perched over a moving stream.


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## Well_Driller (Jun 3, 2012)

HiddenAgenda69 said:


> I'll have to double check next time in out there but i think it may be an old Hayes. I honestly can't recall any markings on it but will definitely look it over.
> 
> I am very much appreciative of your advice here... I think you're right on track about how much/how little it's been used and how that has probably resulted in a "bloom" down there. I'm going to follow up with some testing and see about the shock treatments. We're already looking around for filters...
> 
> Thank you again for sharing your wisdom!


Keep in mind most basic bacteria tests only tests for total coliform and e. coli. The well could test negative for both but the smell can be caused by other bacteria growth. Also testing for fecal coliform will tell you whether or not sewage is getting into the well. Sometimes when we keep getting a positive for total coliform we then test for fecal coliform and that is usually negative. Sometimes you can get false positives with total coliform test.


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## Highwater (Mar 22, 2011)

*WaterSafe Test kits*

You might want to try the WaterSafe well water test kit. Once you know the contaminants you are targeting, it's much easier to decide on the right filter for you.


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## HiddenAgenda69 (May 21, 2012)

That's very cool... Just ordered a kit! Thank you for the tip about these!


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## lotsoflead (Jul 25, 2010)

I would mix a couple gal of bleach in with 4 gal of water and dump it in the well and let it set for 24 hrs, pump a few gal out in a pail and dump it back in the well, that will disinfect your pump and mix the bleach around in the well, after 24 hrs, pump out a hundred gals in a barrel until you don't smell the bleach, then you can take a sample to get it tested., you could use the water in the toilets or just dump it away from the well.. we have to shock many wells every yr that haven't been used in a few yrs.


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## Well_Driller (Jun 3, 2012)

Also if the top of the hand pump doesn't have a sealed packing nut around the pump rod or the top of it is open you'll likely have a reoccurring issue with bacteria...


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## Salekdarling (Aug 15, 2010)

HiddenAgenda69 said:


> That's very cool... Just ordered a kit! Thank you for the tip about these!


Keep us posted. I'm curious as to what your water will test for, and what you plan on doing.


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## HiddenAgenda69 (May 21, 2012)

Absolutely! The kit arrived today (gotta love Amazon!) so if i can clear some space on my calendar I'll be doing a test over the coming weekend.

Stand by...


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## HiddenAgenda69 (May 21, 2012)

Quick update... Last weekend was taken up with family obligations so I didn't get much else accomplished. This recent weekend found me at the property, but I spent the whole time I was there dealing with a wasp invasion of biblical proportions, and then my Mule went down with a bum tire and I had to shoot her. Takes a lot of bullets to put down a Kawasaki...

Anywho... I still haven't had a chance to test the well but will try again this week when I go back to check on wasps and fix the mule. 

So... Anybody have a tip on keeping wasps out of the barn and outbuildings? LOL.


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## Raetsch1 (Nov 4, 2011)

I have two old, brick-lined water wells dug in July of 1921. They still have water in them and I've been considering getting it tested. I use AL Plains lab for most of my testing, but if the water is safe, then I may start using the wells. If not, I'll figure out how to make it safe. Thanks for jogging my memory.


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## wooly (Sep 25, 2012)

Don't get any where close to the govmint. Run a sample thru your BIG BERKEY & have that checked by a private firm who has no dog in your hunt


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## FreshWater (Sep 24, 2011)

Solution:

http://freshwater.ecogreenenergies.com


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## jduncan (Sep 23, 2012)

Easy! This PURIFICATION technology has been used by missionaries to third-world countries for years...http://www.stepbystepprepshop.com/collections/stepone_water/products/berkey-water-purification-system http://www.stepbystepprepshop.com/pages/berkey-faqs


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## cabinetman (Apr 14, 2012)

You do NOT need to worry about ANY of the problems listed above. All you need is $50 and to order the following filter:

http://www.amazon.com/Sawyer-PointO...3026902&sr=8-3&keywords=sawyer+water+purifier

Ladies and gentleman, this is the answer to so many water issues that it's on the virge of being a miracle. IT will make 540 gallons of fres water every day. It's eaily cleanable, it will filter out virtually everything except a virus. I would strongly and highly recommend that you read up on the Sawyer systems. It uses the same technology to filter water as dialysis patients use to filter their blood. IT's nothing short of extraordinary. A lot of mission programs are now sponsoring this filter to the residents of some of the most contaminated water supplies in the world just because it can produce such clean drinking water for so little money and there are NO MOVING PARTS. Amazing.

And, no, fyi, I'm not in an way affilated with this system or company but I am truely amazed that it is now on the market for so little bucks.

Rome


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## morningbird (Sep 15, 2012)

hello. we had well water with the same characteristics and needed a UV filter, how to make one is another question totally. This kills e-coli and chloroform or however the bugs are spelled. when we did this all went away with the addition of a course filter. Now as for boiling vs UV light, more research would be my suggestion. The sulphur though can be eradicated by leaving it in an open container overnight. it seems to dissipate. hope this helps you at least to find more info.


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## cabinetman (Apr 14, 2012)

All of what you have outlined is also handled by the Sawyer filter. No need for any boiling or other treatments.
I'd like to highly recommend you view this one example video:


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## Drumrunner (Sep 25, 2009)

*GAC*



HiddenAgenda69 said:


> I'm looking for suggestions on filtering well water. I know boiling gets rid if the creepy-crawlers but how does one effectively get rid of the sulfur and mineral taste/smell? Is it even safe to consider for drinking? I ask because I have an old well rigged with a hand pump that always produces good cold water but it smells awful and has lots of mineral sediment. I'm considering a sand filter... I want to keep it simple and unplugged. Any suggestions are most welcome.


Granular Activated Carbon - most pet stores sell it


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## MOPrepper (Jul 9, 2012)

We've got some unpleasant smelling water from our deep well, but our Big Berkey with black filters seems to clean it up nicely. Still, you should see what the tests say.


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## theberkeyguy (Jul 31, 2012)

We recommend getting a Berkey Water Purification System. Thousands of people who have wells, have purchased from us, and have been happy with the results.

theberkeyguy
www.goberkey.com


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## kd7mnr (Sep 22, 2010)

With the use of one of these products you can solve your problem

http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/CAMP-352


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## swilgus (Sep 24, 2009)

*honesty etc.*

first: verify before you "notify".

second: once the Gov't gets involved, they stay involveed and you are on the radar forever [NDAA remember???]

thirdly: as others said, there are many reasons, BENIGN reasons for stinky - but ONCE an Independent Lab confirms bad news, THEN take it to a higher level.

lastly, IF you must use a sacrificial filter, you will have to have great stores of such - invest the money in a real flash sterilizer - also remember that pastuerization will kill all the nasties. Look into alternative bio-filtration procedures. i have no idea whta kiving conditions are for you, so if on a farm yhen I suspect plenty of room for this.

Be safe!


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## HiddenAgenda69 (May 21, 2012)

Thanks to everyone for all if the great input! I'm looking at a charcoal filter now... My test kits haven't revealed anything too threatening. There were some trace amounts of crud that could be attributed to surrounding cattle ops but nothing at levels that would be considered toxic. Between shocking the well and filtering/boiling I think we may be ok. I'm still shopping around but all of the info here has been most appreciated.


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## Psalm91 (Oct 8, 2012)

I 100% agree with Well_Driller. You need to pump the well out with a trash pump or some other electric/gas pump to get all the stagnant water out of it, then shock the crap out of it with pure HTH, then let it stand for 2 hours, then pump it for a while again. It's most likely because it hasn't been used in so long that it became stagnant just sitting there. You may have to address your well cap as well. If insects and rain water are able to get down the well hole you will never keep it clean and pure.


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## HiddenAgenda69 (May 21, 2012)

I agree that those are good steps, but beyond the well cap consideration what... If anything... can be done to help minimize contamination from "upstream" sources? It's not used very often right now but would be given the right circumstances so shocking and pumping would be priorities for sure. But I can't prevent what others are doing around us to contribute fertilizers and cattle wastes or other crap (pun intended) into the water table. Am I looking at a revolving door process... And would long-term storage of this water after shock/filter be a good idea?


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## Well_Driller (Jun 3, 2012)

That all depends on the ground formations in your area. For example our casing usually goes down anywhere from 30' to 80' and there is a natural clay barrier that goes down at least that far. It is a very dense gray clay and surface water or anything else cannot penetrate it. This is what protects our groundwater. So if the casing was set deep enough and was sealed right when your well was drilled it shouldn't be an issue unless the ground formations above the aquifer are porous.


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## NaeKid (Oct 17, 2008)

Would you be able to build a "shed" or "gazebo" over the well area to keep things cleaner? What you might do is pour a concrete retaining wall (footing) about 6' away from the well's edge all around and place a pretty little gazebo over top - it will be able to significantly limit surface-water contamination from getting to the well (it will flow around, not down) and then you can continue to tap into the clean water-table below.

Another option that I have also seen is just a simple wooden barrier buried in the ground all around the head that rises about 6" above the surrounding ground - fill with sand (for drainage) and call it good.

Picture below of the simple barrier ...


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## Well_Driller (Jun 3, 2012)

Usually when we get an old well that has problems with surface water or recurring bacteria problems is to dig up the well head, dig down about 3 to 4 ft below the casing and below the pitless adapter if there is one, then put bentonite grout around the casing and fill it back in. Most of the time it fixes the problem and it is fairly easy and inexpensive to do. Other than that, if you're that serious about having a clean reliable water source and you don't trust that well is to have that well plugged and get a new one drilled. When we do get one that can't be fixed we plug the old well so it doesn't contaminate the aquifer and drill a new one, and we move away from where the old well was.


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