# propane generators



## infidel

Are propane generators cheaper to run than normal ones? I heard the phone company used those to keep the lines working during houston's power outages. Are they as easy to find as gas ones?


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## OldTXCop

After being thru Ike, I'm seriously thinking about a propane based back-up generator system for my home. The starting price for the equipment is around $4000. It will probably run another $1500-2000, for an electrician to make the necessary connections to your home. 

Once done though, when the power goes out, go outside throw a lever switch and the unit fires up and you have power. The system i priced, included a tank that if full would last about 30 days. Natural gas is cheaper than propane, but my area doesn't have gas lines, so my only option is propane.

Lowe's and Home Depot sell these systems. If you google "generac" you will find all sorts of info on these systems. I believe they were one of the first makers of these systems.


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## TechAdmin

If the power goes out would the natural gas lines stop working? Some neighborhoods don't have light poles and their front yards are lighted at night by natural gas so this could be very negative for them or positive since they would still have light if it still works...


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## JeepHammer

Having lived in the Fla. keys were 5 minor hurricanes a year isn't uncommon, but even a minor hurricane, or a hurricane strike up on the mainland will leave us dark for days and sometimes weeks (ANDREW!)...

And having grown up in, and now living in 'Tornado Alley' again,
I've learned a couple of things about generators...

1. You don't need to buy a 'Propane' or 'Natural Gas' specific generator. (also called a 'Genset')
Most of the popular larger brand generators, whether gasoline or diesel, have kits made for them you can add propane on top to make them 'Dual Fuel' units.

This is REAL handy when you don't know which tank is going to get blown/washed away...

2. If you can use the most BASIC common sense when working with propane or natural gas, it's VERY EASY to convert about any generator over yourself.

Remember, generators run at a constant speed, so if you get the mixture right for 'Full Pull', then it will just run a little rich when it's not 'generating', which you should shut it off anyway...
Fuel diffusers and engine shut off switches/valves are EASY to wire and use, so there really isn't any reason someone handy couldn't convert a gas or diesel engine generator for propane or CNG.

3. Buy more generator than you think you need.
Buy as much generator as you can afford, and then get the next biggest model...
There isn't any such thing as a home generator that is 'Too Big', but you can very easily buy one that is 'Too Small'.

4. Advertised Wattage is usually the MAXIMUM SURGE LOAD, and the generator will melt down if you try and run it at the wattage stated on the sticker on the side!

Example, my first 'Hurricane' generator was a 'Craftsman' brand.
Splashed down the side in big letters was "4,000 WATTS OF POWER".
Turns out, that was the peak 'Surge' rating, anything over 2,500 watts output and it would throw breakers and eventually melted the solder out of the terminal connections in the generator.

5. Mounting/Storage/Hookup location is everything!
The generator won't do you any good if it's been under water for 4 days, or the outlet where you connect it is under water!

6. Don't be afraid of a deal.
Very low hour generators can be had for cheap right now because of the hurricanes down south, and the flooding in the midwest.

Remember, every one of the larger boats had a good sized genset in it, and every one of the larger RV's that were ruined in the hurricane or floods had a good sized genset in it! 
The salvage places are full of good quality, brand name gensets with low hours on them right now for dirt cheap prices!

7. DO NOT BUY LAWN MOWER ENGINE GENERATORS!
They are 'High Speed' engines and they will drive you crazy listening to them in short order!

The larger ones like Onan and Cat will have low speed engines that don't drive you crazy!
The live a lot longer too! The lower speeds of the engines meas the genset will last for years of constant use, were the lawnmower engine versions will crap out in short order.
(how many hours do you usually get out of a little lawn mower engine?)


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## pantser

Is it possible to catch your generator on fire from plugging too much stuff into it? Wouldn't it simply not provide enough power rather than overwork itself?


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## JeepHammer

pantser said:


> Is it possible to catch your generator on fire from plugging too much stuff into it? Wouldn't it simply not provide enough power rather than overwork itself?


Not a modern generator, they come equipped with circuit breakers and other generator protection on the smaller ones,
and on the larger ones, they are routed through your service panel in the home, using the house breakers or fuses.

When I was trying to get the 'Advertised' wattage out of a little gasoline/electric generator (GenSet) the breakers kept popping, so I knew I wasn't using the advertised wattage, so I went to a bigger breaker...

That managed to melt some solder connections inside and stopped generation completely,
And when I was fixing that later on, I noticed some over temperature protection in there also, so if it had seriously overheated, those would have activated (and I'd have had to fix even more stuff!)

So there is more than one 'Fail Safe' to keep them from burning up... 
At least the brand name ones made for the US market are pretty well protected..


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## ant00

After Ike went thru I purchased 5 Guardian propane/NG generators for 2900.00 each with transfer switch included, I have resold 3 at cost to employees that had elderly or young children living in the homes. I have 130KW diesel on my farm that runs everything including water wells. I have been told there are more BTU's in NG, I did not have the option, but two of the new owners do, the other has propane.
I have a couple of home built propane generators around also, just got tired of having to work on them every time we need the and sprung the the trailer mounted 130 KW unit,


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## StillStanding

Dean said:


> If the power goes out would the natural gas lines stop working? Some neighborhoods don't have light poles and their front yards are lighted at night by natural gas so this could be very negative for them or positive since they would still have light if it still works...


In most areas the natural gas distribution system is more or less independent of electricity. California would be the exception because, due to air quality rules, they have electric-powered compressor plants.

The few natural gas genset installations I've seen were set up to run on propane also in the event of a gas outage.


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## Dr. Know

Dean said:


> If the power goes out would the natural gas lines stop working? Some neighborhoods don't have light poles and their front yards are lighted at night by natural gas so this could be very negative for them or positive since they would still have light if it still works...


No, NG is supplied from a "tight line". These line span the country underground and the pressure is maintained by compressor stations. So if the line in not ruptured the gas will be there!

On a side note, just a little advise from a 15 storm veteran, the last thing you should do BEFORE you evac from a storm is cut your gas off at the meter, you could even drop a lock in the lock hole (its there, just look) so if your house is damaged, the chance of fire from a broken pipe is gone!

On propane or NG generators, THEY ARE EXPENSIVE TO RUN, YOUR LOOKING AT >$40 A DAY IF YOU RUN A 4-5 TON AIR CONDITIONER!


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## 10101

you have a couple different routes to travel,

You can buy a gas genset and convert to propane.

or you can buy a propane generator.

heres a couple cheap ones:










Champion 3500 Watt LPG Generator - 70008 at The Home Depot

............








Eastern Tools Generator  3500 Watts, Propane, 6.5 HP OHV, Model# LPG3500 | 1,000 - 4,999 Watts | Northern Tool + Equipment

OR get a nice one:









Briggs & Stratton 40248 - 7 kW PowerNow Propane Generator System


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## readytogo

*Gas/Propane/Natural Gas Conversions*

Don`t buy a new generator, convert it for a few dollars.:beercheer:
http://www.propanecarbs.com/


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## Well_Driller

JeepHammer said:


> Remember, generators run at a constant speed, so if you get the mixture right for 'Full Pull', then it will just run a little rich when it's not 'generating', which you should shut it off anyway...
> Fuel diffusers and engine shut off switches/valves are EASY to wire and use, so there really isn't any reason someone handy couldn't convert a gas or diesel engine generator for propane or CNG.


Most cheap generators run at a 3600 RPM governed speed. If a NG or propane kit is setup properly then it should not be running rich whether it has a load or not. Also you cannot convert a diesel engine to run on propane or NG by itself without adding spark ignition to it. You can however inject propane while running on diesel but probably not much point in doing that on a generator unless the engine needs a power boost. The reason some guys inject propane on their diesel trucks is for performance reasons....



JeepHammer said:


> 7. DO NOT BUY LAWN MOWER ENGINE GENERATORS!
> They are 'High Speed' engines and they will drive you crazy listening to them in short order!
> The larger ones like Onan and Cat will have low speed engines that don't drive you crazy!
> The live a lot longer too! The lower speeds of the engines meas the genset will last for years of constant use, were the lawnmower engine versions will crap out in short order.
> (how many hours do you usually get out of a little lawn mower engine?)


You can still find older onans that run at 1800 RPM in the smaller units which are nice. I have 3 small 2.5KW onans that run nice and quiet at 1800 RPMS and we have a couple that we had been runnning anywhere from 8 to 16 hrs a day 7 days a week for almost a year now. If we would have run one of those 3600 RPM units like that we would have worn it out probably inside a month.... As far as I know on new generators you have to get up into the 20KW range I believe in a commercial unit to get the 1800 RPM generator. A lot of people don't have that kind of money to spend on a generator though the commercial units are by far the best long term investment you can make. So that's why there are so many cheaper 3600 RPM units sold. I am amazed by all these house generators i've seen around here, they're all 3600 RPM units that i've seen up to 20KW unless it's a commercial/industrial generator....


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## LincTex

Well_Driller said:


> As far as I know on new generators you have to get up into the 20KW range I believe in a commercial unit to get the 1800 RPM generator. A lot of people don't have that kind of money to spend on a generator though.


Diesel light towers with Kubota or Isuzu engines are the best buy in the "under 10KW" size. 3-cylinder D905 Kubota with 6Kw head will run 24 hours on just a couple gallons of fuel, and will do it for 20,000 hours, and very quietly at that.

Some RV's also have small diesel Kubota (Cummins/Onan) generators. These are good quality but not cheap.

NONE of any of this is cheap!


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## GaryS

The house I'm selling has a 20kw Generac with a smart circuit that automatically starts the generator when the power is off for a minute or so. It will run on either propane or NG with the flip of a switch. Our little development has its own common propane tanks, so that's what I used. It only had one long run of about six hours, and at the rate it drank fuel, I wouldn't want to run it full time!

The new house I built has a 500 gal propane tank filled and plumbed for when I install a generator here.


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## LincTex

GaryS said:


> a 20kw Generac, and at the rate it drank fuel, I wouldn't want to run it full time!


20KW is a size for folks that feel they need central A/C and know "they will always be able to order more propane!" (and the extra money to pay for it). I think the ideal setup is a small unit, less than 6KW and ONLY used for "essential" loads like refrigerator/freezer and well pump, and only during "high demand" times - like when preparing a meal. If you don't "need" it and can't keep it at a load over 50%, don't run the darn thing.


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## GaryS

LincTex said:


> 20KW is a size for folks that feel they need central A/C and know "they will always be able to order more propane!" (and the extra money to pay for it). I think the ideal setup is a small unit, less than 6KW and ONLY used for "essential" loads like refrigerator/freezer and well pump, and only during "high demand" times - like when preparing a meal. If you don't "need" it and can't keep it at a load over 50%, don't run the darn thing.


Yep, you are absolutely right. The main reason for the 20KW was because we lived in a place that lost power at least once a week for the six years we lived there. Usually it was for only a few minutes, but often it was for hours and a few times it was days. At her age and physical condition, my wife is incapable of handling the job of manually starting and switching a portable generator, so I opted for a fully automatic setup.

I find that my views of "survival" and "preparedness" have evolved considerably as the years take their toll on our bodies and minds. What only a few years ago was deemed important has become frivolous, and what was unneeded then has become a priority now.


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## LincTex

GaryS said:


> my wife is incapable of handling the job of manually starting and switching a portable generator.


Same here, my wife is young but tiny. I bought the electric start Onan for her. (5Kw)



GaryS said:


> "survival" and "preparedness" have evolved considerably .... What was deemed important has become frivolous, and what was unneeded then has become a priority now.


Very true! But that comes with gaining knowledge and wisdom as well.


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## midnight

I'm a bit iffy on natural gas generators. Sure, most compression stations have backup generators that will keep the natural gas line pressure up even during longer blackouts. But if there's a slightly larger natural disaster or if it happens at the "right" place (or wrong place, depending on how you want to put it), you'd be screwed. An earthquake can rupture a natural gas line, a hurricane or tornado can demolish a compression station entirely. I'd definitely run with propane, or at least have some as backup.

Gas-propane conversion generators are also nice, but I dunno if you can get those as home standby models which will turn on automatically, may be a bit harder to come by.


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## shadowrider

The large home auto start generators will run on propane or natural gas.


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## Coastal

Diesel generators are unbeatable for the long haul. They will always outlast a NG gen in life span as combustion temps are cooler. I've seen lots of NG gens pop head gaskets, or have complete catastrophic failure. I like the big diesel brands like john deere, cat, cummins, kubota, even yanmar.


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## LincTex

midnight said:


> I'm a bit iffy on natural gas generators. I'd definitely run with propane, or at least have some as backup.


There is very little that must be done to convert from one fuel to another.

My bulk propane tank is about 80 feet from the Nat gas fueled generator, I am sure I could figure out a way to run it on propane if I needed to.


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## rhrobert

readytogo said:


> Don`t buy a new generator, convert it for a few dollars.:beercheer:
> http://www.propanecarbs.com/


or US Carburation, http://www.uscarburetion.com/ , where I got mine when they had a slick deals offer of 50% off

can't beat it, took about 20 minutes to install, and runs gasoline or propane no issues.


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## readytogo

*A few things about generators.*

Many questions on generators but the most important issue is usage; for what purpose are you buying one because in a emergency no power situation this tool will power other tools or cooking appliances many are worried about powering the entire house or lighting all the Christmas lights, folks in a emergency is nice to have a cup of hot coffee or cocoa and sandwiches and maybe a small room air to sleep in during the hot night but luxuries are out
I spend the week at a friends house and their ice maker was broken, I thought they were going to have a brain aneurysm ,my god people just don`t get it.:laugh:

http://www.generatorjoe.net/html/genfuel.html


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## rhrobert

readytogo said:


> ....folks in a emergency is nice to have a cup of hot coffee or cocoa and sandwiches and maybe a small room air to sleep in during the hot night but luxuries are out


If you are prepared, there is absolutely no reason you can't have luxuries as well. Too many people are focused on just surviving, they lose sight of living.

Some luxuries are important in keeping up morale, and a positive mindset.


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## jimLE

i hope it's ok to post this link..but im wondering about these 2 propane/gas generators..are they worth considering? or am i better off going elsewhere.? my main interest,is the fridge and freezer.and maybe a ac window unit every once in a while.

http://www.whateverworks.com/Search.aspx?txtSearch=propane GENERATORS


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## Country Living

We have a 19cf propane fridge. Right now it's the backup fridge; however, in case of a long-lasting event we'll turn off the whole-house generator and use the propane for the fridge and stove. We heat the house with a wood stove. We re-did all of the windows in the house to double-hung so we can open the lower windows on the side with the breeze and open the upper window on the far side to draw the hot air through and out of the house in the warmer months.

As for the freezer, we're trying to stock it with foods we can either dehydrate (while on generator), can, or keep in the 19cf fridge's freezer.

We have two propane tanks: 250 and 500. The 250 is our primary with the 500 our disaster preparedness tank. When we have them filled, we top off both tanks as much as is safely possible, use the 500 until the tank gets down to 80% and then switch over to the 250 tank.

It takes a bit of effort to define what you really need; but, it's worth it. It's really pretty simple: what do you want to accomplish and then work in the potential solutions.


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## talob

jimLE said:


> i hope it's ok to post this link..but im wondering about these 2 propane/gas generators..are they worth considering? or am i better off going elsewhere.? my main interest,is the fridge and freezer.and maybe a ac window unit every once in a while.
> 
> http://www.whateverworks.com/Search.aspx?txtSearch=propane GENERATORS


I just looked at the generators, something's not right a misprint or something the two thousand watt runs 9 hours and ten hours, the four thousand runs 10 hours and 12 hours with twice the engine size, so you get two thousand watts of power for nothing? Or did I miss something?


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## jimLE

thats just it telob..i know very little about them.so i cant say one way or another on them..pluss it's hard for me to say if their good quality or not..


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## talob

jimLE said:


> thats just it telob..i know very little about them.so i cant say one way or another on them..pluss it's hard for me to say if their good quality or not..


I can't speak of the quality but I'm pretty sure your not going to get 2000 watts for nothing, I bookmarked the site I'd be interested in the 2000 watt but gonna do some homework, get ahold of the company and ask questions.


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## jimLE

thats one thing i've learned about all generators.your not gonna get as much as they say.be it 2000 or 4000 or what ever.but yet,if a person can more/enough for what they need.then their doing all the good.especilly if it's more..


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## Guardian

I think the simple answer comes down to tank size. I might have missed it since I did a quick read but is the fuel quantity greater for the larger one? Looks like they show the same size propane tanks but likely for display purposes. As I said I might have missed those specs.


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## jimLE

2 diff size engines..and diff horse power.one Weighs 60LB'S other Weighs 100LB'S one will run 9 hours other one,runs 10 hours,on gas.both runs 12 hours on propaane

Dual Fuel Propane or Gasoline Generator 2000 Watts
This portable dual fuel generator is ready when the power goes out. Plan ahead for unpredictable weather! 2000W generator conveniently runs on gasoline or propane. Unit has a 4-stroke recoil-start engine and 5-ft. propane hose. Can also be used for camping and tailgating. 3.5 HP dual fuel engine; one 12V DC outlet; two 120V AC outlets. Weighs approx. 60 lbs. Runtime: 9 hours at 50% load on gasoline; 12 hours propane. Propane tank not included. EPA approved. (Not available in CA.) No Express Delivery

Dual Fuel Propane or Gasoline Generator 4000 Watts
This portable dual fuel generator is ready when the power goes out. Plan ahead for unpredictable weather! 4000W generator conveniently runs on gasoline or propane. Unit has a 4-stroke recoil-start engine and 5-ft. propane hose. Can also be used for camping and tailgating. 7.0 HP dual fuel engine; one 12V DC outlet; four 120V AC outlets; one 120V 30-amp RV outlet. Weighs approx. 100 lbs. Runtime: 10 hours at 50% load on gasoline; 12 hours propane. Propane tank not included. EPA approved. (Not available in CA.) No Express Delivery.


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## millertimedoneright

In my experience the rated watts compared to how many useable watts you can get is directly compared to the quality of the generator. I have had cheap Chinese 5500 watt generators that may actually have 3500 useable watts. I have also had good onan and Honda ones that you could easily run the stated watts from. I never suggest pushing them to the limits but I have on a few occasions. In my experience I have found it is always best to run them between 50% to 80% of their capacity. Any less than that and you are wasting fuel but any more and you are putting added strain on the components. If you have the funds and storage tank I would recommend a diesel generator. A 1800 rpm based onan or similar generator will run for years. If that doesn't appeal to you get a 500+ gallon propane tank and get a generator that runs on propane or can be converted to. The diesel generator will burn much less fuel per watt of power and will last longer than the propane but storing diesel can be more of a challenge for most people. All just my personal opinion based on my limited experience.


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## Beaniemaster2

We have a propane generator along with gas but keeping in mind that we won't be able to use our generators for very long, we ordered a solar generator because they are silent... It's only 1800 watts but will give us a few lights and keep my hubby CPAC running...


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## Country Living

Beaniemaster2 said:


> We have a propane generator along with gas but keeping in mind that we won't be able to use our generators for very long, we ordered a solar generator because they are silent... It's only 1800 watts but will give us a few lights and keep my hubby CPAC running...


What kind of solar generator did you buy?


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## Beaniemaster2

We bought it from Solutions from Science... they have other ones but we just wanted the small one... My hubby MUST use his CPAC breathing machine and this was the best for the job...


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## zombieresponder

I don't know if someone already said this or not, so I'll toss it out there. It might appear that I am trying to steer folks away from LPG/NG. I'm not...I'd run NG in a heartbeat if it was available to me.

If you want to run propane or natural gas as generator fuel, buy a propane/NG unit at the start--and buy a quality unit. The typical contractor grade gasoline genset from your local big box store can be converted to lpg/NG, *but* switching fuels will reduce the maximum power output of the unit by 20% or more. This is because LPG/NG contain less energy than gasoline. The ideal engine configurations are different for each fuel as well. Since there is less energy in LPG/NG, you'll burn more of it. Keep that in mind and keep your calculator handy when determining tank size and overall operation cost.

The other consideration is that the 3600rpm screamer engines are noisy and typically don't have much of a service life compared to a higher quality, lower rpm unit. My 1,800rpm Onan's were factory rated at around 5,000 hours minimum before major service, if I remember correctly. I'd be surprised if you got even a small fraction of that from a big box store generator.


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## Tweto

I will never use propane for any emergency purpose. I had a 500 gallon propane tank that went empty over a 6 month period because of micro size leak. So when you need it, you may get a nasty surprised.


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## Country Living

I check the levels in our two propane tanks at least weekly and write the numbers on the calendar. This way I can monitor the levels and resolve any issues quickly. It also allows me to have the numbers at my fingertips when I call for fills.


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## TheLazyL

Beaniemaster2 said:


> ...we ordered a solar generator because they are silent...


I've seen the term "solar generator" popping up recently. I believe it's a marketing misconception and since I'm a Fuddy-duddy, it rubs me a bit the wrong way.

Definition of GENERATOR

one that generates: as

a : an apparatus in which vapor or gas is formed

b : a machine by which mechanical energy is changed into electrical energy

How is a solar cell array, batteries and a electronic controller considered a machine by which mechanical energy is changed into electrical energy?


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## phideaux

Heres what I use for my other generator, I believe a man should diversify..

Just to back up my solar battery pack.

















Jim


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## LincTex

talob said:


> I just looked at the generators, something's not right a misprint or something the two thousand watt runs 9 hours and ten hours, the four thousand runs 10 hours and 12 hours with twice the engine size, so you get two thousand watts of power for nothing? Or did I miss something?


That is only with the factory installed gasoline tanks. The smaller one holds around 3 gallons and the larger one holds about 5 or so.

Those are chinese - same as harbor freight, but different color. Same 3 problems: 
1) ignition system failure, 
2) rubber fuel system parts failure due to alcohol in the fuels, and 
3) the diodes in the exciter circuit going bad.

None of the three are hard to fix. 
Overall, these are pretty good... but you are paying too much for them doing the conversion, IMHO.


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## LincTex

zombieresponder said:


> I don't know if someone already said this or not, so I'll toss it out there. The typical contractor grade gasoline genset from your local big box store can be converted to lpg/NG, *but* switching fuels will reduce the maximum power output of the unit by 20% or more. This is because LPG/NG contain less energy than gasoline.


That is a true statement.

You will not only be a little shy on power, but you'll burn MORE gallons of propane to make the same energy than you would running on gasoline. Right now gasoline is cheaper than propane, and it has more energy per gallon.



zombieresponder said:


> The ideal engine configurations are different for each fuel as well.


This used to be true, but not anymore.

Looking at old Onan manuals, you can see that Propane&NG generators had higher compression and more advanced timing than gasoline models.

Engine manufacturers don't do this anymore. They all have the same compression and timing, which does stink because if you can raise the compression and advance the timing of your engine when on propane, fuel efficiency goes up remarkably.


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## zombieresponder

LincTex, are you saying that a *new* gaseous fuel generator has 100% the same specs as an identical model fueled by gasoline?

In the case of older Onan's, the heads(maybe the pistons too) are different between LPG/NG and gasoline. I've never looked through the manuals enough to compare timing settings or anything else. I do know that Onan used a larger engine than necessary and in most cases, a unit would withstand about double the constant wattage rating for surge....and it was supposed to handle it for something like 20 seconds. They don't make 'em like they used to though.


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## WSSps

Hello, My first post on PS.

I am not new to prep but new here. Last summer, I assembled this gen. I found it off of craigslist for $350, it was near new. Probably had 20hrs on it. I added the US carburetion kit "motor snorkle" which is a tri-fuel kit. Works great! It can switch from gas to lp on the fly, no shut down. Pretty neat! Wheel kit was already on it, so I left it. We have NG plumbed to the house, a 200gl lp tank and (usually) some gasoline stored around the shop. So, whichever is readily available.



















I also have this printed and laminated on the gen, it is specific to the Generac 7500EXL, but can be modified to fit your needs. I am not buying trouble, but it may not be me who has to deal with getting it hooked up, secure and safe in a bad situation. :

Generac 7500EXL Generator

BEWARE OF LETHAL VOLTAGES, use gloves, glasses and common sense. Have a fire extinguisher ready if possible.

-------------------------------------
Generator location:

No location will be perfect but some things MUST BE OBSERVED, note exhaust exit, place generator in a position that allows exhaust to vent properly to avoid Co2 poisoning, DO NOT under any circumstances, run generator INDOORS, orient exhaust to push noise in a better direction as well. Place far enough from dwelling that cords and cables reach, but not so far that you cannot hear a problem arise. Is generator secure? is it in a "likely to be stolen" situation, can it be padlocked to something? DO NOT store fuel close to generator, propane or gasoline.

Pre-start check list:

First check oil. Un-screw yellow oil fill plug and look in hole, if oil is up to threads, it's OK to start.
Oil type is 30w or 10-30w synthetic. Any ENGINE oil will do in a pinch.

Make sure no load is attached to generator, unplug any cords prior to starting. Check plug and cord fit before starting but do not start with cords or plugs attached. Always START and STOP a generator with no load.

--------------------------------------
Check propane (lp) supply:

Running on Lp (propane), MAKE SURE fuel petcock from gasoline tank is in OFF position. Attach LP hose to propane tank using a 1" wrench or a properly adjusted crescent wrench. regulator end that fits on tank is REVERSE THREAD. Hose end that attaches to generator side regulator is STANDARD RIGHT HAND THREAD. Tighten with a 7/8" wrench or properly adjusted crescent wrench. open valve on propane tank, Look, listen, smell for leaks. Tighten more if a leak is present. A squirt bottle filled with water and a little soap sprayed on fittings will expose leaks as well. Any water will work in a pinch. Note were exhaust exits and place propane tank away from path and resulting heat.

Pre start on LP:

Make sure valve on propane tank is open, gasoline petcock is OFF, kill switch on engine is pushed to RUN. Before pushing start button, push small spring loaded button on backside of regulator for 1 or 2 seconds (this puts fresh lp in carburetor, not necessary if engine is warm). Read STARTING PROCEDURE below.

--------------------------------------
Check Gasoline supply:

NEVER FILL WHEN HOT OR RUNNING! fumes or splashing gas may explode. Wear glasses or goggles and gloves when filling tank, leave an inch gap from top of tank and bottom of fill hole. A funnel will help avoid waste and potential danger.

Have a FIRE EXTINGUISHER on hand if possible.

Pre start on gasoline:

Un-hook propane tank if it will not be used, move away from gen. Turn on fuel petcock on bottom of plastic fuel tank, turn on choke by sliding clockwise from top until a slight resistance is felt (the choke no longer opens 100% due to propane conversion, do not force choke lever) Choke is not needed when engine is warm. Let run for 20-30 seconds and then move choke counter clockwise to off position, being ready to move choke back to ON position if engine stumbles, this may need to be done a few times until engine is warmed up. Read STARTING PROCEDURE below.

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Starting procedure:

Push the start button located at engine side of generator, should start up fast, if it does not crank (turnover) or battery is too low, use pull start. Make sure you are in a comfortable position to pull. Use both hands and pull away from anything that will catch or cause injury to your hands. Pull firmly a comfortable distance, DO NOT PULL to end of rope, this may break the cord, not good. A dead battery on the genenerator can still be used to jump start, hook jumper cables from another 12v battery to jump, pos (+) to pos and neg (-) to neg. Red is usually pos and black is usually neg.

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Shut down/ stopping procedure:

REMOVE LOADS from generator, pull all cables and cords attached to generator BEFORE shutting down. If generator is shut down under load, generator is at risk of losing residual magnetism needed to self excite fields for power generation.

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Re-fueling:

LP/propane:

Propane can be switched while running if this procedure is followed. Some gasoline must be in tank, enough to run on while switching propane tanks. 1) open fuel petcock on bottom of fuel tank, when gasoline starts to fuel generator, shut off propane tank valve. 2) change propane tank (do not open valve yet), then shutoff fuel petcock on bottom of fuel tank. 3) within a minute or two, engine should stumble from lack of gasoline, at this point open valve on propane tank.Engine will pick up LP gas and smooth out running again. All done

If you run out of LP/propane in tankard engine shuts off, then simply change tanks and open valve before trying to start, engine should start immediately.

Gasoline: Use caution, NEVER FILL GENERATOR RUNNING or HOT. Allow to cool down for five to ten minutes before filling. exhaust needs to get below gasolines flash point. If generator runs out and quits, fuel must


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## WSSps

Last paragraph should read this way (sorry wrong version):

If you run out of LP/propane in tank, and engine shuts off, then simply change tanks and open valve before trying to start, engine should start immediately.

Gasoline: Use caution, NEVER FILL GENERATOR RUNNING or HOT. Allow to cool down for five to ten minutes before filling. exhaust needs to get below gasoline's flash point. If generator runs out and quits, (after filling with gasoline) fuel must flow from tank, through fuel lines and fill carburetor bowl. This generator should gravity flow fuel to the bowl, nut it may take a few "start" tries to get fuel to carburetor enough to run again. Be patient! BE SAFE!


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## musketjim

Picked up a 4000 w dual fuel generator(propane,gasoline) for BOL. More generator than I need there at the present time but I may expand. Been running only on propane because it's easier to rotate in and out. My friend told me that running on propane also keeps the oil cleaner.


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## WSSps

musketjim said:


> My friend told me that running on propane also keeps the oil cleaner.


The oil will still need to be changed, even if it looks fresh or clean. The oil still breaks down and looses it's ability to lubricate properly. Stick to the recommended hours in the manual.

Synthetic oil will remain stable longer than dino oil and it lubricates better from the beginning. Something to consider when storing parts and supplies for your generator.


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## LincTex

zombieresponder said:


> LincTex, are you saying that a *new* gaseous fuel generator has 100% the same specs as an identical model fueled by gasoline?
> 
> In the case of older Onan's, the heads(maybe the pistons too) are different between LPG/NG and gasoline. I've never looked through the manuals enough to compare timing settings or anything else.


Yes - - exactly the same. 
It's too costly to tool up a "dedicated fuel" engine anymore.

Air Cooled Onans had higher compression heads & advanced timing

Liquid cooled Onans had different pistons and advanced timing


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## Tirediron

WSSps said:


> The oil will still need to be changed, even if it looks fresh or clean. The oil still breaks down and looses it's ability to lubricate properly. Stick to the recommended hours in the manual.
> 
> Synthetic oil will remain stable longer than dino oil and it lubricates better from the beginning. Something to consider when storing parts and supplies for your generator.


yeah but on propane 10 hour oil changes are a waste of oil, carbon build up usually fouls oil before it starts to breakdown, and the engine will let you know by starting to burn it.


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## readytogo

If you have the money and space you can get a nice floor mounted power system to keep all your knickknacks running but emergencies are just that, emergencies and been so I don`t see the need or expense for such a system, growing up without power or a fridge taught me something taught me to be creative and better prepared especially during times of crisis .My small generator kept the fans going, had a cooler was full of ice and no issues till the power came back a week later, Andrew in 92.72 hours after it hit gas ,ice ,and the Sun was bright as hell ,I think Solar is the key here folks ,no gas leaks to worried about or dangerous fuel storage worries either but the main ingredient here is “preparedness for an emergency”. No fancy air condition or talking refrigerator either, oh maybe a small 3-way rv fridge to keep the milk for the kids cold and some ice for the tea or my friend JackD.


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## oldasrocks

Small generators have a place but are not made for long term use. They're great for a weekend camping trip or a short outage. They are not made for use days on end like the standby units. Our standby ran nicely for 11 days after an ice storm. Several friends that had the smaller 3.5 or 5 hp units had trouble with them.


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## WSSps

Tirediron said:


> yeah but on propane 10 hour oil changes are a waste of oil, carbon build up usually fouls oil before it starts to breakdown, and the engine will let you know by starting to burn it.


Does your generator manual recommend changing oil at ten hours?

That is true about carbon fouling. But, because the oil in a propane engine looks clean, does not mean it is not broken down. No argument just saying, its abot the hours not how it looks.


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## Tirediron

WSSps said:


> Does your generator manual recommend changing oil at ten hours?
> 
> That is true about carbon fouling. But, because the oil in a propane engine looks clean, does not mean it is not broken down. No argument just saying, its abot the hours not how it looks.


Most flathead splash lubed engines had a 10 hour oil change interval, something with a pressure system and filter would be longer. 
the appearance is definitely not much of a gauging factor other than if the oil is metallic, then maybe a bit more than the oil will need attention.

I found a oil agglomerant test in which you put a drop of in service oil on a stretched sheet of printer paper to check weather the additive package was still collecting and suspending "dirt" properly however I lost the info.

I have found that an engine in good operating condition will begin to use oil at the end of the oils useful life.

little used gens need an annual change at minimum.


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