# Machete?



## TechAdmin (Oct 1, 2008)

Who makes a good Machete? I want to stock up on a few but want them to last. Previously I would go down to my surplus store but I find that all they carry are just stamped metal and that's to flimsy.


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## bunkerbob (Sep 29, 2009)

I think most machetes are stamped metal. Pretty cheap and useful, the one I have, purchased from a surplus store, has a black resin handle and has lasted for years, they usually bend before breaking. Get one of the sheaths to keep it in, keeps it sharper and protects you from the sharp blade.


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## Canadian (Dec 14, 2008)

I've heard Cold Steel makes several good ones.


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## jjtraveler70 (Oct 27, 2009)

*Machetes*

There are machetes for every occasion. In the US it is a bit difficult to find a good selection. Here are some goods sites for variety:

Discount Cutlery
Machete Specialist
Knife Supply Company

In general terms, if you need a working tool, choose a carbon steel machete since the metal is tougher and retains its edge better (the drawback is that they rust). Stainless is good for decoration, but not for real work. If only using occasionally, and you are willing to pay a bit extra, then go for high carbon stainless like 420HC. With both anti-corrosion properties as well as good edge retention, you won't have to worry about it rusting while you wait to use it. There is some good info on the different styles of survival machete here.


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## Expeditioner (Jan 6, 2009)

Cold Steel and Kabar make very good machetes. The first three are by Cold Steel and run around $15. The fourth pic is a Kabar and runs around $60. I can get the Kabar for $50 shipped. I can also get the Cold Steel machetes. The have seevral kukuri styles as well.


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## allen_idaho (Oct 21, 2009)

If you want a machete that is really going to stand up to time and punishment, I would suggest getting ahold of a spare leaf spring from a auto salvage yard. Then, just shape and sharpen however you like, drill 2 holes and fasten on a wood or plastic handle. 

The benefit is that the leaf spring is already a very resilient piece of metal. It has already been heat treated and the steel alloy is designed to withstand massive amounts of stress and shock. Plus it has a natural springiness so you will not have to worry about your blade bending out of shape very easily. 

Plus, it will probably cost you a fraction of what a commercially available machete goes for.


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## Expeditioner (Jan 6, 2009)

allen_idaho said:


> If you want a machete that is really going to stand up to time and punishment, I would suggest getting ahold of a spare leaf spring from a auto salvage yard. Then, just shape and sharpen however you like, drill 2 holes and fasten on a wood or plastic handle.
> 
> The benefit is that the leaf spring is already a very resilient piece of metal. It has already been heat treated and the steel alloy is designed to withstand massive amounts of stress and shock. Plus it has a natural springiness so you will not have to worry about your blade bending out of shape very easily.
> 
> Plus, it will probably cost you a fraction of what a commercially available machete goes for.


This suggestion was already made in another thread about 4 months ago. A great reminder on improvising.


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## TechAdmin (Oct 1, 2008)

I like the leaf spring Idea. I was looking into cold steel, but have never used any of there products. I sent off for a video that demonstrates it and a million other things in there catalog.


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## NaeKid (Oct 17, 2008)

If you have ever thought of making your own "broad-sword", use the flattest / thinnest leaf-spring from a 1/2-ton truck and draw your sword (or machette) pattern on it, cut profile with steel-cutting jig-saw blade, use a hand-grinder (5" or 7") to shape an edge onto it, a drill with HSS bits to drill out the holes for the handle - and a laser to make the hand-guards.

If you have a local spring-shop handy - you can get them to put the temper back into the steel for long-life after all the heat has been applied to it. Alternatively - you can get a spring-shop to supply you with very flat "never used" steel to make your spring-steel sword or machette out of.

More information about sword / machette materials - check here: http://www.realarmorofgod.com/sword-materials.html


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## Jason (Jul 25, 2009)

Naekid-if you use a grinder to shape the edge, do you have to be careful not to overheat it or anything?


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## NaeKid (Oct 17, 2008)

Keep the grinder doing even strokes and don't allow the steel to glow. Hot to the touch is fine - an orange color that stays for a while isn't. If you reach blue-hot - it is way (way) too much. After you get the metal to the right general shape, you can use a few different files to remove the heat-affected zones and fine-tune the shape of the blade, the back, etc.

The best thing to do prior to putting the handle on is to get it heat-treated to bring all the molecules back into alignment - which means when it gets used, it will be less likely to crack or break completely.


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## Jason (Jul 25, 2009)

I'm really interested in trying this. I have plenty of old leaf springs around. Is it expensive to have the thing heat treated? And say the spring is rusty-do you just sand it smooth, or how would you de-rust it? I do have a small blast cabinet. Not sure I'd want a blast-profiled machete, though.


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## NaeKid (Oct 17, 2008)

Jason said:


> I'm really interested in trying this. I have plenty of old leaf springs around. Is it expensive to have the thing heat treated? And say the spring is rusty-do you just sand it smooth, or how would you de-rust it? I do have a small blast cabinet. Not sure I'd want a blast-profiled machete, though.


The rust would not cause you any real grief, unless it is really pitted. A simple wire-wheel on a hand-grinder would remove any rust left on the spring and leave it looking fairly polished.

Prices for heat-treating? I work in the metal industry and the company I work for supplies one of Canada's major leaf / coil spring manufacturers ... I would be able to just toss it into one of their ovens to be treated in the middle of a production run ... if you have a suspension-shop near-by, they may do the same for you.

I did an online yellow-pages search for "metal heat treating" for the Calgary area and was given 34 local hits. I would suggest you do something similar after you have profiled the machete ..


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## allen_idaho (Oct 21, 2009)

You can do the heat treating yourself if you have access to a forge or at the very least an oxy-acetylene setup. 

All you need to do once you have finished the blade is heat the metal until it is red hot. Then quench it in a bucket of water. 

Now, after you have quenched the blade, you are going to slowly heat it again. As you do, you will see the color of the metal change. You are going to only want to heat it enough to turn blue. But if you overheat it a bit, that is fine too. 

Once you have the blued the blade, quench it in the bucket again. Viola. One heat treated machete.


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## NaeKid (Oct 17, 2008)

allen_idaho said:


> You can do the heat treating yourself if you have access to a forge or at the very least an oxy-acetylene setup.
> 
> All you need to do once you have finished the blade is heat the metal until it is red hot. Then quench it in a bucket of water.
> 
> ...


Most people do not have the equipment to properly heat-treat metals. It is a bit of an exacting science. For one of my blades that I forged (damascus-steel), I used a kiln (like used for firing ceramics), placed a "bucket" inside filled with salt. Heat the kiln to 1500°F and watch the salt turn to a liquid. At that point, the blade was slipped into the liquid-salt and allowed to stay in there for 24hrs. The blade was then brought out of the liquid-salt and allowed to cool on the lid of the kiln at the rate that the kiln itself cooled at.

The only thing that makes spring steel "springy" is the amount of hardness to which the steel has been tempered. To understand this, it is important to know that steel when heated and quenched rapidly it becomes hard - sometimes hard as glass depending on the formula of steel you have. Slow, even tempering of a lower heat is what brings the steel down from a very hard state to one that is more resilient and much more relaxed, yet springy.


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## Jason (Jul 25, 2009)

I did not know any of that. Thanks for the info, guys.


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## sailaway (Mar 12, 2009)

NaeKid, I didn't know you forged. I just made a single brick forge like the one in BackWoods Mag. I walked the RR tracks, found some old spikes and want to try my hand at making some Knives.


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## NaeKid (Oct 17, 2008)

I learned how to make damascus steel (aka, Japanese sword folded 200 times) from a local master. I have made several knives now, some good, some not so good. I don't have my own forge (yet) so I make do with what I have handy. Because I work in the metal industry, I have access to some varied materials. I have tried to make knives from QT-100, AR-200, AR-500, 304 stainless, 409 stainless, 316 stainless .... and I haven't been too happy with any of them.

I haven't made a sword yet - it is on my list of projects to complete .. I know the theory, have the books (blade smithing, advanced blade smiithing, sword making, forging, farm-tool-making via forge, etc), read most of them - just need to continue the practice.


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## TechAdmin (Oct 1, 2008)

I want to see pics when your done! I love steel. Love blades.


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## Expeditioner (Jan 6, 2009)

NaeKid said:


> I learned how to make damascus steel (aka, Japanese sword folded 200 times) from a local master. I have made several knives now, some good, some not so good. I don't have my own forge (yet) so I make do with what I have handy. Because I work in the metal industry, I have access to some varied materials. I have tried to make knives from QT-100, AR-200, AR-500, 304 stainless, 409 stainless, 316 stainless .... and I haven't been too happy with any of them.
> 
> I haven't made a sword yet - it is on my list of projects to complete .. I know the theory, have the books (blade smithing, advanced blade smiithing, sword making, forging, farm-tool-making via forge, etc), read most of them - just need to continue the practice.


Just remember Daniel-san: Wax On.............Wax Off!!!!


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## Canadian (Dec 14, 2008)

NaeKid said:


> I learned how to make damascus steel (aka, Japanese sword folded 200 times) from a local master. I have made several knives now, some good, some not so good. I don't have my own forge (yet) so I make do with what I have handy. Because I work in the metal industry, I have access to some varied materials. I have tried to make knives from QT-100, AR-200, AR-500, 304 stainless, 409 stainless, 316 stainless .... and I haven't been too happy with any of them.
> 
> I haven't made a sword yet - it is on my list of projects to complete .. I know the theory, have the books (blade smithing, advanced blade smiithing, sword making, forging, farm-tool-making via forge, etc), read most of them - just need to continue the practice.


Hattori Hanzo lives in Alberta?


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## sailaway (Mar 12, 2009)

After all of this talk about machetes I think I will get one for my axe and saw tool box. I never knew you could keep a thread going this long on one.:scratch


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## NaeKid (Oct 17, 2008)

sailaway said:


> After all of this talk about machetes I think I will get one for my axe and saw tool box. I never knew you could keep a thread going this long on one.:scratch


I have an 'ol-cheapie machete tucked into a corner in my Jeep .. with all the talk about machete's .. I think that I might just make myself a heavier one just so that I can say that I did it :2thumb:


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## TechAdmin (Oct 1, 2008)

I got the video form cold steel and there smashing through skulls and bones to prove the effectiveness of there products. I think I'm going to buy one. It's brutal thought there smashing through cow skulls recently de-fleshed and everything. Not for those with a weak stomach.


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## sailaway (Mar 12, 2009)

I purchased a machete for 5 bucks at Harbor Freight tonight. The blade definately needs some heat treating. It's 18" long.


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## TechAdmin (Oct 1, 2008)

Let me know how it works.


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## Expeditioner (Jan 6, 2009)

Dean said:


> I got the video form cold steel and there smashing through skulls and bones to prove the effectiveness of there products. I think I'm going to buy one. It's brutal thought there smashing through cow skulls recently de-fleshed and everything. Not for those with a weak stomach.


Cold Steel makes a great product. The CS products that I sell at gun shows usually sell out the first day.


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## kyfarmer (Feb 22, 2009)

NaeKid said:


> I learned how to make damascus steel (aka, Japanese sword folded 200 times) from a local master. I have made several knives now, some good, some not so good. I don't have my own forge (yet) so I make do with what I have handy. Because I work in the metal industry, I have access to some varied materials. I have tried to make knives from QT-100, AR-200, AR-500, 304 stainless, 409 stainless, 316 stainless .... and I haven't been too happy with any of them.
> 
> I haven't made a sword yet - it is on my list of projects to complete .. I know the theory, have the books (blade smithing, advanced blade smiithing, sword making, forging, farm-tool-making via forge, etc), read most of them - just need to continue the practice.


Hey, NaeKid if you want some real steel find an old sawmill blade, yep those 4 footer's a friend of mine makes knife's outa this stuff and they are tough that's for sure. They do rust if not cared for right but hold a razor edge. Just enough flex not to break and still tough enough to do about anything with.


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## TechAdmin (Oct 1, 2008)

Expeditioner said:


> Cold Steel makes a great product. The CS products that I sell at gun shows usually sell out the first day.


That's what I've been told. I think if your offernig a quality product it will sell. Cold steel sells. They seem pricy is my concern, but you get what you pay for. Do you cary the CS Machete and what do you charge? Are you a CS vendor and get to buy in bulk?


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## HozayBuck (Jan 27, 2010)

NaeKid said:


> If you have ever thought of making your own "broad-sword", use the flattest / thinnest leaf-spring from a 1/2-ton truck and draw your sword (or machette) pattern on it, cut profile with steel-cutting jig-saw blade, use a hand-grinder (5" or 7") to shape an edge onto it, a drill with HSS bits to drill out the holes for the handle - and a laser to make the hand-guards.
> 
> If you have a local spring-shop handy - you can get them to put the temper back into the steel for long-life after all the heat has been applied to it. Alternatively - you can get a spring-shop to supply you with very flat "never used" steel to make your spring-steel sword or machette out of.
> 
> More information about sword / machette materials - check here: What's the difference in Sword Materials?


Great site!! thanks NK !! I've always had a thing for the Katana's after handling one brought back from Saipan by a former Marine who picked it after a fight.. they just seem to talk to you... really! I can not imagine facing somebody who knows how to use one...unless I had my trusty ol 1911!

I want one!!!!!


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## mitchshrader (Jan 3, 2009)

There aren't many places in the US that a machete is necessary. It darn sure isn't in Oklahoma, nor in any hardwood forest, nor in fact anywhere it snows. 

I own half a dozen 'big knives' that go as far as anything will in real woods. I've also got axes and hatchets designed specifically for cutting hardwood. 

If succulents, vines, and underbrush are thick.. machete time. Otherwise half the length of blade and twice the thickness.. or a camp axe. My big knives are 10-12 inches, and amongst 'em are 3 Kershaw Outcasts and a Smatchett, and the axes include a Kelly Perfect 1 lb hatchet, a Collins double bit axe, 2 Sater Banko hatchets, a Firestone 'half axe' (20", 1.5lb head) and next to 'em is a 30" bow saw.. 

but I don't own any machetes..


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## RedRocker (Nov 6, 2008)

Ontario makes a good product


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## Littlebit (Apr 20, 2010)

I bought a Gator machete from Cabela's. Nice! I just ordered the Gator jr. Good weight and I love the grip.


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## bassman (Jan 3, 2009)

As far as machetes go, my favorite pick is the Woodsman's Pal, it has 3 cutting edges, one is a curved cicyle edge another has a thick edge for choping and a third has a straight chisle likr edge for digging. The grip feels good and the whole thing is practically indestructable. Cost about 80 bucks but worth it!


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## PopPop (Sep 14, 2010)

I have the woodsman pal and a Cold Steel, 18 inch ( I Think ). These are both quality pieces but I agree with Mitchschrader, they have limited uses in the southeast USA. You have to expend a lot of energy to cut anyrthing of substance. I also have a couple of Estwing camp axes and these are much more useful and in my opinion the bare minimum for wood cutting/ gathering. As for machettes , I have found a bush axe to be much more efficient at clearing brush.


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## mosquitomountainman (Jan 25, 2010)

I have a sawback Kershaw machete. It's good. I touched up the saw teeth with a triangular file and sharpened the blade with a file to get it in top working order. It came with a good sheath.

Cold Steel is good. Also, I've heard a lot about Tramontina machetes made in Brazill. They have a dozen or more models to choose from. The price is cheap. Shipping varies. Go to this site and shoot them an email about machetes. Vec's Hawk Project They have some really cool tomahawks too. Pricey but the best quality you'll ever see.


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## aluminum (Mar 29, 2009)

mitchshrader said:


> There aren't many places in the US that a machete is necessary. It darn sure isn't in Oklahoma,* nor in any hardwood forest, nor in fact anywhere it snows. *
> 
> I own half a dozen 'big knives' that go as far as anything will in real woods. I've also got axes and hatchets designed specifically for cutting hardwood.
> 
> ...


You are wrong there sir..... I live in Ohio, and own 18 acres of hardwoods, and it snows alot!! and there are many places on my property you cannot get 3 ft without needing a machete!


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## bassman (Jan 3, 2009)

You all make a good point, Up here in New Hampshire we have a lot of puckerbrush but I l rarely use a machete! I don't like the long blade hanging from my belt that's why I like the Woodsman Pal. I have an Estwing camp axe and I love it, all metal handle is strong!
I carry it in my truck 24/7 along with a small bow saw. and they are small enough to pack into the woods if need be! 
Thanks for the lead on vec's hawk project, I will check it out!


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## GeoMonkey (Aug 19, 2010)

Jeff Randall, of RAT/ESEE knives, started making a top quality machete this year. Good 1075 carbon steel and life-time guarentee makes the $50+ price worth it.

I've used mine to de-limb Doug firs in my yard with 1" - 2" thick branches.


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## The_Blob (Dec 24, 2008)

aluminum said:


> You are wrong there sir..... I live in Ohio, and own 18 acres of hardwoods, and it snows alot!! and there are many places on my property you cannot get 3 ft without needing a machete!


blackberry bushes? 

Gallipolis, isn't that where we WON the 'War with West Virginia'?

history lesson:

One day, West By-God Virginia had decided they had had enough of those Damn Yankee Ohioans' crap. 
So they started chucking sticks of DYNAMITE  across the river into Ohio. 
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
The Ohioans picked up the dynamite, *LIT* it, and threw it back! :lolsmash:


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## Bhutchens21 (Nov 10, 2010)

mitchshrader said:


> There aren't many places in the US that a machete is necessary. It darn sure isn't in Oklahoma, nor in any hardwood forest, nor in fact anywhere it snows.
> 
> I own half a dozen 'big knives' that go as far as anything will in real woods. I've also got axes and hatchets designed specifically for cutting hardwood.
> 
> ...


What part of Oklahoma did you live in? I lived in the Edmond area, and I used a machete constantly. Further south near the Red, there are thickets that you can't get more than a foot through the bush without one. That's where I have placed my BOL. The best and worst part about it is that it is completely inaccessible. That is, it's inaccessible to anyone who doesn't own a machete. (I live in north Texas now)


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## bassman (Jan 3, 2009)

Is Jeff Randall the offspring of the infamous Randall Knives? If so than that IS a top quality Machete!


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## GeoMonkey (Aug 19, 2010)

bassman said:


> Is Jeff Randall the offspring of the infamous Randall Knives? If so than that IS a top quality Machete!


Jeff's no relation there, but he runs a Survival School down in South America and trains civilians, govt. agents and other law enforcement folks. He uses machetes down there constantly.


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## truecarnage (Apr 25, 2010)

Ya try Florida, Mitchshrader


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## feathers (Mar 15, 2011)

I am planning to make one out of an old chainsaw bar, very hard steel. Mainly to use for things like cutting up pumpkins etc. I do like the idea of the leaf spring, although it would be a lot heavier and thicker.


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## HarleyRider (Mar 1, 2010)

A lot of the gardeners down here use machettes to trim hedges.


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## feathers (Mar 15, 2011)

I had a look at some old leaf springs from an old landcruiser, but they are all curved except for the base plate. Which got me thinking, how do you make swords out of them when they are not flat?


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## bassman (Jan 3, 2009)

I never tried to make one from an old leaf spring but I imagine you would have to heat it and flatten the bend out of it!


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## Demdra23 (May 10, 2011)

When it comes to Machetes, look for, my personal favorite, Vietnam era military issued Machetes. I've used my father's all my life for hacking through the woods and chopping firewood. It has been known to get stuck chopping through wood, but a direct hit with a sledgehammer always fixed the problem without hurting nor breaking the blade. I am 35 years old and it still works perfectly.


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## NaeKid (Oct 17, 2008)

feathers said:


> I had a look at some old leaf springs from an old landcruiser, but they are all curved except for the base plate. Which got me thinking, how do you make swords out of them when they are not flat?


On some vehicles, the springs are placed into the vehicle "flat" and when the weight of the vehicle rests on the wheels, they will "invert". On some vehicles the springs are pre-curved, either up or down (drop springs or lift springs).

Some Chevys and Fords start out with flat springs and some start with curved springs. The only way to figure out what you have is to pull a spring-pack apart and set each spring on a flat surface.

Another option would be to take a curved spring and run it through a set of rollers while hot to remove the curve. A spring-shop would be able to do that for you before you shape the blade and put on a handle.


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## auntievintage (May 10, 2011)

We've used several machetes to clear land around our camp here in Maine and the best, by a LONG shot, has been the Gerber brush thinner. We've used it on a regular basis for several years. It is worth the $33, has kept a great edge, has a good weight and is comfortable to use for an extended time. We read about it in the Back Woodsman magazine as the #1 choice for a machete- Gerber Gator Brush Thinner Machete with Sheath - #31-000083 : Gerber Knives - at Rocky National


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## Magus (Dec 1, 2008)

How thick is the blade?I think I want one!


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## UncleJoe (Jan 11, 2009)

Did you read the 2 reviews on it? It appears the new handle is a bit weak.


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## Meerkat (May 31, 2011)

Dean said:


> Who makes a good Machete? I want to stock up on a few but want them to last. Previously I would go down to my surplus store but I find that all they carry are just stamped metal and that's to flimsy.


I just posted about machete making before I saw this thread.But hubby does'nt make them anymore.

The ones he made would cut most knives in half.


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## Meerkat (May 31, 2011)

feathers said:


> I had a look at some old leaf springs from an old landcruiser, but they are all curved except for the base plate. Which got me thinking, how do you make swords out of them when they are not flat?


You heat it with a torch till red beat it into shape with a sledge on steel.It thins it as you beat it.Then a grinder,last a sander.it will buff up to a mirrow glaze.


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## redneckhillbilly (Aug 28, 2010)

I've made a few out of old leaf springs. build a nice fire with some hardwood and get a good bed of coals going and toss the leaf spring in til it gets nice and hot (cherry red) pull it out and beat it flat and into the shape you want. Grind, shape, and sharpen. Reheat then chunk into a tub of old used motor oil for quenching and tempering. It also adds a nice black patina that also helps prevent rusting. I can split logs with it. Get it started and then hammer on the spine until it cuts thru. As far as stamped steel machetes go, i bought a cheapy probably 30 years ago with a plastic handle and a crappy sheath. i still have it. works great. i have chopped brush, saplings and small trees down with it. i have bought thicker bladed machetes that were a bit stiffer but i keep going back to my thin blade.


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## Magus (Dec 1, 2008)

Meerkat said:


> You heat it with a torch till red beat it into shape with a sledge on steel.It thins it as you beat it.Then a grinder,last a sander.it will buff up to a mirrow glaze.


I have a press I made out of those 3/4" back springs from a log truck and some heavy Chanel Iron and a six ton bottle jack, I cold forge my big ones flat then torch them out.


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## Immolatus (Feb 20, 2011)

I got one of these on a recommendation. Love it.


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## Magus (Dec 1, 2008)

Nice blades,I've never used mine.always had a "Klunker" handy.


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## oldvet (Jun 29, 2010)

Littlebit said:


> I bought a Gator machete from Cabela's. Nice! I just ordered the Gator jr. Good weight and I love the grip.


Littlebit: My son and I each have a Gator and a Gator Jr. They have held up very well and so far keep a good edge. The price is also right at about $19.00 each. The gator jr. is a great camp knife. I don't think you can go to wrong with the Gerber, Cold Steel, or the Kabar.

oldvet


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## BrookeKilby (Oct 17, 2011)

Cold Steel makes the best machetes by far. 

They have several different catalogs and they do closeouts every few months on different items and sometimes have seconds which are minor imperfections that do not hinder the function of the blade which can save you extra money. 

They are also reasonably priced.


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## lotsoflead (Jul 25, 2010)

If you have the time and a grinder, you can make a great machete out of an old chain saw bar or an old lawn mower blade. A 24-24 inch chain saw bar makes a nice one, just takes a couple days. draw the pattern you want first and saw it out with an all saw or jig saw with a steel blade in it, then spend some time grinding and making a handle.


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