# Logging Tools



## PreparedRifleman73 (Nov 2, 2012)

So I've purchased acreage with woods. I'm picking up a Still MS 180 C-BE chainsaw and safety gear (I've seen several people die of chainsaw wounds). I'm looking for additional logging tools, like a cant hook, logjack and pickeroon. Does anybody know a good brand of these? I'm looking at woodchuck tools. I want something durable. If they make long ones, that's great as I am 6'6".


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## cowboyhermit (Nov 10, 2012)

The ones I bought new from Lee Valley are great;
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=51108&cat=1,41131








http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=20117&cat=1,41131








http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=20119&cat=1,41131,51119








http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=20115&cat=1,41131








http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=70216&cat=1,41131









They carry excellent products, made in Canada, USA, Austria, etc.

If you are looking for something different, Stihl makes some more "modern" tools that are good.


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## bacpacker (Jul 15, 2011)

http://peaveymfg.com/

I have been looking for some logging tools myself. Peavy has all kinds of stuff, nice catalog and a good follow up. Give them a look.

BTW I'm 6-4 and they do have longer handles available than most places I found.


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## ZoomZoom (Dec 18, 2009)

My cant hook and similar items are pretty generic (I don't know the name brand(s) but probably got at places like Tractor Supply.

They're about 1/2 the price of what's been mentioned and I've never had one break.

How big of trees are you planning on cutting? That's a pretty small saw you've selected. I have one that's about the same size (Husqvarna 338XTP) and I wouldn't reach for that saw for anything larger than about 6" _unless I'm feeling very patient._


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## cowboyhermit (Nov 10, 2012)

Well, we aren't known for our huge trees in the Canadian parkland, but I broke a cheap peavey on a birch (2-3ft) that I cut with a ms170 (well actually it was a 021, but that just means I'm old, same saw). The socket that holds the spike broke :dunno: 

Guess I am the exception to the rule. In another part of the world (west coast) they have some slightly larger trees  broke a peavey there too, this time it was the handle socket, and it wasn't mine. Admittedly I have a history of breaking hand tools, it took me a lot of years to finally stop listening to the "Push as hard as you can, there is NO WAY it can break."  almost broke my hand when a snap-on swingbar let go.

So, I buy top quality hand tools, especially when their failure can be dangerous, like when rolling a log up a ramp or on top of a building. Maybe it's not worth it, but every one that I have bought looks like it will last much more than my lifetime. Ironically, I am mean to my little saws (big ones get babied) they bounce around for years in the truck, cut much more than they reasonably should (If your bar is less than half the diameter of the tree...) and still work like a damn. I haven't really "broken" one.


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## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

.
My log jack is homemade, but is nearly the same as this one:

http://www.qcsupply.com/steel-handl...azon&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=productfeeds

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/32-in-steel-log-jack/A-p8217283e











UncleJoe said:


> But seriously, you're going to want something larger than the MS180 if you're cutting 4-5 cord of wood every year. Having the right tool for the job makes the job so much easier.


*I AGREE! *

Yes, the 180 will cut wood... 
but really, the time spend running a chainsaw will INDEED fatigue you. You will eventually find yourself wanting to be "full throttle" less & less & less as time goes on.

Don't be afraid of the 50cc - 60cc class saws. Find a nice one in good used condition. I have both the MS290 and also Super 028 AV saws that were each under $250 - - Isn't that about what you paid for your MS180? The bigger saws will cut SOOOO much faster and easier, you will come back & thank us again later, especially if you really do try to process 4-5 cords with the MS180.


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## PreparedRifleman73 (Nov 2, 2012)

cowboyhermit said:


> The ones I bought new from Lee Valley are great;They carry excellent products, made in Canada, USA, Austria, etc.
> 
> If you are looking for something different, Stihl makes some more "modern" tools that are good.


Thanks for the advice. I like the look of the lee valley ones!



bacpacker said:


> I have been looking for some logging tools myself. Peavy has all kinds of stuff, nice catalog and a good follow up. Give them a look.
> 
> BTW I'm 6-4 and they do have longer handles available than most places I found.


So it looks like when it comes to pickaroons/hookaroons, this is the place to go for tall guys. They make much longer handles (a 31" handle is useless to me). Thanks, looks like some other long handled tools too!



ZoomZoom said:


> How big of trees are you planning on cutting? That's a pretty small saw you've selected. I have one that's about the same size (Husqvarna 338XTP) and I wouldn't reach for that saw for anything larger than about 6" _unless I'm feeling very patient._


This is about as large as I could expect on my land, I'm buying the land this Friday.










UncleJoe said:


> Agreed. You may get fatigued pretty quick bending over all the time with that small saw. It's going to get hard on the back in short order. I would recommend a saw that will run a 20" bar. The Stihl 290 or 360 would fit the bill and it won't have to work near as hard to do the same amount of cutting. Now if you want to make a serious investment the 460 is a mean machine and will cut through wood like a hot knife through butter. But it also comes with a mean price tag. Here's a used one with a 25" bar for $700. Not a bad price actually. You can often find a used one on craigslist in the $400- $500 area. A new one is around $950.
> 
> But seriously, you're going to want something larger than the 180 if you're cutting 4-5 cord of wood every year. Having the right tool for the job makes the job so much easier.


I really appreciate the advice. I ended up going with the Stihl MS 181 C-BE for a few reasons. One is the price, of course. I know that you get what you pay for (and this forum would certainly agree). However, there are a ton of other things that need to be done around this place with the money.

Another reason is that I'm just cleaning up downed trees, felling dead trees, clearing some areas for a garden, etc... I am not cutting 4-5 cord per year as I don't have any wood burning appliances. I will be adding one ASAP as a backup.

Another reason is that I need to re-familiarize myself with chainsaws before I stick a 20" bar into a 6" tree and kill myself.

The reason I don't burn wood is sorta complicated. Basically, my job doesn't afford me the freetime just yet to do that. I'm 7-8 months into starting my own insurance agency.

However, if and when I start burning wood as my primary, I guess I have a good reason to go buy a second larger saw that'll run a 20" easily. Then my 181 will trim just great!



LincTex said:


> .
> Yes, the 180 will cut wood...
> but really, the time spend running a chainsaw will INDEED fatigue you. You will eventually find yourself wanting to be "full throttle" less & less & less as time goes on.
> 
> Don't be afraid of the 50cc - 60cc class saws. Find a nice one in good used condition. I have both the MS290 and also Super 028 AV saws that were each under $250 - - Isn't that about what you paid for your MS180? The bigger saws will cut SOOOO much faster and easier, you will come back & thank us again later, especially if you really do try to process 4-5 cords with the MS180.


Again, I went with the 181 for a few reasons listed above. If I start burning wood seriously, I'm definitely going up past the 50cc range. Thanks!


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## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

hawkmiles said:


> The reason I don't burn wood is sorta complicated. Basically, my job doesn't afford me the free time just yet to do that.


You'll have free time eventually.

A good air-tight stove will keep a fire all night, and will also have coals waiting for you when you get home.

What kind of trees do you have on the property?


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## PreparedRifleman73 (Nov 2, 2012)

LincTex said:


> You'll have free time eventually.
> 
> A good air-tight stove will keep a fire all night, and will also have coals waiting for you when you get home.
> 
> What kind of trees do you have on the property?


I'd love to get a wood stove inside and a wood gasification boiler outside. We have a line of pines for a windbreak, otherwise it is a lot of oak and maple. Cutting the dead stuff will supply quite a few cord, but of our 12 acres only about 3-4 acres is woods (except the row of pines), probably not self sustaining. However, we often have storms and people say "you cut, you haul, you keep" all for free.


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## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

hawkmiles said:


> we often have storms and people say "you cut, you haul, you keep" all for free.


That is my #1 source of fire wood.

I'll put an ad on Craigslist after a big storm and go crazy for 18 hours.


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## biobacon (Aug 20, 2012)

Awsome news on getting that land. Can I suggest a book for you. Its by one of our own here on the forum.

http://www.amazon.com/Greenhorns-Gu...=sr_1_6?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1426728926&sr=1-6


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## cowboyhermit (Nov 10, 2012)

hawkmiles said:


> So it looks like when it comes to pickaroons/hookaroons, this is the place to go for tall guys. They make much longer handles (a 31" handle is useless to me). Thanks, looks like some other long handled tools too!
> 
> ...


That is really nice to see all the handle length options. I have never really found myself wanting for longer handles but I am just over 6' ... and have really long arms ... and have really short legs , guess that explains it. With a peavey, a longer handle is going to add some considerable weight, but the good ones aren't exactly "feather light" anyways. With the others, a bit of extra length might come in handy and probably won't have much for drawbacks.


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## Wellrounded (Sep 25, 2011)

We consider anything over 12" large LOL, I'd kill for 24" logs cowboyhermit. Our bush is all regrowth from the '48 fire, not long enough to grow anything larger in our climate. I can get some mighty fine F17 beams/joists out of a 12" log (No idea if you guys use the same stress grading we do? F17 is well aged hardwood with zero or very few knots?) I think the slow grow time might give us more strength per foot? 
I drawl when I see the tools you guys can get , our cant hook is home made, all the better really but other logging supplies ROFL, nah not going to happen. On my list of 'Please may I have one" is a timber mill, just to be able to break down a small log to something I could stack and dry would be heaven. 
Timber (lumber?) is so precious here that anything well cured has moved with me with me when I've bought a new place. I still have about 2 ton of redgum, all cut from one tree. It's on the fourth house now, used it for everything form bench tops to skirting boards in the past. Going to be the bench tops for my new and very large kitchen, as well as door steps and lintels (short spans as redgum is not a good tension timber).


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## billybob (Mar 4, 2015)

Try Forestry Suppliers. Actual forest management grad here and worked in the industry a few years before I found a job that pays decent...LOL. Make sure you have a spare chain and sharpener handy at all times and an extra bar for your chainsaw too. I've cut and split more wood in my lifetime than I cared to and after being cut once with a chainsaw I cannot stress safety enough. Logs and saws are unforgiving, always err on the side of caution.


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## PreparedRifleman73 (Nov 2, 2012)

First of all,

THANK YOU!
You guys are a wealth of knowledge but more importantly you each have the heart of a teacher in helping a young guy get started. You're all more than welcome to come sit by my campfire up here in Minnesota! I just won a Bushmaster AR-15 A3 that we need to break in - I'm sure none of you would enjoy that!



billybob said:


> Try Forestry Suppliers. Actual forest management grad here and worked in the industry a few years before I found a job that pays decent...LOL. Make sure you have a spare chain and sharpener handy at all times and an extra bar for your chainsaw too. I've cut and split more wood in my lifetime than I cared to and after being cut once with a chainsaw I cannot stress safety enough. Logs and saws are unforgiving, always err on the side of caution.


I used to work on an ambulance - I've seen plenty of legs (and a chest) cut open by a chainsaw. As such, I use these:


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## cowboyhermit (Nov 10, 2012)

Wellrounded said:


> We consider anything over 12" large LOL, I'd kill for 24" logs cowboyhermit. Our bush is all regrowth from the '48 fire, not long enough to grow anything larger in our climate. I can get some mighty fine F17 beams/joists out of a 12" log (No idea if you guys use the same stress grading we do? F17 is well aged hardwood with zero or very few knots?) I think the slow grow time might give us more strength per foot?
> I drawl when I see the tools you guys can get , our cant hook is home made, all the better really but other logging supplies ROFL, nah not going to happen. On my list of 'Please may I have one" is a timber mill, just to be able to break down a small log to something I could stack and dry would be heaven.
> Timber (lumber?) is so precious here that anything well cured has moved with me with me when I've bought a new place. I still have about 2 ton of redgum, all cut from one tree. It's on the fourth house now, used it for everything form bench tops to skirting boards in the past. Going to be the bench tops for my new and very large kitchen, as well as door steps and lintels (short spans as redgum is not a good tension timber).


Slow growth should definitely give you stronger wood (within a given species). We are pretty much in the same boat as to size of lumber right here, over 12" for most trees is "big". Planted trees like elm and pine are common in bigger sizes though, and balsam poplar but they are pretty soft.

The birch I mentioned were "rescued" from the cat (bulldozer), I just couldn't stand to see them go. Perfectly clear, huge (for here at least) straight logs being pushed on a pile to burn. Every year in just this county I see thousands of acres of "bush" being dozed onto piles to burn, mostly aspen poplar but also birch and others. Just across the river it is the same but with mostly spruce and pine. It is slowing down now that the price of cattle has skyrocketed, because most of it was to make grain farming feasible.

Raw wood is almost worthless to landowners in this area, almost nobody will pay a dime for it. Bucked up firewood like birch is worth a few dollars, same for aspen if anybody wants it, but other than that it mostly gets piled and burned


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## ZoomZoom (Dec 18, 2009)

When you get the chaps, don't forget your helmet!


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## ZoomZoom (Dec 18, 2009)

Since we're throwing out stores, I'll add the one I use.

http://www.shopcomstocklogging.com/Log-Handling_c_130.html

They have kick-ass pricing on chainsaw chains _which is mainly what I've bought from them._


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## Viking (Mar 16, 2009)

ZoomZoom said:


> Since we're throwing out stores, I'll add the one I use.
> 
> http://www.shopcomstocklogging.com/Log-Handling_c_130.html
> 
> They have kick-ass pricing on chainsaw chains _which is mainly what I've bought from them._


Me too! www.traditionalwoodworker.com they have a lot of hard to find high quality wood working tools, bought my three foot crosscut saw from them, It's always carried in our Samurai.


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## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

The two *worst* chainsaw injuries I have ever suffered - were from a sharp chain when the saw _wasn't even running! _

One thumb laceration (I now handle chains with leather gloves 100% from then on) and one from hitting the tip of the bar with my knee as I walked past where the saw was sitting. That was a huge surprise - the laceration on my knee went through all the layers of skin - just from walking into the tip of the bar. Both of these injuries bled like crazy.

A sharp chain is just as dangerous as a scalpel, and will cut skin EASILY just while sitting still!


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## zombieresponder (Aug 20, 2012)

ZoomZoom said:


> When you get the chaps, don't forget your helmet!


Stihl(and husky too) offer a "kit" that comes with chaps and a helmet. My wife bought the Stihl kit. The chaps are machine washable(most others I looked at were not). The muffs on the helmet are decent. I normally leave the visor/face protector thing off, but sometimes it's nice and helps keep saw chips/debris from coming back in my face.


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## zombieresponder (Aug 20, 2012)

Viking said:


> Me too! www.traditionalwoodworker.com they have a lot of hard to find high quality wood working tools, bought my three foot crosscut saw from them, It's always carried in our Samurai.


I don't see the tools to put the proper set in the teeth on their site. Am I missing it somewhere? We have several of the old large handsaws around here that I'd like to put back into serviceable condition.


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## crabapple (Jan 1, 2012)

I used chain saw though High school for home heat & as a landscaper in my twenties. Never had more then a nick when sharpening the chain.
But I was taught that a chainsaw was a demon that would eat you the first time you lost your focus. Never cut a tree, without clearing vines & small growth from around it. Look up to see which way the tree wants to fall & which way is clear of limbs, tree tops, vines.Then decide where to cut "V" to fall the tree.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/know-how_Chainsaws_how-to-fell-a-tree-using-a-chainsaw

My Father taught me how to do this in the woods, when I was in middle school. Now I can find the same skill out lined on the net, it is good to hear someone say I was doing it right, but having all my fingers & toes with no chainsaw scars is good too.


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## Jason (Jul 25, 2009)

I'm all for PPE, but chainsaw helmets are one thing I don't like. The mesh facepiece always fills up with sawdust and drives me nuts.

I agree with Biobacon's recommendation of MMM's chainsaw book. My *signed copy *has taught me a lot and it's very easy to follow, just like all of Sue and Steve's books.

Stay safe and have fun!


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## labotomi (Feb 14, 2010)

Jason said:


> I'm all for PPE, but chainsaw helmets are one thing I don't like. The mesh facepiece always fills up with sawdust and drives me nuts.
> 
> I agree with Biobacon's recommendation of MMM's chainsaw book. My *signed copy *has taught me a lot and it's very easy to follow, just like all of Sue and Steve's books.
> 
> Stay safe and have fun!


Most PPE is not pleasant nor convenient but I've seen enough injuries to realize that it's much more inconvenient to deal with the loss of an eye, hand, hearing, etc, than to deal with cleaning that mesh.

I know many who wish they'd had on PPE. I don't know anyone that has ever said they wish they hadn't been wearing their PPE.


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## Jason (Jul 25, 2009)

Agreed. I mostly cut down trees so I really don't need a hard hat. Safety glasses are a must, as I only have 2 eyes. I don't wear ear plugs as much as I should though. It only takes a second to suffer a life changing injury.


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## Jason (Jul 25, 2009)

To clarify, I mostly cut downed trees that have already fallen or been pushed over.


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## labotomi (Feb 14, 2010)

Jason said:


> Agreed. I mostly cut down trees so I really don't need a hard hat. Safety glasses are a must, as I only have 2 eyes. I don't wear ear plugs as much as I should though. It only takes a second to suffer a life changing injury.


Not trying to be a jerk. PPE is one of my pet peeves. I tell people in my dept to take PPE home if they need it.


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## Jason (Jul 25, 2009)

I understand. Not taking you as a jerk at all. They are the same way with Ppe where I work. I never wore steel toes, gloves, or safety glasses on the farm until I got involved with the safety culture of my current job. You did not come off as a jerk and I hope I didn't either.


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## zombieresponder (Aug 20, 2012)

Jason said:


> To clarify, I mostly cut downed trees that have already fallen or been pushed over.


My uncle has a pretty nasty scar on one knee from bucking a downed tree. The wrong part of the bar nose touched something and kicked back on him. The same can happen with the saw jerking up towards your head. I've had a couple of close calls with exactly that. Could have ended badly if I didn't keep my body parts out of the line of fire, so to speak.

I'm trying to break the habit of running small/mid size saws without my chaps. Also trying to get in the habit of setting the brake(on saws that have them) anytime I put the saw down or have to move around. I always wear the hardhat since my muffs are attached to it. The visor takes less than 30 seconds to pop on or off.


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## Jason (Jul 25, 2009)

I've had some close calls too. Matter of fact I've put myself in the ER twice cutting wood. Once I stepped on a nail in a fence row and the other time I smashed off the end of my left pinkie throwing a big pine log into my truck. And I was wearing mechanic's gloves when that happened. All that was holding it on was skin but they managed to get it reattached. Long and short is PPE is definitely of the utmost importance, just like common sense and patience. 

Kickback and logs shifting are huge safety concerns as well, and I'm happy they were brought up. Great discussion!


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## cowboyhermit (Nov 10, 2012)

Well, since PPE has been brought up, I have to say I have a mixed relationship with it. One of the big problems I have seen is that with people starting out with all the modern gear, especially at a young age but not only then, is that it gives them a sense of invincibility and can prevent them from learning the proper *care and respect *for *inherently dangerous* tools and activities. Sort of like what happened in hockey.

I have had my share of injuries over the years, almost all of them were due to either knowingly doing something where I knew I was likely to get hurt because I figured it was worth it, OR working with someone who was *careless*. A lot of the people I have known who were all about the rules and equipment act like as long as they do that, no more thinking is involved.

I have never had a serious injury with a chainsaw myself, after all these years, but I started with almost no PPE. So I learned to never ever put yourself in a situation where the saw could get out of control, to think about where the saw is going to go if it somehow did, to treat the blade like it is trying to cut you, etc. etc. Of course I always wore a long sleeve shirt, jeans, and leather boots, but that was about it for many years.

So, when I hear young people who have only been cutting for a few years tell me (and show me) how many times their chaps or chainsaw boots have saved them from an injury it makes my stomach turn a little. If I haven't in decades ... what exactly _are_ they doing, plus they seem to take forever to get anything done, but I digress. With a modern saw with automatic brake, anti kickback chain, etc it seems like it can only be carelessness.

Most of the "safety" stuff just makes sense when dealing with trees and saws, gloves, boots, even chainsaw pants. And the rest can definitely save you from a nasty injury, however all the equipment in the world is no substitute for attentiveness. Probably the "piece" of safety equipment I have these days is a WIDE no-go zone around idiots, because a hardhat is nice but if say, a tree falls on you ... it is still going to hurt.


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## labotomi (Feb 14, 2010)

cowboyhermit said:


> Well, since PPE has been brought up, I have to say I have a mixed relationship with it. One of the big problems I have seen is that with people starting out with all the modern gear, especially at a young age but not only then, is that it gives them a sense of invincibility and can prevent them from learning the proper *care and respect *for *inherently dangerous* tools and activities. Sort of like what happened in hockey.
> 
> I have had my share of injuries over the years, almost all of them were due to either knowingly doing something where I knew I was likely to get hurt because I figured it was worth it, OR working with someone who was *careless*. A lot of the people I have known who were all about the rules and equipment act like as long as they do that, no more thinking is involved.
> 
> ...


PPE is intended to be the last line of defense if other things go wrong. Engineering controls (brake, anti kickback) are the first, procedural (maintain control, clearance) are the second. If people don't understand that, they will rely on the PPE as the first line and always be more at risk.


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## Cotton (Oct 12, 2013)

labotomi said:


> PPE is intended to be the last line of defense if other things go wrong. Engineering controls (brake, anti kickback) are the first, procedural (maintain control, clearance) are the second. If people don't understand that, they will rely on the PPE as the first line and always be more at risk.


PPE for folks without experience is a very good thing. My family, men farmed, logged or mined coal. My first big paying job was one summer when I was 14 and for the next 4 years. I worked for a cousin's logging operation. Don't quote me (been a few decades) I used a Husqvarna 90. A big heavy saw with a long bar, no safety equipment.

My job was trimming and topping behind a old guy who was a master, done it all his life, could walk into a thick stand of timber and never hang a tree. I learned a lot from that man, especially about safety.

Simple safety rules&#8230; Never cross your feet, never cross your hands and&#8230; Saws kick back. Never be standing where a saw will kick back too! It's predictable! Understand gravity, know where a tree or limb is going to move before you start cutting. Most importantly, have a clear path to run before felling a tree, know where you are going to step if thing go wrong! 

One last thing... F* the saw. I know a couple of folks who lost their lives trying to save the saw when things went wrong. Get out of there, save the saw afterwards!


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## cowboyhermit (Nov 10, 2012)

labotomi said:


> ... If people don't understand that, they will rely on the PPE as the first line and always be more at risk.


That's pretty much what I was saying, I just used more words... been doing way too much paperwork.



Cotton said:


> One last thing... F* the saw. I know a couple of folks who lost their lives trying to save the saw when things went wrong. Get out of there, save the saw afterwards!


Yup, it's just a tool but that urge is a tough one.


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## Tirediron (Jul 12, 2010)

I like how the PPE discussion has evolved, but it is becoming more of what labotomi (I never thought I would agree with labotomi) mention and is used as a first line/ excuse for sleeping through the orientation. 

the scariest things in chainsaw myth are the idea that a short bar is safer than a long bar and the stupid inclusion of grip material on the top bar outside of the chainbrake trip zone. Ever notice that you can't get a left handed saw, think about that in this safety first world, hold a saw with your left hand on the throttle grip and start a list of things that could get covered in blood if you actually tried to run it.


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## mosquitomountainman (Jan 25, 2010)

I love the helmet with the ear muffs and screen. Lot's cooler to work in and it doesn't fog up like safety glasses. I like the chaps too. Mine were a gift and the previous owner got a little careless a couple of times. They are hot but they do keep my jeans cleaner which is a big plus when you do laundry by hand. I also wear them when running the weed-eater/string trimmer to keeps my clothes cleaner.


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## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

cowboyhermit said:


> So, when I hear young people who ...show me how many times their chaps or chainsaw boots have saved them from an injury it makes my stomach turn a little. .


Only story I have like that with PPE is set of polycarbonate glasses where a "free" valve keeper flew up from a set of racing heads I was disassembling. The valve springs on those heads were set about 250-300 pounds on the seat, (w/about 650-700 pounds open pressure - valve lift was around .700" or so). The spring compressor came off the spring.

I would have lost my right eye for sure. That was like a .22 short getting shot at my eye.



Cotton said:


> One last thing... F* the saw. I know a couple of folks who lost their lives trying to save the saw when things went wrong. Get out of there, save the saw afterwards!


I have a couple "homeowner" saws I keep around for those "bad" situations where you can't be sure exactly what will happen (usually trimming at altitude). If a $150 saw bites the dust, oh well.


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## crabapple (Jan 1, 2012)

I went to a wedding yesterday, afterwards I was talking to some friends about this thread & someone said.
After a storm up rooted a large tree, the man was cutting the trunk up, the wife came out to look in the big hole at the stump.
The man did not know she was at the roots near the hole, as he cut the trunk shorter the stump, roots & all sit up in the whole trapping & killing the wife.


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## Jason (Jul 25, 2009)

Good lord, Crabapple. That's horrible. Yikes.


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## PreparedRifleman73 (Nov 2, 2012)

FYI everyone. I ended up getting "woodchuck" brand tools (log jack and pickeroon). However, peavey has awesome tall people wooden tool handles and I've ordered a ton! Where I would get a sore lower back 5 minutes into shoveling, I no longer do at all!


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