# stocking seeds



## CrackbottomLouis (May 20, 2012)

So, I understand that only nonhybrid seeds will breed true. This makes them more desirable so that you can continue to gain new seed for the next years crop. I also happen to prefer nice heirloom vegetables as usually the flavor is great and I like the idea of natural foods. My question is do you also stock hybrid seeds? It seems to me that having a certain portion of seed stock that is designed to produce a greater yield and be resistant to certain diseases, fungus or adverse conditions would be a good idea purely as a way to augment nonhybrid crops in case of a bad year or disease with a portion of farmable land. Does anyone do this? Should I consider adding some hybrid seeds to my preps?


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## sofasurfer (Aug 5, 2012)

There are 3 types of seeds. Heritage, hybrid and GMO. Heritage are the best and will produce the same plant every time. Hybrid are genetically mixed plants which produce seeds but may not always produce plants of the same quality or variety. GMO seeds will not reproduce and are genetically mixed with OTHER SPECIES. A plant may have a gene from a fish or a cow or whatever, in order to produce an unnatural characteristic such as tolerance to cold or tolerance to insecticides, etc. 
Google all three.


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## jeff47041 (Jan 5, 2013)

I don't know if I'm right or wrong, but I save both.

I buy extra heirloom seed and extra hybrid seed every year. I use my food saver to suck the air out and seal them up.

I keep the heirloom and hybrids in separate sealed bags and write the year on them. This coming spring will be my 5th year doing this. My plan is to plant some of these 5 year old seeds to see if I'm doing myself any favors by saving them.


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## Wellrounded (Sep 25, 2011)

I don't see any advantage at all in growing hybrid varieties. Horticulturalists have been breeding for vigor, disease resistance and much more for a long, long time. I find well trusted heirlooms much more reliable. 
The way vegetable seed is described is very misleading. If you want to breed true to type you need to understand how individual species cross, buy a good book and do some research. (Seed to seed by Suzanne Ashworth is a great place to start).
Having heirlooms does not mean you will be maintaining that variety true to type.


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## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

If you save different types, make sure you plant a far enough distance to avoid cross-pollination with plants you don't want messin' with your Heirlooms!!!!

Some seeds won't germinate past a couple of years:
http://www.hort.purdue.edu/ext/storingseed09.html

Storing Leftover Garden Seed 


> If you didn't use up all of the garden seed you bought this year, much of it can be stored for use in next year's garden, depending on the plant species. Seeds of some plants, such as corn, parsley, onion, viola (pansies), verbena, phlox and salvia, are not very long lived, lasting only 1 or 2 years at best. Other seeds, including beans, carrots lettuce, peas, radishes, snapdragon, cosmos, sweet William and zinnia will remain viable (capable of germinating) for 3-5 years.
> 
> Seeds need to be kept cool, dark and dry so that they retain stored carbohydrates and minimize fungal infection. You can keep the seeds in their original packets to preserve their labeling information. If you transfer the seeds to another container, be sure to label them with at least the plant name and the year the seed was purchased. Either way, be sure the seed is as dry as possible before placing in storage.
> 
> ...


Vegetables*

Bean 3 
Carrot 4 
Corn, Sweet 3 
Cucumber 5 
Kohlrabi 3 
Lettuce 6 
Muskmelon 5 
Okra 2 
Onion 1 
Parsnip 1 
Pea 3 
Pepper 2 
Pumpkin 4 
Radish 5 
Spinach 3 
Squash 4 
Tomato 4 
Turnip 4 
Watermelon 4

http://www.hillgardens.com/seed_longevity.htm

Longevity of seeds in ideal storage
(Information contained in the below list, while presumed reasonably accurate, is a compilation of my own experience and published industry-wide "guestimates", and is offered here in the public interest at no charge and with no warranty stated or implied.)

Note: Time in terms of years can vary widely depending on individual storage conditions. Virtually everyone will have a different experience. Some seeds can last for decades...perhaps even centuries...IF storage conditions are absolutely perfect. Few gardeners have the ability-or the desire-to sustain those perfect conditions for long. Please read the article: Giving Seeds What They Need In Storage

VEGETABLES
Seed Type Years Seed Type Years
Asparagus 3-4 Mustard 5-8
Beans 3-6 New Zealand Spinach 4-5
Beets 3-4 Okra 1-2
Broccoli 4-5 Onions 2-4
Brussels Sprouts 4-5 Parsley 3-5
Cabbage 4-5 Parsnips 1-3
Cantaloupe 6-10 Peas 4-6
Carrots 3-5 Peppers (all) 3-5
Cauliflower 4-5 Potatoes (real seed) 5-7
Celeriac 4-5 Pumpkins 3-5
Celery 3-5 Radish 3-5
Chicory 4-5 Rutabaga 3-5
Collards 4-5 Salsify 3-4
Corn 4-6 Scorzonera 3-4
Cucumbers 5-7 Spinach 3-4
Eggplants 3-5 Squash (all) 3-5
Escarole/Endive 3-4 Strawberry 3-6
Kale 4-5 Sunflower 4-6
Kohlrabi 4-5 Swiss Chard 3-4
Leeks 2-4 Tomato 4-7
Lettuce 3-4 Turnip 5-8
Watermelon 4-6


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## boomer (Jul 13, 2011)

Most seed will actually store considerably longer but the germination rate goes down. I generally find that only the parsley and the parsnip really need to be fresh seed.

Keeping the isolation required to seed save heirloom seed is nearly impossible unless one is vigilant about cross pollination. It only takes one year for all the seed to be hybrid if varieties that will cross breed are planted withing about three miles of one another.


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## Wellrounded (Sep 25, 2011)

boomer said:


> Most seed will actually store considerably longer but the germination rate goes down. I generally find that only the parsley and the parsnip really need to be fresh seed.
> 
> Keeping the isolation required to seed save heirloom seed is nearly impossible unless one is vigilant about cross pollination. It only takes one year for all the seed to be hybrid if varieties that will cross breed are planted withing about three miles of one another.


Although I agree that some plants can be difficult to isolate it's not at all difficult if you understand each group. I use many different methods, caging, bagging, time isolation, taping, etc etc.


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## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

I use time isolation only.... I don't have time for all the little bags. I just hope others keep far enough away from me.


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## siletz (Aug 23, 2011)

As a general rule, I don't see much value in hybrid seeds as they are not as sustainable. But, if you have certain varieties of something that you just love that's a hybrid, you could store extra in the fridge or freezer in an air tight container. They will last a long time this way. Just be sure to bring it to room temp before opening so as to not cause condensation on the seeds. Personally, I put my energy into finding varieties that do well for me and save the seeds from them. That way each year I'm selecting seeds for my needs and find varieties that work well for me. I second the suggestion of the book Seed to Seed. No seed saver should be without it.


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## Wellrounded (Sep 25, 2011)

LincTex said:


> I use time isolation only.... I don't have time for all the little bags. I just hope others keep far enough away from me.


Me too mostly , I use other methods if I really need to.
It's getting hard and pretty expensive to get some seed here in Australia. 
I do tape pumpkins, squash and cucumbers though. Only takes me a few minutes to pollinate and tape and I only do it every few years for each variety I grow. 
I'm really lucky with distance, no vegies for miles, with the exception of canola, 6 weeks of every year I'm surrounded by it


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## crabapple (Jan 1, 2012)

GMO's have not been proving to be good or bad as of yet.
I have no problem with hybrids.
I have some open pollen seed from over 60 years ago.
As for isolation, time ,bags or distances, you only need to isolate the seeds that are to be saved. All other can mix, as they will be eaten, Cooked & eaten.
Open pollen seeds are a hybrid too, just not in a high speed hybrid breeding program.
No seed less then 200 years old can be anything less then a hybrid of natural selection, that why they breed true.
It will happen again if TSHTF over the years of saving seeds & most of the time it will be a good thing.
Vacuum packed seed saving is good, seeds will last 10 years in a freezer. What if the power goes out?
Then plant the seeds & save the next Generation. If you are in a group with more then one garden, then isolate different plant seeds & trade. Okra should be 150 feet between varieties.


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