# cockleburs



## lazydaisy67

Not sure how to spell this correctly but my question is how do I get rid of them? We had a pasture FULL of these buggers this year and they have got to be the world's worst weed!!! The poor horses have them in their tails, manes and are stuck to their sides. We didn't recognize the plant in the early spring and summer. Knew they were all over the place, but the goats LOVED them and so we didn't spray them at all. By the time they got their spike and burs we were kicking ourselves for not spraying the crap out of them. So now we have to plan an all out war on them for next year because aside from them ruining the pasture and bugging the horses, we could possibly even get a fine if we don't keep them under control. 

Would you suggest 24D and a weed wacker? We do need grass to grow there or we'd hit them with Roundup.


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## camo2460

Aren't they wonderful? I think that the only thing worse are ticks and chiggers. I don't know how big your pasture is but it might be worth it to spot treat rather than spray the whole field. Also try using a strong saline solution on the plants rather than herbicide to avoid harm to your stock. Good luck on your efforts, once these buggers takes a hold it's hard to get rid of them


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## Cotton

Cocklebur - Xanthium strumarium. I’d not recommend poisoning all your soil with roundup… Many good nitrogen fixers are broad leaved, especially mints, many of which are medicinal. 

It takes lots of sweat. The seeds remain viable for years. Without chemicals it just takes work… lots of it. They are a bit sneaky. If you get August rain they will grow and reproduce behind your back, stay vigilant! They will produce seed when 6 inches tall or 3 feet. You can get rid of them manually, it’ll take a few years.

Also, they need disturbed soils. Did you plow and sow grass seed this year? Hooves will churn up enough soil also.


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## weedygarden

Do you have a County Extension Office where you might ask for advice? 

I don't know how to get rid of them, but it seems they are seed pods that are hitchhikers. They grab on to animals and clothing so they can spread to new areas. My guess is that the more you have, the more you will get, unless you find a way to get rid of them. 

I don't normally poison weeds, but this might be one of those weeds that you want to spray. I remember having them in one of our pastures when I was a kid. I hated them.

We have a burr we call goat's head and they are similar. When we walked in one of our parks a couple years ago, we found a huge, dense patch of them. We took some time and did our best to clean them up. We threw as many as we could in the trash. They still grow there and we have not been diligent to eradicate them.

I have no idea how large your pasture is, but I wonder if gathering the weeds and burning them would help? 

I used to have a weed called mallow. It is actually edible, but it was in my lawn and it really took over. I worked diligently for a couple years and have largely eradicated it from my lawn. Over the years I have had other weeds that sneak their way in one year and take over the next that I have to get on.


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## weedygarden

http://extension.psu.edu/pests/weeds/weed-id/common-cocklebur



> *Common Cocklebur*
> 
> Common cocklebur (Xanthium pennsylvanicum) is a highly branched, taprooted, broadleaved annual that grows from 8 inches to 6 feet (0.2 to 2m) high.
> 
> *Seedling Description*
> 
> In common cocklebur, the stem below the seed leaves is stout, purple at the base, and green on the upper portion. The seed leaves are about 1½ inches (4 cm) long and ¼ inch (6 mm) wide. They are thick and tapered to a dull point. Upper surfaces of the leaves are darker than lower surfaces. Midveins are visible on the upper surfaces as light-green lines and on the lower surfaces as ridges. Lateral veins are visible on the lower surfaces as parallel, light-green lines. Leaf stalks (petioles) are short and broad.
> 
> *Common Cocklebur - Seedling*
> 
> 1. An annual, cocklebur emerges only from seed.
> 2. Plants are most easily controlled when small.
> 
> The first two true leaves are opposite each other, egg shaped, and slightly toothed; subsequent leaves alternate up the stem and are distinctly toothed. Newly emerging leaves are erect and flat, and both surfaces have a dense covering of hair. The upper surfaces of true leaves are darker than the lower surfaces. Veins are evident on both leaf surfaces. The stem is stout, green with maroon flecks, and roughened with a dense covering of stiff, short hairs.
> 
> *Biology*
> 
> Common cocklebur is a highly branched, taprooted, broadleaved annual that grows from 8 inches to 6 feet (0.2 to 2m) high. The dull green leaves alternate along the stem, are coarsely toothed, and often have three to five shallow lobes. The leaf stalks are about as long as the leaves.
> 
> Common Cocklebur - Leaves, Burs and Mature Plant
> 
> 3. Leaves have 3 midveins. Female flowers grow in leaf axils.
> 4. Mature plants compete with crops.
> 5. The hard dried burs are easily dislodged.
> 
> The flower heads of common cocklebur are unisexual. Small male and female flowers form separate clusters. Male (staminate) flowers are in short terminal spikes or clusters, and the burlike female (pistillate) flowers are in axillary clusters. The distinct seed pods, or burs of cocklebur make the weed easy to identify. Burs are light brown, Y2 to 1 inch (1 to 2.5 cm) long, and oval or oblong. They are covered with stout, hooked prickles, which terminate in two hooked spines. Each prickle is 1/10 to ¼ inch (2 to 6 mm) long.
> 
> Each bur contains two brown to black achenes (seeds), one above the other. The lower seed can germinate immediately; the upper seed is dormant and does not germinate until months or often years later. Seeds are about ½ inch (12 to 14 mm) long and 1/5 (4.5 to 5 mm) wide. Mature burs are dispersed primarily by humans and animals.
> 
> Seeds germinate from early spring through summer, from depths of up to 6 inches (15 cm). Seeds and small seedlings are toxic to humans and livestock, but toxicity decreases rapidly as the first true leaves develop. Regardless of size, common cocklebur flowers from August through October in response to day length.
> 
> *Similar Species*
> 
> There are a number of related cocklebur species, many of them local variants of Xanthium strumarium. While these species are difficult to distinguish from one another in the seedling stage, they are relatively easy to tell apart in bur stage. A mature bur must be present to identify the various species.
> 
> Jimsonweed seedlings also resemble cocklebur. One way to tell the two apart is that jimsonweed stems and leaves are smooth and have a single midvein on the true leaves, while cocklebur has three midveins originating from the leaf base where the stalk joins the leaf.
> 
> *Natural History*
> 
> German colonists who settled in Pennsylvania introduced cocklebur to the northeastern United States. The weed is native to Eurasia, Central America, and the Mississippi Valley. It now grows in Mexico, where it is one of the most troublesome broadleaved weeds, as well as in southern Canada and throughout most of the United States.
> 
> Cockleburs are members of the Composite family. The spiny burs aid in dispersal of the species and make the weed difficult to control. Common cocklebur is found along roadsides; in cultivated fields, bottom lands, and waste places; and on abandoned land, poor pastures, and vacant lots. It is very competitive in many crops, especially in soybeans, because of similarities in emergence time and growth habit.
> 
> Common cocklebur is also known as clotbur, sheepbur, ditchbur, burweed, and hedgehog.
> 
> Xanthium is the botanical name for cockleburs. One theory suggests the name was chosen by an eighteenth century French botanist, in honor of Xanthus, the ancient capital of Lycia. The modem explanation is that Xanthium derives from the Greek word, Xanthos, meaning "yellow," since cockleburs have a thick yellow sap. Cocklebur sap was used in Greece for centuries as a hair dye. The leaves, seeds, and roots of some cocklebur species were once used as medicine to purify blood and to counteract hydrophobia (fear of water).
> 
> *Control*
> 
> Complete control of common cocklebur is often difficult because some of the seeds remain dormant in the soil for months or even years. Early-season control is important because cocklebur grows rapidly and, once established, can be a long-term problem.
> 
> The most effective control measure is to prevent seed production. Cultivation practices and herbicide applications can also be effective. No single herbicide gives good full-season control; therefore, both preemergence and postemergence herbicide applications are necessary.
> 
> For most effective postemergence control, cocklebur must be shorter than 8 inches (20 cm) at time of treatment, and herbicides must be applied under good growing conditions.
> 
> For specific recommendations, contact your county extension agent or the most recent Weed Control Manual and Herbicide Guide, available through Meister Publishing Company, 37841 Euclid Avenue, Willoughby, Ohio 44094. Follow label instructions for all herbicides and observe restrictions on grazing and harvesting procedures.
> 
> Prepared by Betsy Ann Wertz, agricultural writer, and W. Thomas Lanini, Extension weed specialist.
> 
> Weed Identification 25


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## *Andi

In my area we call it burdock ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burdock ) and I agree with "The most effective control measure is to prevent seed production"... We was having the same problem with yellow dock. The best way we have found to control it is mow it down several times a year. This will be our third year but we now have the upper hand with it.

As for the horses we have used baby oil and a "pick comb" or any large tooth comb. (remember a little oil goes a long way) It does take some time, if they in rather tight they may need to be trimmed out.

Best of luck.


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## OldCootHillbilly

Round these here parts fellers ride round on a ATV with a sprayer an spot spray em. Now that yall know what they look like from the get go, ya should be able ta get the upper hand on em. Sucks havin ta use chemicals, but ifin ya really wanna get rid a em without spendin a really long time doin it by hand, gonna be onea the top choices. Least with spot sprayin ya ain't douchin everthin.

Quit lettin the goats eat it, there just spreadin em round fer ya!


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## bbrider

We have had good luck with "Crossbow". It will kill most of the weeds but not the grass. It works on scotch broom, black berries, etc. The directions explain how to use it in areas that contain livestock.


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## ONEOLDCHIEF

I had a whole bunch of smart comments, but will not use them because I grew up with these demonic weeds... It will take you years to get rid of them. They can stay dormant for seven years... Our family farm became infested because of farmers that did not use chemicals. 
2-4-D does work, but is it still available? Try your best to spot spray, will take more time, but will cost a lot less, unless it is impractical (you just have that many)... 

If you plan on trying to pull them by hand, do it before they get over a foot tall, after that, it will take a backhoe to pull them out.

ps: good luck


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## Quills

lazydaisy67 said:


> Not sure how to spell this correctly but my question is how do I get rid of them?


Nothing less than napalm, in my experience


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## cowboyhermit

We have struggled a bit with burdock (what Andi posted), nasty bugger but at least edible unlike some of the similar plants. 
If you want to avoid chemicals then mowing will keep things in check, also consider overseeding a variety into your pasture and watching your rotations, a healthy area is much more resistant to weeds. You can also consider vinegar or commercial acetic acid for spot spraying. One of my favorite weed control methods is a torch though burn that sucker off at the dirt a couple times in the year (assuming safe conditions), overseed with something tough if necessary and problems are usually gone. Plus you get the satisfaction of watching the tansy/burdock/evil invader wither and die before your eyes


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## OldCootHillbilly

Love a good weedburner!


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## Marcus

We used to mow them for control. As cowboyhermit mentioned, good areas have less weeds. One way to do that is by having your soil tested to see if it has any deficiencies. We used to fertilize the front pasture (~10 acres of coastal bermuda) with nitrogen pellets (~ 2 tons) in the spring. Clover is also an option for fixing Nitrogen in the soil and is good for livestock.

It could be worse: You could have Mesquite or Kudzu.


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## Davarm

cowboyhermit had a good choice, vinegar. Around here you can get it 20%, that will wither them right down to the ground.

My second choice would be to find a few kids to keep them cut or mow the field short until they die.

"I" wouldn't use 2,4-D, some brands contain "Dioxins" depending on the manufacturing method. I've had too many problems with neighbors using the stuff and getting it on my garden and fruit trees so I kinda have an attitude against it.

Like was said above, if all else fails, BURN IT!

Good Luck.


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## Cotton

Just for clarification, 3 very different plant species.
1) Xanthium sp - Cocklebur, nasty.
2) Arctium sp - Burdock, edible and medicinal.
3) Rumex sp - Dock, very edible and medicinal. 

Burdock - Arctium minus, Arctium lappa, Asteraceae, a thistle, a very good write up on edibility.
http://www.foragingtexas.com/2007/11/burdock.html

A very different plant with great benefits, very high in iron. It was a favorite winter/early spring food of pioneers. Rumex sp. specifically Curly Dock (Yellow) Rumex crispus. Very tasty... Curly dock is a great munchy.

Might have to boil twice to get rid of some of the bitterness of some species. Don't even try bloody dock (lots of red in the leaves).

*Andi
We was having the same problem with yellow dock....

cowboyhermit
We have struggled a bit with burdock (what Andi posted), nasty bugger but at least edible unlike some of the similar plants.

Weed Walk with Susun Weed - http://botanical.com/site/column_susun/susun_weedwalk.html
Dock, also called yellow dock, curly dock, and broad dock is a perennial plant, which my Native American grandmothers use for "all women's problems". I dig the yellow roots of Rumex crispus or R. obtusifolius and tincture them; I also harvest the leaves and/or seeds throughout the growing season to increase blood-levels of iron, reduce menstrual flooding and cramping, and correct hormone levels.


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## *Andi

Cotton said:


> Just for clarification, 3 very different plant species.
> 1) Xanthium sp - Cocklebur, nasty.
> 2) Arctium sp - Burdock, edible and medicinal.
> 3) Rumex sp - Dock, very edible and medicinal.
> 
> Burdock - Arctium minus, Arctium lappa, Asteraceae, a thistle, a very good write up on edibility.
> http://www.foragingtexas.com/2007/11/burdock.html
> 
> A very different plant with great benefits, very high in iron. It was a favorite winter/early spring food of pioneers. Rumex sp. specifically Curly Dock (Yellow) Rumex crispus. Very tasty... Curly dock is a great munchy.
> 
> Might have to boil twice to get rid of some of the bitterness of some species. Don't even try bloody dock (lots of red in the leaves).
> 
> *Andi
> We was having the same problem with yellow dock....
> 
> cowboyhermit
> We have struggled a bit with burdock (what Andi posted), nasty bugger but at least edible unlike some of the similar plants.
> 
> Weed Walk with Susun Weed - http://botanical.com/site/column_susun/susun_weedwalk.html
> Dock, also called yellow dock, curly dock, and broad dock is a perennial plant, which my Native American grandmothers use for "all women's problems". I dig the yellow roots of Rumex crispus or R. obtusifolius and tincture them; I also harvest the leaves and/or seeds throughout the growing season to increase blood-levels of iron, reduce menstrual flooding and cramping, and correct hormone levels.


True (and I agree) ... but who needs 5 acres of any of them?

Yellow dock is a nice herb but it was wanting to take over the barn pasture. The critters will not have it and I use other herbs in it place. 

I used Burdock & Yellow dock because we had problems with them wanting to "take over" the pasture. The problem in the OP's question... and how I handled that (my) problem.

I was talking more of invasive species rather than a few nice herbs to have around the farm.

Don't get me wrong ... I love my herbs but anything over a few plants (where you put them) and you can have a problem.


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## Cotton

Agreed, some plants you don’t eradicate, you only control them. My grandfather cleared a field with and ax and a mule during ww2, 17 acres. Corn and cotton seed he bought contained Cocklebur. It’s been 70 years and we are still “controlling” them!


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## cowboyhermit

We have irradicated quite a few weeds from our place but it is TOUGH, most of them were brought to the area as ornamental or medicinal plants so that doesn't buy them much leeway in my book. If it is native or naturalized then fine but if it is invasive we generally don't allow it to grow. I have seen too many beautiful places overwhelmed by one weed or another. Tansy, toadflax, mayweed, himalayan orchids, karaganas, were all brought in on purpose, we have eradiacted or actually controlled all of these monsters with time and effort, at least on most pieces of land.


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## Riverdale

Cockleburrs and burdock are different animal (sorry, could not resist )

If they are burdock, they have some homepathic benefits, particularly with boils, acne and eczema.


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## *Andi

cowboyhermit said:


> We have irradicated quite a few weeds from our place but it is TOUGH, most of them were brought to the area as ornamental or medicinal plants so that doesn't buy them much leeway in my book. If it is native or naturalized then fine but if it is invasive we generally don't allow it to grow. I have seen too many beautiful places overwhelmed by one weed or another. Tansy, toadflax, mayweed, himalayan orchids, karaganas, were all brought in on purpose, we have eradiacted or actually controlled all of these monsters with time and effort, at least on most pieces of land.


Folks on the ol homestead are still fighting the Multiflora Rose. That living fence was quick to try and take over. (What a mess)


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## Cotton

*Andi said:


> Folks on the ol homestead are still fighting the Multiflora Rose. That living fence was quick to try and take over. (What a mess)


All Roses are rich in vitamin A and C. They are very astringent, great for drying and healing wounds.

These folks give a general information...
http://www.naturalmedicinalherbs.net/herbs/r/rosa-multiflora=japanese-rose.php
Herb: Japanese Rose
Latin name: Rosa multiflora
Family: Rosaceae (Rose Family)
Medicinal use of Japanese Rose:
The leaves are poulticed and applied to sores. The fruit is anodyne, diuretic, hypoglycaemic and laxative. It is also antidotal to fish poisoning. It is used to treat constipation and articular pain and as an application to foul ulcers, wounds, sprains and injuries. The seed is laxative and diuretic. The root is rich in tannins. It is astringent and carminative. The fruit of many members of this genus is a very rich source of vitamins and minerals, especially in vitamins A, C and E, flavanoids and other bio-active compounds. It is also a fairly good source of essential fatty acids, which is fairly unusual for a fruit. It is being investigated as a food that is capable of reducing the incidence of cancer and also as a means of halting or reversing the growth of cancers.

Rosa multiflora... lots of roses have gone wild over the centuries. (pic 1) There are miles of these on roadsides around here., just a few.

Also, some native hybrids with huge rose hips (pic 2). My best guess is they are Rosa Carolina (native). It'd take a geneticist to be sure..


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## *Andi

But again a invasive species ...


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## jeff47041

We keep our pastures mowed to 8". Cuts down on pinkeye, and keeps a lot of weeds in check. We normally only mow once or twice a year.
We have burrs in thickets and in fencerows, but don't remember ever a problem out in the pastures


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## OldCootHillbilly

A weed be a plant growin anywhere ya don't wan't it. It's usefullness don't matter ifin it has become a problem. Corn be a very usefull plant, lessin it be in yer bean field.


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## goshengirl

*Andi said:


> But again a invasive species ...


Yeah, here it's multiflora rose and honeysuckle. Working to eradicate them is a constant chore.

I shudder to think of kudzu...


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## crabapple

Kudzu, have you heard, the Gov. bought over a little black beetle to eat the Kudzu from it native land, but the bug found garden bean leaves more tasty & is now a pest.
We had cockebur, sour daisy(bitter weed)wild garlic & my father had his six children pulling them up. 
I had no time for drug,sex & rocking roll, I had animals to feed, wood to chop & weeds to pull. Where you pulled up a weed three more would sprout.


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## ContinualHarvest

With cocklebur, you're going to want to remove any seed heads you find. The seed remains in your soils seed bank for years. Let the goats have at it when the shoots are young. That will control some of if. Depending on the size of your pasture, cut any flowers off with shears or mow before they bloom.


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## ContinualHarvest

goshengirl said:


> Yeah, here it's multiflora rose and honeysuckle. Working to eradicate them is a constant chore.
> 
> I shudder to think of kudzu...


We have a lot of multiflora rose, honeysuckle, Japanese wineberry, Japanese stilt grass and wavy leaf basket grass. All invasive. I actually work with these species in my research lab.

The wineberry isn't too bad as it's useful and edible. It's only a problem while hunting as you pretty much have to wear briar pants and a briar jacket in the woods if you are in a 1st successional growth area (after a recent logging).


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