# Think Its The Axel Seals..Bus



## Meerkat (May 31, 2011)

Calipers look ok but there is grease all over the left back dual tires and going towarss teh right tire .

Any comments would be helpful.


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## Meerkat (May 31, 2011)

Heres a picture of our short bus,the one behind the log bus is what ours looks like,only not as fast.


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## Tirediron (Jul 12, 2010)

This is probably a 2 part problem, the axle seals seeping oil and possibly the callipers not fully releasing and building up heat some times 
Re sealing the axles is fairly straight forward, but involves some special tools and heavy lifting. a reputable shop should be able to do it in about 6 hours. the seals them selves shouldn't be more than $50.00 per side. if SKF makes a Scotseal for the application they are worth the bit more that they cost. You might be able to find a school bus mechanic that will do the job for you, I would recommend replacing the calipers at the same time because you are paying for most of the labour anyway, other than bleeding the brakes, but then the fluid should be changed anyway especially in a wet climate.


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## helicopter5472 (Feb 25, 2013)

Yep I think you right, you have a fun project ahead. Buses used as storage or little use (actually any vehicle) are prime subjects for seals to go bad as the rubber dries out from lack of lube circulation. The bad part is that grease settles usually on the brake shoes. If this is a very recent thing you usually can clean them off and lightly sand the surface of the shoes and reuse them, assuming the thickness of the shoe is still within useable limits. Most good auto parts stores can either look it up or match a new seal, if not the dealer for whatever brand, (Ford, Chevrolet, International) should be able to get your needed parts. If you don't use the bus, It's good to run it around the yard 2 or 3 times a year.


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## Meerkat (May 31, 2011)

Tirediron said:


> This is probably a 2 part problem, the axle seals seeping oil and possibly the callipers not fully releasing and building up heat some times
> Re sealing the axles is fairly straight forward, but involves some special tools and heavy lifting. a reputable shop should be able to do it in about 6 hours. the seals them selves shouldn't be more than $50.00 per side. if SKF makes a Scotseal for the application they are worth the bit more that they cost. You might be able to find a school bus mechanic that will do the job for you, I would recommend replacing the calipers at the same time because you are paying for most of the labour anyway, other than bleeding the brakes, but then the fluid should be changed anyway especially in a wet climate.


 Thanks for your help again,I think him and the kid doing the heavy lifting is at the point of finding out about your warning,haha about heavy lifting and special tools.

I think we have a decision to make,,use it for storage or sell it as is. We finally got inside fixed up the way we wanted now this happens.:eyebulge: Thinkign we would keep it,we have put lots of work hours and 6 new tires,plus had front end overhauled when we got it. But we did enjoy it while it lasted.

Bad thing is this bus has always started right up at the first turn of the key, so guess it gave us too much confidence.


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## Meerkat (May 31, 2011)

helicopter5472 said:


> Yep I think you right, you have a fun project ahead. Buses used as storage or little use (actually any vehicle) are prime subjects for seals to go bad as the rubber dries out from lack of lube circulation. The bad part is that grease settles usually on the brake shoes. If this is a very recent thing you usually can clean them off and lightly sand the surface of the shoes and reuse them, assuming the thickness of the shoe is still within useable limits. Most good auto parts stores can either look it up or match a new seal, if not the dealer for whatever brand, (Ford, Chevrolet, International) should be able to get your needed parts. If you don't use the bus, It's good to run it around the yard 2 or 3 times a year.


Thanks for help now have to make hard decision.
I always drove it around the pasture and cranked it up at least once a month.

I guess hubby was right about not wantign a bus,for different reason,haha,he said he would never ride in a school bus,never say never. Once we went on a few trips,he loved it.

I think he had a false feeling of granduer until he fell for Shorty.:laugh:

Sorry about typos,I fixed em.


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## Meerkat (May 31, 2011)

So far they pulled the axel and theres a large nut that won't break free. Is this where the special tool is needed?Nut is about 4 to 6 inches around. Won't break fre right or left handed turns.

Shoes and calipers look good. Its disk brakes front and rear.


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## Tirediron (Jul 12, 2010)

the big outer nut on the axle tube should have some kind of lock mechanism, and should be right hand thread, Look for a sheetmetal tab, a key of some sort engaged to the axle tube. the outer nut should only have about 200 ft lbs of torque on it.


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## helicopter5472 (Feb 25, 2013)

Meerkat said:


> So far they pulled the axel and theres a large nut that won't break free. Is this where the special tool is needed?Nut is about 4 to 6 inches around. Won't break fre right or left handed turns.
> 
> Shoes and calipers look good. Its disk brakes front and rear.


If I was in your shoes and you don't have someone with mechanical experience Stop and find someone...

At this point it would be good to get the calipers and pads out of the way. They are bolted on and can be removed without taking the brake line hose off, but should be supported after removed so its not hanging by the hose. Without being there, I'm not sure how the rotor is attached to the hub, some are attached by screws, but should be removable so they can be replaced if needed. It is also possible that the rotor and the hub are one unit too, so you will have to examine it. That nut is your stumping block, you will need a wrench to remove it, and if its been on there for many a year it may take heat, ( a torch) to remove it. Something people have done in the past, which I don't recommend, is taking a chisel and hammer on the edge of the nut to break it loose, but remember if all you manage to do is butcher up the nut and don't get it loose the proper socket or wrench may now not fit. Again, If I was in your shoes and you don't have someone with mechanical experience Stop and find someone


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## Meerkat (May 31, 2011)

Tirediron said:


> the big outer nut on the axle tube should have some kind of lock mechanism, and should be right hand thread, Look for a sheetmetal tab, a key of some sort engaged to the axle tube. the outer nut should only have about 200 ft lbs of torque on it.


Thanks Tirediron,

This is the husband who is trying to work on it. I think your right about the nut having some sort of locking mechanism because it does'nt want to break free to easily. I see at the bottom a little 1/8 inch slot but dont see a pin in it.We will take another closer look and see if it is some how locked. Thanks again and we will get back after looking again.


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## Meerkat (May 31, 2011)

helicopter5472 said:


> If I was in your shoes and you don't have someone with mechanical experience Stop and find someone...
> 
> At this point it would be good to get the calipers and pads out of the way. They are bolted on and can be removed without taking the brake line hose off, but should be supported after removed so its not hanging by the hose. Without being there, I'm not sure how the rotor is attached to the hub, some are attached by screws, but should be removable so they can be replaced if needed. It is also possible that the rotor and the hub are one unit too, so you will have to examine it. That nut is your stumping block, you will need a wrench to remove it, and if its been on there for many a year it may take heat, ( a torch) to remove it. Something people have done in the past, which I don't recommend, is taking a chisel and hammer on the edge of the nut to break it loose, but remember if all you manage to do is butcher up the nut and don't get it loose the proper socket or wrench may now not fit. Again, If I was in your shoes and you don't have someone with mechanical experience Stop and find someone


 Its Meerkat again.Hubby will check it out and get back.:wave:


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## Meerkat (May 31, 2011)

helicopter5472 said:


> If I was in your shoes and you don't have someone with mechanical experience Stop and find someone...
> 
> At this point it would be good to get the calipers and pads out of the way. They are bolted on and can be removed without taking the brake line hose off, but should be supported after removed so its not hanging by the hose. Without being there, I'm not sure how the rotor is attached to the hub, some are attached by screws, but should be removable so they can be replaced if needed. It is also possible that the rotor and the hub are one unit too, so you will have to examine it. That nut is your stumping block, you will need a wrench to remove it, and if its been on there for many a year it may take heat, ( a torch) to remove it. Something people have done in the past, which I don't recommend, is taking a chisel and hammer on the edge of the nut to break it loose, but remember if all you manage to do is butcher up the nut and don't get it loose the proper socket or wrench may now not fit. Again, If I was in your shoes and you don't have someone with mechanical experience Stop and find someone


Thanks Helicopter,

We tapped a few times like you dont recommend to see if it would break free to no avail.It did'nt harm it but I think that it is being held by something so we will take a closer look tomorrow . And I do have some mechanical experience , but not so much my trade.Was a paint and bodyman for 40 yrs.


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