# What's your favorite BoB knives/edged weaponry?



## MaximusBugOut

Mine are : 

#1 Gerber Gator Machete
#2 Light My Fire Swedish FireKnife
#3 Smith & Wesson SWMP5LS M&P Linerlock Knife

Post yours below.


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## TUSTX

Gerber bear grylls edition survival knife


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## Sparky_D

9 times out of 10, I have at least 6 quality blades at my disposal. All have been vetted for their intended purpose.


I have a few different folders (mostly Kershaw, Buck, and Gerber) thrown in my various bags, but my general favorites are an Opinel #8 Carbone, Kershaw Volt II, and a Victorinox Officer (all EDC).


For a general purpose fixed blade it's either a Mora Companion (BOB/EDC) or my ESEE IZULA (EDC).


For a heavy duty field knife, top nod goes to my Ka-Bar Becker BK2 (GHB), followed closely by my Cold Steel SRK (BOB), then either a Glock 78 or 81 or my Ontario Pilots Survival knife(Car/Truck Kits).

For field work, I have a Gerber Gator Jr (BOB) and an Ontario machette(GHB). I also have an Eastwing hatchet in my truck kit.


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## Magus

Kukuri, Marine K-bar, Buck 110, leatherman basic.


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## labotomi

Leatherman Wave, Schrade Schf9, Kershaw Half-Ton, Boker Raven, Cold Steel Barong machete (13 inch version)


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## HardCider

Good quality drop point sheath knife or 3 with 3-5 inch blades and a good 6-8 inch filet knife or 2, and the small hunters axe from Gransfor. Not really into the Rambo, tacticool/"zombie" crap but don't mind paying for quality that will last


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## bacpacker

I always have either a Kershaw Leek, or and old Boker folder on me. For fixed blade I would either have my Becker BK-7 or BK-2. the wife has a SOG Seal-Pup. Fits her very well.


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## Wanderer0101

Cold Steel Smatchet, Kabar, Kershaw Leek, sometimes I carry a Kukri


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## FatTire

Ka-Bar large heavy bowie, SOG aegis, Leatherman wave and juice, Victorinox swiss army in various configurations, Benchmade auto, and two skinners I made myself out of planer blade... those are my favorites scattered variously in BOB'S or used as EDC


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## LincTex

Gerber Multi-Plier 600

S&W liner-lock

"Breacher bar" made from a really old (thick) lawnmower blade, heat treated


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## OldCootHillbilly

Kukri, wave multi tool, ka bar, ww1 trench knife (it's real, not a remake, it resides on the web gear) couple a blades I've built, machete an a hatchet. Also a nice skinner. One that always be with me is a rescue knife, german steel, seatbelt cutter an a window spike. This takes a nice edge an it weren't real expensive.

I stay away from anything branded by a show star cause ya generally payin fer the name not the gear, but that just be me.


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## Wikkador

Vehicle #1
Emerson A-100 folder
RAT-5 fixed blade
Martindale Bolo machete

Vehicle #2
Applegate folder
Benchmade Nimravus fixed
Gerber Hatchet


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## PopPop

Tops BOB, GB Small forest axe, Bahco Laplander, Mora companion, leatherman wave and a case slimline trapper. Also a BK 9 and SAK as a stand alone, grab and go kit.


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## BF1911

James Williams Hissatsu folder, Spartan Enyo neck knife, Ka-Bar and ESSE RAT fixed blades. I have one fixed blade SOG that's a really nice, well made knife, extremely sharp.


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## mojo4

My pocket folding knives are the Gerber remix when im home and the Smith & Wesson border guard knives. Toss in a Mora knife in each car and a leatherman (any of their brilliant designs) and that is my blades of choice. Toss in a few machetes for funzies and im all set!


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## camo2460

I have always favored Bowie Knives, and I have several. My favorite is a "Daniel Boone Limited Edition" with a full tang and a 9 and 3/8" Stainless Steel blade. I prefer Carbon Steel, but this one is very rugged and takes a razor edge, so I can't complain.
My edc Knife is a SW folder with a four inch, partially serrated blade.
I also carry a full size Tomahawk, but will be switching to the smaller Rifle mans Hawk.


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## Deathdealer

For my edc I carry my spyderco paramilitary 2 witch is just an amazing knife in my back pocket next to my wallet I have a spyderco civilian on my hip I have a Ontario rat 3 and in my small kit I keep in my maxpedition pouch I have a crkt m16 due to its locking mechanism it's solidly built and has no wiggle or jiggle of the blade when locked!


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## camo2460

Correction on post number 16, the knife is a "Davey Crockett limited edition", not a Daniel Boone limited edition. Sorry about that, medicinal fog.


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## LastOutlaw

*Ontario Knives*

I recently ran across a number of Spax made by Ontario knives for the military use. From what I understand they put these survival hatchets on all helicopters to use to cut your way out of the airframe in the event of a crash. The hole in the middle is for turning on fire hydrants and gas lines.

http://www.amazon.com/Ontario-SP16-Knife-Sheath-Black/dp/B001CXPKEK

I also realized that Ontario Knives makes the M9 bayonet for the Marine Corp:

http://www.amazon.com/Ontario-490-Bayonet-System-Green/dp/B000Q9F7LM

So I was surfing through the Ontario Knives web site and saw their small machete. Price was awesome and I liked the look. I ordered 2 of them.

This has become my new favorite blade:

http://www.amazon.com/Ontario-Knife...1424209773&sr=1-1&keywords=ontario+knives+sp8


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## mosquitomountainman

Cold Steel Trail Hawk, Buck folder, sheath knife with 7 inch blade (forgot the brand but it has good steel and was a reasonable price), and a filet knife. When down south I have a Gerber, saw-back machete instead of the Trail Hawk.

For general use I also have a couple of Old Hickory butcher knives (one modified) and a short, small blade general purpose knife. I have one old knife with a 14 inch blade I'd have on hand under certain (hostile) conditions.

My favorite knives for hunting use include an old Western brand skinning knife I picked up at a yard sale for a dollar (always with me when hunting) and an old Coleman hunting/skinning knife I found on the beach here at Lake Mead. These are sold by K-Mart and WalMart with crappy sheaths and scales but the steel is good (you can get a fine edge to them and they hold it) and it sends a huge shower of sparks when used with a striker rod. That one resides in my back quiver.

When the money becomes available I'm getting this:


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## zilte

I have a little folding holder for single edged razor blades, for "fine" work. i have an locking plier multitool, and i have a little combo ukluk/froe that I made, which I can haft for use as a machete, if need be. It's also a lid for one of my pair of 2 qt canteen cups. I really hate having to build a fire more than once per day, so when I do build a fire, I do enough cooking and boiling of water to last me for 24 hours. I dig a dakota pit, both for discreteness and to use less wood. Use some roots or vines to tie the sticks into a bundle, drop them vertically into the dakota pit, suspend the cups over the pit. If it's cold and bedtime, I also use the pit to heat some big stones, which then either get buried under my hammock or wrapped up and taken inside of my sleeping gear with me. The latter is normally done with my water bottles, too. When they are full of hot water, they add warmth for several hours.


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## txpossum

Sigh. Looking at this list, I see very few knives that I would even own, much less depend on in a serious situation. And I'd bet most of you don't know the type or properties of the blade steel either (and no, I don't mean carbon or stainless -- those terms are so general they are essentially meaningless. ) Almost no one does any research into the materials or the applicability of the design of the blade before buying.

So -- what do I carry? A variety of knives at different times, but some of my favorites are the Swamp Rat Howling Rat and Camp Tramp; Mike Stewart era Marbles and Blackjack knives, with 52-100 and A-2 steels respectively; some early Bark River knives. For folders I like REKAT, Benchmade, Moore Maker, and my edc, a 70's Gerber folding sportsman from when Gerber made decent blades out of 440C stainless.


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## labotomi

txpossum said:


> Sigh. Looking at this list, I see very few knives that I would even own, much less depend on in a serious situation. And I'd bet most of you don't know the type or properties of the blade steel either (and no, I don't mean carbon or stainless -- those terms are so general they are essentially meaningless. ) Almost no one does any research into the materials or the applicability of the design of the blade before buying.


This group consists more of practical people instead of ones that tend to be snobbish, but if owning those knives is what it takes for you to feel good about yourself then who is anyone to argue?


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## ras1219como

My edc is a Winchester brand stainless steel folder with a 3 inch blade and it's with me everyday at work. I also keep a 5.11 2" boot knife strapped to my chest rig. 

My BOB has a Gerber folder with a 4 inch blade and an unknown brand fixed blade hunting knife. Both knives were passed down to me by my grandfather. The hunting knife holds a razor sharp edge and gramps used it for about 25 years before it got passed to me.


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## Starcreek

A hand-forged knife made by a blacksmith I know.
This is him using one of his knives to shave his little brother:


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## txpossum

labotomi said:


> This group consists more of practical people instead of ones that tend to be snobbish, but if owning those knives is what it takes for you to feel good about yourself then who is anyone to argue?


What I am talking about is a significant difference in performance, not snobbery.


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## txpossum

Sharpening is a whole 'nuther topic. Very few people know how to do that either.


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## ras1219como

Perhaps you shouldn't assume that people don't know what they're talking about or don't know what they're doing. Regardless of how you meant it your comments are being received poorly by others.


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## squerly

Starcreek said:


> A hand-forged knife made by a blacksmith I know.
> This is him using one of his knives to shave his little brother:


Yipes! There's a lot of trust being displayed in that video!


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## txpossum

ras1219como said:


> Perhaps you shouldn't assume that people don't know what they're talking about or don't know what they're doing. Regardless of how you meant it your comments are being received poorly by others.


I'm merely going by the content of their posts. On this, and most other preparedness forums, the vast majority buy knives on names they've heard (like Gerber or Cold Steel) or because it's used by the military (KA-BAR) without understanding what they're buying. Items that they are buying with the intent on relying on them in emergency or shtf situations. They will spend hundreds or thousands of dollars on guns and ammo, but balk at paying $100 for a knife.

I've collected knives for over forty years, sold knives, even made a few. But you are saying that, on this forum dedicated to preparedness, I should not give my opinion on the suitability of equipment because it's not what they want to hear?


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## FatTire

For my part, I buy a knife and then I use it, abuse it even. If it doesnt hold up it goes away. I suspect most here are the same way. I reccomend tools like the kabar large heavy bowie not because of any military romance, but because ive used and abused it in conditions ranging from below zero in montana and the dakotas, to the wetland deltas of california. Certainly you could spend more, but I dont need to.


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## labotomi

txpossum said:


> I'm merely going by the content of their posts. On this, and most other preparedness forums, the vast majority buy knives on names they've heard (like Gerber or Cold Steel) or because it's used by the military (KA-BAR) without understanding what they're buying. Items that they are buying with the intent on relying on them in emergency or shtf situations. They will spend hundreds or thousands of dollars on guns and ammo, but balk at paying $100 for a knife.
> 
> I've collected knives for over forty years, sold knives, even made a few. But you are saying that, on this forum dedicated to preparedness, I should not give my opinion on the suitability of equipment because it's not what they want to hear?


Just as you are entitled to your opinion, others are entitled to theirs. When you open your opinion using this statement


txpossum said:


> Sigh. Looking at this list, I see very few knives that I would even own, much less depend on in a serious situation. And I'd bet most of you don't know the type or properties of the blade steel either


You can't claim that you meant anything other than to be condescending towards others.

As to the "significant difference in performance" you claim your knives have over others... exactly who defines "significant"? To me the difference is insignificant (and I have a metalurgical background). What is important to me may or may not be important to you. The knives I buy and carry perform every task I put them through without fail. Many somewhat popular tests such as battoning, i feel are mostly useless.

There is no "best knife", there is no "best steel"
What's best for you may be less than suitable for others.


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## Sparky_D

This thread isn't about the "best" knives or edged weapons, it's about a persons favorite.

My favorite (insert inanimate object of choice) may NOT be the best available for several reasons, up to and including personal preference, financial limitations, geographical limitations, product availability, and scores of other real and tangible reasons.

This forum exists to have open dialog about topics many people ignore or don't take seriously.

Pissing matches only prove one thing. You're full of piss.

[/rant]


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## txpossum

If by "condescending" you mean that 'm tellingI people that the knives I buy are better quality, and better suited for shtf situations than most of those previously listed in this thread, then I guess your right. I don't buy knives on price for status . . . I buy them for, as best as I can determine, quality of materials and workmanship. They aren't all pricey -- I have a couple of Moras that go for under $20.00 each, and are very good knives for the price. I'm currently trying out an ebay seller who is selling what look like very decent knives with blade steel of D2 and 1080 (not a favorite of mine, but I'm gonna give it a try for the price) for under $25.00. I don't buy Bark River any more because I feel the price has gone up to where they are asking more that what they are worth, even though imo they are a very well made knife. And I keep and use my knives for years -- I only recently retired a Marbles Ideal that was given to me by my father 50 years ago.

So far I haven't heard any defense of previously listed knives on any basis but "my opinion is just as good as yours". A valid criticism could be "but yes, the knives you prefer usually have a harder RC hardness, which can be more difficult to sharpen in a shtf situation". Nobody is talking about edge retention, toughness, strength, corrosion resistence, or suitability for a specific task. If you think your knife is just as good, or better, then mine, then tell me why.


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## txpossum

This forum exists to have open dialog about topics many people ignore or don't take seriously.

And so what do you think I am doing? Or should I only make posts that everybody agrees with?


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## Sparky_D

txpossum said:


> This forum exists to have open dialog about topics many people ignore or don't take seriously.
> 
> And so what do you think I am doing? Or should I only make posts that everybody agrees with?


You have made no assertion of the "better quality" of your choices beyond naming the steel type used in construction. 
Not all steels work well in all environments. Sometimes I'll sacrifice a little hardness for ease of sharpening in the field, and sometimes I'll sacrifice a little ease of sharpening to get something that's not going to start pitting with rust being in my pocket every day or in my trunk for weeks or months at a time.

You also make the assumption that people have done little or no research beyond "name recognition". I can assure you, such is not the case with many members here, and myself in particular. I have developed my blade choices and systems based on both online research as well as first hand and trusted second hand experience. I have a pile of knives that didn't make the cut (pardon the pun) to prove it...

So, for the sake of discussion, I'll take this time to explain the "why" of my favorite BoB knives/edged weaponry:

My current folder EDC is a Kershaw Volt II. The 8Cr13MoV steel is rust resistant (important in the Pacific NW), holds a good edge, and is pretty easy to sharpen. The SpeedSafe opening is also useful and convenient for one handed opening. It's a step up from my old EDC blades which were generally 440 Stainless and much harder to sharpen and keep sharp. Besides, getting it on sale for under $25 makes it something I'm not afraid to use hard and often.

Once I get a "Deep Carry" clip for my Kershaw Leek, I'll probably switch to that for my EDC folder. The steel on the Leek is a step above the Volt II, and I like the blade style. I just don't care for the way the factory clip makes the knife ride so high in my pocked in tip-up carry. I'm just not sure if the metal scales will be condusive to my EDC tasks. I may augment them with some grip tape. We'll see...

My ultimate EDC folder would likely be an EnZo Birk with a D2 Scandia blade and Carbon Fiber scales based on the research I have done. At the $100+ mark, it's one of the most expensive knives I've considered, especially for a folder.

My ESEE Izula is a 1095 Carbon Steel model. It's tough enough for tasks usually reserved for much larger knives, it sharpens and holds a wicked edge, and because it's part of my EDC system, I have it with me most of the time. Ounce for ounce, it's one of the best knives (in MY opinion) a person could choose for the niche it fits into. I spent just under $50 on mine and added $25 Micarta Grip Scales. Worth every penny to me. I tried the Izula II, but I like the size of the Izula better for the tasks I'll use it for.

The Carbon Steel Mora knives are scary sharp, very inexpensive, and super light weight. The Scandi grind on the blade takes a little getting used to, but that thing hones to a razors edge in no time. I can split hairs with that blade. 
A quick grind on the unfinished spine gives me a great firesteel striker, a lanyard hole drilled in the pommel allows me to attach about 12' of paracord, and some simple modifications and additions to the sheath help to make it an inexpensive "grab-n-go" bushcraft style knife for under $20.

My Ka-Bar Becker BK2 is a beast of a knife that will take any amount of abuse I can throw at it. The 1095 Cro-Van steel hones to a razors edge I could shave with, and didn't cost me an arm and a leg, allowing me the opportunity to buy more than one for my various kits. I've seen these knives used and abused to extents that would destroy other blades. A file and sharpening stone can easily restore the edge in the field should you manage to damage it. Picked mine up for under $60 on eBay a while back.

My Cold Steel SRK is an older model with AUS-8 Stainless Steel which is corrosion resistant, easily sharpened, and holds its edge fairly well. The fact that I was able to buy if for under $30 helped too. Cold Steel gets a bad rap these days because of their reliance on Chinese manufacturers, and while that may be warranted, the older Japanese blades are worthy.

The same can be said for Gerber. Their over-seas made knives are generally inferior to their US made blades. I have some of both and can litterally feel the difference in handling and sharpening.

And quite honestly, the Glock knives are in my kits because that are rugged, light weight, and inexpensive. Watching the totrure videos on these blades was enough to convince me that they were worthy of consideration if for nothing more than an inpromptu pry bar...
They hold a utilitarian edge, but if I need scalpel sharpness, I have other blades for that. Under $30 shipped, they may not win any beauty contests, but when I need something to pound, I won't get bent if the blade does...
Plus, they throw nicely.

None of these knives cost a ton of money, and all of them have proven track records where it counts. They are readily available from a variety of sources and are almost always in stock somewhere.

Is that the kind of exchange you are looking for?


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## TheLazyL

txpossum said:


> Sharpening is a whole 'nuther topic. Very few people know how to do that either.


Power bench grinder?


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## txpossum

Sparky_D said:


> You have made no assertion of the "better quality" of your choices beyond naming the steel type used in construction.
> Not all steels work well in all environments. Sometimes I'll sacrifice a little hardness for ease of sharpening in the field, and sometimes I'll sacrifice a little ease of sharpening to get something that's not going to start pitting with rust being in my pocket every day or in my trunk for weeks or months at a time.
> 
> You also make the assumption that people have done little or no research beyond "name recognition". I can assure you, such is not the case with many members here, and myself in particular. I have developed my blade choices and systems based on both online research as well as first hand and trusted second hand experience. I have a pile of knives that didn't make the cut (pardon the pun) to prove it...
> 
> So, for the sake of discussion, I'll take this time to explain the "why" of my favorite BoB knives/edged weaponry:
> 
> My current folder EDC is a Kershaw Volt II. The 8Cr13MoV steel is rust resistant (important in the Pacific NW), holds a good edge, and is pretty easy to sharpen. The SpeedSafe opening is also useful and convenient for one handed opening. It's a step up from my old EDC blades which were generally 440 Stainless and much harder to sharpen and keep sharp. Besides, getting it on sale for under $25 makes it something I'm not afraid to use hard and often.
> 
> Once I get a "Deep Carry" clip for my Kershaw Leek, I'll probably switch to that for my EDC folder. The steel on the Leek is a step above the Volt II, and I like the blade style. I just don't care for the way the factory clip makes the knife ride so high in my pocked in tip-up carry. I'm just not sure if the metal scales will be condusive to my EDC tasks. I may augment them with some grip tape. We'll see...
> 
> My ultimate EDC folder would likely be an EnZo Birk with a D2 Scandia blade and Carbon Fiber scales based on the research I have done. At the $100+ mark, it's one of the most expensive knives I've considered, especially for a folder.
> 
> My ESEE Izula is a 1095 Carbon Steel model. It's tough enough for tasks usually reserved for much larger knives, it sharpens and holds a wicked edge, and because it's part of my EDC system, I have it with me most of the time. Ounce for ounce, it's one of the best knives (in MY opinion) a person could choose for the niche it fits into. I spent just under $50 on mine and added $25 Micarta Grip Scales. Worth every penny to me. I tried the Izula II, but I like the size of the Izula better for the tasks I'll use it for.
> 
> The Carbon Steel Mora knives are scary sharp, very inexpensive, and super light weight. The Scandi grind on the blade takes a little getting used to, but that thing hones to a razors edge in no time. I can split hairs with that blade.
> A quick grind on the unfinished spine gives me a great firesteel striker, a lanyard hole drilled in the pommel allows me to attach about 12' of paracord, and some simple modifications and additions to the sheath help to make it an inexpensive "grab-n-go" bushcraft style knife for under $20.
> 
> My Ka-Bar Becker BK2 is a beast of a knife that will take any amount of abuse I can throw at it. The 1095 Cro-Van steel hones to a razors edge I could shave with, and didn't cost me an arm and a leg, allowing me the opportunity to buy more than one for my various kits. I've seen these knives used and abused to extents that would destroy other blades. A file and sharpening stone can easily restore the edge in the field should you manage to damage it. Picked mine up for under $60 on eBay a while back.
> 
> My Cold Steel SRK is an older model with AUS-8 Stainless Steel which is corrosion resistant, easily sharpened, and holds its edge fairly well. The fact that I was able to buy if for under $30 helped too. Cold Steel gets a bad rap these days because of their reliance on Chinese manufacturers, and while that may be warranted, the older Japanese blades are worthy.
> 
> The same can be said for Gerber. Their over-seas made knives are generally inferior to their US made blades. I have some of both and can litterally feel the difference in handling and sharpening.
> 
> And quite honestly, the Glock knives are in my kits because that are rugged, light weight, and inexpensive. Watching the totrure videos on these blades was enough to convince me that they were worthy of consideration if for nothing more than an inpromptu pry bar...
> They hold a utilitarian edge, but if I need scalpel sharpness, I have other blades for that. Under $30 shipped, they may not win any beauty contests, but when I need something to pound, I won't get bent if the blade does...
> Plus, they throw nicely.
> 
> None of these knives cost a ton of money, and all of them have proven track records where it counts. They are readily available from a variety of sources and are almost always in stock somewhere.
> 
> Is that the kind of exchange you are looking for?


Yes, it is. And few, if any, of the knives you listed were mentioned earlier in the thread. Except for the Glock, whose design I don't like for a survival/bushcraft knife , I have no problems with the knives you mentioned. I agree about current Gerber and Cold Steel products, and the knives I own by these companies are over 20 years old. One of which is a SRK I keep in one of my "get-home" bags.

My complaint with the thread is that, imo, the products mentioned were not good choices, and that most people buy knives with little consideration or knowledge of materials or suitability if design for their intended use. Price is not a primary factor, as I have and use inexpensive knives, although I admit that the ones I initially mentioned are somewhat pricey. But I like knives. You state that many members here put a lot of thought into their choices. I believe that. But none of the previous posts reflected this, and yours was the first one that set out the considerations that went into your choices.


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## txpossum

The knives I previously mentioned are those I keep/use for camping/survival purposes; below is a pic of my edc's that a rotate on a random basis, whenever I just feel like a change.
From left to right: Moore Maker trapper; Benchmade mini-griptilian; two vintage Gerber folding Sportsmans; and a Benchmade Outbounder.


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## ras1219como

Txpossum while I appreciate that you probably have a lot of experience in this area and I have no issue with you providing your opinions, I will give you this food for thought. 

You're pretty new here. Most members here are conscientious, thoughtful, and experienced preppers. We have various reasons for doing things or having certain gear which others may not understand. While opinions are welcomed, how you offer their opinion is critical. If you sound condiscending and rude people will be far less likely to listen especially since you're new and you have not yet gained respect here. Essentially your posts come off very rude, I'd suggest rethinking how you write your posts.


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## txpossum

ras1219como said:


> Txpossum while I appreciate that you probably have a lot of experience in this area and I have no issue with you providing your opinions, I will give you this food for thought.
> 
> You're pretty new here. Most members here are conscientious, thoughtful, and experienced preppers. We have various reasons for doing things or having certain gear which others may not understand. While opinions are welcomed, how you offer their opinion is critical. If you sound condiscending and rude people will be far less likely to listen especially since you're new and you have not yet gained respect here. Essentially your posts come off very rude, I'd suggest rethinking how you write your posts.


Well, actually, I joined this forum about two years before you did.

And I agree about replies that sound condescending and rude . . . such as telling posters that they are newbies without respect.


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## labotomi

txpossum said:


> You state that many members here put a lot of thought into their choices. I believe that. But none of the previous posts reflected this


Read the title of the thread. It says nothing about posting the reason or considerations for your choice so you shouldn't expect reasons or justifications. Also, consider that bugging out can mean different things to people. I am where I an to stay. There is little chance of something happening where I would be better off leaving. I prepare for getting home from 40 to 50 miles. I don't need much in the way of knives and my bob/ghb contains more than I actually feel I need.

Whether you realize it or not... You're a knife snob. It's obvious where you venture onto a tangent story just to mention other knives you have or have had.


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## txpossum

labotomi said:


> Read the title of the thread. It says nothing about posting the reason or considerations for your choice so you shouldn't expect reasons or justifications. Also, consider that bugging out can mean different things to people. I am where I an to stay. There is little chance of something happening where I would be better off leaving. I prepare for getting home from 40 to 50 miles. I don't need much in the way of knives and my bob/ghb contains more than I actually feel I need.
> 
> Whether you realize it or not... You're a knife snob. It's obvious where you venture onto a tangent story just to mention other knives you have or have had.


OF COURSE I'M A KNIFE SNOB. But that doesn't mean I'm wrong.

And I have no plans to bug out unless aliens land in my back yard, as I have a decent set up where I am. My office is 65 miles from where I live, and my ghb is geared towards making that trip, but I suspect that having a decent knife or two will make some of the chores involved with such a trip a little bit easier.


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## ras1219como

I didn't mean you're new based upon join date. I meant you don't post much and are relatively unknown here which means you haven't gained the trust or respect of the members. 

This has turned into a pissing match that I'm not going to be a part of.


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## txpossum

ras1219como said:


> I didn't mean you're new based upon join date. I meant you don't post much and are relatively unknown here which means you haven't gained the trust or respect of the members.
> 
> This has turned into a pissing match that I'm not going to be a part of.


Well, I'd call it a spirited discussion between members with differing opinions, but that's the great thing about forums . . . you don't have to read threads you don't want to.


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## mojo4

txpossum said:


> The knives I previously mentioned are those I keep/use for camping/survival purposes; below is a pic of my edc's that a rotate on a random basis, whenever I just feel like a change.
> From left to right: Moore Maker trapper; Benchmade mini-griptilian; two vintage Gerber folding Sportsmans; and a Benchmade Outbounder.


Those look like old man knives. You need new ones with tactical lasers attached for night knifing!!!  So here is my new baby for every day carry, with my index finger in the hole I have more power and control over any other knife I have ever used. Plus its good Gerber steel and takes a razor edge and keeps it. 2 cut free thumbs up for this baby!


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## txpossum

mojo4 said:


> Those look like old man knives. You need new ones with tactical lasers attached for night knifing!!!  So here is my new baby for every day carry, with my index finger in the hole I have more power and control over any other knife I have ever used. Plus its good Gerber steel and takes a razor edge and keeps it. 2 cut free thumbs up for this baby!


Well, first of all, I am an old guy. Secondly, I have more "tacticool" knives, but for edc I prefer something that does not raise people's eyebrows, especially if they are sitting on a jury. Third, the blade steel is a Chinese version of 440a, which is softer and will not hold an edge as well as the 440c used in my vintage gerbers.


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## SwordsandSaddles

I think the only standard in my kit is a Mora Companion. Use if for all of my bushcraft and food prep tasks. Dependability, edge retention, you get the full nine yards in my AO. 

I usually pair that up with a chopping tool. Tomahawk, Machete, a real ax. I'm partial to 2hawks, Ontario Knife Company, but I haven't settled in on a preferred ax yet. 

The only large knife that I haven't broken yet is a Kabar WW2 Marine repro. I've run a bunch of them into the mud, and left them pushing daisies. Still looking though. 

I only carry blades that survive testing, and they do not go into a kit until they have lasted for year, or been used to exclusion for a long stretch.


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## Viking

I've had my eye on some knives in the Traditional Woodworker catalog, a business out of Richardson Texas where we bought a one man 3' crosscut saw. They sell hand made hunting knives by Takeshi Saji, made with white paper steel, hardened to HRC 63 or blue paper steel, hardened to HRC 64-65, they are expensive but perhaps once our building projects get done, I'll have some "mad money" to get one.


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## Alfred_E_Neuman

I have a Ka-Bar. I bought it just after I graduated from Paris Island. The grips are warn smooth, stained with sweat. It requires sharpening. I am ok wiith it.


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## camo2460

I just bought a new knife a few weeks ago, the steel is very hard file steel, 1/4" thick, 4 1/2" full tang blade with diamond wood scales. No my knife did not cost $125.00, the handle is not encrusted with jewels, nor is it a name brand knife. The knife is called the "Down Home Hunter" by Atlanta Cutlery and cost $15.00, but it will take, and does keep a razors edge. I don't know about anybody else, but I abuse knives, I split wood with them, use them as throwing knives, stick them in the dirt, drop them on hard surfaces etc. etc. the point is that this knife is no different and it has held up well with only minor scratches and I would put this knife against a more expensive one any day, and for only $15.00.


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## txpossum

camo2460 said:


> I just bought a new knife a few weeks ago, the steel is very hard file steel, 1/4" thick, 4 1/2" full tang blade with diamond wood scales. No my knife did not cost $125.00, the handle is not encrusted with jewels, nor is it a name brand knife. The knife is called the "Down Home Hunter" by Atlanta Cutlery and cost $15.00, but it will take, and does keep a razors edge. I don't know about anybody else, but I abuse knives, I split wood with them, use them as throwing knives, stick them in the dirt, drop them on hard surfaces etc. etc. the point is that this knife is no different and it has held up well with only minor scratches and I would put this knife against a more expensive one any day, and for only $15.00.


I must be getting all the cutlery lemons, because even my better knives rarely come with a razor edge, and dull with use, or even by oxidation by sitting a while. Some will never have this fine an edge without my changing the basic blade geometry, as this was not what they were designed for. So . . . your 1/4 inch thick blade will chop through wood and still "pop" the hair off your arm?


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## Cotton

For some reason I didn’t click on this thread for a few days, now I know why!

I’ve carried buck knives since I was a kid. They’ve never failed me after years of abuse, easy to sharpen and will hold an edge. I’m on my third 110. I still have my first one but there is not much blade left, after many, many years of hard use that’s to be expected.

I got a buck 650 during the 100 year anniversary, a very good knife I carry in the pack. I’ve cleaned deer and used it as a general camp knife. It’s always done everything I needed. I think they call them nighthawks, several variants.

Talk about cheap knives… One night I saw the knife auction channel. They had a set of buck skinning knives I wanted but of course I had to buy the “entire set”. Needless to say every male member of my family has known what they are getting for Christmas for a decade!  I’m still giving frost cutlery knives away. But I love those skinning knives! Actually some of the frost serrated blade knives are great “stash or throw away” knives. Can’t ever have to many of those.

I had a chance to buy several ceramic razor blades a few years ago. Limited uses, very sharp and will go through metal detectors... handy thing to have.


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## txpossum

Viking said:


> I've had my eye on some knives in the Traditional Woodworker catalog, a business out of Richardson Texas where we bought a one man 3' crosscut saw. They sell hand made hunting knives by Takeshi Saji, made with white paper steel, hardened to HRC 63 or blue paper steel, hardened to HRC 64-65, they are expensive but perhaps once our building projects get done, I'll have some "mad money" to get one.


I just took a look at that site. I'm not familiar with those knives, or have even owned a knife made from white paper or blue paper steel. They look like good knives, and with such a high RC rating would probably take a super edge, but mebbe a little on the rigid or brittle side. I had not heard of the company, but I like some of their axes also. Thanks for the info.


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## txpossum

Cotton said:


> For some reason I didn't click on this thread for a few days, now I know why!
> 
> I've carried buck knives since I was a kid. They've never failed me after years of abuse, easy to sharpen and will hold an edge. I'm on my third 110. I still have my first one but there is not much blade left, after many, many years of hard use that's to be expected.
> 
> I got a buck 650 during the 100 year anniversary, a very good knife I carry in the pack. I've cleaned deer and used it as a general camp knife. It's always done everything I needed. I think they call them nighthawks, several variants.
> 
> Talk about cheap knives&#8230; One night I saw the knife auction channel. They had a set of buck skinning knives I wanted but of course I had to buy the "entire set". Needless to say every male member of my family has known what they are getting for Christmas for a decade!  I'm still giving frost cutlery knives away. But I love those skinning knives! Actually some of the frost serrated blade knives are great "stash or throw away" knives. Can't ever have to many of those.
> 
> I had a chance to buy several ceramic razor blades a few years ago. Limited uses, very sharp and will go through metal detectors... handy thing to have.


I'm not up on all the latest Buck knives, but I've owned several over the years, and I've always kept one or two of the 110 folders around, but they had one common quality that irritated me: I shouldn't like them as well as I do. Their most commonly used steel was 420HC, which is on the lower end of knife steels, but Buck's heat treating process upped the performance of the steel to where it was on par with "better" steels. I always found them to be a solid, well made knife.


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## camo2460

txpossum said:


> I must be getting all the cutlery lemons, because even my better knives rarely come with a razor edge, and dull with use, or even by oxidation by sitting a while. Some will never have this fine an edge without my changing the basic blade geometry, as this was not what they were designed for. So . . . your 1/4 inch thick blade will chop through wood and still "pop" the hair off your arm?


My friend you need to put your glasses on and go back and re-read my post. I never said the knife came with a razor edge, would not dull with use, or shave hair after chopping wood. I was merely pointing out the abuse I put a knife through as a proving, and the edge retention and the ease of putting a razor edge back on the blade after such abuse. Further, the blade is 1/4" at the spine not the edge.


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## txpossum

camo2460 said:


> My friend you need to put your glasses on and go back and re-read my post. I never said the knife came with a razor edge, would not dull with use, or shave hair after chopping wood. I was merely pointing out the abuse I put a knife through as a proving, and the edge retention and the ease of putting a razor edge back on the blade after such abuse. Further, the blade is 1/4" at the spine not the edge.


You did say that it would "take" and "retain" razor edge, and to be fair, you didn't specifically state how long or under what conditions it would maintain the edge.

Not having seen the knife personally, I went to the Atlanta Cutlery website, and looked it up, then watched the video the website recommended. Interestingly enough, the knife claims to be made from a file, yet is marked "Stainless". No real files are made with stainless steel. Yes I know the 1/4 inch is at the spine, but the blade geometry on a knife that thick would make it difficult to bet a razor edge on it. It's made in Pakistan.

It might be a decent enough knock-around knife for the price, but it is not a high quality knife and will not perform like one.


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## camo2460

txpossum said:


> You did say that it would "take" and "retain" razor edge, and to be fair, you didn't specifically state how long or under what conditions it would maintain the edge.
> 
> Not having seen the knife personally, I went to the Atlanta Cutlery website, and looked it up, then watched the video the website recommended. Interestingly enough, the knife claims to be made from a file, yet is marked "Stainless". No real files are made with stainless steel. Yes I know the 1/4 inch is at the spine, but the blade geometry on a knife that thick would make it difficult to bet a razor edge on it. It's made in Pakistan.
> 
> It might be a decent enough knock-around knife for the price, but it is not a high quality knife and will not perform like one.


I don't see any markings for stainless on the blade or in the description of the knife, and if it is there you're going to have to point it out to me, because I'm not seeing it. You keep mentioning "blade geometry" as a requisite for achieving a razor edge, and yet the 3x3 inch hairless patch on my chest proves a razor edge. You also might want to do a little more research on the knives coming out of Pakistan these days, the steel has improved greatly, not all knives I'll give you that, but if you do your home work you can get a good blade at a reasonable price. About ten years ago I bought a very cheap blade from BudK knives, a 6 1/2" Bowie, thick heavy stainless. I can make that knife so sharp it's scary and it's out of Pakistan. I'm just a simple country boy who doesn't know anything about blade geometry, but I know a sharp knife when I see one, and I know how to make one sharp, I've been doing it for 50+ years.


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## Cotton

camo2460 said:


> You keep mentioning "blade geometry" as a requisite for achieving a razor edge, and yet the 3x3 inch hairless patch on my chest proves a razor edge.


Camo&#8230; I put a shaving edge on a buck hatchet I bought at walmart with an old lansky! Took most of an afternoon! Some shapes take a lot more effort but it can be done. The final geometry "is" the edge you put on it . IT's final edge is determined by the quality of the steel, not starting geometry or starting mix of the metal.

Cooking is what makes a good knife&#8230; Dear old dad was a tool and die maker (worked at his shop in my younger days)&#8230; He was a master "cooker", could do amazing things with steel. Daily, he made steel to cut steel!

The grade of steel is determined by "mix" and "how it was cooked". Either one by its self does not determine quality! Grade changes each time steel is heated! Steel can be cooked again, even re-cooked several times. Each time this changes its properties&#8230; ease of sharpening, how long it will hold an edge&#8230; Quality.

Quality itself is a subjective term, what do you want to use a blade for?


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## musketjim

I have a nice skinner with gut hook, can't remember the brand, also use the Gerber Machete Pro. I've used various hatchets, not a lot of name brands tho.


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## wildbill

I have used quite a few different brands, usually fixed blades. I believe you get what you pay for to a certain extent, but have currently been buying and using Condor knives . Right now I have the bushlore hanging on my hip and has been for a couple years . For what you pay for these knives, I don't think they can be beat. Just like the Old Hickory knife set in my kitchen, they're cheap and they hold a damn decent edge, and that's all I need.


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## SwordsandSaddles

I'm planning on trying out a Condor sheath knife soon. Suggestion on model?


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## wildbill

Depends on what you plan to do with it. Right now I have the Bushlore and it is a good all around general purpose knife. It a little over 9" long with the blade being 4 5/16" and 3/16" thick. They also say they have a Scandinavian grind, but in reality they're not, they have a small secondary edge. But about an hours work on a stone and you'll have a true scandi edge.


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## SwordsandSaddles

That thing is thick!


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## mojo4

txpossum said:


> I must be getting all the cutlery lemons, because even my better knives rarely come with a razor edge, and dull with use, or even by oxidation by sitting a while. Some will never have this fine an edge without my changing the basic blade geometry, as this was not what they were designed for. So . . . your 1/4 inch thick blade will chop through wood and still "pop" the hair off your arm?


I thought your old man knives were made of steel stronger than Thor's hammer?? Better buy a new Gerber. Try this one...... its great!! Nothing worse than someone who can't admit that manufacturing might have slightly improved since the 50's. I bet you're a wood stock rifle fan too.......


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## SwordsandSaddles

Gerber generally does suck. And I only have experience with them in the last five years.


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## ZangLussuria

Gerber is hit or miss in my experience. I've had a few good ones and a few bad ones.
If you get a good one, great!
Mojo, that model Gerber looks interesting. I might consider it. Thanks for the heads up.
I had a small keychain multitool and 2 Gerber Crucials. I really loved the design on the Crucial and the size for EDC but the pocket clip screws were tiny and got stripped easily.
I still do carry my Gerber Truss 2.0 clipped to my boot as a backup knife. Pretty good knife and small size.
Just haven't had much luck with their multitools.
I've carried a Spyderco Endura before.

In my BOB, I have a Victorinox WorkChamp. It's the most feature packed model back then with the locking blade.
I'll throw in my Leatherman Xe6 in there at times.
There's a Tramontina Machete with sheath clipped to the pack and a cheap Winchester folder in the E&E kit inside the BOB.

On me everyday are my Fenix KM3 and a Utilikey with my house keys.
These aren't high end but they've been useful when I've needed them.

Getting a tactical pen and an Emerson CQC7 Tanto in the coming months.


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## tenntex

My EDC is a 3 7/8 stockman sold by Coleman, made in China.

It has done everything I've needed, holds an edge well, and is not too difficult to sharpen (with an angle jig and diamond).

The only thing is, I _never ask it to chop wood, skin a grizzly bear, or anything else it is not designed for.

The only real difference between different steels (from the perspective of a user) is marketing: "my steel is better than your steel".

If you abuse knives, then the difference in steels, heat treat, and brand makes a difference. But I don't abuse my tools. If I need a bigger tool, I get one.

A $20 knife that I use for its intended purpose is, IMHO, a better choice than a +$100 knife that I will never abuse anyway._


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## LincTex

ZangLussuria said:


> I still do carry my Gerber Truss ... Just haven't had much luck with their multi-tools.


Have you ever owned a Gerber Multi-Plier 600?



ZangLussuria said:


> In my BOB, I have a Victorinox WorkChamp. It's the most feature packed model back then with the locking blade.


I like Victorinox knives, but hadn't heard of this one. I searched for it and came up with several different models bearing the same name?


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## readytogo

*My highly used BoB toys.*

The Nor Mark is made in Sweden and the other is the Victorinox Mauser is a 108mm Swiss Army Knife made for the German market, both no longer in production have been with me now for decades and have seen plenty of used, the white surgical steel blades on this knifes requires very little stone sharpening just a bit of honing and you can shave, as you can see they are not intended for jungle warfare although they will cut your throat easily, but the Buck Master 184 is another matter.....


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## Wikkador

Dude! is that a 1980's buckmaster?


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## Balls004

My EDC and favorite knife is a BuckLite 0442BKS-B. I have two left after losing a couple around our place. I keep hoping to find the others, but on sixty acres, I'm not holding my breath. I look for them to show up on e-bay occasionally and buy them when I find them, but lately haven't seen one.


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## HardCider

I have to admit I'm a knife junkie. I like them all if they are made well. But if money were no object and I could only have one or two, I'd have to say my favorites when it comes to no frills, rugged, get it done every time, I would pick an L T Wright GNS scandi grind with the micarta handle and a Gransfor carving axe. The long sweeping face of the carving axe does a great job of skinning and scraping hides and is shaped some what like an Ulu blade. Works as a cleaver or a food chopper. Could double as a hammer if needed. The GNS is an awesome heavy duty bush craft knife with a handle that just fits me like a glove. Love the weight of it. Love the sharpened thick spine and great grade of steel and full length tang.

But like I said, I love em all


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## zero762

I'm currently using a Becker bk2 and a bk 7 as my edc knives but on my person I use a bench made with a tanto edge


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## AgentFlounder

Some years ago, I went with a friend's suggestion and got a Benchmade Griptillian with the Mel Pardue modified drop point in D2 (after brief research on blade metallurgy). I knew right away it was the best knife I'd ever had, but I didn't realize just how truly excellent Benchmades were until recently. It's been great for EDC and hunting the last 5+ yrs. 

So, that'd be what I'd want for many kinds of bad situations. Using it a lot I've gotten real comfortable with it. The lock mechanism is awesome and I can open and close it fast and safe. I can't bring myself to own a liner lock. I guess I got spoiled 

But I'd also want my Victorinox Huntsman with me. After going through a "phase" of being obsessed with vintage pocket knives, and picking up a variety, I came to a much greater appreciation for the SAK. It's come in handy more times than I can remember and it's really a quality piece.

I should probably EDC both, actually. I need a better carrier/sheath/whatever for the SAK, though.

I kinda think it's better to have a knife you carry and use daily than only have something unfamiliar in a BOB but I'll still likely stash some of the vintage pocket knives in my bags, vehicles, camping box, etc., because any knife is better than no knife!


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## BlackOps

Where can I find a Benchmade for a reasonable price?


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## camo2460

BlackOps said:


> Where can I find a Benchmade for a reasonable price?


Try Smoky Mountain Knife Works. com


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## BlackOps

camo2460 said:


> Try Smoky Mountain Knife Works. com


Thanks camo


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## JoshSelf

Becker BK3 and Gerber LMF II. Both are very sturdy and have a good full tang construction


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