# Enclosed trailer for towing



## 21601mom

I'm writing to request some input on the size of an enclosed trailer, which I plan to use for general towing. The SUV I just purchased can tow 5,000 lbs; I plan to tow no more than 4,000 lbs.

I am considering a 4x6 (gvwr 2,000) or 5x8 (gvwr 5,000). The smaller trailer is obviously cheaper, but a lot smaller (only 5 feet high). Since I don't plan to tow all that much, I am leaning toward the smaller 4 x 6 trailer. First item to be towed is a 600 lb safe.

Would love to hear your thoughts, especially if you've gotten a smaller trailer and later regretted it. The 4x6 is $1,000 and the 5x8 is $1,500 (thanks to Uncle Joe and others for reminding me to look on CraigsList).


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## Dakine

nice thread, trailers are on my mind as well since I'm planning on buying property in the very near future and will need to start making improvements and bringing various things there.

Looking forward to the replies that I hope will help both of us! :2thumb:


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## mosquitomountainman

We're looking too but we want an eight-foot bed. That way we can haul paneling and plywood.


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## oldasrocks

I have a 16 ft stock trailer I redid into a fully enclosed unit. I've pulled it everywhere loaded heavy and it has 6,000 lb axles. I pulled it mostly with a Ford 1/2 ton PU and small 8 cylinder. Other than kicking off the overdrive when towing and no problems.

I have also pulled those square shaped cargo trailers and it pulled harder with less weight. I think the aerodynamics of a stock trailers round nose makes a large difference pulling it.


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## cqp33

Dakine said:


> nice thread, trailers are on my mind as well since I'm planning on buying property in the very near future and will need to start making improvements and bringing various things there.
> 
> Looking forward to the replies that I hope will help both of us! :2thumb:


Dakine,
A recommendation is that if you get one you get a bigger one than what you think you need, especially if you are going to be making improvements to property over time on your spare time. Here is why - You most likely won't want to leave your tools on your property unattended so having a mobile storage for the tools you will need on your property is a necessity! I have done the same thing over the last 10 years, wife and I bought 34 acres in 2004 and are just now building on it. We live 25 miles now but I recently retired from the Navy so we have traveled to our land to work on it for a couple weeks every summer, clearing out areas and building things like a firewood shed in preparation for my retirement. We have a 5' X 10' trailer and hauled a 4 wheeler, utility trailer, chain saws, oil, gas, hoe, shovels, hammers, nails, gate hardware, ETC in it and in the bed of the truck as well. I wish I had one bigger but made due with this one. IMO anything under 10' long is to small and you will not be satisfied with it, I also built a small work bench that folded down once the 4 wheeler was out of it.
Just a recommendation for all of you thinking about this topic, think about what you will haul before you buy!

Edited to add this - If you are hauling a heavy item such as a safe like mentioned above, be sure to center the weight over the axle. You probably know this but it needed to be said. Stay away from dump type trailers too like for lawn mowers, the center of gravity on those is messed up and they are tricky if you aren't familiar with them, have one, hate it, welded it to not be a 'tilt load' trailer and use a ramp to load the wheeler and mower in!


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## 21601mom

Thanks for the great responses! I'm now leaning toward the 5x8; it's more than I think we will need, but it would allow hauling of sheetrock, plywood, etc.

Regarding the loading, I had read to place the heaviest item over the axle for proper balancing and I wonder if you have a preference on door type. Am looking at this one with a ramp.

http://easternshore.craigslist.org/grd/4287649320.html

The picture makes it look like the trailer is tilted back when the ramp is down. Also, any thoughts on how the ramp would handle 600 lbs?


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## Tirediron

Make sure to measure the inside dimensions to see if a sheet of plywood will actually fit. the ramp should hold a fair bit of weight, but for loading heavy things a couple of 2x8 planks to distribute the load would be good idea. Can you stand up in it ? the easy grease hubs are a big service bonus. so is the colour. the bumper tool box is a bonus too. 
I have a larger tandem axle enclosed trailer that I use to haul large mechanics tool chests and equipment. it has a ramp door, I would rather have barn doors for my application, the ramp gets slippery easily, but most of these trailers are bought to haul something with wheels.


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## partdeux

what SUV did you get? 5,000 sounds low for an SUV.

If you get to a heavier trailer, please get one with trailer brakes. This is nothing more exciting than trying to stop when operating near max trailer wt. Please pay attention to total vehicle gross weight too. Just because you think you can tow 5k, it may mean only driver in the vehicle.

Longer tongue and preferably dual axle trailer generally lead themselves to easier backing up.

Please check all the light to ensure they are wired properly, and before driving each time, check the brake lights. That's easy to do by turning on the 
E'flasher on the SUV.


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## LincTex

partdeux said:


> what SUV did you get? 5,000 sounds low for an SUV.


It's Volvo... roughly the size of a Chevy Trailblazer?

ALWAYS get a bigger trailer than what you think you will need. I wouldn't take a 4x6 size if you gave it to me (unless you wouldn't be offended when I SELL IT and buy a bigger trailer!)

5x8 just barely qualifies... like the others say, make sure you can load 4x8 sheets and still be able to close the hatch.

I have a 4x8 trailer that I have had for over 20 years and hardly ever use it because it is so small. When rebuild it it is going to become a 5x10, and no smaller than that. My 16 foot flatbed (68" between the rails) is rated 7500 and gets used all the time. I hauled a washer and dryer set on it the other day... A little overkill, but it was already hooked up 

Just because its rated 7500 doesn't mean I have to use all of it. Most of the time my loads are around 4000 lbs or less.


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## cnsper

Double axles are also a good idea. If you have to "bug out" you do not have to waste a lot of time on the side of the road. Chain and binder will lift the axle with a flat tire off the ground so you can still drive and get to a safer location to actually put the spare on.

Just because it says it can only tow 5k that does not mean that it will not do more in an emergency situation where rules do not apply.


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## 21601mom

Well, at least this is turning out like most of my ideas...starts on a budget and ends with me spending twice as much as my budget!

In all seriousness, the comments have been very helpful. I'm now looking at several 6x12 trailers (that's about as big as I can get away with when I bring it home and show my hubby). The cost isn't that much more than the 5x8, which surprised me. My hitch is rated for 5,000 lbs, so I would try (even in an emergency) not to exceed that amount. Pic of new SUV posted below-this will be the towing vehicle.

You guys are just the best! One day soon I need to develop a list of all the things you've helped me research and buy over the past year. I'm so grateful! I'll post a pic once I finally buy one.


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## oldwildheart

I had a conversation with a military friend of mine. He has a collection of weapons but no good fixed address. 

I suggested he buy an enclosed trailer with a good latching system on the back. Install a gun safe in the trailer and park it in one of those storage rental places with better security, some security being better than none.

Once the trailer is parked, put the trailer up on jacks and remove the wheels and store them in the trailer.

Additionally he could have a monthly check sent automatically to the storage rental place from his bank. That would ensure he did not miss a payment.

Any thoughts?


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## jeff47041

oldwildheart said:


> I had a conversation with a military friend of mine. He has a collection of weapons but no good fixed address.
> 
> I suggested he buy an enclosed trailer with a good latching system on the back. Install a gun safe in the trailer and park it in one of those storage rental places with better security, some security being better than none.
> 
> Once the trailer is parked, put the trailer up on jacks and remove the wheels and store them in the trailer.
> 
> Additionally he could have a monthly check sent automatically to the storage rental place from his bank. That would ensure he did not miss a payment.
> 
> Any thoughts?


No. That's a bad idea...He should store them at my house! Seriously though, trailers are so easy to break into. My job trailer had a great, uncuttable lock, so they just cut the whole thing that holds the lock and emptied it. 
The sides of trailers are just aluminum outside and plywood inside. My nephews trailer just had a hole cut in the side, with what we figure was a cordless sawzall, and emptied.


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## jeff47041

21601mom, ditto on everything that people have told you. My 14' box trailer with swinging doors on the back and a homemade ramp, with a little side door is great. Easy to back, and easy access to my stuff.

Tandem axles with brakes. I've seen many (well 2) single axle trailers flipped on the side of the interstate because they blew a tire. I've blown tires on my tandem axle and you don't even know until you see smoke. And it's easy to pull the one that's not blown right up on 2 boards to change the blown one. Don't even need to use a jack.

My 5x8 box trailer is not 8' on the inside. this is a single axle, and I paid an extra $400 to have brakes put on it. (All they do is switch axles from the non-brake kind to one with brakes) 

My 16' tilt trailer is great for hauling my bobcat and tractors. But if you try to haul materials (long lumber) it weaves really bad. you just can't load a tilt trailer correctly.

If you get a trailer with brakes, charge the breakaway battery occasionally.

If you get the 5x8 and use it for a couple of years, you can always trade it in on a bigger one down the road if you decide you need more trailer.


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## jeff47041

One more thing. If you're not great at backing a trailer, take it to an empty parking lot and stay there until you are great. I taught my sister to back a trailer this way.


Right away, get used to only using the mirrors. Never turn your head and try to back a trailer by looking out the back window.

Just back up trying your best to stay right next to the ends of the parking lot markers. Back all the way around the place,(many times) making right and left turns. And back into parking spots.

Put some stuff in the parking lot so that it's like a windy (curvy) road and get great at backing around the curves with both the left and the right sides of the trailer. 

Practice, practice, practice... and you'll be great at it.


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## LincTex

21601mom,

What's your budget?

Here is a 7x16 enclosed cargo for $2995:

http://easternshore.craigslist.org/rvd/4313655640.html

New 6x12 for $2200
http://easternshore.craigslist.org/hvd/4303591165.html

oh..... you are definitely going to need an auxiliary transmission cooler.


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## GrinnanBarrett

take your towing capacity and cut it in half. The 5,000 pound rating is the max your vehicle can take safely. At the maximum capacity your SUV will feel like it is towing a boat on sand. I would figure a nice 5x8 trailer will do. Look for a used unit. New GOOD ones cost a lot. Bargain trailers tend to be just that. A good trailer should use Radial Tires not bias ply. The skin of the trailer should feel solid not like a beer can. If they used screws to attach the siding look for ones popping out. 

Go inside the trailer and see if light is coming through at spots to be sure you are water tight. Check the axles to be sure they are not broken down. Look to see if they have wood panels on the inside of the shell to avoid punch out of cargo into the siding. 

Check on line to see other people's comments. GB


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## LincTex

GrinnanBarrett said:


> take your towing capacity and cut it in half. The 5,000 pound rating is the max your vehicle can take safely. At the maximum capacity your SUV will feel like it is towing a boat on sand.


Well, like everything... it depends...
I have pulled gross (trailer plus load) near 7000 lbs with my Ford Ranger.

I have pulled 18,000 lb loads with a gooseneck trailer and a 3/4 ton truck.

"Hot Shot" trucks (1-ton diesel dually pulling a 40' gooseneck trailer) go over 35,000 lbs 
(a standard 18-wheeler semi truck has max gross of 80,000lbs)


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## cnsper

LincTex said:


> Well, like everything... it depends...
> I have pulled gross (trailer plus load) near 7000 lbs with my Ford Ranger.
> 
> I have pulled 18,000 lb loads with a gooseneck trailer and a 3/4 ton truck.
> 
> "Hot Shot" trucks (1-ton diesel dually pulling a 40' gooseneck trailer) go over 35,000 lbs
> (a standard 18-wheeler semi truck has max gross of 80,000lbs)


I drive a Dodge 5500 with a 40' gooseneck. I have grossed out at 46,500 and was good on all axles, barely! Getting the weight on the front axle is the hard part.

On a semi they are limited to 80k because of the govt but if you look at the individual components and the manufacturer ratings, you can load a basic tandem axle with a tandem axle trailer with 94k lbs and be safe. You can overload these and be alright in an emergency situation but not legal without extra axles.

OP said the hitch was rated at 5,000 pounds. That is different than the vehicle limit. Probably pretty close though. Remember, in an emergency situation the weight limits have a margin of safety built into them. Don't be afraid to pack more stuff. Like on SEMI trucks, tandem axles are limited to 34k pounds but the axles are usually rated at 20k pounds each.


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## 21601mom

LincTex said:


> 21601mom,
> 
> What's your budget?
> 
> Here is a 7x16 enclosed cargo for $2995:
> 
> http://easternshore.craigslist.org/rvd/4313655640.html
> 
> New 6x12 for $2200
> 
> http://easternshore.craigslist.org/hvd/4303591165.html
> 
> oh..... you are definitely going to need an auxiliary transmission cooler.


Well my budget was much bigger, like when I planned to get a Suburban and a new trailer, but alas, Barry said I haven't paid my fair share, so my $5,000 budget for the trailer has been shot. (Yes, ranting, but I'm sick of it. Maybe those people that want their fair share of my money should do their fair share of work!)

I'm looking at three 6x10 trailers now; one is an '08 for $1800, one is a '99 for $1100, and one is a'00 for $2,000.
Here is the '08: http://baltimore.craigslist.org/rvs/4309190166.html. 
Here is the '99: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Avenger-Trailer-6-by-10-/201029907326?pt=Trailers&hash=item2ece50f37e. 
Here is the '00: http://baltimore.craigslist.org/grd/4274626522.html
Both are single axle trailers without independent brakes. If one had to rate the importance of tandem axles and brakes, how would you rate it on a scale of 1 to 10? It would be great for me to pay around $1,000-1,500, but if I'm making a big mistake please tell me.

A bit of history about my experience...I spent about half of my youth growing up on my grandparents farm and I spent a lot of time in the fields driving a tractor, often towing a 20' flatbed trailer (notice I said youth...so, it's been about 25 years since I've towed anything). Plan to practice before I make the drive from MD to TX.

And thanks for the idea on the auxiliary transmission cooler--it's going to my mechanic on Thursday and I will ask him to price it for me.


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## partdeux

Good tires and relative access to repair shops AND A SPARE TIRE, and you'll be ok with a single axle

Most towing capacity is limited by brake capability and engine cooling. If you're going to be near capacity, then brakes can be an asset.


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## cnsper

This was my last load hauled 400 miles.....



















Funny thing is, that load was less than 20k pounds, including the trailer. Probably grossed close to 30k

Single axle and tire blows you will be buying a new rim and depending on how it grabs, you can be buying a new vehicle. I have see someone put into a rock wall on a freeway.

I would never own a trailer without 2 axles or dual wheels. preferably duals on a double axle trailer. Seen too many trailers left on the side of the road that were single axle.


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## 21601mom

cnsper said:


> This was my last load hauled 400 miles......


Well I might have to stop by for lessons!


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## Tirediron

If you can budget a tandem axle trailer with brakes, they are safer and far more stable. a tandem with torflex type suspension won't wreck the rim if you have a flat. A single axle with good tires can be ok if you keep good tires on it and drive a little slower. If a trailer starts to whip the worst thing a driver can do is try to correct it, just steer straight ahead if possible and gently slow down, hard braking is a recipe for a wreck.


Longer trailers are easier to pull and back up except for tight corners 

@cnsper: those tanks must be fun in a cross wind,


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## cnsper

21601mom said:


> Well I might have to stop by for lessons!


Nah... What I am trying to get across is that a single axle is probably fine if you are going across town but any further you want double axles.

How many times do you see single axle trailers on the side of the road? Boats, campers, utility trailers etc.

Besides you may not have that SUV forever. Maybe you will get a bigger vehicle that will handle the gross weight of the trailer.


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## oldasrocks

Speaking of a trailer whipping around. Usually does this when a trailer isn't loaded right. Single axle-60% ahead of axle. tandem- weight centered on front axle.


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## 21601mom

@cnsper-excellent point!

Still looking, but the owner of the new 5x8 told me he would take $1,200. It might be worth it for me to get this one for now until I can comfortably afford a nice tandem axle. Will just need to drive carefully and carry a spare tire (or two).


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## 21601mom

oldasrocks said:


> Speaking of a trailer whipping around. Usually does this when a trailer isn't loaded right. Single axle-60% ahead of axle. tandem- weight centered on front axle.


Thanks so much for this info- I had heard conflicting advice on this. Turns out the info wasn't conflicting, but rather incomplete. Placing the load over or in front of the axle makes sense when you know this depends on the number of axles. Thanks again!


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## Tirediron

the 60% rule holds for tandems too, if measured from the center of the 2 axles.

the single axle will probably be fine, if you keep the tires inflated and don't overload it.


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## cnsper

Another thing to think about is getting rid of the P rated tires on the SUV and putting on a thicker LT rated tire. Sidewall roll is another way to lose control of the trailer.


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## oldasrocks

cnsper said:


> Another thing to think about is getting rid of the P rated tires on the SUV and putting on a thicker LT rated tire. Sidewall roll is another way to lose control of the trailer.


Excellent suggestion. Tires need to be heavy enough to carry the load as well as springs and axle. Even if you run duels you need each tire able to carry the whole load in case one goes flat.

Once I stopped to help a motorhome with both duels blowed out. They had 4 ply tires on it. He said the tire salesman told him that each tire would carry half the load.


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## LincTex

I have had tires go bad on a single axle trailer, and it didn't ruin the rim because I stopped as soon as it happened. But when the time comes when they go, they usually explode.

Also, always buy load range D or better tires... NEVER anything less. If the seller says "It has new tires!" and it has load range C tires, use that to negotiate and plan to sell your "new" load C tires on Craigslist to pay for the better ones!

On a single axle trailer, you need to run the best tires you can at all times. 
On my tandem axle trailer, I run the crappiest most worthless tires in existence!  I can change one in three minutes flat. I have one spare mounted on the tongue hitch and for long trips I toss another spare in the bed. I have never needed both spares.

WHEEL BEARINGS! The only time I have ever had to let a single axle trailer sit was when wheel bearings went bad. Once was an empty trailer (go figure? Would have thought it happened when loaded) and the other time was a boat with all the coolers, life jackets etc. all still in the boat. That one was a CATASTROPHIC failure, with little greasy rollers and chucks of cast iron scattered throughout the whole intersection! I had to cobble it together with another wheel hub and the wrong bearings to get it home. That instance ruined the machined area where the bearings sit, so I had to replace the axle.


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## LincTex

I think we will keep coming back to tires for a while... 

Truth is, they are so blasted important!

NEVER run Chinese tires. 
A lot of newer trailers come with Chinese rims (which seem to be fine, actually) with Chinese tires on them. Those tires are only designed to get the *empty* trailer from the dealer/seller to your house or tire shop and that IS IT!!

Never trust Chinese tires to be reliable or safe. Daedong, Ling Long, etc. they may say "DOT approved" but I don't trust them at all.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=55

*Light Truck Tires*
Since light truck tires are often available in multiple load ranges, the appropriate load range is identified immediately following the size's rim diameter in Tire Rack's descriptions.

LT-Metric, LT-Flotation and LT-Numeric tires are branded with their load range (Load Range E or LRE) or their ply rating (10 Ply Rated) on their sidewalls and list their appropriate load range letter in their descriptions as LT245/75R-16 E, 7.50R-15 D or 31x10.50R-15 C.
LT-Metric, LT-Flotation and LT-Numeric Light Truck Tires
Load Range	Ply Rating Max Load Pressure
B	4 35 psi (240 kPa)***
C	6 50 psi (350 kPa)***
D	8 65 psi (450 kPa)***
E	10 80 psi (550 kPa)***
F	12 95 psi (650 kPa)***
***Selected large LT sizes are designed with reduced maximum load pressures

*Special Trailer Service Tires*
Special Trailer Service tires are often available in multiple load ranges. The appropriate load range is identified immediately following the size's rim diameter in Tire Rack's descriptions.

ST-Metric sized special trailer service tires will be branded with their load range (Load Range D or LRD) on their sidewalls and list their appropriate load range letter in their descriptions as ST205/75R15 LRD.
ST-Metric Trailer Service Tires
Load Range	Ply Rating	Markings	Max Load Pressure
B	4	B	35 psi (240 kPa)
C	6	C	50 psi (350 kPa)
D	8	D	65 psi (450 kPa)
E	10	E	80 psi (550 kPa)


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## 21601mom

Well, I have spent the last few hours reading everything I could about tires! So much to learn!

I'm pretty sure I'm getting this trailer; it's a 2013 CarryOn 5x8. The toolbox is not included and I talked him down to $1,200. Getting it titled and tagged will be a pain, but hopefully it won't be too bad. First order of business...get D rated tires on the trailer and get two spares.


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## Tirediron

you could just get 2 new D rated tires (if they exist in that size) and rims and keep the ones on the trailer for spares


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## HamiltonFelix

I can't tell what's on that trailer, but I know for sure you can get D rated trailer tires in 225/75R15. That's what eventually replaced the original passenger all season "blems" in 235/75R15 that came with my car trailer back in 1988.


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## 21601mom

Picking up trailer this evening. Have appointment at tire place tomorrow morning to have Carlisle D rated tires mounted and old C rated tires will be my spares. I'm going to buy an extra rim and have one of the C rated tires mounted in case I need to make a quick change. Not cheap, about $250 total, but worth the piece of mind for a 1400 mile drive! Thanks again for everyone's help!


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## cnsper

I was talking about the tires on the SUV. Those will need to be checked also. Probably more important than the trailer tires for control of the combined vehicles.


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## 21601mom

cnsper said:


> I was talking about the tires on the SUV. Those will need to be checked also. Probably more important than the trailer tires for control of the combined vehicles.


Gotcha! Plan to discuss LTs with the tire guy tomorrow. Am expecting that to be pretty expensive.

The gvwr of the trailer (fully loaded) is 2,990 lbs.

And I have to say that I'm ecstatic about this purchase! I know it's a small trailer, but it has brought me a sense of peace knowing that I can haul stuff as needed and could use this if we ever had to bug out. Just can't thank all of you enough for your advice! Preparedness is awesome!


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## partdeux

Build some tiedowns into the floor


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## 21601mom

partdeux said:


> Build some tiedowns into the floor


There are four there already-two in front/two in back. Should I add more?


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## Tirediron

this rail system is very nice for tying smaller stuff down , I have it in my trailer where the tool boxes aren't. 
http://www.motorcycleramps.com/tie_down_track.htm

I am sure that you will really enjoy your trailer. If no one has mentioned it a hitch lock is also a good investment,


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## 21601mom

Thanks Tirediron; love that system! Thanks so much for the link!

I never knew hitch locks existed until I talked to the guys at etrailer.com. (this is not an ad for them, but they really helped me with my purchase.) I did end up getting the lock as I thought it would be more secure.


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## Tirediron

I have a couple of other tips, find out how the interior light is powered, if it uses tow vehicle battery, make sure that it cannot drain your battery if left on, IE the tow vehicle needs to be running to power the light, the easiest thing to do is take the bulb out and mount a couple of battery powered led lights, it really sucks when you go to start the truck and the batteries are dead cause the trailer interior light got left on by accident, Also if it has brakes the charge system for the break away can slowly drain the tow vehicle battery if wired always hot.


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## LincTex

Tirediron said:


> Also if it has brakes the charge system for the break away can slowly drain the tow vehicle battery if wired always hot.


Call me weird, but I always wired in a diode (to prevent backfeed) and connected to the trailer running/tail light circuit. Anytime the park/head lamps are on = the battery is charging. I figured that was the easiest way to do it. It cost me about ten minutes time, and the wiring/diode was free from a junk TV set.


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## Tirediron

It is hard to get to my own stuff to make improvements, when I spend so much of my time fixing other peoples junk, a couple of relays would fix my drain problems, but it just hasn't happened yet, your Diode method is the solution several manufacturers used for the 6 wire trailer cords when break aways first needed charging systems, but their's was in kit form and costly


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## LincTex

Tirediron said:


> your Diode method is the solution several manufacturers used... but theirs was in kit form and costly


That's funny. 
18" of scrap wire and an $0.08 diode costly?


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## 21601mom

Tirediron said:


> I have a couple of other tips, find out how the interior light is powered, if it uses tow vehicle battery, make sure that it cannot drain your battery if left on, IE the tow vehicle needs to be running to power the light.


I learned tonight, as it became darker, that the light only comes on when the tow vehicle is running. The light is quite bright, but I like your idea of adding battery operated led lights. Thanks!


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