# Drop pipe and sucker rod questions



## Kenny78

I finally, through much tribulations, have my windmill force pumps and cylinders. One stand and cylinder will be mothballed for future trading/selling but I am installing one now in my well house. It will be replacing a defunct submersible. 

What is the best drop pipe? Galvinized or schedule 80 PVC. And what size? I know the 3x10 cylinder and the stand is 1-1/4" The submersible has 1" drop pipe about 100' and I am planning to put the cylinder at 70-80 feet with another 20-30 further down. 

What kind of supply house will carry suitable sucker rod? And what material should that be? 

For those in the know, do I need a foot valve in addition to the leather check valve? My inclination says yes

I am planning to build a flange so the stand will properly meet the 6" we'll casing
Thank you guys for the advice


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## Kenny78

Ok, just reread some of well drillers post and saw that he recommends a brass foot valve. And he uses sched. 80 PVC drop pipe.

What is the opinion of using the 1" drop pipe fom the electric?


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## Kenny78

Small update, most well drillers don't even know what pump rod is.one suggested that I replace the faulty submersible. One place in tulsa has halfway reasonable prices, but will take a while to get the pipe and rod in stock. Found a well driller local that is checking on prices, but will have to order as well. 

One fellow talked about having used 1/2" sched 80 pvc. Anyone heard of that? I could figure an adapter at he cylinder and I could probably adapt at the .750 stuffing rod that I am replacing. 

Another surprise, one foot below the well cap it turns to threaded pvc. Grrr, the clamp I built wont hold on the pvc without fearing that ill crush it. So, I will add rubber to the angle iron sandwich .


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## Well_Driller

You should use a foot valve at the bottom of the pipe coming off the cylinder. You really don't need any more than 25' of pipe below the cylinder because the cylinder can only pull water up from about 25' below it, but it can push the water up 300ft or more with properly sized cylinder on a windmill. We usually put 20' section of pipe with foot valve on the bottom of the cylinder. Pump cylinder should be submerged below your water line at least 20'. Use 1-1/4" drop pipe. 1" doesn't have much room with the pump rods running down inside, the couplings for the smaller pump rods just fit in 1". We use schedule 80 threaded PVC for hand pumps, but windmills have more pumping power than by hand so you might want to consider using either black iron pipe or galvanized. Also for windmills they make cylinders for those where you can pull the plunger out without having to pull all the drop pipe, but your drop pipe for those will be same size as cylinder... most of those type i've seen are 2".


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## Well_Driller

I forgot to mention, use stainless steel pump rods and if it has the potential to freeze, you need to drill a 1/8" weep hole in the drop pipe below your frost level.


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## Kenny78

Thanks for the advice, I have found at least one semi local person with reasonable prices.

I should have clarified. I do want a windmill but am going to wait until I find an oold one at a semi reasonable price. I suspect I will never find one at a price I am willing to pay that is restorable, my short range plans are to simply have the capability. Also, finding a force pump without a windmill rod seems unusual.

My shorter term goal for automation is to find a pump jack. As much for the neat antique as utility


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## JustCliff

Well Driller: I need some SS pump rods, about 50 feet worth. Where would be a good place to get them from?


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## Well_Driller

JustCliff said:


> Well Driller: I need some SS pump rods, about 50 feet worth. Where would be a good place to get them from?


You can get it from Lehmans, we have a local supplier I normally go through, but sometimes we order the rod and thread them. If you are able to thread it yourself it may be cheaper to do it that way. I believe you can also buy it from Bison too. Also if drop pipe is 1" you'll need 3/8". It's usually either 3/8" or 7/16". I always use the 3/8" as it's lighter and can be used in 1" drop pipe.


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## Well_Driller

Kenny78 said:


> Thanks for the advice, I have found at least one semi local person with reasonable prices.
> 
> I should have clarified. I do want a windmill but am going to wait until I find an oold one at a semi reasonable price. I suspect I will never find one at a price I am willing to pay that is restorable, my short range plans are to simply have the capability. Also, finding a force pump without a windmill rod seems unusual.
> 
> My shorter term goal for automation is to find a pump jack. As much for the neat antique as utility


Both Baker Monitor and Dempster make force hand pumps that will work with a windmill. They come standard with the handle for hand pumping. You just unhook the handle when hooked up to the windmill, but if you buy new, it's not cheap.


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## JustCliff

Well_Driller said:


> You can get it from Lehmans, we have a local supplier I normally go through, but sometimes we order the rod and thread them. If you are able to thread it yourself it may be cheaper to do it that way. I believe you can also buy it from Bison too. Also if drop pipe is 1" you'll need 3/8". It's usually either 3/8" or 7/16". I always use the 3/8" as it's lighter and can be used in 1" drop pipe.


I have the 1 1/4". I will get the 7/16". I have a good amount of 3/8" stainless rod and was thinking of using it but wanted something a bit more stiff. I do have the ability to thread the rod. I guess I will check later on this week and see how much it will hurt me to get the 7/16".


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## Well_Driller

If you're cylinder is only down 60ft or so, you 3/8" will work just fine. It's lighter. We use it for 60 - 70ft installations all the time. Only thing is you'll need an adapter coupling possibly, most of the cylinder assemblies use 7/16" rod, and baker monitor uses 7/16" on pump head too. You'll have to check your cylinder and pump head.


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