# Don't Buy King Craft Generators



## JayJay (Nov 23, 2010)

I'd like to spread the word about King Craft Generators...I started mine for 7 months, no problem. Eighth month wouldn't start...dh couldn't even get it started, and he's tried for 2 months.
I can't return it to Aldi's because I can't find the receipt.DUH!
Customer service told ME to replace the spark plug first and then clean the carburetor.
Dh has used every tool in his 3 tool boxes and can't get SP out; was taking machine apart to get to SP, but we decided to sell it to a guy who knows how to fix them--at a discount.
Now, of course they won't service the generator since I have no receipt; but one tech said: IF I DON'T USE THE GENERATOR ALL THE TIME, THE SPARK PLUG WILL NEED REPLACING AND I WILL HAVE PROBLEMS!!!
Excuse me...I will have problems??? Stupid me--and I thought generators were for power outages backup!! Stupid me!!
That the company wanted ME to replace the spark plug and clean the carburetor is quite telling...and that was BEFORE they learned I had no receipt. We never used this machine.
I'd like to share this to keep any from making our mistake.
This may save you any inconvenience and I'm still wondering how well it would have held up if replacing parts and cleaning carburetors are required and it hasn't been used. You wouldn't want this reaction in an emergency--which is why you start your generator every month.
Peace....JayJay

King Craft
6000 Watt Generator
Item #1705-11
Toll Free...888 896 6881


----------



## JustCliff (May 21, 2011)

Check your low oil shut off. If you have plenty of oil in the motor, try bypassing the switch. The engine looks like a Chinese made Honda clone. I have had problems with 2 engines of similar design that wouldn't start. I bypassed the low oil switch and they fired right up. Aside from that they ran great, better then I expected.


----------



## Davarm (Oct 22, 2011)

In gasoline generators used for backup, a common problem is fuel, always put a fuel stabilizer in if you dont use it much. Thats probobly why they told you to check the plug and carb.


----------



## TommyJefferson (May 12, 2010)

Thanks for the heads-up.


Side-note: I've made it my habit to photocopy my receipts for large purchases because the register receipts they give you nowadays fade away over time. 

I think it's the thermal laser paper they print them on. Copies made on my ink jet printer last many years.

An alternative is to photograph the receipt with your cell phone, webcam, etc., then upload the image to your favorite storage. I like Google docs and Photobucket.


----------



## Davarm (Oct 22, 2011)

TommyJefferson said:


> Thanks for the heads-up.
> 
> I think it's the thermal laser paper they print them on. Copies made on my ink jet printer last many years.


Just keep those receipts printed on thermal papper off the dashoard of your car when the sun is out.


----------



## VUnder (Sep 1, 2011)

You could have that kind of problem with any engine, at any time. I have dealt with spark plugs stuck so bad that I had a 3/4" breaker bar and was sitting on top of the engine with my feet on the firewall and had to put my back into it to get it to move just a little... There is nothing wrong with learning about engines and carburetors, and how to take one completely down and put together and pre-set it to start right up when installed. I took the head off a large V8 engine last week, it fired up on the first try. I also put a kit in a 20 hp briggs on a water well drilling rig, and it fired right up also. On the small engines, it either ain't gettin gas or it ain't gettin fire. Sometimes spark plugs will fire in the open when grounded, but will not fire under combustion pressures. I usually check that by leaving the spark plug wire un hooked and maybe a half inch away from the plug tip and crank the engine, sometimes they will run this way but not with the wire installed correctly. Feel free to ask questions.


----------



## JayJay (Nov 23, 2010)

JustCliff said:


> Check your low oil shut off. If you have plenty of oil in the motor, try bypassing the switch. The engine looks like a Chinese made Honda clone. I have had problems with 2 engines of similar design that wouldn't start. I bypassed the low oil switch and they fired right up. Aside from that they ran great, better then I expected.


Oh, you may have solved the problem...there is a notice on the motor..which I read!!!don't know why!!--it says this will not start if oil is low, because of the OIL SENSOR...thanks, dude.


----------



## JayJay (Nov 23, 2010)

TommyJefferson said:


> Thanks for the heads-up.
> 
> Side-note: I've made it my habit to photocopy my receipts for large purchases because the register receipts they give you nowadays fade away over time.
> 
> ...


Good idea--I usually tape my receipts to the back of the manual for large purchases...but, not this time...I think my loving, precious dh brought it to me long after purchase and I didn't follow procedure--but try laminating--which is just packaging tape--the item--preserves ink; esp. when you can't run to a printer or out of ink..I live with packaging tape---former teacher!!


----------



## JayJay (Nov 23, 2010)

VUnder said:


> You could have that kind of problem with any engine, at any time. I have dealt with spark plugs stuck so bad that I had a 3/4" breaker bar and was sitting on top of the engine with my feet on the firewall and had to put my back into it to get it to move just a little... There is nothing wrong with learning about engines and carburetors, and how to take one completely down and put together and pre-set it to start right up when installed. I took the head off a large V8 engine last week, it fired up on the first try. I also put a kit in a 20 hp briggs on a water well drilling rig, and it fired right up also. On the small engines, it either ain't gettin gas or it ain't gettin fire. Sometimes spark plugs will fire in the open when grounded, but will not fire under combustion pressures. I usually check that by leaving the spark plug wire un hooked and maybe a half inch away from the plug tip and crank the engine, sometimes they will run this way but not with the wire installed correctly. Feel free to ask questions.


Thanks VUnder--I am not mechanically or electronically inclined---I know my limits..see I'm the daughter of a carpenter/house builder, a man who had only a 6th grade education, and you wouldn't find a corner out of plumb on any of his houses. 
I trimmed out our last house, laid hardwood floor, hung doors, painted, AND even put up a wall or two by myself; but I didn't get his brick-laying gene...I really sucked at that.

But, we are gonna try that bypass the oil sensor dingy.:dunno:


----------



## VUnder (Sep 1, 2011)

JayJay said:


> Thanks VUnder--I am not mechanically or electronically inclined---I know my limits..see I'm the daughter of a carpenter/house builder, a man who had only a 6th grade education, and you wouldn't find a corner out of plumb on any of his houses.
> I trimmed out our last house, laid hardwood floor, hung doors, painted, AND even put up a wall or two by myself; but I didn't get his brick-laying gene...I really sucked at that.
> 
> But, we are gonna try that bypass the oil sensor dingy.:dunno:


My dad was exactly the same way. His dad only went to school for maybe two months. Education has nothing to do with how smart somebody is. I believe you can do it. There is somebody around there like me that will be glad to get you familiar with it.


----------



## RevWC (Mar 28, 2011)

Davarm said:


> In gasoline generators used for backup, a common problem is fuel, always put a fuel stabilizer in if you dont use it much. Thats probobly why they told you to check the plug and carb.


Sounds like the problem to me is the lack of stabilizer as ethanol turns to water that in turn can damage the carb. Have made this mistake


----------



## VUnder (Sep 1, 2011)

RevWC said:


> Sounds like the problem to me is the lack of stabilizer as ethanol turns to water that in turn can damage the carb. Have made this mistake


Now, another real question. How can the alcohol be separated from the gas? I know the alcohol is a problem. Alcohol is harder on the rubber parts in fuel systems. Usually, the water collects in the fuel bowl, corrodes while you are not using it, and it develops holes in the bowl. I have a shop and work on vehicles. I don't think the labels on the gas pumps are telling the truth. I have replaced fuel pumps with full tanks of fuel. The tank had to be emptied. Whole tank seemed to be complete alcohol, did not smell like gas at all. Last weekend I was flagged down by a fire truck driver. He was going to a fire, but alcohol made the diaphragm in the trucks fuel pump go bad. Bad when you have to put the fire truck out before you go to the fire. Will the gas/alcohol separate if left sitting long enough?


----------



## VUnder (Sep 1, 2011)

Sorry, my computer did a restart, and it would have double posted.


----------



## RevWC (Mar 28, 2011)

RevWC said:


> Sounds like the problem to me is the lack of stabilizer as ethanol turns to water that in turn can damage the carb. Have made this mistake


Sorry, Ethanol retains water that damages the carb.

The Problem With Ethanol | Highlands Today


----------



## Jimmy24 (Apr 20, 2011)

Always run your air cooled small engines out of fuel, before putting them up, even if you start it every month. Use the Sta-Bil for alky gas and try to use the higher octane gas. 

I have done this procedure on all of them for the last 30+ yrs and never have one not start when needed. Mowers, gensets, chainsaws, weedeaters, bandsaw mill, everything.

Jimmy


----------



## ZoomZoom (Dec 18, 2009)

For those using StaBil, consider switching to their Marine Formula

It does a better job, especially with Ethanol.


----------



## VUnder (Sep 1, 2011)

Some of the two stroke oil has stabilizer in it, may not be bad to put some two stroke oil in you gas as the gas nowadays is very dry.


----------



## The_Blob (Dec 24, 2008)

VUnder said:


> You could have that kind of problem with any engine, at any time. I have dealt with spark plugs stuck so bad that I had a 3/4" breaker bar and was sitting on top of the engine with my feet on the firewall and had to put my back into it to get it to move just a little... There is nothing wrong with learning about engines and carburetors, and how to take one completely down and put together and pre-set it to start right up when installed. I took the head off a large V8 engine last week, it fired up on the first try. I also put a kit in a 20 hp briggs on a water well drilling rig, and it fired right up also. On the small engines, it either ain't gettin gas or it ain't gettin fire. Sometimes spark plugs will fire in the open when grounded, but will not fire under combustion pressures. I usually check that by leaving the spark plug wire un hooked and maybe a half inch away from the plug tip and crank the engine, sometimes they will run this way but not with the wire installed correctly. Feel free to ask questions.


sounds like you need some PB Blaster for Christmas! :2thumb:


----------



## JayJay (Nov 23, 2010)

Thanks for all the info--we were aware of the bad gas--there is a station here that carries gas for farmers, diesel, and we were just now emptying all our gas cans in the shed and replacing them with that good gas...

We had about 45+ gallons and now will refill those cans. And empty the generator, refill with good gas and try that route.


----------



## VUnder (Sep 1, 2011)

The_Blob said:


> sounds like you need some PB Blaster for Christmas! :2thumb:


Naw, I usually get a call after somebody has exhausted every other avenue. I spent last week getting a 2 1/2" dia pin out of a large hydro ax tree cutting machine. A 30 ton jack wouldn't budge it. If I couldn't get it out, the next step was to call Caterpillar to come here from three hours away. It took a while, but I finally got it out and saved the pin. The pin would have been 250.00 to replace. The guy cut a large tree and a pin on the bottom had fallen out, and he ran over a short stump with a 100' tree in the grabber on the saw head, and it snapped the boom off. Had to replace the whole boom. Got it all together, and learned the tree had broken the saw motor when the ruckus happened. Saw motor was 13,000.00, so logging can be expensive sometimes. In the picture, we built the trailer, that is 32,000 lbs of wood.


----------



## VUnder (Sep 1, 2011)

RevWC said:


> Sounds like the problem to me is the lack of stabilizer as ethanol turns to water that in turn can damage the carb. Have made this mistake


From my Arkansas Ridgerunner moonshine experience, you can never get 100% alcohol anyway. You may get some 195 proof if you really watch what you are doing, but 200 proof is not possible. So, there is some water in the fuel when you buy it. Fuel injection vehicles push it on through, but normally aspirated engines experience a build up of water in the float bowls. I have my engines running and rev them up and close the choke at the same time, pulls it on through with the vacuum of the revving engine wanting to continue to run. I don't ever run one out of fuel and put it up dry, as that is a good way to dry out a diaphragm in a carburetor. Treating with some stabilizer is better, in my opinion. Nothing like going through an entire fuel system on an old vehicle where it is all dried out and crusty. All the rubber parts being craked and shrunk down shriveled up. But, everybody has their way of doing things, but I operate on junk and have a lot of it.


----------



## JayJay (Nov 23, 2010)

VUnder said:


> Naw, I usually get a call after somebody has exhausted every other avenue. I spent last week getting a 2 1/2" dia pin out of a large hydro ax tree cutting machine. A 30 ton jack wouldn't budge it. If I couldn't get it out, the next step was to call Caterpillar to come here from three hours away. It took a while, but I finally got it out and saved the pin. The pin would have been 250.00 to replace. The guy cut a large tree and a pin on the bottom had fallen out, and he ran over a short stump with a 100' tree in the grabber on the saw head, and it snapped the boom off. Had to replace the whole boom. Got it all together, and learned the tree had broken the saw motor when the ruckus happened. Saw motor was 13,000.00, so logging can be expensive sometimes. In the picture, we built the trailer, that is 32,000 lbs of wood.


Dh has been a log buyer/logger/log hauler for about 35 years..he just gave up logging; Caterpillar gave him a bad head for a skidder and after 6 weeks of a back and forth 'transaction, he gave it up; he had lost his sawyer and skidder operator, so WTH..
He's still using his trailer and truck to haul. It's okay--he's too old and too poor in shape to deal with it any longer; my opinion.
We seem to be pallet country, so as long as they exist, he can haul for them.
You be careful out there--one of 'the' most dangerous jobs around..dh watched a man die as he unlatched a chain and the logs came tumbling down.
Yep--it only takes one time to not think, be in a hurry, or just plain ole arrogance factor to lose it all.
Peace...JayJay.


----------



## carlnet (Jul 29, 2010)

VUnder said:


> From my Arkansas Ridgerunner moonshine experience, you can never get 100% alcohol anyway. You may get some 195 proof if you really watch what you are doing, but 200 proof is not possible. So, there is some water in the fuel when you buy it. Fuel injection vehicles push it on through, but normally aspirated engines experience a build up of water in the float bowls.


Hey this is where fun with chemistry comes in. If you want a more pure alcohol (200% until it is exposed to moist air) then you just need to dry it using any number of techniques. For example you can filter it using salt which will absorb the 5% remaining water or slake it using lime which pulls the water out to produce calcium hydroxide. In either situation your alcohol will start trying to pull moisture out of anything it touches (including the air and your skin).

Of course you can just leave it at 85% to 95% purity and mix with benzine at a ration of 2.5 times the water content to keep the water from separating out.

And I am very glad to hear that in your shine days you never produced anything over 95% as it would have chemically burned your throat! 95% is dangerous, but that 5% water provides some protection to the drinker.


----------



## VUnder (Sep 1, 2011)

Ok, Chemist carinet, the question I would like to have answered is, how to get the alcohol out of the gasoline. I would cook it out, but that may not be a good idea. Is there some way to separate it, or filter to get the alcohol away from the gasoline?


----------



## carlnet (Jul 29, 2010)

VUnder said:


> Ok, Chemist carinet, the question I would like to have answered is, how to get the alcohol out of the gasoline. I would cook it out, but that may not be a good idea. Is there some way to separate it, or filter to get the alcohol away from the gasoline?


I am a hack chemist so I am probably not the best person to ask this of. With that said here are a few ideas.

I believe that when you reduce the atmospheric pressure that water boils at a lower temperature. So theoretically you could boil the water and alcohol out of your fuel in a vacuum at a much lower temperature than the gas would ignite at. With that said the alcohol is used to bring the octane rating up in the fuel so after you remove the alcohol you would need to add a few other chemicals back to bring the octane back to spec.

I have also seen the alcohol separate out of marine fuel after it was mixed with water. You could mix your fuel with water and then use a marine water separator and hope you get most of the water out of the fuel. You will of course need to add a replacement for the the alcohol to get your octane back up to spec.

I would want to hear from a petroleum engineer before I used either of these hair brained ideas as either one could cause issues...


----------



## Magus (Dec 1, 2008)

IF its beyond repair,convert it to run on methane,you'll need about 20$ worth of parts and a drill.


----------



## Jimmy24 (Apr 20, 2011)

VUnder said:


> From my Arkansas Ridgerunner moonshine experience, you can never get 100% alcohol anyway. You may get some 195 proof if you really watch what you are doing, but 200 proof is not possible. So, there is some water in the fuel when you buy it. Fuel injection vehicles push it on through, but normally aspirated engines experience a build up of water in the float bowls. I have my engines running and rev them up and close the choke at the same time, pulls it on through with the vacuum of the revving engine wanting to continue to run. I don't ever run one out of fuel and put it up dry, as that is a good way to dry out a diaphragm in a carburetor. Treating with some stabilizer is better, in my opinion. Nothing like going through an entire fuel system on an old vehicle where it is all dried out and crusty. All the rubber parts being craked and shrunk down shriveled up. But, everybody has their way of doing things, but I operate on junk and have a lot of it.


One thing in the conversation, maybe better to stay with one measuement. Concerning alcohol, proof is probably better term to use. When you enterchange % and proof, it can be confusing.

Understand than 200 proof is what is added to gasoline. Anything less will not mix. The water gets in after the alky is added. The trick is to suspend it in small enough droplets so it can pass thru your fuel system and be used in the combustion with as minimum damage as possible. I have been holding fuel for many months thru the years will no real ill effects, but you have to plan and treat the gas to make it work. Plus you have to use it properly. I treat mine with the new Sta-Bil that is for gas with alky in it. Plus you must raise the octane of the gas. I start out with the 93 octane. I add an octane booster to that and the Sta-Bil. I have used gas as old as 14 months old and it did fine. But if it's used in a small engine, you HAVE to run the engine out of gas. You leave gas in the carb, even though it's treated, it WILL give you problems.

I know, it makes the gas soooo high $$$$ but it's already high and an expenisive peice of equipment gets ruined, then you still paid the price, plus loss of use of the equipment.

Just saying.

Jimmy


----------



## VUnder (Sep 1, 2011)

Jimmy, your advice is priceless. I am a little different. I have a lot of old trucks that I keep operating around here. Nothing newer than 79, except a pickup that I run around in. I have a crane that was made in the 60's, two more made in the 70's, a tractor made in the 40's, one from the 50's, nobody around here runs junk as old as I have. On the other hand, it has been a learning experience. I will take your advice and follow it to a Tee to store my fuel. But, when I leave one dry, seems that I always have to take the carburetor off and get all the crusty stuff out of it, blow it out, and put it back together. So, every so often, I load a truck up with a few tools, compressor, battery, and some gas. I go around and fire all these things up. The ones that don't run get turned over a few times with a wrench. I am talking upwards of fifty engines.

I have noticed, and maybe you have too, that there is some kind of black residue in this new gas sometimes. I have seen it in the bottom of a brand new can that I poured the first batch of gas out of. I just worked on a truck that had a lot of it in the bottom of a fuel tank. The guy ordered a new tank because it was thick, tar-like consistency, and gasoline wouldn't cut it either. I imagine fuel injected vehicles just push it on through, but it gives my carbs a heckuva time. Have you seen this?


----------



## Jimmy24 (Apr 20, 2011)

VUnder said:


> Jimmy, your advice is priceless. I am a little different. I have a lot of old trucks that I keep operating around here. Nothing newer than 79, except a pickup that I run around in. I have a crane that was made in the 60's, two more made in the 70's, a tractor made in the 40's, one from the 50's, nobody around here runs junk as old as I have. On the other hand, it has been a learning experience. I will take your advice and follow it to a Tee to store my fuel. But, when I leave one dry, seems that I always have to take the carburetor off and get all the crusty stuff out of it, blow it out, and put it back together. So, every so often, I load a truck up with a few tools, compressor, battery, and some gas. I go around and fire all these things up. The ones that don't run get turned over a few times with a wrench. I am talking upwards of fifty engines.
> 
> I have noticed, and maybe you have too, that there is some kind of black residue in this new gas sometimes. I have seen it in the bottom of a brand new can that I poured the first batch of gas out of. I just worked on a truck that had a lot of it in the bottom of a fuel tank. The guy ordered a new tank because it was thick, tar-like consistency, and gasoline wouldn't cut it either. I imagine fuel injected vehicles just push it on through, but it gives my carbs a heckuva time. Have you seen this?


Hmmm, no I haven't. That is interesting. Does it come in all gas in your area? Or one station? If it comes from everyone, it would be nice to find out if it comes from the same spigot....

Also they used to sell a coating to pour in the gas tank, move the tank around to coat the inside and pour off the excess and let it dry and you got a new tank. Not sure it's still made.

Can you filter it out? A funnel with some clean cloth of some sort may get the stuff out.

In your older stuff, higher octane would really work better too. I started working on them in '69... I worked on them for a living in the 70s including heavy equipment. We also use to add a touch say 3-5% diesel to the gas to add a bit of lube to the juice....helps the gaskets in the carbs...

Carburetors, do have there finicky side.... when we were experimenting with straight alcohol we opened up the jets by about 20-25% IIRC. And made some goofy, but they worked, fuel pre-warmers. Got the idea from MEN. I would have to think if the jetting were opened up a touch, say 5-10% and if you are using the higher octane, you should be able to bump your timing say 3-6 degrees BTO....if no engine knock, it's got to run better. Might be a little aggressive, but it may make the difference...

Jimmy


----------



## Tweto (Nov 26, 2011)

You guys are confusing me. Ethanol based fuels or fuels with Ethanol should not be used in older engines. The Ethanol eats right throught the gaskets and "O" rings. Stop using these fuels! :gaah:

The tacky substance in the bottoms of the gas tanks means your fuel is breaking down and someone forgot to use Sta-Bil or Sea Foam to protect the fuel.

I have been using only regular gas with Sta-Bil for more then 30 years and have never had a problem. My generators will sit with fuel in them for sometimes 6 months or more and they have always started right up. One of my generators is 25 years old and all I have ever done to it is put new batteries in every 5-7 years.

If your problem is water or dirt in the fuel then filter all the fuel before using it. I built a small filtering device that takes all dirt and water out.

Why is fuel a problem!!:scratch


----------



## Jimmy24 (Apr 20, 2011)

Tweto said:


> You guys are confusing me. Ethanol based fuels or fuels with Ethanol should not be used in older engines. The Ethanol eats right throught the gaskets and "O" rings. Stop using these fuels! :gaah:
> 
> The tacky substance in the bottoms of the gas tanks means your fuel is breaking down and someone forgot to use Sta-Bil or Sea Foam to protect the fuel.
> 
> ...


Well obvisley you don't have problems getting gas without it. There are no stations I know of that carry gas without it. All the name brands have it, all the cheapies have it. You might want to look at your gas stations info on the pump a little closer. it was in the fine print here for a long time before folks finannly figured it out. Aviation fuel is out, cause no one will sell to you any more and racing gas at $12 a gallon, come on man....:dunno::gaah:

Jimmy


----------



## VUnder (Sep 1, 2011)

Tweto, the black stuff in the gas can was from gas bought just a few hours before. I went to town and filled the can, came home and poured it in something. Sun was bright and I saw it from the outside of the can. It was thick, tar-like consistency. We have refineries around here, and my uncle said it is a good way to get rid of toxic waste. He is old and retired from GULF Oil. 

Jimmy, will the fuel warmer stop the straight alcohol cold start problem? I remember that they could run fine on alcohol, but when cold, had to be primed with gasoline. I was born in 69.


----------



## VUnder (Sep 1, 2011)

Magus said:


> IF its beyond repair,convert it to run on methane,you'll need about 20$ worth of parts and a drill.


Hello, Magus, plus a methane system, or was it methanol? I will look into it.


----------



## Jimmy24 (Apr 20, 2011)

VUnder said:


> Tweto, the black stuff in the gas can was from gas bought just a few hours before. I went to town and filled the can, came home and poured it in something. Sun was bright and I saw it from the outside of the can. It was thick, tar-like consistency. We have refineries around here, and my uncle said it is a good way to get rid of toxic waste. He is old and retired from GULF Oil.
> 
> *Jimmy, will the fuel warmer stop the straight alcohol cold start problem? I remember that they could run fine on alcohol, but when cold, had to be primed with gasoline.* I was born in 69.


Yep that is what it was for. We had to start with gas and then once the engine warmed up and the water got warm, you could use the alcohol then. Look up some of the old Mother Earth News articles, you'll find lots of info that is hands on, DIY stuff.

Jimmy


----------



## Tweto (Nov 26, 2011)

Thanks for all of you setting me straight. Next time I fuel up I will read the info on the pump. I don't know if fuel in Nebraska in differant then in other locations.

Thanks you all


----------



## VUnder (Sep 1, 2011)

I have a pop bottle half of fuel that I use to prime engines with. It is clear fuel, if you shake it, it looks like that special stuff that Popcorn Sutton makes and shakes. Looks like high proof whiskey. Trucks won't hardly crank cold, and I have manual chokes on them and hot batteries. Does not smell like gasoline at all. 

Fire Dept. flagged me down, they were going to a fire but had a leak. Just a volunteer setup with some old trucks. It was a fuel pump leaking. The driver had gotten down on the floor to smell it, and he still couldn't tell if it was gas. It had no smell. What is this stuff?


----------



## gough (Jan 6, 2012)

I believe that when you reduce the atmospheric pressure that water boils at a lower temperature. So theoretically you could boil the water and alcohol out of your fuel in a vacuum at a much lower temperature than the gas would ignite at.....


----------



## BasecampUSA (Dec 26, 2010)

*Listen up!!*

*We never had that problem up here in Maine till the legislature required 10% ethanol in our gasoline...*

Then all hell broke loose...
Chainsaws, trimmers, mowers, outboards - everything went to sh!t!

*BUT - we found a solution...*

*AVIATION GASOLINE !* - ask anyone here in the state...

No more problems, no $150 repair bills, no starting problems, no running problems... just like it was before the ethanol law.

*There is no ehtanol in aviation gas...*

... and it makes you chainsaw run like a hotrod :2thumb:


----------



## TommyJefferson (May 12, 2010)

JayJay said:


> but try laminating--which is just packaging tape


Great idea! I use packing tape for all kinds of stuff, but never thought of laminating with it. Duh.

Yesterday I was irritated because my recipe for General Tso's Chicken got ruined when I spilled soy sauce all over it. The page was inside one of those plastic page protectors. Crappy ink jet printing has zero moisture resistance. Sauce ran inside the protector.

Packing tape would have prevented that. Thanks!


----------



## TommyJefferson (May 12, 2010)

BasecampUSA said:


> AVIATION GASOLINE !


Interesting. I found my small engines start better with "High Octane" premium gasoline. Aviation Gasoline would make them run even better.

I did some reading here: https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Avgas

Looks like AvGas still has lead in it. I bet retailers won't sell it to me unless I have government elite citizen status like a rich-boy pilot's license.

This site shows AvGas selling for $4.99 in my area: 100LL - Aviation Fuel Prices Well worth the price if I could get it.

Thanks for the heads-up. I will investigate further.


----------



## ZoomZoom (Dec 18, 2009)

I looked at AvGas a couple times but it got pretty pricey and at 105 octane, it could easily burn up some small engines.

Last time I was looking (a couple months ago), I was talking to a mechanic at the airport and he gave me some info:
- You need to add an additive to it for non-aviation use.
- What airports have a pump that you can pull up to. Some use trucks and you won't be buying off of those nor their supplier but other airports have gas pumps that you pull up to, insert your credit card and get your gas.
- No guarantees that it won't toast your engines since most are not made to handle that level of octane.
- There's only one company in the USA that makes something really important in that fuel. Being a sole provider is making engine mfgr's and someone in the gov'n nervous so they may be changing the formula or something like that.


----------



## BasecampUSA (Dec 26, 2010)

_I looked at AvGas a couple times but it got pretty pricey and at 105 octane, it could easily burn up some small engines._

$150 repair bill every 2-3 years is pretty pricey too...

Nobody up here I know has burned up an engine so far, unless they were abusing the equipment.

_Last time I was looking (a couple months ago), I was talking to a mechanic at the airport and he gave me some info:

- You need to add an additive to it for non-aviation use._

Baloney - no one here ever used an additive.

_- What airports have a pump that you can pull up to. Some use trucks and you won't be buying off of those nor their supplier but other airports have gas pumps that you pull up to, insert your credit card and get your gas._

Small airports will sell, you may have to make an appointment or go on the weekends when a lot of private pilots are flying. Myself and most people I know buy it 10 gallons at a time and store it safely in cold dark dry environment. I have had some stored for 3 years with no additives and no problems.

_- No guarantees that it won't toast your engines since most are not made to handle that level of octane._

Like I said, we haven't had any problems that I know of. You get more "mileage" out of av-gas too (in my experience)

_- There's only one company in the USA that makes something really important in that fuel. Being a sole provider is making engine mfgr's and someone in the gov'n nervous so they may be changing the formula or something like that._

I'm sure that will be well researched and publicized before it happens... even one tiny incident and the NTSB will have more say than anyone.

Like I said all the above is from my own experience (after having 3 different chainsaw carburetors repaired @ $125 apiece).

I wouln't be misleading anyone here with B.S. - but you can believe who you want, it's you money.

$5.80 a gallon is mighty cheap insurance for a small engine not having to go in the repair shop because of ethanol degredation in the carburetor.

That doesn't mean you can leave gas in it over winter, the same applies to av-gas... empty the engine and run out what's left in the carb before storing it for winter.

*PS-- I have a King Craft 4500 w generator. It has 12 hours on it so far. Bought it at Aldi for $199 in the autmn of 2008, used it 6 times since, and never had a problem with it.*


----------



## ZoomZoom (Dec 18, 2009)

Not trying to get in a pissing contest with you. I was just stating what was told to me by the mechanic. To each his own. YMMV


----------



## BasecampUSA (Dec 26, 2010)

bczoom said:


> Not trying to get in a pissing contest with you. I was just stating what was told to me by the mechanic. To each his own. YMMV


I know... no problem


----------



## Tweto (Nov 26, 2011)

The mechanics at the airport are not fuel experts. Do your own research!

The EPA wants the lead removed from 100LL fuel, but the problem with that is the FAA doesn't have the money to do the research. Just about all of the current aircraft piston engines were designed for use with lead in the fuel.

The fuel will not be changing any time soon, this issue has been around for 20 years.


----------



## JayJay (Nov 23, 2010)

Hey guys...dh and I finally used all our stored ethanol gas..so now that we have stored non-ethanol gas/pure gas, does it need treatment or not??
Thanks for any comments.


----------



## VUnder (Sep 1, 2011)

Is there a way to separate the alcohol from the gasoline?


----------



## ZoomZoom (Dec 18, 2009)

VUnder said:


> Is there a way to separate the alcohol from the gasoline?


I've found if you drink it, the body absorbs the alcohol and you're expected to pass the gas.  Unfortunately, some of the gas comes out as burps. That's a killer, especially if you smoke. 

FOR ALL YOU KIDS READING, I'M JUST KIDDING!!!! DON'T EVER DO THIS. I just found out the hard way by siphoning gas via sucking. Don't do that either. :surrender:


----------



## Tweto (Nov 26, 2011)

JayJay said:


> Hey guys...dh and I finally used all our stored ethanol gas..so now that we have stored non-ethanol gas/pure gas, does it need treatment or not??
> Thanks for any comments.


I would not even concider not treating any fuel that's stored. I've had treated fuel stored for 5 years and it ran fine.


----------



## ZoomZoom (Dec 18, 2009)

Tweto said:


> I would not even concider not treating any fuel that's stored. I've had treated fuel stored for 5 years and it ran fine.


I'm running marine grade StaBil on my bulk tank and haven't had a problem whatsoever over 2 years.
Untreated fuel is now worthless and sits there waiting for some way to burn it.


----------



## VUnder (Sep 1, 2011)

bczoom said:


> I've found if you drink it, the body absorbs the alcohol and you're expected to pass the gas.  Unfortunately, some of the gas comes out as burps. That's a killer, especially if you smoke.
> 
> FOR ALL YOU KIDS READING, I'M JUST KIDDING!!!! DON'T EVER DO THIS. I just found out the hard way by siphoning gas via sucking. Don't do that either.:surrender:


Hey, since I drink the mountain dews, and tend to use the empty bottles for gas primer bottles, I know the taste of unleaded all too well.


----------



## JayJay (Nov 23, 2010)

Tweto said:


> I would not even concider not treating any fuel that's stored. I've had treated fuel stored for 5 years and it ran fine.


Thanks..will do.


----------



## HamiltonFelix (Oct 11, 2011)

I've never wanted to count on StaBil doing better than one season; put it in the snowblower in spring or the lawnmower in fall. But PRI does last a long time. I've seen gas more than 8 years old, treated with PRI-G (PRI-D is for diesel) when it was put into a motorhome, siphoned out and used in a car with no problems. Of course, that was 1999 gas, so it was not gasohol...

Since octane is a measure of resistance to detonation or pre-ignition, how can high octane fuel "burn up" an engine because it's "not designed for that level of octane?" BTW, most vehicles intended to run on regular will not get better mileage on premium; there's not more energy in gasoline blended to have a bit higher octane. Exceptions would be vehicles (often turbocharged) with knock sensors and engine management systems able to take advantage (via more spark advance or higher boost) of the higher octane fuel. 

Since I'm on a roll: Alchohol has great octane, but less energy than gasoline. If you run alcohol in a sprint car, you can run more compression and more spark advance than with gasoline, but your fuel system has to supply a LOT more fuel. If our governent favored honesty over deceit, they'd make car makes publish EPA fuel mileage figures for cars running on ethanol blends. Most folks know the mileage is worse than with "real" gas. We can certainly see it; there's a Union 76 on my wife's route to work that sells acohol-free gas. 

OH, and on the original topic: Low oil shutdowns on portable generators come in two flavors. The type on the Briggs engine of the cheap 5kw Generac bought at Costco is the kind that closes a circuit to short out the igniton. Just unhook the wire and it will start. The type I've found on Honda engines is the kind that closes a circuit to allow the ignition to function. Unhook that wire and it will never run. I have had a generator or two that were a bit too sensitive on the low oil shutdown. Fill them with oil and you still had to rock them round, making sure the oil sensor was completely covered, before they'd start.

Oh, and thanks for the reminder about avgas. I grew up an "airport brat," thinking "flying" was prop starting a 1946 Aeronca Champion or Mom's J-3 Cub, but it's been many years since I hung around an airport. It should be no problem to pick up a barrel of avgas and store that. Keep it closed and temperature stable, and adding PRI-G would almost be superfluous.


----------



## boss429 (May 10, 2012)

HamiltonFelix said:


> Since octane is a measure of resistance to detonation or pre-ignition, how can high octane fuel "burn up" an engine because it's "not designed for that level of octane?" BTW, most vehicles intended to run on regular will not get better mileage on premium; there's not more energy in gasoline blended to have a bit higher octane. Exceptions would be vehicles (often turbocharged) with knock sensors and engine management systems able to take advantage (via more spark advance or higher boost) of the higher octane fuel.
> 
> Since I'm on a roll: Alchohol has great octane, but less energy than gasoline. If you run alcohol in a sprint car, you can run more compression and more spark advance than with gasoline, but your fuel system has to supply a LOT more fuel. If our governent favored honesty over deceit, they'd make car makes publish EPA fuel mileage figures for cars running on ethanol blends. Most folks know the mileage is worse than with "real" gas. We can certainly see it; there's a Union 76 on my wife's route to work that sells acohol-free gas. superfluous.


High octane fuel is better formulated to keep you from "burning up" an engine than lower octane fuel. I've never had an engine damaged from high octane fuel, ever. I went thru the leaded to unleaded transition and did a lot of research back then(was even a leaded gas horder) .I now have a 1994 vehicle that was desgined for lame 98 octane fuel that is just slowly beating itself to death due to todays 93ish octane ethanol fuel.


----------



## madatkingcraft2 (May 29, 2012)

*Kingcraft junk out of the box*

I bought a new kingcraft generator from aldi food stores and when I got it home, I filled it with oil, filled it with gas, turned on the fuel valve, and finally turned on the switch, turned the choke lever to choke and pulled the pull start....NOTHING! I then called the number for service and waited like 40 min to talk to the agent who is not associated with the manufacture and told me that he will pass this on to his boss and they will be contacting me. well, I would took it back to ALDI and demanded a refund, but the seal on the box and in the box states "IF THIS SEAL IS BROKEN, YOU CANNOT RETURN TO STORE, YOU MUST CALL XXX-XXX-XXXX, after a few days I did not hear back from this acwarrenty place and wrote back to the person whom I spoke to who had me email a copy of the receipt to, and asked " what is going to happen with this worthless generator" and received a reply that my case was forwarded to the claims department and it usually takes 10 business days for them to contact me. well this is BS! ALDI does not have their phone # on the receipt, their number is not listed, I was going to pay by credit card (so that I would be protected) but they don't accept credit cards I had to pay with a debit card but was processed as credit for this reason., they do not want to be bothered and know they sell junk. I emailed the main company ALDI in Illinois and have not received a reply. I cannot find on the web who makes kingcraft or any info for company. so I then filed a dispute with my bank because my debit card has the master card logo and they will be investigating it.
A WARNING TO ANYONE THINKING ABOUT BUYING THIS CRAP...DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT IT!!!!!!!


----------



## The_Blob (Dec 24, 2008)

TommyJefferson said:


> Looks like AvGas still has lead in it. I bet retailers won't sell it to me unless I have government elite citizen status like a rich-boy pilot's license.


hahahahaha I live on an airport and can tell you two things about who they'll sell fuel to:

"money talks, and bull$h!t walks"

"if the cash is there, we do NOT care"

you won't have any problems


----------



## madatkingcraft2 (May 29, 2012)

Just heard from AC-warranty because my bank called ALDI who then contacted them, I found out that kingcraft is made in china and AC-warranty is the distributor of these worthless generators and their address is; 13980 mountain Ave., Chino CA. 91710
they told me that my claim is in process and they will be contacting me. but if I pursue my dispute with my bank, they will cancel the warranty...WTF? so I told her that I will not drop my dispute with bank but put it on hold until I hear from claims and I will not pay for fright to ship back to them. and that i should not have to wait for 2 or more weeks to resolve this issue. so now we wait again


----------



## boss429 (May 10, 2012)

madatkingcraft2 said:


> Just heard from AC-warranty because my bank called ALDI who then contacted them, I found out that kingcraft is made in china and AC-warranty is the distributor of these worthless generators and their address is; 13980 mountain Ave., Chino CA. 91710
> they told me that my claim is in process and they will be contacting me. but if I pursue my dispute with my bank, they will cancel the warranty...WTF? so I told her that I will not drop my dispute with bank but put it on hold until I hear from claims and I will not pay for fright to ship back to them. and that i should not have to wait for 2 or more weeks to resolve this issue. so now we wait again


Don't drop your bank dispute. Just take it back to Aldi, be really polite and see if they will take it back.Rather than saying it's broken just say you didn't have a use for it afterall. I have taken other things that say "don't return to store-blah blah blah" and the store gave me a refund no problem-still in box of course.( Never tried it at an Aldi's though-never been to one)


----------



## JayJay (Nov 23, 2010)

madatkingcraft2 said:


> I bought a new kingcraft generator from aldi food stores and when I got it home, I filled it with oil, filled it with gas, turned on the fuel valve, and finally turned on the switch, turned the choke lever to choke and pulled the pull start....NOTHING! I then called the number for service and waited like 40 min to talk to the agent who is not associated with the manufacture and told me that he will pass this on to his boss and they will be contacting me. well, I would took it back to ALDI and demanded a refund, but the seal on the box and in the box states "IF THIS SEAL IS BROKEN, YOU CANNOT RETURN TO STORE, YOU MUST CALL XXX-XXX-XXXX, after a few days I did not hear back from this acwarrenty place and wrote back to the person whom I spoke to who had me email a copy of the receipt to, and asked " what is going to happen with this worthless generator" and received a reply that my case was forwarded to the claims department and it usually takes 10 business days for them to contact me. well this is BS! ALDI does not have their phone # on the receipt, their number is not listed, I was going to pay by credit card (so that I would be protected) but they don't accept credit cards I had to pay with a debit card but was processed as credit for this reason., they do not want to be bothered and know they sell junk. I emailed the main company ALDI in Illinois and have not received a reply. I cannot find on the web who makes kingcraft or any info for company. so I then filed a dispute with my bank because my debit card has the master card logo and they will be investigating it.
> A WARNING TO ANYONE THINKING ABOUT BUYING THIS CRAP...DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT IT!!!!!!!


Sorry about your troubles...we decided to take ours to our mower repair guru.
$60 and I bet all he did was clean the ***** gas out and we will definitely use pure gas in all our equipment now.
Lesson learned. I still buy from Aldi's but am more cautious about China made.
We searched for a new inexpensive generator at several places, and even Lowe's said made in china.
We're so screwed!!!

Oh, this is the # I found and got the run-around also 
King Craft
6000 Watt Generator
Item #1705-11
Toll Free...888 896 6881


----------



## JayJay (Nov 23, 2010)

boss429 said:


> Don't drop your bank dispute. Just take it back to Aldi, be really polite and see if they will take it back.Rather than saying it's broken just say you didn't have a use for it afterall. I have taken other things that say "don't return to store-blah blah blah" and the store gave me a refund no problem-still in box of course.( Never tried it at an Aldi's though-never been to one)


You didn't understand?? we opened the box...heck, mine was over 8 months old--I had been starting it every month and the 9th month, no go.
Fuel probably clogged all lines.
And, not trying to release myself from ignorance, but I had to really search for a MADE IN CHINA label on that equipment.


----------



## partdeux (Aug 3, 2011)

WRT gas and octane. higher octane contains less Btu energy then lower octane. I would love to see an engine that "burned up" on higher octane gas. I've heard these internet legends beforeand it always comes down to my Uncle who used to build engines said it was possible. Higher octane fuel will allow you take advantage of it's slower burn rate with more spark advance and/or higher compression, and realize a resultant power increase.


----------



## oldwindrow (Jun 25, 2012)

done with a place promoting illegal fantasies that will hurt people.


----------



## JayJay (Nov 23, 2010)

JayJay said:


> You didn't understand?? we opened the box...heck, mine was over 8 months old--I had been starting it every month and the 9th month, no go.
> Fuel probably clogged all lines.
> And, not trying to release myself from ignorance, but I had to really search for a MADE IN CHINA label on that equipment.


Update:
My dh barteredcongrat::congrat::congrat to get the generator serviced and I started it on the second pull. It seems much quieter and runs smoother. I still think it was ***** gas from not using pure gas; will only use pure now.
Will continue to start every month.


----------



## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

ZoomZoom said:


> Untreated fuel is now worthless and sits there waiting for some way to burn it.


How much old gas do you have stored?

Ad 10% lacquer thinner to it (not paint thinner... it isn't the same stuff).

It's all the same, where ever you can get it, but the expensive stuff has been filtered more. No big deal, the cheap stuff has a little lint floating around in it. Not sure why. 5 gallon cans from paint supply stores are usually about $20-$25. I have not bought it in one gallon cans in decades, so I imagine Lowe's or home depot prob charges about $8 a gallon (total rip off).

If the gas is REALLY gummy, make it 20-30% thinner. This method always works for me. I also mix it some with fresh gas before driving with it. I'll never put it back in a generator, or other infrequently used equipment - - since that is usually where it got drained from. My Ford Ranger will eat it and not complain even once. So will my old Harley.



partdeux said:


> I would love to see an engine that "burned up" on higher octane gas.


There is a tiny shred of truth to this... and it is actually related to AvGas, specifically.

AvGas is almost ALL aromatics, mainly toluene and xylene - it is* pure* and would look like water if you took away the blue dye.

It has *none* of the "toxic waste" that "pump" gasoline absolutely has in it.

Because of this, it has a higher specific gravity number... so it is a little bit "thicker" than regular gasoline. If someone who is already on the ragged edge of running too lean uses it, they could then be in the "definitely" too lean range. *THAT* would be the reason for someone getting their engine too hot. It is best to go up a jet size when running AvGas. 
I think AvGas also has a lower Reid Vapor Pressure number.

By the same token, Xylene and Toluene and both readily available from the paint store. I haven't priced any in a long time, but I would be willing to bet that if bought in drums it would be cheaper than AvGas.

I did a little searching on the interweb:

http://thisoldshed.tripod.com/avgas.htm

http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/buick-v6-turbo-tech/22517-toluene-vs-xylene.html

http://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-performance-77/how-make-your-own-race-fuel-669583/

I will say this... if you are using AvGas or xylene or toluene to make today's ugly "pump gas" useable (or to help it store for longer)... you will end up with a lot more "octane rating" than you really, truly *NEED*. If your generator or old tractor would run fine on 87 or even 85 octane and you have 97 in the tank, you are wasting a lot of hard-earned money. I would add some lower octane diesel.

DIESEL!?! Are you (am I) nuts? Nope, not at all. Here's why:

Diesel is much more stable, so it will help with storage life.
Diesel is oily - so it works great as a upper cylinder lube.
Diesel has more BTU per gallon - so the extra energy makes the fuel go longer.
Diesel will protect the rubber parts from the strong solvents.

All of this with no power loss. And I don't have to buy Sta-Bil.

Warning - rejetting is required when running this soup. Easy to do on an old tractor... just twist the mixture screw.

You would need to invest in a #80-#100 drill bit set to add a jet size or two to your Chinese generator. Pretty easy. Been there, done that.


----------



## LongRider (May 8, 2012)

Davarm said:


> In gasoline generators used for backup, a common problem is fuel, always put a fuel stabilizer in if you dont use it much. Thats probobly why they told you to check the plug and carb.


One more reason to use a propane generator. Especially for a SHTF power source. Most people can not store enough gas on site to run a generator for months at a time. Even if you could gas starts to varnish after 6 months. You can easily store a thousand gallons of propane at most homes. It will not deteriorate and still be useable years down the road. Propane burns much cleaner and extends your engine by at least a factor of four. I have a friend who does long distance deliveries in South Dakota with a propane powered truck, last time we talked he had 400,000 plus miles with no major repairs to the drive train.


----------



## Eddie88 (Feb 18, 2014)

I have used generators for thirty years, both mine and the military's. I did my own maintenance and has anyone ever heard of ANTI SEIZE compound. Never had a plug I coundn't turn.


----------



## boss429 (May 10, 2012)

Eddie88 said:


> I have used generators for thirty years, both mine and the military's. I did my own maintenance and has anyone ever heard of ANTI SEIZE compound. Never had a plug I coundn't turn.


Ditto that-Must have stuff! I use "Never Seeze" brand, any steel fastener screwed into aluminum needs it-plugs/mufflers/head bolts any fastener that gets rusty on the part you see needs it on the threads you don't see. Don't get it on your clothes does not wash out and hard to get off hands.


----------



## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

I have been involved with aviation since 1985 (holy crap, has it been almost 30 years?), and when it comes to spark plug threads, this stuff is *hands down* the best you can buy anywhere.

Remember - you mess up threads in an aircraft cylinder, to fix it you start at $2500 and go up from there!!!! 

Champion Aviation Spark Plug Thread Lubricant


----------



## labotomi (Feb 14, 2010)

I like kopr-kote anti sieze. It works good for its intended purpose and it's good to apply to high current electrical connections to reduce the electrical resistance and prevent high temperatures junctions.


----------



## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

labotomi said:


> I like kopr-kote anti sieze. It works good for its intended purpose and it's good to apply to high current electrical connections to reduce the electrical resistance and prevent high temperatures junctions.


That is an interesting use.

NOTE: when putting anti-seize on plug threads, pay super close attention to use only a small amount and to not let the compound anywhere near the business end of the spark plug, or it could foul the plug when the engine warms up and the compound starts to flow.

That is why the Champion Aviation stuff is safer - It is non-flowable under high temps, unlike the metallic anti-seize you find with the brush-in-the-can-lid. The FAA strictly prohibits the metallic anti-seize on aviation engine spark plugs for this very reason. (exhaust systems OK though)


----------



## labotomi (Feb 14, 2010)

LincTex said:


> That is an interesting use.


The difference in before and after temperatures is dramatic. Our IR survey guy couldn't believe the difference.


----------



## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

labotomi said:


> The difference in before and after temperatures is dramatic. Our IR survey guy couldn't believe the difference.


You would think it would become an industry standard? 

The only stuff I have ever used was Gardner-Bender GB OX-100 or OX-400 "Ox-Gard". I always thought it just looked like cheap wheel bearing grease in a tube?


----------



## labotomi (Feb 14, 2010)

LincTex said:


> You would think it would become an industry standard?


Oops, I made a mistake. It's Kopr-Shield not Kopr Kote. They're both anti-sieze copper based lubricants but the Kopr Shield is the only one that mentions electrical connections and conductivity.

http://www-public.tnb.com/shared/inst/ta02448-tb2.pdf


> Description:
> Kopr-Shield™ Compound-The copper colloidal surface treatment that protects, lubricates and enhances conductivity between all electrical connections.


----------



## boss429 (May 10, 2012)

LincTex said:


> I have been involved with aviation since 1985 (holy crap, has it been almost 30 years?), and when it comes to spark plug threads, this stuff is *hands down* the best you can buy anywhere.
> 
> Remember - you mess up threads in an aircraft cylinder, to fix it you start at $2500 and go up from there!!!!
> 
> Champion Aviation Spark Plug Thread Lubricant


Good info gotta get some.


----------



## rwalpole (Jun 2, 2014)

I have a King 950 watt generator I rarely use. Total running time 1 hour. I was using it the other day to operate a weed whacker quite a distance from the house. It ran fine for about 45 minutes and then quit just like it ran out of gas. Turned out it wasn't out of gas I thought maybe it was overheated because the wife ran it none stop under load for the entire time. That wasn't it either . After hours and hours of trying to start it ,and having cleaned the carburater and spark plug as well as checking all electrical connections I gave up and went to the computer to see what they had to say because I felt it had a weak spark compared to what I was used to seeing. Sure enough one of the threads said to change the spark plug no matter what, and sure enough that was the problem after hours of frustration that solved the problem and now it works perfectly. One pull after the new plug problem solved .Since then I have read several notes about the inferior off shore plugs that come in these machines and others and it is strongly recommended to change the spark plug even if you are not having any problems yet. A special thank you to the person that stated in their thread statement to change the spark plug ,because I just couldn't believe that only after a total of 1 hours use that a spark plug that looks so good would have been the problem. Why would any company go to the trouble of producing an inferior article like this when for a few cents more they could produce an adequate product. Also King tools should be aware of this and not put these plugs in any of their machines no matter what the savings in prodution cost. All it does it give them a bad rep to buyers. Again thanks for the heads up on the plug because I had spent hours and a lot of muscle pulling on the start cord. REPLACE THE PLUG !!!!!!!


----------



## JayJay (Nov 23, 2010)

rwalpole said:


> I have a King 950 watt generator I rarely use. Total running time 1 hour. I was using it the other day to operate a weed whacker quite a distance from the house. It ran fine for about 45 minutes and then quit just like it ran out of gas. Turned out it wasn't out of gas I thought maybe it was overheated because the wife ran it none stop under load for the entire time. That wasn't it either . After hours and hours of trying to start it ,and having cleaned the carburater and spark plug as well as checking all electrical connections I gave up and went to the computer to see what they had to say because I felt it had a weak spark compared to what I was used to seeing. Sure enough one of the threads said to change the spark plug no matter what, and sure enough that was the problem after hours of frustration that solved the problem and now it works perfectly. One pull after the new plug problem solved .Since then I have read several notes about the inferior off shore plugs that come in these machines and others and it is strongly recommended to change the spark plug even if you are not having any problems yet. A special thank you to the person that stated in their thread statement to change the spark plug ,because I just couldn't believe that only after a total of 1 hours use that a spark plug that looks so good would have been the problem. Why would any company go to the trouble of producing an inferior article like this when for a few cents more they could produce an adequate product. Also King tools should be aware of this and not put these plugs in any of their machines no matter what the savings in prodution cost. All it does it give them a bad rep to buyers. Again thanks for the heads up on the plug because I had spent hours and a lot of muscle pulling on the start cord. REPLACE THE PLUG !!!!!!!


Will change the plug this week--thanks. It starts for us as we test it often.
Thanks again.


----------



## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

rwalpole said:


> Since then I have read several notes about the inferior off shore plugs that come in these machines and others ...Why would any company go to the trouble of producing an inferior article like this when for a few cents more they could produce an adequate product?


Autolite spark plugs (usually excellent, even when made in Mexico) have now been moved to CHINA.

Gonna have to be NGK plugs in everything from now on, no matter what!


----------



## readytogo (Apr 6, 2013)

*fuel turns into gum if left in the carburetor to long*

(Marvel mystery oil first came out in October 1923 to rid carburetors of deposits caused by unrefined gasoline. In World War II, Marvel mystery oil was actually used in ships, tanks, airplanes and other military vehicles. Marvel Mystery Oil has several uses in the automotive field. It can serve as an additive in the fuel system to help clean out any buildup from debris in the gasoline)
I have been using this product ever since I saw my father use it way back; in case you run out of it you can use transmission oil, but as a rule drains all fuel and run unit dry, opening carburetor drain plug is also a good idea. If you stored fuel for the long run is a good idea to set-up a water separator system like the diesel engines have http://www.walmart.com/ip/FUEL-WATER-SEPARATOR-KIT/11071204
Is cheap and works find, alcohol in fuel draws water and water in fuel turns into gum, creating a nightmare, also a excellent product that has been around for many years is http://www.lucasoil.ca/products/fuel-treatments.asp, but is a good idea to also have a carburetor spray cleaner handy.
:2thumb:


----------



## Tirediron (Jul 12, 2010)

LincTex if you choose to Go NGK be aware that I have had a lot of fuel foul problems with their AB-6 plugs, when used in flat head Continential engines, weird I know but if they get choke fouled they will not fire even after being heated. theoretically this should not be possible but empirical data shows otherwise,


----------



## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

Tirediron said:


> LincTex if you choose to Go NGK be aware that I have had a lot of fuel foul problems with their AB-6 plugs, when used in flat head Continential engines, weird I know but if they get choke fouled they will not fire even after being heated. theoretically this should not be possible but empirical data shows otherwise,


Great.
Now I'll be running through the salvage yards robbing plugs out of engine to store as "preps". 

I might have to try TIG welding additional material to the ground electrode on worn plugs to keep them alive longer. Sucks to hear about NGK sensitivity.


----------



## bacca2016 (Apr 23, 2016)

well i agree DON'T BUY A KING GENERATOR i have a 4200 king and after two months it wouldn't start, checked the oil and the gas all is good still won't start, ok maybe the spark plug is fouled. to take a spark plug out is easy or should be not on this took all my strength to take it out and it screwed up the threads on ALUMINUM HEAD because it was cross threaded or over torqued at the factory as it turned out the reason it wouldn't start is because the exhaust valve was set to tight and would no longer close ' and this was all done at the factory. and i have been waiting for two months for the head to come and it still not here.


----------



## Doitnstyle1 (Apr 17, 2016)

readytogo said:


> (Marvel mystery oil first came out in October 1923 to rid carburetors of deposits caused by unrefined gasoline. In World War II, Marvel mystery oil was actually used in ships, tanks, airplanes and other military vehicles. Marvel Mystery Oil has several uses in the automotive field. It can serve as an additive in the fuel system to help clean out any buildup from debris in the gasoline)
> I have been using this product ever since I saw my father use it way back; in case you run out of it you can use transmission oil, but as a rule drains all fuel and run unit dry, opening carburetor drain plug is also a good idea. If you stored fuel for the long run is a good idea to set-up a water separator system like the diesel engines have http://www.walmart.com/ip/FUEL-WATER-SEPARATOR-KIT/11071204
> Is cheap and works find, alcohol in fuel draws water and water in fuel turns into gum, creating a nightmare, also a excellent product that has been around for many years is http://www.lucasoil.ca/products/fuel-treatments.asp, but is a good idea to also have a carburetor spray cleaner handy.
> :2thumb:


This^ is by far the best answer. I have worked on small engines for a very long time and the biggest problem that I have run into is that people think it is OK to leave gas in the tank or worse yet in the carburetor. The gas usually runs afoul and clogs the carb. Even if you run your carburetor dry it is still a good idea to spray your carb down with a light lubricant if you are going to store it for a while. This will help neutralize some of the corrosive aspects of any ethanol in your system. The Carb parts a made of cheap metal and very susceptible for corrosion.

Gas sitting in a tank will go bad. Your best bet is to use fresh gas every time. I have always installed a secondary petcock in a fuel line to drain the tank of any gasoline. And then I run the engine dry and spray a little light lubricant in the carb like Marvel Mystery Oil and crank it a couple of times to draw it in. We also think that since it is not our car and we did not pay as much money for it, it is OK to just buy and use the cheap gas. The fact is the smaller engines will last longer and run with fewer problems with higher octane gas.

If you live in areas with high humidity (like Florida) your tanks are more susceptible to moisture attacks than you might think. I had a guy swear up and down that it couldn't be moisture because he kept his generator under a tarp in his garage. I drained about 1/4 cup of water out of his tank. I drained the whole thing, cleaned the carb, put in fresh gas and it started right away.


----------



## jbeucsher (Oct 30, 2017)

I am recovering from a pretty horrific motorcycle accident, but just before that I purchased a JDNA/KingCraft 2000 Watt Generator just in case we got hit with a bad winter and lost our power.
Well, it happened this past winter; Prairie Village, KS was without power for several days and we were thankfull I had the good sense to think ahead - that didn't last long. After taking the unused and new but stored generator out of the box and following the start up instructions to the letter, the unit had a catastrophic failure and blew the oil seals within 30 seconds.
After going round and round with JDNA/KingCraft customer service, I've found their company is only interested in taking my money and covering their butts by hiding behind a limited warranty on a brand new out of the box, never used before unit. 
So I've decided to go to social media with my story. I hope no-one else ever has to deal with a situation like this and would strongly advise NEVER purchasing anything from JDNA/KingCraft as they don't care about anything, including their reputation, but only the allmighty dollar and their bottom line.
Avoid JDNA/KingCraft Products At All Cost ! ! !


----------



## capt. (Dec 15, 2017)

Maybe I missed it. The new gas with alcohol goes trough a chemical change after it absorbs a certain amount of water at which point it is a light jell, brown varnish like, if I wasn't senile I could tell you the scientific name , but I'm drawing a blank, ? phase separation?? maybe.


----------



## junknjim28 (12 d ago)

JayJay said:


> I'd like to spread the word about King Craft Generators...I started mine for 7 months, no problem. Eighth month wouldn't start...dh couldn't even get it started, and he's tried for 2 months.
> I can't return it to Aldi's because I can't find the receipt.DUH!
> Customer service told ME to replace the spark plug first and then clean the carburetor.
> Dh has used every tool in his 3 tool boxes and can't get SP out; was taking machine apart to get to SP, but we decided to sell it to a guy who knows how to fix them--at a discount.
> ...


Remove muffler ,then start it. I had one carbon up .had the threw it n fire to remove it .


----------

