# Jimmy starting issues...



## d_saum (Jan 17, 2012)

No, not Jim.. my GMC Jimmy. So here be the scoop.. When I drive it for a little while (say more than 15, maybe 20 minutes or more), and turn it off for 5 to 10 minutes, it doesn't want to start up again, unless I let it sit for about 25 minutes. Then she starts right up without issue. Now here's the rub... if I drive it as mentioned above.. I can turn her off, and start her right back up again. Something happens when I let her sit for those 5 to 10 minutes. It's a 1990 GMC Jimmy with a fuel injected 350... thoughts?


----------



## backlash (Nov 11, 2008)

My 2000 chevy truck does that sometimes.
I think it has something to do with the anti theft system.


----------



## Justaguy987 (Mar 2, 2013)

I have two thoughts on it. The first is that it sounds like it is fuel related. I would say that it is vapor locking, but I have never seen that happen on a FI vehicle. Not saying it can't, just that I have not seen it. Change the fuel filter, I am a big fan of changing them, they are often overlooked. 
My other thought is the ignition control module. I have seen many go bad and do similar things. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. Heat seems to be a big factor. Has it recently got hotter in your area? I know it has here and I've been doing lots of a/c work. I believe that jimmy has a TBI system on it and the control module is on the side of the distributor. 

Good luck with it and if all else fails, stick it on a transport and I will take it as a donation


----------



## hiwall (Jun 15, 2012)

My two cents says it is electrical. In old cars with a bad coil they would not start when hot. When you shut it off the heat builds up for awhile before it starts to cool down. When it cools enough it starts again. Does not bother when truck is moving as there is plenty of air flow cooling it. When it happens just pour cold water on the coil or module or whatever it has. If it starts then you know. I could ne way wrong as I am not a mechanic.


----------



## cowboyhermit (Nov 10, 2012)

Sounds like a problem is cropping up between the engine being at operating temperature (where it will always start easy) and the cold start system coming into play.
I am always hesitant to try and help diagnose something like this over the net cause there are so many factors, if you haven't replaced your fuel filters do it (you're going to anyways at some point)IMO.


----------



## d_saum (Jan 17, 2012)

Thanks for the suggestions... I believe it may be fuel related since when it happened the other day, I sprayed some WD-40 (all I had on me.. no starting fluid handy) down its throat and it sounded like it wanted to start and was getting spark, but wouldn't actually start. Then, after letting it cool back down, it started up just fine. I'll definitely check the fuel filter, but can't wrap my head around how that would affect it like this (but then again, I'm not a mechanic). Like ya said.. changing it out will eventually have to be done anyway.


----------



## Tirediron (Jul 12, 2010)

Change the fuel filter as mentioned before. When you first turn the key on you should hear the fuel pump cycle for 2 seconds or so every time you start it, Check that it is cycling when the engine is warm & not restarting.
Are you getting a service engine light. The hall effect pick up coil in the distributor is a know problem in the TBI GMs it will trigger the ignition, but not the fuel system or vise versa. You should probably have a spare anyway. get a spare ignition module and do a quick swap when it is showing symptoms, but don't run it for long if it starts, it needs to be on the base with the grease to transfer heat.
Link to trouble shooting page http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/TroubleshootingTBISystems.pdf
Link to trouble code

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=240425


----------



## LincTex (Apr 1, 2011)

What year is it?


----------



## d_saum (Jan 17, 2012)

LincTex said:


> What year is it?


First post... last sentence.



d_saum said:


> It's a 1990 GMC Jimmy with a fuel injected 350...


----------



## Jason (Jul 25, 2009)

I have an easy fix. Trade it in on a brand new SUV that you'll be in debt with for half a decade or so of your life and that will lose a quarter or its value the minute you drive it off the dealership lot. It'll run like a top unless there's a recall, which is more likely than not. For all that you'll get a vehicle that's not built as well as your old one, made with Chinese plastic as much as possible, and won't last very long. But it'll be shiny!!! 

I digress... Oh, and my Dodge Dakota will be turning 10 in October. I did buy it new but I'm gonna run it until she don't go no moe.


----------



## Meerkat (May 31, 2011)

In the early 80s we learned this lesson after pushing a Ventura all over Jax Beach. My spleen still hurts thinking about that car.


----------



## UncleJoe (Jan 11, 2009)

Jason said:


> I have an easy fix. Trade it in on a brand new SUV that you'll be in debt with for half a decade or so of your life and that will lose a quarter or its value the minute you drive it off the dealership lot. It'll run like a top unless there's a recall, which is more likely than not. For all that you'll get a vehicle that's not built as well as your old one, made with Chinese plastic as much as possible, and won't last very long. But it'll be shiny!!!
> 
> I digress... Oh, and my Dodge Dakota will be turning 10 in October. I did buy it new but I'm gonna run it until she don't go no moe.


My 2500 Dodge Ram will turn 20 in Oct. It was 3 when I bought it.

I've never been a fan of GM vehicles. Always had Ford or Mopar.


----------



## helicopter5472 (Feb 25, 2013)

UncleJoe said:


> My 2500 Dodge Ram will turn 20 in Oct. It was 3 when I bought it.
> 
> I've never been a fan of GM vehicles. Always had Ford or Mopar.


 Fix it, like people, (or most) above if it's not rusted beyond repair, and especially if it's paid for, fix it. It's built better than the new junk. You can take that 350, change the intake and put a carb on it, and can still use an old style distributor with points and make it EMP resistant. Most new engines don't even have distributors, and you can get manifolds with carbs for them. Pollution laws... Look at UncleJoe's truck, take care of it and it will pay you back many times over.


----------



## readytogo (Apr 6, 2013)

I take it you don`t have a code reader, ok. A flat or stuck EGR valve or related emission sensor ; any vacuum line leak will make the same symptoms as fuel or ignition problem, easy to check with a simple vacuum pump kit. All sensors will give you a check engine light, the fuel pump will not, check fuel pump by listening to it after you turn the key on, if you don`t heard a study humming sound try turning key on and off or hitting the side of gas tank if it starts humming again, replace it ,also add a new filter. You will also get a check eng light if the fuel tank cap is bad, TBI systems are pressure system so check the cap for a bad seal; but 9 out of 10 cases starting and stalling cases are related to fuel pumps. Don`t go crazy messing with the timing just yet.Good luck.


----------



## ChicoDaMan (Nov 6, 2012)

Had an old Ford LTD tht did the same thing. Turned out to be the starter solonoid. Pretty easy fix. Good luck


----------



## hiwall (Jun 15, 2012)

So d_saum is it fixed or you still fighting it?


----------



## readytogo (Apr 6, 2013)

Ignition module overheating is a common problem and symptomatic of impending failure.


----------

