# Blossom End Rot



## Meerkat (May 31, 2011)

last month we pulled up all the watermelons because of BER and the squash and okra didn't produce either.

It did nothing but rain soon after we put them in, and basically rained every since.

I'm going to start more seeds for melons,peppers,squash only this time in containers inside new greenhouse [ it only has a roof on it now of course].

We use Bakers Creek seeds and the melons were Georgia RattleSnake and Alibabi both are large melons.

Do you think that lack of bright sunshine also affects plants? Its always cloudy lately.

Any suggestions?


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## rawhide2971 (Apr 19, 2013)

Calcium Cloride is the most common remedy for blossom end rot in Tomatoes. Blossom end rot is commonly assoicated with infrequent and then over watering and lack of nutrients in the soil so I would have to assume that is the issue your dealing with. You don't see Calcium cloride much in the big box stores but a lot of old style feed stores still have it, its usually a green liquid and easily applied. A soil test might be a good idea.....and I have now exhausted my knowledge on the subject and will step back and let other more knowledgable gardeners supply thier thoughts.


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## Meerkat (May 31, 2011)

rawhide2971 said:


> Calcium Cloride is the most common remedy for blossom end rot in Tomatoes. Blossom end rot is commonly assoicated with infrequent and then over watering and lack of nutrients in the soil so I would have to assume that is the issue your dealing with. You don't see Calcium cloride much in the big box stores but a lot of old style feed stores still have it, its usually a green liquid and easily applied. A soil test might be a good idea.....and I have now exhausted my knowledge on the subject and will step back and let other more knowledgable gardeners supply thier thoughts.


 Thanks RH. I agree maybe all this rain washed out the calcium? Our tomatoes were in containers and they did fine. We got about 50lb.s tomatoes some started out in hydroponics and transferred into containers.


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## tired-medic (Dec 16, 2008)

I have had good success this year using Calcium Nitrate. I dissolves rapidly ,seems to pickup moisture from the air and melt away. It has so fgar cleared up my Blossom end rot in tomatoes in spite of terrible watering habits. It was available here at the local farm supply.


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## Guardian (Jan 17, 2012)

We started off well but then our zucchini and summer squash got some rot. Then things went down hill fairly quickly for us. First we got mildew / mold on the leaves of the plants so I removed a lot of them and as new growth formed they came back around. We then began to notice the same issue start with the tomatoes. Everything grew like mad but then got the mildew or blossom rot and the plants decayed. They also started to get some type of black mold or similar. Several things conspired against us here. First this was a new plot. Second we went overkill on the number of plants; we have never had plants grow like this and many tomatoes were caged and went over 6 feet in height. They quickly closed in on one another which probably contributed to and was exacerbated by the final issue... No water other than every other day using village water and they were doing well, then 2 weeks plus of constant heavy rain and high humidity. That seems to be where our issue started. We have very good draining soil but the growth was such there was no air movement. Since it is the end for us pretty much, and we did well anyway, I am going with a previous poster indicating a soil test at least just to see where we stand now. That way we can amend the soil before next season and do a test in the spring to check the results.


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## crabapple (Jan 1, 2012)

I use Granular Gypsum/ pill form (Calcium Sulfate), do not want to choke on the dust & the pills go where you throw them, not the four winds.
The BER will show up, but there are lots of problems from too little Calcium, many farmers view calcium as or more important then Nitrogen. Always the top of the list 17 essential elements.
http://perfectgardeningtips.com/201...trients-and-macro-nutrients-for-plant-growth/


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## JayJay (Nov 23, 2010)

Guardian said:


> We started off well but then our zucchini and summer squash got some rot. Then things went down hill fairly quickly for us. First we got mildew / mold on the leaves of the plants so I removed a lot of them and as new growth formed they came back around. We then began to notice the same issue start with the tomatoes. Everything grew like mad but then got the mildew or blossom rot and the plants decayed.


I had that on one tomato plant away from the other 4 luckily.

https://ixquick-proxy.com/do/show_p...600&th=97&tw=160&fn=septoria+tomato.jpg&fs=84 k&el=boss_pics_2,boss_pics_1&tu=http:%2F%2Fts3.mm.bing.net%2Fth%3Fid%3DH.4751124024461862%26pid%3D15.1%26H%3D97%26W%3D160&rl=NONE&u=http:%2F%2Fncsupdicblog.blogspot.com%2F2012%2F04%2Fbe-on-look-out-garden-diseases-to-watch.html&udata=a550ebcc5e6d0d5124e3016313970e35&rid=MHLNRRRPKKQM&oiu=http:%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F-yFLgQV21mQ8%2FT5gkZKwgGHI%2FAAAAAAAAAss%2FFt86x0p3ZMc%2Fs1600%2Fseptoria%2Btomato.jpg
It started on one side of the plant like someone had sprayed a chemical on it--then the small tomatoes looked awful, and then then I thought a cabbage worm did the damage--I read the problem, pulled the entire plant and saw the root damage. This was a full 4 foot huge plant.

Soil fungus. It is caused by a cool spell, then a humid spell, and then too much rain.
Here in southern Ky, we had all three starting in late May.

I also used powdered milk/Epsom salts on my 4 remaining plants and so far have gotten 56 lbs. of tomatoes and that is from a pea gravel flower bed!!!
Calcium and magnesium--beautiful tomatoes. Not a spot on them and they broke one of the plants--clusters of huge tomatoes were too heavy even tied to the shutters.


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## Davarm (Oct 22, 2011)

The shorter days and cloudy weather can cause plants to sense the end of the growing season and slow down growth and development. Not much can be done about it except to add some UV lights if/where possible.

A good general amendment that will prevent BER in most garden plants and provide phosphorus at the same time is "Rock Phosphate", a liberal amount worked into the soil at planting will usually take care of the problem for at least a season. The calcium chloride spray is very good as an immediate remedy but it may need to be applied a number of times through the fruiting cycle.

The blights(fungus) can be controlled by a spraying of "Copper Sulfate", its considered an "Organic" solution to fungus problems but it is toxic to animals(and people) so care should be taken to follow labeling instructions. The Copper Sulfate can also be sprayed on the ground after the plants die back for the winter to help kill off any fungus spores that may be in the soil waiting to resurface in the new garden.


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## CrackbottomLouis (May 20, 2012)

I got rot on my zuchinni and squash. Finally gave up and just pulled em up yesterday. I have a 7foot tomato plant and no tomato's. No rot just too much rain and not enough sun on my pathetic porch. Habenaro's, parsley and basil coming pretty well. I will be keeping summers like these in mind when I am considering eating primarily from my garden in the future and diversifying crops so I at least get some things when weather throws my a curve ball. I think its a good lesson to have learned now as opposed to later


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## Woody (Nov 11, 2008)

My garden rotted out also, very disappointing. But! I have a cure for next season, actually this fall. This greenhouse.

ShelterLogic 10' x 20'
I can even buy just a top cover for it or I'll have to see if I can just use roll plastic as a rain cover. With a couple posts I can plasticize a good part or possibly all of my 30' x 40' main growing area. I am going to be prepared for next time!!!


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