# Help with a truck



## Cabowabo

Hi ya'll,
I'm looking at getting a truck next month probably be the 3rd week of February. Back story I've been walking pretty much everywhere I needed to go for the past 3 years. And I've managed to save $20K for the purpose of buying a truck. I'm leaning towards a Ford, mostly because they didn't take the bail out money from the gov. I'm paying cash no loans (I don't want my future dictated to me by a truck). This will also be my first truck, which may be why I'm probably gonna ask some fool questions.
Right now my options new are a 3.7 Liter V6 extended cab, or a 5.0 Liter V8. I've only seen one V8 in my price range and it was about $600 more expensive. I'm banking on rebates to get it into my price range fully, and then negotiating to cover TT&L. But I consider it an anomaly because it was the only one I saw for sale 2013's. 
So my question is would a V6 F-150 be underpowered? My girlfriend and I are talking about getting land in the near future (next 2-3 years) so for general work. If I need to go with the V-8 I'm more 'n likely going to have to go Used and probably going to be a used Ram 1500. 
Thanks
~Cabo


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## Tweto

V6 engines in full size trucks are fine. You will be happy with it if you are just looking for transportation. If you have any plans to pull trailers then the V8 would be better.

The last time I looked at new trucks (last year) I found that fuel mileage was about the same (V6 vs V8), so the initial price and then the routine maintenance is what makes the V8 more expensive.


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## crabapple

I had two straight 6 Fords, they were strong good trucks, but they are older trucks too.
I like Ford, but have no knowledge of the newer trucks,1980-2014.
Good luck.


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## Grape Ape

Do you really need a new one. I am not familiar with current prices so I am not sure if the truck you are looking at will be 4 wheel drive or not. 

If I were looking for a truck I would be looking at used trucks 3-4 yrs old. Yes you will be foregoing the new truck smell, but you can probably get a lot more truck for you money. By going with a 2010 instead of 2013 you may be able to step up to the f-250 with a v8 and 4 wheel drive. That way when you do get your land you have the 4x4 for getting around on it and the heavier suspension and axles for towing and hauling stuff around. With the f-250 you will know the motor and drivetrain is up to towing and hauling instead of hoping your new f-150 with a v6 will do the job when it is presented to it. 

Going used will probably put you into a higher trim level also. Better seat, nicer interior, better stereo, etc.... Making the time spent in the truck more enjoyable.


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## LincTex

I just can't stomach the depreciation costs on new vehicles.

I typically find something 5-7 years old with 50-60,000 miles when I go shopping, that is the best price/year/reliability break point for me, and I have studied this quite a bit.


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## Dakine

some random truck musings...

The new Ford 150 is going to have the aluminum body and it's 700 lbs lighter than previous 150's which should give a huge boost in fuel economy. 

Inline 6 cyl engines are good for torque! 

Ford has also made news recently because they snuck their new 6 cyl engine into some cross country rally, was it Dakar?? and they torture tested it in the field.

If you want that truck, and affordable, I think you'd have to wait for the first batch of lease returns to come back to the dealerships 2 years after it hits the market. 

I've had several trucks, chevy's, a nissan and a ford. The Titan was a beast and I loved it, but it's crap mileage (doesnt help my foot was always on the accelerator lol) The ford I have now I got used, I decided to get off the merry go round of instant depreciation on new vehicles. it's a 2wd and gets 17 mpg so I guess thats okay. I was thinking about possibly going for a 4wd and I may still do that too later this year, maybe by the summer, dont know yet. 

I prefer the crew cabs, but if I couldnt have that I would have to get at least the extended. There's just too many occasions that I either want people or gear inside not getting wet in the bed.

I like smaller 8 cyl engines > 6 cyl because you get the added hp and torque without taking the fuel economy hit so bad, and at least in my opinion, hp and torque in a truck are never surplus. you may not need it all the time, but when you do, you will sorely miss it if you dont have it.


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## backlash

If I had $20k cash the last place I would look for a truck is a new car dealer.
I would shop Craigslist and local classifieds.
Why pay for a new truck when it will automatically become a used truck the second you drive off the lot.
Insurance will be less also.
Do your homework before buying.
I have owned Fords, Chevys and Dodges.
I'm like you I don't like the companies taking tax payers money and giving it to the unions.
I currently have a 2000 Chevy 1500 4x4 and a 2010 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 with the Hemi.
Both get fair mileage on the freeway.
I took the Dodge on a trip and got an honest 20 MPG.
Freeway speeds were 65 in Oregon so that really saved gas.
Car fax does not tell the whole story so I take that with a grain of salt.
Like has been said if you plan on hauling anything go with the V8 or diesel.
I wish my Dodge had a full side bed. That little 5'6" bed is almost worthless but my wife likes how it drives and handles so that's all that matters.


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## Tirediron

I would either by a 10 year old lower mileage truck or go with Linctex's age formula, the depreciation on a new truck is very steep. Unless you need to pull a trailer or haul fairly heavy cargo stay away from 2500 series "3/4 tons" they have more expensive components and tires, and if you need to haul or tow much a dually pays off in rear tire savings, when worked 6 tires are cheaper by a long ways then four. 
fuel mileage is your big cost over the life time of a vehicle so think about that when buying. 
Buying ford because they didn't take a buy out is not in my opinion a good reason, ford has sucked the Gov teat plenty in the past. having said that their trucks have improved lately. Really look before buying a Dodge, Cummins gives Dodge trucks far higher rating than Dodge has earned.


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## TheLazyL

Cabowabo said:


> ...I'm looking at getting a truck...banking on rebates to get it into my price range fully...


I understand you're are looking at new.

I agree with Backlash. You could buy used 2 or 3 years old. Save on depreciation by driving new off the lot, sales taxes, licensing fees, insurance and have money towards land.

What would the gas mileage difference be between the V-6 and V-8? A Second vehicle for local driving? Power work truck?

P.S. Girlfriend AND saving money? Usually the two don't go together


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## LincTex

Tirediron said:


> Really look before buying a Dodge, Cummins gives Dodge trucks far higher rating than Dodge has earned.


The killer on Cummins powered trucks is that the front suspension was never designed to carry that much weight around over it, and the transmissions are often abused by the torque.

The 5.9 liter engines are near indestructible, but the rest of the truck can't keep up.


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## NaeKid

Early last year I bought a 9-year-old Chevy 3/4-ton pickup that was barely broke-in and it came with all the bells-toy-n-whistles. When that truck left the dealer-lot it would have cost the original owner around $65,000 - I got it for $10,000.

If I could make a suggestion to you about a truck ( after owning many trucks - Alberta is truck-central! ) my best word of advice is to purchase _more_ truck than you think you will ever need. Get the longest truck-box - the most seating possible - the best towing capacity - the best load capacity ... and get 4x4. Out of all my trucks, I have only been satisfied with 4x4's and out of all my trucks, the two I was happiest with was my 1/4-ton S10 and my 3/4-ton Chevy. All the rest had way too many things that I compromised on and I wasn't happy.


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## Viking

We have a 1989 Ford 4X4 diesel that's been a real workhorse. Being a non turbo it doesn't have a lot of horsepower but I've hauled loads of over 5,000 lbs many times, mainly firewood but also sand and wet manure. The fact is is that the truck really shines when it's loaded to the hilt. After owning a motor home that has a 5.9 Cummins with a 6 speed Allison transmission I'd love to have that combo in a pickup. I wouldn't hesitate getting a Dodge diesel pickup from the mid 1990's but they seem to be hard to come by as the owners just don't let them go.


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## HamiltonFelix

While I still cannot imagine life without a pickup, my outlook has changed a bit. Back when I had a very basic 1969 Chev half ton, six cylinder and "three on the tree," I noted that it was similar to running a full sized American car of the 70's, used similar tires, had a decent ride, not bad to maintain. I used the heck out of that truck, sold it for nearly what I paid for it.

Since then, I have had heavier rigs. The ex-Navy 1966 International one ton 4x4 with overbuilt axles was a great offroad workhorse, pulled anything (slowly) and was not much fun on the highway. It had a 266 V8 and later the 304 V8, but I have driven a 20,000 lb. class farm truck with a 240 cubic inch six cylinder. 

Currently, the 460 powered 1986 F250 SuperCab 4x4 sits more than it runs. I find we can do a lot of our lighter errands with one of our trailers. I have a 16' car hauler (F250 handles it well, as did my 1996 K2500 Suburban), which can be pulled behind my Crown Victoria if the mission is just to pick up a few boards or some conduit. 

But our most frequently used hauler is the 1195 lb. GVWR 4x8' Harbor Freight trailer for which I made sideboards. It is most often used behind our 2007 Corolla, which has a Class I hitch and is rated for up to 1500 lb. trailers.

My present thought is: "Gee I'd love a Cummins powered Dodge from the mid 90's but that would cost money. The old Ford is paid for, has a fresh carburetor, minor problems fixed, and I have fresh tires on it. As infrequently as I need the heavy hauler, I can use it for a lot of years before the better fuel economy of the Cummins even concerns me."

Don't get me wrong, I love pickups. But analyze your usage. I find that an economical car, a small trailer, and an inexpensive occasionally used heavy pickup works for me.


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## GaryS

I can't offer any good advice about newer trucks, since I'm still driving the 1/2 ton Dodge I bought new in 1973 for $4200. It's only used for household hauling, so the mileage is under 100,000. I restored it cosmetically in '91 and did a frame-off restoration in 2005, so it's still in pretty good shape. Since I did all the restoration labor myself, the lifetime cost, less normal maintenance, is somewhere around $25k for forty years of driving. 

I did buy a new '99 Dakota that was my primary vehicle for five years, and I loved it. Not one spec of trouble and 20-23mpg on trips...with a V8...and it ran like a turpentined cat! If Dodge still made them, I'd be tempted.

I've looked at new trucks, but I can't seriously bring myself to pay that kind of money. If I was looking today, I'd probably look for a solid body, higher mileage, pre-computer era truck that I could pick up for a couple thousand dollars and spend another ten or twelve to restore it mechanically.


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## Cabowabo

When I think about why I wanted a new car/truck is because that is what motivated me to save as much as I did. At one point I was saving 98% of my paycheck and putting it into a car fund. So when I was day dreaming about my car it was always a new car. And the only reason I could justify it (in my head) was that I was paying cash and planned on driving it for an extremely long time.
That being said, I think I would of hated myself for getting a V-6 down the road. Especially with what I wanted to do with it, unfortunatly I don't think I can afford to drive a F-250/2500 etc. And my reason is I'm trying to leave my job sooner rather then later. With Budget cuts, I'm looking at going to a one weekend a month 2 weeks a year job to keep health insurance, and going to school. So I know I can't afford a massive truck. Also a limiting factor is my parents live near the gulf, and they are pushing me to get something that wouldn't of been in the last hurricane 5-6 years ago. I'm not making excuses, simply stating a reality. 
When I made my original point about taking money from the goverment, I refuse to buy Chevy/GMC and my reason is that I think they will be in the same place that they were in '08 in the next 5-10 years. Labor cost will continue to kill them. Which is why I won't even look at their trucks. 
Right now I have my eyes on several 2012 Ram 1500s V8s with low mileage that I'll be able to drive for years to come. The plus side I've realized to buying it used practically new is I can save some money and use it to do what I need to on the truck, set aside for a rainy day, and put in the land/house fund. Thank ya'll for talking me out of a V-6, I really would of regretted that.


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## LincTex

HamiltonFelix said:


> My present thought is: "Gee I'd love a Cummins powered Dodge from the mid 90's but that would cost money. The old Ford is paid for, has a fresh carburetor, minor problems fixed, and I have fresh tires on it. As infrequently as I need the heavy hauler, I can use it for a lot of years before the better fuel economy of the Cummins even concerns me."
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I love pickups.
> But analyze your usage.
> I find that an economical car, a small trailer, and an inexpensive occasionally used heavy pickup works for me.


This is excellent advice. I hardly ever drive my diesel F250 unless pulling a load over 4,000 lbs.

My 5.0 liter (302) Ford Ranger gets 20 mpg and pulls a 4,000 load on a 16 foot flatbed with ease. It is easily "enough truck" for 99% of what I do.


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## crabapple

Well, I am not buying a truck, just putting an motor in one, which is not much cheaper.


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## LincTex

crabapple said:


> Well, I am not buying a truck, just putting an motor in one, which is not much cheaper.


As with everything - - it depends

My Cummins 4BT-3.9L was $1750, the most expensive engine I ever bought. I paid for it (some) by buying a junk Dodge with a good 5.9L Cummins in it for $300, stripping off the parts I needed like turbo, power steering pump, manifolds, etc and STILL selling what was left for $1250!

My tired 302 in the Ranger is getting a stroker 347... I am in the "pieces gathering" process now.

Used to be good running 5.0 engines (even the HO ones) were $300 complete at the wrecking yard, but now they have dried up. The local Pick-N-Pull has engines cheap but you have to pull them yourself. That's the best option available anywhere.


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## backlash

I'm thinking about replacing the 45 year old 350 SB in my Nova with a new 383 stroker.
Price would be around $4000, but it would be a lot of fun to drive.


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## LincTex

backlash said:


> I'm thinking about replacing the 45 year old 350 SB in my Nova with a new 383 stroker.
> Price would be around $4000, but it would be a lot of fun to drive.


Should be cheaper than that to build.

I used to build circle track engines for a: "1-cubic inch-per-10 pounds of car weight" class. I used a SBC 400 block with a 283 crank (3" stroke) and custom bearing spacers to make a big bore, long rod, short stroke screamer.

At only 330 cubes the car was 100's of pounds lighter than the others, yet made power better than any 350 on the track. Those were fun days, with lots of wins.


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## Viking

Our diesel pickup is not a daily driver, especially due to the high price of fuel. Any more we only use it for getting garden soil, sand or gravel, sacks of concrete or lumber. That's the area in which it pays to keep the truck. So most of the time it sits parked out in the weather which is not the best situation as vehicles don't fair too well just sitting around, I probably should get a cheap shelter to put it under.


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## LincTex

Viking said:


> is not the best situation as vehicles don't fair too well just sitting around, I probably should get a cheap shelter to put it under.


Or just sell it and buy a small trailer to pull behind another vehicle you own.


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## Viking

LincTex said:


> Or just sell it and buy a small trailer to pull behind another vehicle you own.


Not a bad idea except that our 1988 Samurai even with a 1.6 engine is still not powerful enough for some of the loads the pickup will handle. The truck is paid for and still starts and runs great. Keeping it insured even though it's not driven that much is still affordable. On the other hand I have thought of getting an older Toyota pickup to haul a small trailer as you have mentioned. Thing is at my age I have a bucket list that has the need for an old classic car on it. So we do with what we have and the pickup stays parked until it's needed and when it's needed we're grateful that we have it.


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## Tirediron

LincTex said:


> Should be cheaper than that to build.
> 
> I used to build circle track engines for a: "1-cubic inch-per-10 pounds of car weight" class. I used a SBC 400 block with a 283 crank (3" stroke) and custom bearing spacers to make a big bore, long rod, short stroke screamer.
> 
> At only 330 cubes the car was 100's of pounds lighter than the others, yet made power better than any 350 on the track. Those were fun days, with lots of wins.


What was the power range of those engines 4500- 7000 ??? 
and the idle with any kind of overlap cam would give you goosebumps. (It's a gear head thing either that statement hit home or it will never make sense)
the GM factory almost opposite was the 267,a 350 crank with a micro bore.


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## TheLazyL

Viking said:


> ... The truck is paid for and still starts and runs great. Keeping it insured even though it's not driven that much is still affordable. ....


Sometimes it's cheaper to pay to have stuff delivered then to pay insurance, taxes & registration fees on a seldom used vehicle.

Plus the investment in a seldom used vehicle depreciates every year. That investment might be better used elsewhere.


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## LincTex

Tirediron said:


> What was the power range of those engines 4500-7000 ???
> 
> and the idle with any kind of overlap cam would give you goosebumps. (It's a gear head thing either that statement hit home or it will never make sense)
> 
> the GM factory almost opposite was the 267,a 350 crank with a micro bore.


We twisted 'em higher than that, about 8600 at the end of the straight on 1/3 mile oval

IIRC... cam specs were around 262 degrees at .050", I didn't remember "advertised" duration but it would be about 310-320 degrees or so. It wouldn't idle under 1000 rpm's at all. Valve lift was close to .600" .. I think around .580" or so.

Sounded great at any part of the RPM range! I do remember the headers were 1-7/8" tubes and really short primaries, only about 26-28 inches long. We were limited to a 600 double pumper #6779 carb - MUST have choke horn with number still intact as a rule. any carb mod allowed but choke horn still intact, I think we ran a baseplate from a 750 Holley.

The little bitty 267 Chevy engines would make a nice gas mileage engine. I built one to take the place of an Olds 260 in a 79 Cutlass (Geez, that was 26 years ago!!) with ported '76 305 heads (small chambers), I think the gears were 2.21's? With no overdrive that car got 25-26 MPG!!


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## LincTex

Viking said:


> Not a bad idea except that our 1988 Samurai even with a 1.6 engine is still not powerful enough for some of the loads the pickup will handle.


It will if you drive slowly and carefully enough. Speed kills with heavy loads.

My 1980 Chevy Luv 4WD did things no one said it could do - all the time! 
I'll bet I could perform similar feats with a Samurai!

I have pulled 7500 GVW trailer loads with my Ford Ranger. It's a little hairy... but doable at slow speeds.


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## Viking

TheLazyL said:


> Sometimes it's cheaper to pay to have stuff delivered then to pay insurance, taxes & registration fees on a seldom used vehicle.
> 
> Plus the investment in a seldom used vehicle depreciates every year. That investment might be better used elsewhere.


We live between 30 and 60 miles from where we get supplies so often the delivery costs are rather expensive. As to depreciation, we couldn't sell the truck for the value it has for us. Here is Oregon license tags every two years are really not bad and even insurance is affordable considering that we are on low fixed retirement incomes, we get a very good multiple vehicle discount rate so having that truck sit for long periods of time isn't an issue for the good work it does for us when we need it.


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## Tirediron

LincTex said:


> We twisted 'em higher than that, about 8600 at the end of the straight on 1/3 mile oval
> 
> IIRC... cam specs were around 262 degrees at .050", I didn't remember "advertised" duration but it would be about 310-320 degrees or so. It wouldn't idle under 1000 rpm's at all. Valve lift was close to .600" .. I think around .580" or so.
> 
> Sounded great at any part of the RPM range! I do remember the headers were 1-7/8" tubes and really short primaries, only about 26-28 inches long. We were limited to a 600 double pumper #6779 carb - MUST have choke horn with number still intact as a rule. any carb mod allowed but choke horn still intact, I think we ran a baseplate from a 750 Holley.
> 
> Most carbs unless heavily moded make better power with the choke horn and plate in place, those 330s sound like fun
> The little bitty 267 Chevy engines would make a nice gas mileage engine. I built one to take the place of an Olds 260 in a 79 Cutlass (Geez, that was 26 years ago!!) with ported '76 305 heads (small chambers), I think the gears were 2.21's? With no overdrive that car got 25-26 MPG!!


and ten characters after the post


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## mojo4

I really like the Chevy GMC trucks. Low cost of ownership and they have always been very reliable for me. 


I know GM took bailout money but if it makes you feel better just know it wasn't because of the trucks!! It was all the dog poo cars they make. If their cars were as reliable as the trucks they would be in great shape. 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Survival Forum mobile app


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## Cabowabo

My dream car is a Hyundai Genesis Coupe, in black. I don't know what it is about the car but it just looks sexy to me. I can afford it in cash. But I know the car isn't useful, its good on gas, it looks fun. As a prepper should I sacrifice getting the car I've always lusted after (after a test drive of course), and get a pick up. Or should I get a car I've always liked, but isn't useful for very much? I should mention my girlfriend drives an SUV. And then with the money I save on cheaper gas buy a regular cab pick up to do work when we get land at some point in the future? I know a twist to the thread lol...


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## Tirediron

If you are going to need to put on many miles I would recommend buying your dream car and getting an older truck in decent shape, new doesn't always mean good. Your Bug out truck won't do you much good if the tires are worn when the "event" happens, if it is possible to have an older truck it can be partially loaded for BU if you can keep it in a fairly secure place


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## LincTex

Tirediron said:


> It is possible to have an older truck it can be partially loaded for BU if you can keep it in a fairly secure place


Yep, leave Bug Out loaded truck in the garage!

Leave car outside.


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## Cabowabo

Well I'm 4 days out from being back in Texas, and buying a truck. Whatever I get I'll post a picture with it. Lookin forward to it . I might do a Bug out Trailer, instead of a BOV. Whatever I get, I'm going to put a reserve fuel tank on it, to extend my range, and not have to worry about Jerry cans...


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## LincTex

Cabowabo said:


> I might do a Bug out Trailer, instead of a BOV.


Do both!

Get an Expedition/Suburban with a trailer!!



Cabowabo said:


> I'm going to put a reserve fuel tank on it, to extend my range, and not have to worry about Jerry cans...


Lots of great "junkyard" tanks can be fitted to other vehicles. I used to do it all the time.


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## Cabowabo

When I was about to Leave Korea, my mom called me on magicjack and told me the dealership sold the Chevy Silverado out from under me. 
I ended up getting a 2014 Nissan Frontier extended cab, and I love it. Its just a great truck. I decided to get financing on it, but I have the money set aside to just pay it off if I decide I don't like making payments.  its pretty nice


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## Dadforfive

I have been dealing with the same problem for a farm truck, and think i finally come up with a solution. I checked Craigslist and found a 84 half ton 4x4 chevy with a manual 4 speed. Parts are so common, you can almost buy them at the grocery store. No electronics to speak of (starter, ignition module, coil and alternator are all it HAS to have to run) and dirt cheap. Yes, if the carb is wrong it drinks fuel, but that is where being a Mechanic comes in. Besides, in a SHTF situation, who is going to be breaking into Autozone for parts for that old of a truck? I am going to get it next week. Just because i am curious, and have another engine sitting in the shed, I am thinking of rejetting the carb and running a few gallons of moonshine thru it, just to see if the stock pistons will hold up to the heat of what boils down to PGA running thru the intake. This is my answer for me, I hope you good luck with finding your answer for you.

OH, an old ford straight 6 manual trans works well to for the same reasons.


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## Geek999

mojo4 said:


> I really like the Chevy GMC trucks. Low cost of ownership and they have always been very reliable for me.
> 
> I know GM took bailout money but if it makes you feel better just know it wasn't because of the trucks!! It was all the dog poo cars they make. If their cars were as reliable as the trucks they would be in great shape.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Survival Forum mobile app


Just to be clear, GM went bankrupt. The company today is a different company that bought assets from the bankrupt company.


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## LincTex

Dadforfive said:


> Yes, if the carb is wrong it drinks fuel, but that is where being a Mechanic comes in.


Any appropriately-sized carburetor can be adjusted to make it run properly. Even the "emissions era" Quadrajets can work like magic when set up *properly*.



Dadforfive said:


> Besides, in a SHTF situation, who is going to be breaking into Autozone for parts for that old of a truck?


You would be surprised.



Dadforfive said:


> running a few gallons of moonshine thru it, just to see if the stock pistons will hold up


The pistons will be the least of your worries.


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## Cabowabo

If I were to put a Reserve fuel tank on my truck, say in a tool box, would it void any warranties that are on the truck?


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## LincTex

Cabowabo said:


> If I were to put a Reserve fuel tank on my truck, say in a tool box, would it void any warranties that are on the truck?


As long as the fuel enters the truck ONLY through the filler neck opening (where the gas cap goes) - then no.

If you start cutting, tapping or splicing into anything - then you do run the risk of voiding the warranty.


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## Cabowabo

I have just one more question concerning my truck.
I'm debating between a Tool Box, or a Soft Bed Cover. Its a toss up on which one I'd like to go with.
With a Soft Cover I can put my guns in my truck, go to the range then stop by walmart on the way home without getting worried. However I would have to use a bag to put gear in as far as an Axe, jumper cables etc. With a Tool Box I would have a place preset for the tools I need to carry with my truck but I would have to stop by my apartment after the range or before the range if I needed to stop and pick something up. Also in theory when I go down to Dallas to see my girlfriend with a bed cover I could put a rifle and some mags in a hard case under the soft cover. 

Ideas?
Thanks


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## readytogo

Why not invest on a Fuel Tank Toolbox Combo,you get both for the price of one,especially if you do lots of driving.
http://www.amazon.com/RDS-Fuel-Tank...09061&sr=8-1&keywords=fuel+tank+toolbox+combo


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## Tirediron

I would be inclined to see If I could find a bed cover that would work behind the toolbox/tank combo


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## Cabowabo

What would adding a reserve tank to the truck affect in the terms of gas mileage? If I went that route I would dump it into the tank once a month. But I'm concerned about gas mileage. I'm also considering doing Jerry Cans tied down to the back of the truck or to the side of the bed of the truck and changing the gas on them out once a month.


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## Dakine

Cabowabo said:


> What would adding a reserve tank to the truck affect in the terms of gas mileage? If I went that route I would dump it into the tank once a month. But I'm concerned about gas mileage. I'm also considering doing Jerry Cans tied down to the back of the truck or to the side of the bed of the truck and changing the gas on them out once a month.


basic rule of thumb is that gas weighs 6 lbs per gallon and water weighs 8 lbs per gallon.

So, are you opposed to carrying another passenger? because lets say they only way 150 lbs, then you're carrying 19 gallons of water or 25 gallon of fuel.

my suspicion is that on a day to day basis the change in mileage is going to be neglgible and you will never miss it.

I'd refrain from hauling and storing gas in cans on the rig itself, at least personally, I'm less than a gallon away from home when at work so even if the light is on, fill me up!! I dont care I can still get home and I have a lot of gas here.

Anyway... I'd say keep your gas tank over 3/4 ALL THE TIME!!!! and everything else is just sideshow, it wont change much on your mileage!


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## LincTex

Cabowabo said:


> If I went that route I would dump it into the tank once a month.


You can if you want to, but it isn't really necessary to do it that often.

I am a firm believer in "auxiliary" fuel on a vehicle that doesn't involve "easily theftable" cans.


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## Spiritwomyn

Looking for a truck as well to pull our small travel trailer home. Only no funds just car to trade. We have to move and without truck trapped where we are. Need v8 automatic transmisson, gas, good tires, good engine. Prefer roll down windows. We already live in survival mode.


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