# secondary BOV



## k10macosta (Nov 6, 2012)

What happens if something happens to your main rig that makes it underivable? Anyone have any back ups? Mine isn't that great but its better than nothing its the danger ranger 3.0L 5 speed 180,000 miles under her belt. Gets mid 20s mpg.


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## mojo4 (Feb 19, 2012)

My main BOV is our Yukon xl. It has the 6.0 liter engine and with a full tank I can get close to 500 miles. My secong is a Chevy silverado 2500 also with the 6.0 engine. At least with 2 rigs with the same engine I only have to stock 1 set of parts and can scavenge fron the 2 to keep 1 running if SHTF.


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## forluvofsmoke (Jan 27, 2012)

My main BOV is a 2500 Suburban, 6.0, 4x4, tow pkg, has 209K with 125k on a upgraded engine (aluminum heads and 345 HP). Gets 16+ hwy, 12-13 in town...my daily driver. Alternate is a 1500 Suburban, 5.3 with some performance modifications (KN cold air filter, free-flow enlarged exhaust, chipped ECM), 4x4, tow pkg, auto-ride rear air suspension, gets about 15 in town and up to 19 hwy...wife's daily driver. Both have a full set of new tires, though mine are a bit more aggressive......and are noisier, so not the best choice for long road-trips...they'll get me there, along with tire chains, tow chains, ropes/straps, winch, etc.

Being both are driven regularly, it's easier to find the maintenance issues and stay on top things before something turns into a serious problem.


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## cowboyhermit (Nov 10, 2012)

I love rangers, tons of big trucks on our farm but I love these little guys  Have often seen little 4x4s go places where the big ones couldn't. 
Now if only I could find one with a diesel and less than 100 000kms.


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## Meerkat (May 31, 2011)

Ours is the only vehicle we have left,its a 95 350 ford van.Good milage too for such a big van.


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## GrinnanBarrett (Aug 31, 2012)

With gasoline prices rising every day look for big vehicle prices to drop like a rock. A 350 or 2500 van or truck will come down quickly as they sit on used car lots. My truck dropped in value by three thousand dollars in two months. I am not selling just watching the market. 

I am looking at a used Church van that has some miles on it. GB


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## Boomy (Mar 17, 2012)

My main in an '08 Jeep JK









Secondary would be '96 Tahoe (350 w/4wd)









Followed by atv










Mountain bikes........


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## k10macosta (Nov 6, 2012)

cowboyhermit said:


> I love rangers, tons of big trucks on our farm but I love these little guys  Have often seen little 4x4s go places where the big ones couldn't.
> Now if only I could find one with a diesel and less than 100 000kms.


my dad had a 2wd ranger with the "performance" 1.8l i4 engine and it was a 5 speed. when it hit 320,000 miles he gave it to his buddy to drive to work cause he had no car he put another 20,000 miles then sold it for $1,200. they are great trucks. my current one hardly has any rust and what rust there is, is cosmetic, and look how salt covered it is haha


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## k10macosta (Nov 6, 2012)

Boomy said:


> My main in an '08 Jeep JK
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That XJ is really nice, that would be my primary if I had it. in my opinion the XJ is the best post-Chrysler take over jeep. nothing can beat that 4.0l ho, its nearly bullet proof.


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## seanallen (Nov 13, 2012)

Speaking of BOV... Need some input. Friend of mine has this mid-80's Ford based RV. Built by Holiday Rambler. 30' long. 460 ci engine. Everything works except for the gennie. Ive ridden in it and its ok. Nothing special. My question: how many of you think its worth the $800.00 hes asking for it? Im gonna buy it this weekend after i replace a gummy fuel filter and inspect the tires.


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## forluvofsmoke (Jan 27, 2012)

seanallen said:


> Speaking of BOV... Need some input. Friend of mine has this mid-80's Ford based RV. Built by Holiday Rambler. 30' long. 460 ci engine. Everything works except for the gennie. Ive ridden in it and its ok. Nothing special. My question: how many of you think its worth the $800.00 hes asking for it? Im gonna buy it this weekend after i replace a gummy fuel filter and inspect the tires.


Be sure the fresh water tank is an actual food-grade poly tank with a pulse-type pump, not the older metal pressure tanks like I found in a early 70's model RV...needed upgrading. An 80-something should be up to speed on that, though.

30' mid-80's for $800.00 is not too bad, especially as you described it. Do look for water stains on the interior ceiling and upper walls (especially in the upper/overhead cabinets where they may go unnoticed), which indicates obvious water entry from the roof-joints (if a sectioned roof) or upper wall sections/joints with the roof. You may need to remove wall/ceiling panels and replace after repairing/sealing the leaks. Most modern RVs have a laminated insulated wall panel which has the insulation layer and exterior shell glued together, so if this is the case, insulation replacement may not be an option if it got wet.

Tires will weather more than they will wear on RVs, typically, so replacing them if they're not pretty fresh will be in order, and if they were not maintained properly (air pressure checks) this will be more prevalent...else a sidewall failure could result. RV tires are not the best grade (they're rated for the weight and heat of highway driving, but traction is a huge trade-off with them)...depending on the size, you may find a better tire for traction for a few extra bucks, otherwise the RV grade is a basic highway tire.

You'll want to go through the electrical system pretty closely to look for corroded terminals in the lamp assemblies (inside and out), fuse-block, as well as brittle wiring insulation. Then, go through it for a full preventive maintenance service...fluid checks, oil/filter change, brake and exhaust inspection, etc. The generator may be in need of overhaul or just a thorough maintenance, so check it out before you ditch it, as replacement RV gen-sets aren't cheap.

Check the battery isolator (charges the RV deep cycle battery when engine is running) and separates the cranking battery from the RV battery when the engine is off). If it's bad, replace, or go to a manually switched constant-duty rating 100-amp+ relay to do the job...about 25-30 bucks for the relay at auto parts stores while isolators can be over a hundred if you don't have a good source.

Nice find!


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## seanallen (Nov 13, 2012)

Thanks, Smoke! This rv seems to be ok on most aspects. Has a roof type ive never seen before. One solid sheet all the way. No fasteners in sight. The old 110vac AC seems to work ok. Im thinking im gonna eventually gut this sucker and reconfigure it MY way. It has a capacity to sleep 7-8 ppl rt now. Im gonna cut that back to 4-5 and expand that dinky little shower/toilet combo.


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## forluvofsmoke (Jan 27, 2012)

seanallen said:


> Thanks, Smoke! This rv seems to be ok on most aspects. Has a roof type ive never seen before. One solid sheet all the way. No fasteners in sight. The old 110vac AC seems to work ok. Im thinking im gonna eventually gut this sucker and reconfigure it MY way. It has a capacity to sleep 7-8 ppl rt now. Im gonna cut that back to 4-5 and expand that dinky little shower/toilet combo.


You're welcome. Hey, almost forgot about this, but you may need to shop around to find an insurance carrier for a rig that old, being it's well over 30 years...ran into that issue about 10 years ago myself. Some insurance companies won't cover an RV that old, not even for liability only.


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## ajsmith (Feb 1, 2010)

My primary BOV is my daily driver, a '94 Jeep Wrangler. The secondary BOV would be my '95 F-350 crew cab long bed. If given enough time I'd load the F-350 with supplies and possibly the pick-up box trailer that I'm trying to finish. Given more time and if need be I'd hook up to my '07 camp trailer, it's a 31 footer. If the situation calls for it we could take my wife's car, a '03 Grand Am. At some point I will be getting either a mid 90's XJ Jeep or a 80's or earlier FSJ Jeep Wagon.


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